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Chevrolet Impala Climate Control/AC/Heater

2

Comments

  • blainebblaineb Member Posts: 2
  • blainebblaineb Member Posts: 2
    Thought I heard a vacuum leak noise (that kind of high pitched hissing sound) while driving my 2000 Impala, but when I opened the hood I could tell it was a grinding sound coming from one of the pulleys. It goes away when I turn on the AC. What's the cause and is there a (low $$$) fix?
    Thx.
    Blaine
  • lambo87lambo87 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks doitmyselfer...I have an 04 Imp. that is having the same problem I'll try the battery ..if that doesn't work .I'll use your guideline. Thanks again.
  • rbraserbrase Member Posts: 9
    I have a 04 Impala and the heater no longer works on the driver side.
  • sparkle247sparkle247 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I would like some help my 06 impala keeps saying tighten gas cap, so I bought another gas cap now they are saying it could be a leak something about a vacum/evap leak. My engine light is on and want go off even after replacing the gas cap. Also, when driving my heat works fine but when I stop or sit the heat becomes extremely cold air. Can somebody tell me whats going on????
  • cnwcnw Member Posts: 105
    I have had some experience with the "check engine light" as a result of a loose gas cap. The first time, it took in excess of 50 "engine start-shut-off" cycles before it reset. The second time--after the gas cap failed and was replaced--it was at the dealership for an oil change and they reset the light for me. As regards the heater nad cold air--I'm sorry, I have no experience and can't offer any advice or suggestions. Clark
  • brad38brad38 Member Posts: 4
    I bought my Impala new. I live in Florida, so don't use the heat all that much. The first winter I had it I used the heat a few times and noticed the heat would stop whenever I stopped the car. The air will continue to blow, but no heat. Once I go again, the heat works great. I kept forgetting about it until this morning when it was 40 something degrees. I turned the heat on and soon as I stopped at first redlight it reminded me of the problem again. I've read most of the forums and can't sem to find anyone addressing this issue. I do have the remote start if that has anything to do with it.

    Other than that, great car. I love it and no other problems. I have an 02 Impala also and it has the actuator problems described in this forum. Thanks for the info on that folks. I'll replace it soon.
  • cyouketcyouket Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Impala. The heater has a mind of it's own I guess. It only works if the car is in motion over a certian speed. When I stop at a red light or anywhere else after about 15 seconds it starts kicking out cold air. And in the mornings the engine temp may be where it is supposed to be but takes a little bit for any warm air to come out. What could be causing this? The Thermostat or something a little more major?
  • jsandra2000jsandra2000 Member Posts: 2
    Weird issue. I have 2006 LT 3.9L. Noticed using remote start after 2 cycles when I get in the car, the car is still cold inside even though engine is warm. As soon as you hit the gas it starts blowing hot air. Tried going out and starting with the key this morning. Same thing. I had it set to defrost blowing on high and does the same thing so it's not just a remote issue. Haven't tried setting it to heat instead of defrost, will try that next. Just had water pump and thermostat replaced (well they said the thermostat was part of the water pump kit, I'm not sure). Levels are all fine. Seems to do fine when idling at stop lights etc other than blower doesn't blow as hard as it does when you're accelerating. Any ideas?
  • maxman00maxman00 Member Posts: 1
    2005 Impala LS 3.8 liter. Dual climate control. Very low heat, mostly cool air at max temperature setting for either driver or passenger. Move either control to cold, get all cold air on that side. Move either control to hot, get slightly warmer air on that side. These actuators seem to work correctly and independent. Changing selection from defrost, vent, floor, or mix works like it should. Just get very low heat, mostly cool air.

    Coolant level is good. New thermostat. Heater hoses going into and out of heater core are hot and at same temperature.

    This morning, will all quiet and cold, I could hear each actuator motor as each control setting was selected. Hot/cold drivers side, hot/cold passenger side, and mode selection (defrost, vent, floor). The wind of the motors all sounded normal and alike and no clunky indicating a jam.

    Is there a 3rd common actuator?
    What is part number?
    What is it called?
    Where is it located?
    Is this a difficult do-it-yourself job? I am cheap and do most work myself, regardless of what it is.
    How much tear down of dash is required?

    Thanks in advance,

    Max :surprise:
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    For those of you having issues with '06+ Impalas where the heater blows cold at idle, and then hot while moving, there are a couple of things to look for.

    Last week the water pump on my '06 Impala failed. When it happened (and aside from coolant being spewed all over the engine), the heater would only blow hot air while the car was in motion. At stoplights, or while just idling, it was cold.

