Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Pontiac Grand Prix Traction Control/STS/ABS

124

Comments

  • lm04lm04 Member Posts: 2
    I have had the issue for months now. I have brought my car the the dealership where they could not diagnose the problem but offer a repair suggestion of $1000 plus to fix so I brought to another repair shop that finally got a reading off my car and said it was my sensor so I replaced both sensors but the problem still exists. I am amazed to see so many people have the same issue as I do. The 8 of VIN number is 41264723 and my car has $71K miles on it. I woudlliek to know if htere are any recalls on my car.

    Thank you
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning,
    At this time, you don't have any open recalls on your Grand Prix. Also, just for your own information, you do still have an Emissions Select Component Warranty that is good until 12/15/2012 or 80,142 MI, whichever comes first.

    I'm sorry to hear that the replacement of the sensors did not remedy the issue you're having with the traction control. When were you in at your dealership? We'd be happy to give them a call and follow up with them about your visit. Please send us an email with more information (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, a link to this post as my coworker Christina who answers incoming emails will need the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • chrissy78chrissy78 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my 2004 grand am, I have spent over 800.00 on the brake system and i am still having the same problem, when my light doesn't come on, my brake peddle shakes, then goes all the way to the ground, then i hear a loud noise. But when the abs light comes on, i dont have a problem with the car.. Does anyone have any idea whats going on? I have taken the car to 3 different dealers
  • shartley1231shartley1231 Member Posts: 1
    :cry: hi sorry to be asking this, but there seems to be a problem with my car.. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT and when it shifts down into overdrive, it drives fine, but when I give it just the slightest bit of gas it acts like it is running out of gas, but if i give it more gas to kick it out of overdrive it runs like a dream what could this be.. also my stereo has quit working, along with my ON*star thru the car itself, I can bypass the stereo speakers in the car and the radio works, but the onstar dont, any help would be greatly appriciated(spelling)
    :cry::cry::cry::cry:
  • tav19tav19 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the harnesses for the speed sensors in both front wheel assemblies. This is a common fix and most garages will fix everything else, I.e. hubs, shafts, etc. before replacing these harnesses. All my ABS/traction contro/stability system issues disappeared as soon as the harnesses were replaced. Found the fix after much searching on the internet
  • davidt11davidt11 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced the electronic brake control module on my 2004 grand prix GT with on from a 1999 grand prix se. Will that work or will I have to get a new one please let me know, thanks.
  • maddi24maddi24 Member Posts: 1
    My women has a 2000 grand prix, 3800 v6 and the LR (left rear) wss (wheel speed sensor) was not reading. i have replaced it and everything seemed to go well, but now the abs light doesnt go off. i have cleared the codes with my scanner and the low track light comes off then turns back off again. any ideas whats going on. ????
  • liteweightliteweight Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Grand Prix GTP with the aftermentioned ABS light & TCS lights on. I searched for hours looking for a proper way of diagnosing this issue. Came upon this site, went though 17 pages, & no one has the proper way of diagnosing. Even the GM reps won't help you. They all say, send me your vin etc, etc. Even the dealers are hit & miss with the repair. People just don't know how to diagnose any more. If the scanner doesn't tell them exactly the problem, they don't have a clue. I gave up looking on the internet for the answer & decided to look for myself
    I am old school. It does not have to be difficult. It's nothing more than nuts, bolts & wires. It's not that hard. But you do need a digital multi meter to diagnose it.
    Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
    Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
    With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
    #2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
    #4 & #5 Right front wheel
    #20 & #21 Left Front wheel
    #22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
    Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for.
    If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself. I'm sure theres a way of diagnosing this also WITHOUT a scanner ACCURATELY, but I didn't have to go that far because I found the issue in the left front wiring harness under the rad. A wire had broken. Repaired it, lights are out.
    If you have any questions, I'll be happy to try & help you out, so you won't get it royally from your friendly local GM dealer or corner garage that BOTH don't know how to diagnose something.
  • dlbuehlerdlbuehler Member Posts: 2
    Also make sure your post connection at the ABS control module is clean and no corrosion. I ran all the continuity tests and everything checked out. Was about ready to have the control module replaced when I noticed some corrosion in the bottom of the connection box on the ABS unit. Went to O'reilly's and for $7.95 bought a can of electrical connector cleaner. Scrapped lightly with a small screw driver and spraying down to remove the corrosion, let it all dry and then used dielectric grease on the pins. Put back together and so far so good. Thanks 'liteweight' for the trouble shooting info on the wires coming out of the ABS box or I would not have found this.
  • schatzee48schatzee48 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my Grand Prix where the hub was replaced to fix the ABS/TCS warning light issue and both ABS and TCS engaging. The fix cost $760. My car is a 2007 Grand Prix with 75,000 miles on it. I did write GM about it in regards to compensation and they offered $175 in store credits. I've owned a 2006 Buick Ranier which was an absolute lemon. I also own 2011 Traverse (under warranty) that's having the same fuel guage problems that the Buick had. I've owned 15 GM vehicles over the course of 33 years and the Traverse and Grand Prix will be the last GMs I ever own.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    schatzee48,
    Thank you for your support for GM over the last few decades - it is certainly appreciated. I see that you mentioned a current vehicle concern (the fuel gauge on your Traverse) and wanted to check in to see how the repair progress was going. Has your dealership been able to resolve it or are they currently working on this for you?
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • fkesonfkeson Member Posts: 1
    Honestly, I don't have time to read all of this thread. Here is my issue:
    Just purchased this car with 95,200 miles on it. Rubbing noise coming from brake area, ABS wants to kick in when going at slow speeds and in the midst of making a turn, the Check ABS light is coming on and the car seems to be stalling.. It will crank fine but then the next time it wont and you can smell gas, like it is getting to much fuel... remember when the older cars would get flooded out? That smell.. I can't have my 17 year old driving a car that is potentially dangerous. WHAT IS THE PROB? Warranty is most likely not an option for us so repairs need to be accurately diagnosed and cost effective! Lastly, we have checked the wheel bearings and they seem fine.
    Thanks, Fairlyn :confuse: :mad:
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    Well I have the same problem as most of you with the ABS and Traction Control lights coming on.
    I was able to contact Christina at GM, who seems like a very helpful person, but unfortunately she could only offer me a contact for customer service here in Canada. I contacted them and they were absolutely no help at all. I did put a meter on the pins on the connector that connects to the EBC and I got very similar readings. So my next step is to take the readings at the wheel sensors.
    It's been too hot here lately so I will wait for a cooler day to jack the car up and remove the wheels to check the readings at the wheel sensors. don't really know what else to do.
    I have a friend with a scanner and of course no codes show up.
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    The wire harness that the wheel speed sensor plugs into have a very high failure rate. I changed mine out a few weeks ago & solved my same issue. Harness was had from NAPA auto parts for around $35. I also seen the same part on Amazon. You need a scanner that can do "ABS" codes thats why you are not coming up with any code.
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    was that NAPA in the US or Canada? where did you splice the new cable in.

