Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thx.
Blaine
Other than that, great car. I love it and no other problems. I have an 02 Impala also and it has the actuator problems described in this forum. Thanks for the info on that folks. I'll replace it soon.
Coolant level is good. New thermostat. Heater hoses going into and out of heater core are hot and at same temperature.
This morning, will all quiet and cold, I could hear each actuator motor as each control setting was selected. Hot/cold drivers side, hot/cold passenger side, and mode selection (defrost, vent, floor). The wind of the motors all sounded normal and alike and no clunky indicating a jam.
Is there a 3rd common actuator?
What is part number?
What is it called?
Where is it located?
Is this a difficult do-it-yourself job? I am cheap and do most work myself, regardless of what it is.
How much tear down of dash is required?
Thanks in advance,
Max :surprise:
Last week the water pump on my '06 Impala failed. When it happened (and aside from coolant being spewed all over the engine), the heater would only blow hot air while the car was in motion. At stoplights, or while just idling, it was cold.
1. Make sure your coolant (Dex-cool) level is where it should be. If coolant is low, the heater will not work as well.
2. Make sure the radiator cap is an 18psi cap, as opposed to a 15psi cap. When my water pump first failed, I erroneously thought it was a faulty radiator cap. I bought a 15psi replacement and installed it. The next morning, the dealer replaced the water pump and left the 15psi cap on the radiator. Even after the repair, I was having the heater issue. I reinstalled the factory 18psi cap later that night, and heater function went back to normal. The system needs the extra pressure.
3. If your coolant level is normal, and you have the 18psi radiator cap, the system most likely has an air bubble in it somewhere preventing coolant from making it all the way through the heater hoses. You can try turning the heat all the way up for several minutes while driving to see if you can eliminate minor air bubbles. That may force enough coolant through the system to "pop" the bubbles. If that doesn't work, you may need to have the system flushed and re-filled to get rid of the bubbles. This is actually a common issue with the '06+ Impalas.
Problem 1 -- Blower is working inconsistently, and in my cold location, this can be dangerous. Heat will work fine for weeks, then will stop working for no apparent reason. 2 WEEKS AGO, our local mechanic replaced the Resistor (blower motor) and I hoped that would solve the problem, but yesterday after driving for about 5 minutes, the blower quit again. I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, re-started the car and the blower came back on for about 5 seconds, then quit again. I drove for about 5 minutes, and the blower kicked back on and worked fine for the rest of the afternoon while I was out running errands. When this situation has happened in the past, I've tried all the different fan settings, tried to change from recirculate to fresh (nothing happens). Also, the back window blower quits working.
Problem 2 -- when the heat does work, the interior never really warms up to the point of being comfortable. Even after driving 45 minutes on the expressways, the temperature gauge only registers right above the very lowest reading on the dash of 140. Coolant level is OK.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Being the geek engineer I am, I tested the failed unit and found it didn't work with 12 VDC. Upon opening the case with careful manipulation of the snap tabs, I saw what could be the problem, the buss bars from the connector to the motor are crimped onto the motor terminals. Carefully removing the motor, a brushed DC perm. magnet unit, it worked! I crimped the connections, then reassembled and reindexed the unit so it will reassemble. It worked with the reindexing...must be a potentiometer on the draft door and some kind of H-bridge to control direction...yeah, that is the engineer speaking.
I found the tool for the job was my flexy-extending screwdriver. But I didn't have a 7/32" socket that would fit into its 1/4" hex head...so I took a foundling Torx bit and using a knife hone, took off 2 opposing corners so it would fit into the 1/4" square socket. This was PLENTY of strength to remove the self-tapping screws. And install them too.
Again, many thanks. And this little tip MAY prove to be the critical failure. Metal fatigue in these clips IS definite as they appear to be annealed copper, tin plated. If it happens again, a drop of carefully applied 63/37 electronics solder WILL fix it. Pb free, RoHS approved solder has caused satellites to fail. I don't think solder is all that hazardous but in any case, I have a few pounds for my hobby work.