    1. Make sure your coolant (Dex-cool) level is where it should be. If coolant is low, the heater will not work as well.

    2. Make sure the radiator cap is an 18psi cap, as opposed to a 15psi cap. When my water pump first failed, I erroneously thought it was a faulty radiator cap. I bought a 15psi replacement and installed it. The next morning, the dealer replaced the water pump and left the 15psi cap on the radiator. Even after the repair, I was having the heater issue. I reinstalled the factory 18psi cap later that night, and heater function went back to normal. The system needs the extra pressure.

    3. If your coolant level is normal, and you have the 18psi radiator cap, the system most likely has an air bubble in it somewhere preventing coolant from making it all the way through the heater hoses. You can try turning the heat all the way up for several minutes while driving to see if you can eliminate minor air bubbles. That may force enough coolant through the system to "pop" the bubbles. If that doesn't work, you may need to have the system flushed and re-filled to get rid of the bubbles. This is actually a common issue with the '06+ Impalas.
  • kathleen17kathleen17 Member Posts: 1
    HELP! I'm having 2 issues with 01 Impala heat.

    Problem 1 -- Blower is working inconsistently, and in my cold location, this can be dangerous. Heat will work fine for weeks, then will stop working for no apparent reason. 2 WEEKS AGO, our local mechanic replaced the Resistor (blower motor) and I hoped that would solve the problem, but yesterday after driving for about 5 minutes, the blower quit again. I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, re-started the car and the blower came back on for about 5 seconds, then quit again. I drove for about 5 minutes, and the blower kicked back on and worked fine for the rest of the afternoon while I was out running errands. When this situation has happened in the past, I've tried all the different fan settings, tried to change from recirculate to fresh (nothing happens). Also, the back window blower quits working.

    Problem 2 -- when the heat does work, the interior never really warms up to the point of being comfortable. Even after driving 45 minutes on the expressways, the temperature gauge only registers right above the very lowest reading on the dash of 140. Coolant level is OK.

    Any help would be much appreciated!
  • Keith_JKeith_J Member Posts: 3
    Hello! My name is Keith and my parent's 04 has this problem. Their mechanic couldn't fix it but didn't charge them so I figured this will be a Christmas gift. And this made it VERY EASY...well, not physically for my 40 year old body...

    Being the geek engineer I am, I tested the failed unit and found it didn't work with 12 VDC. Upon opening the case with careful manipulation of the snap tabs, I saw what could be the problem, the buss bars from the connector to the motor are crimped onto the motor terminals. Carefully removing the motor, a brushed DC perm. magnet unit, it worked! I crimped the connections, then reassembled and reindexed the unit so it will reassemble. It worked with the reindexing...must be a potentiometer on the draft door and some kind of H-bridge to control direction...yeah, that is the engineer speaking.

    I found the tool for the job was my flexy-extending screwdriver. But I didn't have a 7/32" socket that would fit into its 1/4" hex head...so I took a foundling Torx bit and using a knife hone, took off 2 opposing corners so it would fit into the 1/4" square socket. This was PLENTY of strength to remove the self-tapping screws. And install them too.

    Again, many thanks. And this little tip MAY prove to be the critical failure. Metal fatigue in these clips IS definite as they appear to be annealed copper, tin plated. If it happens again, a drop of carefully applied 63/37 electronics solder WILL fix it. Pb free, RoHS approved solder has caused satellites to fail. I don't think solder is all that hazardous but in any case, I have a few pounds for my hobby work.

    Mechanical, if you need to know what kind of engineer. I couldn't handle that phasor stuff. Now tensors? They are cool..
  • Keith_JKeith_J Member Posts: 3
    Finally got to test it...WORKS! Dad is VERY HAPPY and it didn't cost him a DIME. He approved the soldering of the connections and they were easily done with my 35 W Weller. Now it will never fail.
  • rickmanrickman Member Posts: 3
    I KNEW there was a reason I saved the old actuator! Now I am going to fix it and have a spare!
  • Keith_JKeith_J Member Posts: 3
    Just be careful keeping the motor in place. It CAN be reversed which would really mess things up. The one I worked on had blue QC marks on the "top" half with positive lead on the motor inside or furthest from the plug connector. Test the motor before committing on a repair. If I can locate a source for the motor, I'll post it. Repairing these motors is possible but only if your other hobby is repairing watches.

    Soldering is easy but since the terminals are right next to the brush holders, use a large 35-40 watt iron. Weller makes a great 40 Watt that is cheap. Why a lot of heat? Conduction. With more heat, less time is needed.