    Thanks for the help.
  • towertower Member Posts: 5
    really?
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Hello lightweight, i really appreciate your detailed explanation on how to check where the problem is. I managed to put a meter across the points as you described above but only on the connector for the module itself. All the readings were very close to each other so I'm thinking that even if there was a bad sensor it would have showed up on the meter? My problem is very intermittent so I'm not sure it would show up because the lights never stay on all the time. When they do come on once I shut the car off and re start it the lights are gone. This is why I really think it's a bad wire in the harness somewhere. I really have reservations taking it to a Dealer or even a Garage as they will just start changing parts and this could become very costly.
    Did you end up replacing the harness or did you just repair where you found the break in the wire? I'm thinking I will try and replace the left side harness as this seems to be the side that is causing the problem for most people. Just wondering what is involved in re routing the new harness? Looks like it could be quite a job? And where would I splice in the new harness? Probably close to the module just before the connector? If this don't work the only other option I see that makes sense to me is to pull the fuse for the ABS and run the car without ABS. Not sure if that will work either but I'm hoping someone here has tried?

    Thanks For The Help

    Al
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    US Napa. Mine was the passenger side. Keep removing the cable & it will go into a large loom right behind the radiator. With your head on the ground looking up into the engine bay it is right in front of you. Leave some wire & cut it off there. The new cable comes with butt connectors but I chose to solder & heat shrink the connection.
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    Replace the harness. not involved at all, 10 minute job. Follow old harness to end & cut off there leaving some to attach new harness. Very easy fix. Good luck
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks Eddie, looks like Napa here in Canada only have the one for the passenger side. I wonder if this will work on the drivers side maybe just different color wires? Another question, when I follow the old harness to the end will it not take me up to the control module? Or does it actually stop at the rad. and continue from there in another harness?