Mechanical, if you need to know what kind of engineer. I couldn't handle that phasor stuff. Now tensors? They are cool..
Soldering is easy but since the terminals are right next to the brush holders, use a large 35-40 watt iron. Weller makes a great 40 Watt that is cheap. Why a lot of heat? Conduction. With more heat, less time is needed.
Flux core 63/37 or 60/40 in 0.062". Only solder the outboard portion, this is overkill as the motor MIGHT draw 4 amps at the most. Doing the outside only keeps the brush holders cool. They are polyamide which will tolerate 400 F for a short spell.
The replacement part only has 2 screw holes, 2 push in tabs, and one plug-in wire strip.
I NEED TO KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE HEATER CONTROL PANEL !
MONTY5283
This car has frosty a/c but there is no heat at all with the controls on hot.
The car interior will heat up if the car is left running/parked.
As soon as you start to drive the air turns cold again.
Any idea on what needs to be done ?
Old school used to be a vacuum diaphram under the hood...
Thanks
I apologize that you are having a concern with your vehicle. Have you taken the vehicle to the dealership to be diagnosed? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
The recirculation mode cannot be used with outside air, floor, defrost, or
defogging modes. So if any of those modes are on then you cannot use the recirculation mode. If you have any further questions please let me know. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Pat
Have you taken your vehicle in to the dealer? If not, I would definitely recommend starting there! I look forward to your response.
Christina
GM Customer Service
A/C & Heating
INQUIRY DETAILS
Hello, first I cannot send this in the allotted characters.I can see by the forums on this site that a lot of people trust in Edmunds. I think the info is not known to Edmunds nor thousands of Chevrolet owners & prospective buyers. This pertains to my 2008 Impala & possibly many other chevys. I told Chevrolet about this last year & last week. The COMPRESSOR runs almost constantly in HEATING & A/C situations. The facts are: SITUATION #1 A/C in the off position, right knob in the vent position, two thumbwheel slides in the mid position calling for heat, air flow in the off position, air in the recirculation mode. The outside temperature drops & more air flow is needed. Switch the fan knob to the first higher position or higher & the outside air automatically switches on. Switch the air back to recirculating air and the A/C kicks on with tne A/C lite off. Push the A/C button, the A/C lite comes on (as it should). Push the A/C button again and the lite goes out as it should but the A/C does not turn off. The only way to turn the A/C off is (1) by pressing the outside air button to the on position or (2) turning the fan knob to the off position. I would think that people living in areas where the temperature drops to freezing would switch the recirculating air back on because they don't want freezing air coming into the car. SITUATION #2 Temperature in the 60's. A/C off. Right knob in the vent position. Heat switches off. Fan knob in second position and outside air open. You're behind a smoky bus and the temperature is dropping. Push recirculating air on & the A/C kicks on. The average person would then slide the temperature controls for heat. They will get heat but also the compressor would be running. This is a waste of gas and waste of power. I sent Chevrolet this info and they told me that's the way it's designed. They asked me what I wanted from this. I told them nothing because I am aware of the situation and I know how to control it. I think all the owners of the models that this is happening in should be notified about it. The only time the compressor is NOT running is when outside air is open and A/C off. Please let me know what you think about this. Thank you for your patience. Mike Vasko
Anyone know if this is switch or the fan motor?
My question is: Does the HVAC system have a sensor that senses outside air temperature and does not allow the A/C to turn on when it's to cold outside, or is the A/C system broken?
:confuse:
Per the owners manual page 169 it states: The A/C will not operate if the outside temperature is 40 degrees F or below. I hope this information helps! Welcome to the GM Family!
Christina
GM Customer Service
climate controller or have to leave the fan on and it will come back on again. Dunno if its the relay or the blower motor. Might be the temp cluster.
What do you all think?
Any help?
Have you had the chance to take your vehicle to your dealership to be diagnosed?
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service
Thanks!
Have you taken the vehicle to your local GM dealership to be looked at? Please keep me posted when the issue has been taken care of.
Thank you,
Caron, GM Customer Service