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Comments
What changes have you noticed? I'm curious to see if the idle RPM's have been raised in the new program.
"All these problems" are spun way out of context.. Visit other chat rooms around the net. There are thousands upon thousands of satisified Tribut/Escape owners out here.. Like myself..
I have 10,000 trouble free, reliable miles on my Escape and am enjoying the vehicle..
Base your decision on your needs. I needed/wanted a V6 for the extra towing/hauling power. Its also nice to be able to pass/merge and dart quickly when needed in traffic.. Good luck
I own a 2001 Tribute with about 10,000 miles on it. Until last week I was delighted wth my car.
Last week it stalled.
I was going down hill at about 35 to 40 at the time. I could not stop. I hit my brakes as hard as I could. The car slowed a little.
I could not stop the car, pull it over, or even slow it down much until I reached the bottom of the hill.
I was lucky there was no traffic at the time.
I was lucky the road was straight.
If there had been anything in front of me I would have hit it.
If the road had curved I would have gone off the road and possibly over a cliff. (I live in Colorado...so going over a cliff is not that unlikely)
Don't tell me that stalling is a minor issue.
I fought the car with all the strenght I had and I could not controll it.
I feel I can no longer trust my Tribute.
Were you able to find out what the cause of the problem was?
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I had a stalling problem and had received some
helpful information. I do like my Tribute but if
Ford is not going to back up their product and leave you in Limbo, then there is a problem.
IF your Ford/Mazda is running great then you're
lucky but if you have a problem with it join the
stalling club. It is no fun being there!!!!!!!
I was thrilled.
The dealer had found the problem and fixed it.
While I was returning my rental car I ran into a woman returning hers.
She was the proud owner of a 2002 Tribute.
It had stalled.
What are the odds that two Tribute owners with the same rare stalling problem would be returning their rentals to the same place at the same time?
(What is Mazda's definition of the word rare?)
She and I had a long talk.
The dealer told her when she bought her Tribute that the 2001 models had a stalling problem. He said it was fixed in the 2002 models.
He was wrong.
The same people just told me my 2001 Tribute was fixed and now safe to drive.
Did they 'fix' my 2001 the same way they 'fixed' her 2002?
Do they realty know if this or any other fix they come up with will work.....or are they just trying out their latest idea and then waiting to see what happens?
I feel a little like a lab rat
No stalls thus far although I'm well aware that it is a common complaint. I live in flatland but for the times I've gone downhill (bridge, for example), I've never experienced stalling.
After reading the TSB for the Escape I became concerned that my Tribute might need its PCM replaced or reprogramed.
I called my dealer back and was told that the Ford TSB did not apply to Mazdas and that my vin date was not one that required the reprogramed PCM.
I bought my Tribute in July 2001.
Does anyone have a detailed copy of Mazda's offical fix or TSB for this problem?
I hope the dealer is correct and my Mazda is now safe to drive...but I am concerned that they don't want to do any more work on my car until after I have had it for a full year. (our lemon law deadline)
Please advise.
M-TIPS REPAIR INFORMATION
Category F FUEL AND EMISSION
Symptom(s): 000 All Symptom Codes
REPAIR INFORMATION: REFERENCE#: 3694 TYPE DESC:
BULLETIN
SVC BULLETIN#:1-014/02
SUBJECT: 3.0L INTERMITTENT ENGINE QUIT OR IDLE DIP
MODEL YEAR AFFECTED IN VIN RANGE MODEL SPECS
TRIBUTE '01-'02 3.0L ONLY
NAVAJO/
TRIBUTE '01-'02
TRIBUTE '01-'02
TRIBUTE '01-'02
Some vehicles equipped with a 3.0L Duratec engine may exhibit an intermittent engine quite condition. This is usually a one time event during closed throttle deceleration with no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)and no Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL). The engine will restart immediately.
When normal diagnostics cannot pinpoint the root cause, refer to the following Driveability Checklist for details.