    Thanks Again
  • liteweightliteweight Member Posts: 4
    edited July 2012
    Hi Al
    Correct diagnosing has become a lost art in most stealerships, & garages today. The mechanics rely all too often on just replacing parts till they find the problem through trial & error (if they ever do). This is how they are trained today. The end result is the customer lands up flipping the bills on the mechanics quessing game for parts & labor replacing parts that don't require replacing.
    The customer relations hotline at corporate levels are a freakin joke. Their job is to nothing more than relay phone numbers to their internal network of dealers.
    Good to see you've taken the incentive into doing it yourself. The meter readings your getting are telling you there is contact in each circuit WHILE your testing, but remember all you need is a break in a wire that is making contact through a single strand of wire. What you'll need to do is flex the wires in the most common fail points, you'll see where they bend, while having an audible meter attached to that circuit. The most common areas of faults are in the front.
    I have access to a wiring diagram for these cars if your interested. Just gotta fiqure a way of sending it to you since I can't find a way of attaching a file here.
    Let me know

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Thanks Liteweight, I'll let you know if I need the diagram. I'm in the mist of tracking down the harness now but looks like no stock up here at Napa so I'll have to order it. I had a quick look from underneath as Eddie mentioned but it looks like I need to remove the spash pan to see anything. I can see where all the harnesses meet from the top of the engin though. It's just in front of the rad., the engin side of the rad., it looks like I could splice it there but not sure there is enough room to do it properly?
  • brenfelb3brenfelb3 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that I just bought 4 months ago.... it's had nothing but problems since! Now the ABS/TCS light that was just coming off and on for a month or so, is on all the time now. It feels like the wheels are sticking when I turn. With so many people have the same issue (by the looks at this forum), why hasn't GM issued a recall? There's obviously a problem here!

    Thanks.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning brenfelb3,

    I am unable to speak to the details of how product quality decisions (like recalls) are made. If you would like for us to look into the ABS/TCS concern you're currently having with your vehicle, please send us more information at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealership).

    Kind regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • liteweightliteweight Member Posts: 4
    brenfelb3
    Save yourself the aggrivation & money you will be pouring out of your pocket to a GM dealership & read post #163 & 176. I have yet to this date heard ANY POSITIVE responses from ANYONE who went the gm customer service route. Most are greeted with a huge bill & a car that is not repaired

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    I recieved the 2 cables last night. I installed the one on the passanger side this morning and decided to test the car with just one side done. After driving around a bit today everything seems OK. No warning lights.
    Just keeping my fingers crossed that it's all good now, pretty sure it is as the lights were coming on pretty steady the last few days.
    Thanks Liteweight and Eddie, I hopefully managed to repair this GM Defect for less than it would have cost me for a scan at the dealer.

    One Note for anyone else that is doing this, If you order the harnesses from Dorman the clips are larger than the OE so they wont fit. I had to salvage the clips from the old cable.

    Thanks Again guys
    Al
  • liteweightliteweight Member Posts: 4
    Glad it worked out for you Al. How did you seal your splice??? You want to keep moisture out of it, specially if subject to salt conditions.

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    I used the connectors that Dorman sent with the cables.
    Crimped both ends and then heat shrink to seal. Looks questionable but I think it should be OK. If I have problems with that side again I will solder and heat shrink both wires.
  • lm04lm04 Member Posts: 2
    Hello:

    I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix and have the same issues but I have no experience in auto repair and the last mechanic I went to replaced my Hub assembly as he said that is what the computer codes were saying they thought it was a bad sensor. This was not correct and I continue to have the issue. My question is do you think an inexperienced person can fix?
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    Hmm, to be honest I think only you can answer that question. But why not jack up the car, remove the passenger side wheel and have a look to see if it's something you want to tackel yourself.
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    I've got a spare Dorman cable if anyone needs one. I paid $65.00 with taxes from Napa Canada. I'll let you have it for $50.00. I'm in Ontario.