    Flux core 63/37 or 60/40 in 0.062". Only solder the outboard portion, this is overkill as the motor MIGHT draw 4 amps at the most. Doing the outside only keeps the brush holders cool. They are polyamide which will tolerate 400 F for a short spell.
  • tich1tich1 Member Posts: 1
    When you changed out your thermostat you may have allowed air in the system. To correct the problem you need to bleed the system by opening a small brass fitting just above where your thermostat is .
  • jack137jack137 Member Posts: 19
    Have the same problem. Anyone know how to fix?
  • jack137jack137 Member Posts: 19
    I have a 2000 impals LS and cannot control the heat /ac air flow, it seems to be stuck in a default setting (all vents). The fan operates fine and the vent switch seem to be operating. I did have a rattling coming from the passenger blower motor area for a few seconds but has stopped. When looking under the dash on that side I cannot hear any movement in the air box when turning the control switch. Any ideas where to start?
  • klipsch260klipsch260 Member Posts: 2
    I have an identical situation, the fluid had gotten a low. Did you resolve the situation by bleeding the line or further steps?
  • monty5283monty5283 Member Posts: 1
    I am replacing the heater control panel on the dash since many lights are burned out.

    The replacement part only has 2 screw holes, 2 push in tabs, and one plug-in wire strip.

    I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE HEATER CONTROL PANEL ! :(

    MONTY5283
  • sonofadockersonofadocker Member Posts: 12
    purchased this Impala at the police car auction.
    This car has frosty a/c but there is no heat at all with the controls on hot.
    The car interior will heat up if the car is left running/parked.
    As soon as you start to drive the air turns cold again.
    Any idea on what needs to be done ?
    Old school used to be a vacuum diaphram under the hood...
    Thanks
  • thunderfootthunderfoot Member Posts: 1
    Did you get it replaced,and how was it done?Im having the same problem. I removed the climate control for no reason
  • lawdog89lawdog89 Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2009 Chevy Impala with 21000 miles on it and recently the a/c stops working when the car is stopped and idle. When you drive it comes back on.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Lawdog89,
    I apologize that you are having a concern with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to the dealership to be diagnosed? Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • tatertot5218tatertot5218 Member Posts: 5
    The button for outside air is always lit up. When I push the button to recirculate the inside air, it will not light up. If I hold it down, all it does is blink and the outside air button stays lit up. How do I get the outside air exchange to turn off and just have the inside recirculating air working :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Tatertot5218,
    The recirculation mode cannot be used with outside air, floor, defrost, or
    defogging modes. So if any of those modes are on then you cannot use the recirculation mode. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • rescumnrescumn Member Posts: 1
    I bought a used 2008 Chevy Impala LT and liike it so far. I do have a question. Now that it is getting colder I notice that if I turn the heat control knob to anything less than 3/4 of the way from the HOT setting that the air temp cools down pretty quick. Is this normal and what might be wrong and possible fixes. does that knob control the water flowing to a heater core or a vacuum solenoid or something simple?
    Pat
  • tatertot5218tatertot5218 Member Posts: 5
    I also have a 06 Impala that does the same thing. The heat also seems to lessen when I am going under 50 mph. Anything over that speed the heat blows hotter. I do not use my remote start. :confuse:
  • akjbmwakjbmw Member Posts: 231
    Got air in the coolant system? Not easy to get out and can affect cabin heating.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    tatertot5218,
    Have you taken your vehicle in to the dealer? If not, I would definitely recommend starting there! I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • mikey55mikey55 Member Posts: 5
    INQUIRY TOPIC
    A/C & Heating