1. Verify customer concern.
2. Inspection of Idle Air Control Valve
a) With the transmission in Park, the engine should idle at approximately 750 RPM, and the engine temperature should be at least 88 C (190F). All accessories and the engine cooling fan should be off.
b) Using WDS version B17.2 or later, verify that Idle Air Control (IAC) duty cycle is within specification (between 32-40%) with no purge flow), then proceed to Step 3.
c) If IAC duty cycle is out of specification, replace IAC with part number AJ03-20-660A. If IAC duty cycle is within specification after replacing with a new IAC, then proceed to Step 3 now.
d) If IAC duty cycle is still out of specification, replace throttle body with part number AJ03-13-640A.
e) Verify corrective action, then proceed to Step 3.
NOTE
ENGINE RPM WILL SLOWLY RAMP UP. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPROTANT TO CHECK THE IAC DUTY CYCLE WHEN THE RPM IS AT 750 RPM. EVEN 800 RPM IS TOO HIGH FOR CHECKING IAC DUTY CYCLE UNDER THESE CONDITIONS.
3. PCM Reflashing
a) Perform the following: IF the vehicle was built on or after 1/16/2002, then proceed to Step 4 now. If not, reprogram the PCM with WDS version B17.2 or later. Only use WDS version B17.2 or later during this reprogramming.
b) Some 2001 model year PCMs cannot be reprogrammed and must be replaced. Replacement is determiend by the MPC # located in the upper left corner of the barcode on the PCM. If the PCM is an MPC 160, then replace with part number AJ08-18-881F and reprogram with WDS version B17.2 or later. If the PCM is MPC 161, then just reprogram with WDS version B17.2 or later.
c) Verify the latest calibration was successfully reprogrammed. WDS should show latest calibration level 1U7A-12A650-AYB if PCM tear tag # SJC0, SJC1, or SJC2. For PCM tear tag HQP1 or HQP2, the latest calibration level is 2L8A-12A650-CD.
Note: For additional details on PCM reflashing, refer to the attached PCM Reflash Procedure Supplement. Proceed to Step 4.
4. Inspection of Evaporative Vapor Management Valve
a) With the transmission in Park, the engine should idle at approximately 750 RPM, and the engine temperature should be at least 88C (190 F). All accessories and the engine cooling fan should be off.
b) With WDS version B17.2 (U.S.) or later, determine if the Evaporative Vapor Management (EVAPVM) duty cycle stops increasing and remains at 95-100% while Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) holds at approximately 2.6 volts. Monitor these parameters using PIDs--EVAPVM # (in percent) and FTP (in vols). If this occurs, replace the EVAPVM valve with part number AJ03-18-741A.
c) If EVAPVM is funcitoning correctly, the duty cycle should increase to 84-100% with the FTP decreasing to approximately 2.2 volts and then recycle back to 0% duty cycle while FTP hold at approximately 2.6 volts. Do not replace the EVAPVM valve.
d) Verify corrective action, then proceed to Step 5.
5. Inspection of Evaporative System Vent Line
a) With the transmission in Park, the engine should idle at approximately 750 RPM, and the engine temperature should be at least 88C (190 F). All accessories and the engine cooling fan should be off.
b) With WDS version B17.2 (U.S.) or later, if EVAPVM drops to 0% from 60-80% (premature purge shutoff), check for an obstructed vent line. This condition may be accompanied by a sudden RPM drop while idling. The premature purge shutoff is caused by the tank not reaching a pre-specified vacuum state.
c) To clear the possible obstructed vent line, disconnect the vent line in the evaporative emissions system from the check valve side (check valve part number is AJ03-42-910). This connection is located just forward of the evaporative emissions canister assembly, underneath the vehicle in the area of the driver side rear seat.
d) Using shop air, blow the vent line from teh check valve side forward (towards the brake booster). In the past, spiders have been known to construct webs in the vent lines, so handle with caution. Possible obstructions in the vent line can prevent the evaporative emissions system from purging properly, and in some cases, stalling occurs.
e) Verify corrective action, then proceed to Step 6.
6. Inspection of EEC Relay
a) If the Electronic Engine Control (EEC) relay has stamped lettering, proceed to Step 7. If the EEC relay has white lettering printed on the top surface, replace with a new Hella service relay part number BTDA-67-740 that is all black and has stamped lettering on the top surface. Make sure the relay you are installing has stamped lettering.
b) Confirm EEC relay female terminal tightness on the Battery Junction Box side using tester P/N 49-L088-0A2=020 from the Mazda terminal repair kit. If loose, adjust terminals as needed. If okay, proceed to Step. 7.