    Al
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    Glad it worked out for you Al, u take care now
  • algp2005algp2005 Member Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Thanks again Eddie. If it wasn't for the help I received on this board I would have had to take it to the dealer and probably had to replace 2 front wheel bearings and the Electronic Brake Module. This would have set me back between $800. and $1200. like many other people. I just don't understand why GM don't own up to this as it seems to be a very common problem with these model years. And I've even read somewhere that they redesigned the cable in 2007 or 2008. So, why would they redesign if there wasn't a problem? And I would think it's a huge safety issue as the brakes pulsate when the warning lights come on that could scare allot of nervous drivers.
    After speaking with GM customer service Canada and even stopping by the dealer explaining to them what I found on the net, they blow you off and tell you they can't go by what is said on the net and need to put it on the scope to check for codes. Even though I'm 100% sure I'm not the only one that has complained or had this problem they insist on doing things by the book and that would have meant replacing parts until they found the problem. I must say that this really rubs me the wrong way.
    I've been a loyal GM customer for the past 30 some odd years purchasing 13 new cars from them for me and my wife. This last one has been the longest I've kept a car as I retired 5 years ago and use to replace cars every 2 years. I'll be looking for a new car in the next little while and I don't think I will even go to a GM showroom. It will be my turn to blow them off. I might just follow that commercial you hear all the time. Have You Driven A Ford Lately?
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    I don't blame you. I've had terrible experiences with them trying to get them to stand behind their product.
  • fisherman1984fisherman1984 Member Posts: 1
    So I took my 04 GP through the carwash this morning on my way to work... About a mile down the road, my abs and traction control light came on. I'm guessing I've got a bad wire. Did a quick google search on the issue and found this thread... hoping your info helps!
  • ecugirl81ecugirl81 Member Posts: 9
    Hi - I've had the issue with ABS/Traction control light for almost 2 years now. I ran the gammet of fixing almost everything with my AWESOME mechanic who pretty much did most of the work for free because when he can't fix something first time it becomes his obsession (wish you all had a mechanic like mine.) I never took it to the dealer dealer because we all know they SUCK!). final diagnosis was bad ABS computer control module (not the bearings, the ABS sensor in the wheel, wiring harness or anything like that) - it's a $1200 part, so my mechanic unplugged the ABS fuse that plugs into the computer - you can run without ABS - you still have regular brakes and (in TX) you don't have to have ABS brakes to pass inspection. Just know that when you disconnect the ABS brake fuse into the computer, every time you turn the car on you will get all the beeps, bells and whistles on the digital display telling you to check the system. Your ABS, traction control and brake light will remain lit up on the dash which is really just an annoyance, not a safety issue. WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GM PROJECT AGAIN BECAUSE OF GM'S ATTITUDE.! Going back to Honda, once this car (which is paid for and has been great except for this one issue) finally bites the dirt (its an '04 GP). Good luck to all! :lemon:
  • kloftkloft Member Posts: 1
    Did you find out what it was because me grand prix is doing the same thing
  • chocokiss97chocokiss97 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same issue with my traction control and ABS lights going off. After taking it to my mechanic several times (and after he finally stopped looking at me like I was crazy) he finally found out it was a bad ABS module. To go through the dealership for the part is crazy...does anyone know of any reputable online dealers?
  • terryq1terryq1 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on my daughter’s 2004 GTP. I read that the wheel sensors should have a resistance of 960 to 1040 ohms. I measured all four wheels and they were all about 1,100 to 1,120 ohms. I tried cleaning connectors, and even put four 1000 +/- 23 ohm resistors at the end of all four harnesses. I also cleaned the plug for the harness at the ABS ECM, and also the ABS power relay. None of this turned off the ABS warning message.

    I checked the voltage at the end of each harness connector to the wheel speed sensors with the ignition turned on. Three of them were at 4.8 volts, and the RF was varied between 2.1 and 3.6 volts. As I shook the harness next to the RF brake, that voltage at the connector would jump up and down. With the connector still disconnected from the wheel sensor, I probed the length harness with pins and a voltmeter. At the ABS ECM, the RF circuit was 4.8 volts like the other three wheel circuits. As I moved along the harness, it stayed at 4.8 volts until I got to within about a foot of the wheel sensor. Then it dropped off to the lower level I measured at the wheel connector.

    I eventually pulled the wires out of the harness guard, and cut open some of the shrink wrap around the wires. Even though the car had not been driven for 5 days, the wires were wet, and the inside of the shrink wrap was full of sand and salt. I think what had happened was that the dirt there eventually degraded the insulation on the wires and was allowing some current leakage that resulted in the voltage drop.

    I intended to rewire this part of the harness and replace the end connector. I couldn’t get a new connector at the auto parts stores, but three different stores and a Chevy dealer sold a relatively short section of the harness with a new connector. My conclusion is that this mode of failure must be common, or all of the auto parts stores and GM dealers would not be selling a replacement harness section.