    INQUIRY DETAILS
    Hello, first I cannot send this in the allotted characters.I can see by the forums on this site that a lot of people trust in Edmunds. I think the info is not known to Edmunds nor thousands of Chevrolet owners & prospective buyers. This pertains to my 2008 Impala & possibly many other chevys. I told Chevrolet about this last year & last week. The COMPRESSOR runs almost constantly in HEATING & A/C situations. The facts are: SITUATION #1 A/C in the off position, right knob in the vent position, two thumbwheel slides in the mid position calling for heat, air flow in the off position, air in the recirculation mode. The outside temperature drops & more air flow is needed. Switch the fan knob to the first higher position or higher & the outside air automatically switches on. Switch the air back to recirculating air and the A/C kicks on with tne A/C lite off. Push the A/C button, the A/C lite comes on (as it should). Push the A/C button again and the lite goes out as it should but the A/C does not turn off. The only way to turn the A/C off is (1) by pressing the outside air button to the on position or (2) turning the fan knob to the off position. I would think that people living in areas where the temperature drops to freezing would switch the recirculating air back on because they don't want freezing air coming into the car. SITUATION #2 Temperature in the 60's. A/C off. Right knob in the vent position. Heat switches off. Fan knob in second position and outside air open. You're behind a smoky bus and the temperature is dropping. Push recirculating air on & the A/C kicks on. The average person would then slide the temperature controls for heat. They will get heat but also the compressor would be running. This is a waste of gas and waste of power. I sent Chevrolet this info and they told me that's the way it's designed. They asked me what I wanted from this. I told them nothing because I am aware of the situation and I know how to control it. I think all the owners of the models that this is happening in should be notified about it. The only time the compressor is NOT running is when outside air is open and A/C off. Please let me know what you think about this. Thank you for your patience. Mike Vasko
  • sprink1sprink1 Member Posts: 1
    have almost same prob 07 ls no heat,took to dealer,they said air in system,power flushed it ,that was it.to the tune of $129.00
  • tatertot5218tatertot5218 Member Posts: 5
    Since heating and a/c problems seem to be a universal problem with the newer Impalas...wouldnt you think this is a design flaw caused by Chevy and they should correct it? I still have no heat when the car is idling or when the RPMs go under 2..like slow driving. I just purchased this car in October and of course the limited warranty expired as soon as the weather got cold enough for me to use the heater. I do not feel I should have to pay out of pocket to correct something that the designers of the Impala screwed up on. ( I know 5 people who own 2004 or newer Impalas and they all having heating problems)
  • bhenderbhender Member Posts: 1
  • tatertot5218tatertot5218 Member Posts: 5
    Bhender....same problem with my 2004. I find I only have heat when my car is reving more then 1 on the tach. When I have to sit at a stop light, I only get cold air blowing.
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    The fan on my Impala 2000 is not working correctly. I've been loosing speeds one by one. If I put the knob on 1 or 2 nothing happens - minimum speed is now 3 so its either off or roaring which is annoying. Now 3 seems to be failing.

    Anyone know if this is switch or the fan motor?
  • coldimpalacoldimpala Member Posts: 1
    so is there way to get the air out of the system without taking it into the dealer???? cannot believe how many other impala owners have this problem. I agree if it is a known flaw it should be corrected by GM and not the owner. :sick:
  • asnopeasnope Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2007 Impala, yesterday. I want to make sure everything works. I am trying to test the A/C and the compressor does not come on and when I press the A/C button and the light flashes 6 times and then goes off. One thing I must disclose is that I live in Minnesota and the outside temperature was 33 degrees F.

    My question is: Does the HVAC system have a sensor that senses outside air temperature and does not allow the A/C to turn on when it's to cold outside, or is the A/C system broken?
    :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    asnope,
    Per the owners manual page 169 it states: The A/C will not operate if the outside temperature is 40 degrees F or below. I hope this information helps! Welcome to the GM Family!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • compdoc442compdoc442 Member Posts: 1
    2005 Impala. Sometimes the blower will not come on. Wack the dash on the lower right of the
    climate controller or have to leave the fan on and it will come back on again. Dunno if its the relay or the blower motor. Might be the temp cluster.
    What do you all think?
  • bigdubigdu Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2011
    07 Impala, with AC on, Recirculate is pushed/on and I change to Outside Air there is a knocking sound coming from the passenger side dash. This also happens when going from Outside to Recirculate. When parked and turn the engine off, I get the same knocking at about 4 knocks per second for about 15 or 20 seconds then it goes off.

    Any help?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    bigdu,

    Have you had the chance to take your vehicle to your dealership to be diagnosed?

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • lane23lane23 Member Posts: 6
    It's been plus 90 degrees outside and my outside temperature reads that it's negative 40 degress so my A/C doesn't work... how to fix my outside temperature gauge to show the correct outside temperature?

    Thanks!
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    lane23,

    Have you taken the vehicle to your local GM dealership to be looked at? Please keep me posted when the issue has been taken care of.

    Thank you,
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • richl53richl53 Member Posts: 5
    the reostate under the glove box by the fresh air intake
  • richl53richl53 Member Posts: 5
    replace the acuator on the passenger side that controls the flap in the duct for hot or cold
  • richl53richl53 Member Posts: 5
    theres 3 acuators on the duel climate control system 1 for the main hot and cold and 1 on the drivers side and 1 on the passenger side if you have no heat on both sides most likely the main
  • richl53richl53 Member Posts: 5
    You have to remove center of the dashboard 4 screws take off the fuse covers on both sides of the dash 1 screw on each side 2 screws on top by the instrument cluster then its all bush locks pull with a little force it will pop off you have to lower the stering wheel all the way down same witk the gear shift lever
  • richl53richl53 Member Posts: 5
    check the acuator
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