Note: For location of the EEC relay, use 2001 Wiring Diagram Sections Z-52/Connector X1016 and Z-154/Battery
Wiring Diagram Sections Z-52/Connector X1016 and Z-154/Battery Junction Box.
7. Inspection of Key Ring Weight
a) Ask the customer if they have significant weight (approximately 9 oz or more ) hanging from teh key ring while the keys are in the ignition. If they do, and the engine quits while traveling over bumps, the key ring may move the ignition out of the Run position and stop the engine. When this occurs, all guages immediately shut off (fuel reads "E", tachometer goes to zero, speedometer goes to zero immediately).
b) It is recommended tha the customer attach fewer keys to the key ring that retains the vehicle ignition key.
c) Proceed to Step 8.
8. Road Test
a) Road test the vehcle long enough to experience 3 closed throttle decelerations from approximately 40 mph down to 10 mph. Ensure overdrive is ON. Use scan tool to examine engine RPM during test.
b) Ensure that there are no engine RPM dips below 680 RPM.
9. Obtain an Authorized PCM Modification Label through M-Net (part number 9999-95-AMDC-97) and list the date, dealer number, and summary of modifications performed. Select a prominent place adjacent to the Vehicle Emission COntrol Information Decal suitable for installing the Authorized Modifications Label. Clean the area, install the decal, and cover it with a clear plastic decal shield.
PARTS INFORMAITON
Mazda Part Number Ford P/N
AJ03-20-660A Valve Idle air YF1Z-9F715-AA
AJ03-13-640A Throttle Body YL8Z-9E926-DA
AJ03-18-741A Valve, solenoid YL8Z-9C915-AA
BTDA-67-740 Relay, Coolant FOAZ-14N089-A
fan
AJ08-18-881F Reman, control 1U7Z-12A650-AXA
unit, EGI
----------
Back to me. This document goes on for another 5 pages, but all of those remaining pages are devoted to the PCM Reflash Procedure Supplement. Please let me know if you feel you need this information and we can make some kind of arragement to get it to you, either by fax, or I could type the rest into a Word document and e-mail it to you. I wouldn't mind at all typing it up for the message board--I just don't know if that would be an okay thing to do because it's so long.
Furthermore, in my opinion, the dealer should not only have this information, he should be willing to share it with you. The head of the repair department at the dealership which serviced my Tribute for stalling (not the same place I bought it from) gave me a copy of the TSB and was also very honest in saying there was absolutely no guarantee that this would fix the problem. You might want to try to find a dealer that's more in touch than the first one you went to--though if you're in a rural area as I am, I know that's easier said than done! Good luck.
P.S. I didn't proof this, so apologies for any typos--but I was very careful when typing in part numbers, so they should be correct.
Interesting note about the key ring weight - that's been an issue with MB ML320 SUVs and other cars (different results though).
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I am in no way trying to push this problem off to the side. I want it fixed as much as you do. I've done a lot of research on this which is evidenced by my previous postings in this thread (posted the entire Ford stalling TSB and it's updated info).
Just remember that you still have total control of the vehicle if it stalls again. You just have to apply more force to the wheel and brakes. If you just try drifting it to a stop, that's when the real problems begin.
And to baggs32--believe me, I've driven vehicles with power nothing Remember the Ford Pinto? My first car. Volkswagon squareback? My second car. Yup, I'm real old, and I've owned some real winners... So I know well the difference between harder-to-steer and can't steer. But in any case, the postings I've found so troubling (not yours) are from people who are inexplicably hostile and berate people for complaining about this problem. Those are the ones that leave me drop-jawed and make me wonder what is going on. But I really have vowed not to write another word about whether or not stalling is a problem or a safety issue. So I'm going to be still now.
I'll post any other issues if they arise. Good or bad.
Also, are you married, with a family? I'm guessing NO, or else you would be a little worried that your wife and children could be injured. I happen to have a wife who is expecting our second child, and she doesn't have the brute strength you must have to keep the same turning angle after losing power.