    After wiring in the new section on the end of the RF wheel harness, the ABS warning light is no longer coming on.
  • terryq1terryq1 Member Posts: 2
    On further examination of the failed harness, I found a break in one of the wires inside of the insulation a few inches from the connector. This is an area where the wire would be twisted every time the steering wheel would be turned. The only reason I can understand for the wire to have any voltage at all is because the two broken ends must have been touching. The copper wire was also black and corroded.
  • hrtuckhrtuck Member Posts: 1
    hey guys, im going through the exact same thing with my 2004 pontiac grand prix. and i did my research and found a recall that described these issues. I contacted pontiac about this and they advised me to take the car to get a diagnois to make sure its a problem that relates to the recall and they will reimburse me the money it costed to get the dx and pay full cost for the problem. below im going to copy and paste all of the recall info. Hope this helps for all of us

    Recall ID # 51199 - SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC

    Hide Details



    Recall Date:

    JUN 23, 2004

    Model Affected:

    2004 Pontiac Grand Prix

    Summary:

    CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES WERE PRODUCED WITH LOWER THAN SPECIFIED TORQUE ON BOTH FRONT BRAKE CALIPER TO STEERING KNUCKLE ATTACHMENT BOLTS. WITH IMPROPER TORQUE, THE CLAMP LOAD AT THE JOINT MAY NOT BE ADEQUATE TO PREVENT MOVEMENT BETWEEN THE CALIPER BRACKET AND KNUCKLE.

    Consequences:

    DEPENDING ON WHETHER ONE OR BOTH BOLTS BACKS OUT OR FRACTURES, THE RESULT CAN BE LOCKING OF THE AFFECTED WHEEL DURING BRAKING AND AN ABRUPT STEERING INPUT IN THE DIRECTION OF THE LOCKED WHEEL, REDUCED BRAKING AND NOISE FROM THE AFFECTED WHEEL, OR SEVERING OF A BRAKE HOSE, INCREASED BRAKE PEDAL TRAVEL, AND REDUCED STEERING CONTROL. REDUCED BRAKING OR STEERING CONTROL COULD CAUSE A CRASH.

    Remedy:

    DEALERS ARE TO TIGHTEN BOTH BOLTS TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON JUNE 28, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT CHEVROLET 1-800-630-2438 OR PONTIAC 1-800-620-7668.

    Potential Units Affected:

    47991

    Notes:

    GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

    Read more: http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2004/pontiac/grand_prix/recalls/#ixzz2AAflaNRm
  • attilabokorattilabokor Member Posts: 4
    Hi I Have an 04 Grand Prix GT last 8 numbers of the VIN : 41367899. After a very cold night(i was at the mall and I parked the car outside) the Service the ABS and the Service the Traction messages appeared. After I shot down the car and restarted the messages disappeared. I had to do this multiple times during the last 2 winters. This only happening when it's cold(I'm in MI) and I do a sharp turn. Just this morning (it's cold again) the messages will not go away even if I restarted the car multiple times Please give me an idea what I can do, thanks
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    1 of two things is going on. You either have a bad speed sensor which is built into the hub bearing assembly going out or you have a bad speed sensor cable. First thing first get the car scanned & find out which wheel it is. Once you know which wheel second get under there with the wheel removed & on a jack stand start wiggling the harness from where it plugs into the hub bearing as far as you can follow it. Turn the wheel back & forth & try to duplicate the light coming on while finding the cause. If you find the harness to be good I would change out the hub bearing assembly like $150 at Autozone & pretty simple to do. Good luck!
  • attilabokorattilabokor Member Posts: 4
    Thanks Eddie, I started up again this morning after it was sitting for an hour, now the Service Traction/Stability/ABS System light are not coming on.... what you think?

    Thanks
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    I think if u want to get rid of this gremlin get it scanned & start checking the speed sensor harness from the suspect wheel.
  • attilabokorattilabokor Member Posts: 4
    I scanned it when it showed the errors, no error codes...
  • eddie71eddie71 Member Posts: 10
    U have to have a scanner capable of pulling ABS specific codes. Then go under the ABS section to retrieve the "ABS" code. It will show no codes if you are in the PCM- power train section.
  • seabeethomseabeethom Member Posts: 1
    To the ABS light needing a module. Go to CHEAP ABS. com they repair the module for 99.00 and guaranteed. I just had the same problem and my mechanic said it was 1200 to replace it. I looked on the internet for information and found their web-site. I got the module from my mechanic and sent it to them and they repaired it and it worked great. I have not had another problems with that.
  • attilabokorattilabokor Member Posts: 4
    I already got it fixed for $200, they replaced the whole module ... no more lights, the copper in the cable was visible and that was causing the intermittent lights... one thing is sure... I'm not gonna buy GM anymore...
  • santa308santa308 Member Posts: 1
    This doesn't happen all the time but when I go over a bump, or when it rains, or the wheels go over oil, and I begin to brake, the wheels lock, I get vibration from braking, and the car is still moving. I have to shift to low gear to come to a complete stop. The only indication that appears is the traction control engaging. Is there any one out there that has or come across this problem and if so, how did you fix it. Please advise.
Sign In or Register to comment.