So on behalf of everyone else out there who fears for the safety of their families, I'd like to tell you that these problems are not at all 'blown out of proportion'!
My opinion, (with some facts thrown in).
-First, the stalling problem is 'blown out of proportion' to some extent..
- Second, I don't deny that some vehicles (a very small number) do stall. Ford seems to have a handle on the problem and knows the fix. I don't think folks are making up the problems where the vehicle stalls. But what is often blown out of proportion is the consequences that some folks are thinking up that would result from a stall.
- Third, in the case of the stall, control is not lost. There is still steering and braking control, and there is the ability to restart while the vehicle is still moving if you desire. The speed the stalls occur also appear to be relatively low.. (around 40mph).
-Fourth: if you not confident with the vehicle your driving, you should relieve your self of that vehicle and get a different one with which you are confident in.
My wife has driven alot of beater vehicles (that were truly un-reliable), and I'm confident in her ability to 'not panic' and maintain control. I'm confident in the Escape and my driving ability as well.
I know this post may sound 'more harsh' than I really intend it to, but for you to imply that someone else cares less about their family than you do yours is absurd.. You (nor I) do not speak on behalf of everyone else who looks out for the safety of their families.
Here's another tip:
If a tire blows out on you, don't slam on the brakes. Coast, in a straight line, to a safe speed with your hazard lights on, and then pull over to the side of the road. This happened to me in a pickup truck while I was doing about 75mph downhill on a highway. It was the front left tire and I had three TRANE A/C units in the bed. Thank God I remembered what to do from driver's ed.
We really need to step up the requirements for a driver's license in this country. In Europe, we'd all still be walking.
take the "flat" roads until they can take the car in to have the stall problem fixed.
I can make it happen on a particular hill about half the time. Same conditions;
rolling down a steep hill, speed about 40mph, no accelerator, results in stall.
It is obviously a design problem from Ford, and not a catastrophic failure like
a tire blowout. I have learned my lesson about buying any new first run product
from Ford (Sept. 2001 Tribute ES-V6)
Cars, in general, are heavier for their size than in the "old days". There is a lot more stuff under the hood... AC, emissions equipment, power steering pumps. In addition, steering wheels used to be significantly larger in diameter, giving more leverage. And, probably most importantly, steering ratios are now much faster, again a change in leverage. Let's face it, it's MUCH harder to steer a modern vehicle with no PS than an old one that was designed that way.
Threehounds - I gotta laugh... a VW squareback with no PS. Come-on that's rear engined. I had a 3/4 ton Dodge van with manual steering that was a real bear until I put on 6.50x15 (skinny) Michelin truck tires that could run at high PSI.
Anyway, I wouldn't want to suddenly be faced with the loss of PS on a twisty downhill with no shoulders... potentially life threatening. On a straight, wide road... a piece of cake.
-james
No, I don't work for Ford. I have just owned 4
of their products over the years and none have given me the problems and unreliable service that some people like to lead other people to believe every Ford will. I work for a Japanese company...
I am thankful for the posts here as I did bring it to the dealer and they appeared to be honest about the situation. Stating that everything checked out on the TSB and they did nothing.
I guess now there is nothing to do but wait and see if this becomes a regular problem, but I am most dissapointed.
Has anyone had this only happen once and not return?
On June 25, I had enough. The dealer allowed me to trade in my car for another escape. June 26, new car stalled. June 28 car stalled again. Tonight I called Ford customer service again and stated that I wanted all the recommended steps to be completed in one feld swoop. I am currently waiting to see if that is going to be possible. I really like this car and its a shame that Ford has such a non-challant attitude towards what is potentially a serious problem.
The symptoms are exactly like everyone else has expressed here. Speed about 40, deceleration (mine occurs going down hill), RPMs rapidly drop, and then the engine light comes on and the car stalls.
I ask you, what are the odds of this happening to two vehicles back to back like this?
Has any one here had all the steps done from the TSB at their dealership? Is the problem corrected? I would really appreciate some feedback from anyone who has completed any/all steps and if the problem was rectified.
Thank you.
Again, I am not going to say that this is the end all fix all for stalling, but it has to be very close if it really is not. We've only stalled once, but I used to be able to get the tach to drop well below 500 rpm before they flashed the PCM this past week. Now I can't get it to drop below 600. The idle rpm is also higher when you are coasting (about 900-1000) and doesn't drop back down to the base 750 until you are just about at a complete stop. It's now a nice slow steady decline that stops at 750.
If I were you, I'd get it done and see what happens first. Especially if you really like the vehicle.
I received a call from Ford last week just prior to a my scheduled Dispute Board Hearing. Ford offered a replacement or a refund (partial). I chose the refund. I am just baffled while after reading this forum, anyone would accept another Escape.
On my way to work 2 weeks ago I noticed an Escape pulled over to the side with the hazards on. I pulled over ran back to the Escape. The woman proceeded to tell me the car had just died on her --- it only had 197 miles on it! I gave her this address and faxed her a copy of the TSB that was recently posted.
I'm finished, but I want to thank everyone who posted. With the TSB's I was armed with knowledge and able to get through the "stone walls" at the 3 dealership service departments I used. My personal experience with the 800 Ford number was terrible thus another reason not to accept the replacement and return to Ford for an Explorer.
Good luck to everyone who is watching the dash instead of the road!
OK...does any body have the answer to what the problem is ?
My SUV is at the dealer waiting to see what part they might change now ! I'll keep this message board updated on the problem.
If anybody has a solution please let me know.
Refund check is due to arrive from Ford in 30 days. I pick up my new car (NOT A FORD) tomorrow night.
I had the PCM reprogram from the June TSB done a couple of weeks ago. There are many noticable differences in engine and transmission performance. So far all have been for the better. The most notable is that the tach will not drop below 550 rpms at any time now.
my wife owns an 01 Tribute with 23,000 miles. In the past week the battery and cooling idiot lights are coming on and staying lit. Both the battery and cooling levels check out OK. Anyone experience a similiar problem? Any solutions?
Thanks
If it is a 2001 with only 23,000 miles, it is still under WARRANTY. Take it back to the dealer.
I have had 2 incidents where the idiot lights came on and stayed on. The dealership replace the sensors both times.
My recent problem has been a hissing air noise whenever I take my foot off the brake pedal. I took it into the dealership and they said that this is a normal sound for this braking system (even though it never made this noise the first year of ownership). They also said that they checked new models on the lot and they also make the same noise.
Does anyone else have this problems?
Thank you!
Cbuswell1 - Scape2 is correct about looking back several posts. This link should take you to a post with the TSB information.
I believe that they do. From what I understand, it only takes one or two instances of the same problem for a TSB to be issued. Most of them even start off by saying "Some YYYY model "insert vehicle name here" may experience.... They are basically a pre-WWW form of a bulletin board.
I only found this message board because someone else told me about it when she started looking to buy a new vehicle. Since the Mazda dealership told me they didn't know what I was talking about, I am very angry. There is no way that all of us are having the same problems and they don't know. I am even angrier that they charged me for the parts and labor for a design flaw. My mileage is high because I travel a lot, which is why I need a dependable vehicle...Mazda just lost a customer I'm afraid.
1. People who are unhappy ALWAYS complain (for good reason, sometimes) whereas very few who are happy tell everyone.
2. Ford/Mazda have sold hundreds of thousands of vehicles. By far the best selling vheicle in it's class. If it was as bad as this board implies the sales would not be there.
3. The huge majority of issues were on the first year vehicle only.
What fool buys a first year product of anything? My daddy taught me that lesson early in life!!
4. Some of the posters here don't even own an Escape/Tribute and are talking about third and fourth hand experience and theiories.
So...that said. Do your homework and buy the vehicle you like the best for you. If it's the Escape or Tribute go for it...Neither vehicle is a big service problem and the level of customer satisfaction with the Escape/Tribute at both our Ford stores and both Mazda stores is quite high. Higher than some "percieved" better products!!!
astorey,
You can have problems with any vehicle that you buy, so buy the one you like the best.
It occurs to me that were it not for those "fools" there would not be a second year product! :-)
tidester
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SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories