Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

folderqueen · January 2008

The first place I took it to is the shop where I usually take my car for maintenance and repairs if needed. They told me that it was the neutral safety switch that needed replacing, but to do that the whole transmission had to be taken out and they didn't do anything with transmissions. They suggested that I take it to a transmission shop or a dealership. I went to the transmission shop that they suggested and they spent all day yesterday running all kinds of tests and couldn't find out why it wouldn't start. He said he was beginning to think that maybe it had something to do with the computer in the car or the antitheft/security system, and wanted my permission to take it to the dealership today because they would be able to run more sophisticated tests and should be able to find out what the problem was. I had called the transmission shop back this afternoon as I was out of pocket most of the day, and asked them if they got it to the dealership and they said they did. I was going to wait a little bit before I called the dealership to see if they knew anything, but in a few minutes the guy from the transmission shop that had been working on my car called me and said he had called the dealership and they said it was the security module that was bad. I have been very impressed with the people at the transmission shop. Anyway, hopefully I will have my car back tomorrow.

therobinsnest · February 2008

Hello all, I recently tried to start our 97 Limited and the starter wouldn't turn the engine over. After several attempts it cranked but belched white smoke everywhere. It has a little over 200,000 miles so I'm not surprised that it's asking for help. I need some too, I pulled the plenum (upper intake) off and found the lower half full of coolant (no doubt it had run down into one of the cylinders). When I pulled the lower manifold off (on the way to the heads) I didn't find coolant anywhere else.
My question is: Can you "blow" just an intake gasket and cause all this without having a "blown" head gasket?
:sick:

imidazol97 · February 2008

You have an intake manifold (upper part) that has coolant leaking around the seals which let the coolant go from the lower intake manifold metal to the upper manifold (ABS) to warm the throttle body region against icing. Sometimes leaks around the seals let coolant go to the exterior; sometimes it goes interior.

Drain your oil immediately if you do your own oil changes. There is likely coolant in the oil. If your oil looks chocolatey or milky that's a sure sign. The symptom that the car didn't want to turn over meant that enough has leaked past the seals (probably when the motor was shut off hot and temperature and pressure went up even more) that it hydrolocked. Usually they won't turn at all and damage is done to starter or motor parts.

The coolant in the oil attacks the bearings and ruins them. People have fixed the problems only to run their motor a few weeks or months and have them self destruct due to the damage done by the acidic etching on the moving parts.

If you change your own oil, put in any, cheap oil and run the motor just a minute or so to get fresh, clean oil to the bearings. Then don't run it at all.

Have the car repaired by towing it somewhere. However at 200,000 you may not choose to repair the motor and instead replace it with one from a recycling yard or rebuilt. Your choice based on what you have. If the motor were running well and the trans is fine and the body is fairly good, you may want to repair and take your chances.

To assess how likey oil has coolant contamination, use the appearance of the oil on the dipstick and if you can drain it look at what comes out for milkiness. It is possible the coolant leak has been slow enough that the coolant has been burning off in the cylinders with little getting past the rings. It's possible it just increased in volume the last time you shut it off. So you have a decision to make.

If you have the UIM replaced, have the lower gaskets replaced under the metal Lower Intake Manifold with the aluminum framed- GM gasket. Don't use the original design. Have the UIM replaced with a Dorman units or one that has a modification for the EGR tube that sticks up out of the metal LIM and carries the hot exhaust gases that get recycled. That hot area deteriorates and is often the source of the leak as well as the O-rings in the gaskets on the UIM.

Replacement might run $300 for parts ($175 Dorman upper, $30 LIM gasket, NEW spark plugs (Delco/GM--originals has white stuff on them from coolant burning). Labor is variable. The oxygen sensor sometimes is hurt by coolant, but likely not. Use only GM oxygen sensor replacements.

therobinsnest · February 2008

THANKS FOR THE REPLY! A good keyword search worked wonders too. I have never used a forum for troubleshooting before, I really appreciate knowing this problem is not a new one (who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks!

). The oil looked fine, a little dark but last change was October- found no coolant at all, I think the gasket most likely was weeping into the intake for a while but really let go only this week. I have a new gasket set (2nd generation) with the EGR pickup tube, just considering what a light dose of permatex might be worth along with it. Thanks for sharing your experiences (cdpotters, vlanman25, donnamike, gtmush, twalden1 and mostly imidazol97), I have more confidence in putting in just a gasket set for now, I drive it close to home and another motor is way out of my price range.

imidazol97 · February 2008

Skip the Permatex. Just clean the aluminum LIM. Do I understand you are reusing the UIM? Be sure to check the area around the EGR tube for crystallization by picking at it with a tool to see if it's weakened. That area can also leak from the coolant passages into the UIM interior.The Dorman has a good set of O-rings for the coolant holes; much better than the original GMs. The coolant also goes into the throttle body through the separate gasket on the end of the UIM.

I still would recommend replacing the LIM gasket at your high mileage. That car's done great!

You might have noticed an occasional miss if it were leaking for a while earlier. You may have caught it at the earliest major problem.

Good luck with her.

therobinsnest · February 2008

Well, I had wanted to re-use the old plenum.......one of the transfer tube ends was missing a corner and the other fell apart on touch. Dorman to the rescue, $150 more than I wanted to spend but still less than a motor swap and inexpensive for peace of mind. Thanks for pointing it out, I can't tell for sure if the leak originated there (the TB seal was intact & looked better than the UIM seal) but if either leaked at all you wouldn't know till the LIM was full. This engine would have been so much better off if the plenum design had been cast in aluminum, at least the area where all the fluids pass.

cuffs68 · March 2008

My friend as a 95 lesaber...this cars starts and idels fine i noticed on the dash the tep stays at 1/4 of the gage (not a digital dash)....even after its been running for an hour...the next thing i saw was a red light beside the volt gage that flikers some times but keep a 13-14 volt charge ...once in a while it goes high but then goes back to normal....next he removed the cat ....he said the old one was blocked and it was to much to replace it so he just put a piece of pipe.....now the big question....even with all of this...when the car is hot and you excellerate the car boggs down and loses power...like its in limp mode ...but if you let go of the gas the car wont stall just idels....now if you stomp om the gas while rolling its like theres no kick down and starts to bogg again......does anyone have some solotions for me .......or should i buy him a bike ..lol....thanks

imidazol97 · March 2008

> tep stays at 1/4 of the gage

The only way to determine if the thermostat is making the motor warm up to 195 before opening is to use a temperature reading device (infrared, e.g.) or try a little hand test. You can try holding the upper radiator hose after the motor has been running at the full temperature for a while. My subjective description is that it's too hot to hold for more than couple of seconds.

Another judgement is whether the heater puts out enough heat after the motor has reached that 1/4 setting. If it does, your thermostat is probably okay and it's just the gauge is reading different.

>saw was a red light beside the volt gage that flikers

If the light is supposed to turn on to make you notice that charging has dropped below acceptable limits, I'd check first to be sure the battery cables are clean and not corroded. Remove the negative first and use a wire cleaner to be sure you've got bright metal contact. Then take off the positives. If you have a double positive cable with one cable on top of the next be sure to check in between. Reconnect positives and then negatives.

Be sure to turn off the heater/AC with the key ON before removing cables. A few people think removing cables for a battery change has caused the auto AC units to go crazy.

Check connetions at the alternator and grounds below the coils and on the fender behind the battery. Move the bolts if they are loose to tighten them for a good connection.

You're down to a bad alternator regulator or other part. You can remove the alternator and take it to some auto parts stores for free testing. And you can have a test run on the car but I'm not sure if they pick up little quirks like you might be getting.

>Car bogs down

Has he had a free code scan run at the auto parts stores? His 95 may be that in between version I and version II that takes an odd connector, but it's worth checking at several different ones to see if they have the ability to scan. Just get the codes; do NOT buy parts based on the codes. YOU have to figure out what is causing the code.

How did he know his catalytic converter was bad? I have suspicion the same problem with the bogging may be why he thought the catalytic converter was bad. Diagnosis is first in line. Trying new parts instead of diagnosis can get expensive.

tallytown · March 2008

I had a 93 lesabre and have given it to my son. While I had it it would "stall" without any warning. I would be driving and the engine would stall. I mean completely stop. I put the trans in neutral, turned the key, and it would start and no more problems. This happened to me 3 times and once to my son.There was absolutely no indication and it was like you were coasting. Talked to mechanic and he said he couldn't put the computer on it as there would not be any code. Anyone have any ideas?

imidazol97 · March 2008

Battery wires. Does it have the double positive cables with one on top of the other. Check closely for corrosion.

Ignition switch at base of steering column?

Crankshaft position sensor.

You don't say how many miles are on the car. I don't have any real clues as to what is happening--I'm just throwing out some guesses. The immediate restart sounds like what crankshaft position sensors ahve done to some people. But start with the easiest first.

zunizj37 · April 2008

..hello....i have a 97 Buick le Sabre Custom....ummm lately for the last couple months ...my security light would pop on when I go to start the car and it would kill the ignition all the lights would go on but the car would not start, and the light would go off in 3 minutes and i could try it again...sometimes it would do this and sometimes it wouldnt, and the security light even pops on while i am driving too...its very frustrating because you just never know when its going to not start....just wondering if you have any ideas on what i can do to fix this problem.....

imidazol97 · April 2008

First if you h ave a second key, use it and see if the problem is better.

Next the key has a resistor chip in it near the head; it's a small black piece about 2 mm x 2 mm with a metal contact on each side. That's what is read by a Theft Deterrent Module each time the key is inserted. Use a pencil eraser and rub the contacts on that black chip.

Third the contacts inside the key lock cylinder may be worn or dirty. These are the contacts that rub lightly on the chip when the key is inserted and read the resistance of that chip. You can dip the key in rubbing alcohol and insert it quickly to get alcohol on those contacts to try to clean them. They also seem to wear. I would guess if you have a set of keys that are heavy or long and swing back and forth in the lock cylinder as you drive those contacts may be worn.

Fourth the two tiny wires that read the resistance go down the steering column and are bent and unbent each time the tilt wheel is put up and down. After lots of cycles and years on the car those little wires have individual strands taht break from being flexed. This changes the resistance of those wires and changes the resistance read for the key chip on the other end.

The system is called VATS. You can search on the internet and find lots of mentions. A solution is to go to the bottom of the steering column and locate the connector for many wires and identify the little orange or other color tube that has the two wires from the lock cylinder inside (they're not two separate little wires).

You replace the two wires with a set of resistors that you put into their contacts or cut the wires and solder them on the ends. E.g., my resistance for the key chip at the key says about 870 ohms. There are lists of the 15 resistances used for VATS keys on the internet. Find the one closest to your reading for your key chips.

Buy resistor packs at Radio Shack or a friendly auto alarm installer that replaces that resistance. Alarm installers have premade resistors because they were always replacing the security VATS system with their own and they bypass the resistance. An easy fix might be to have an alarm installer put in the resistors for you.

The TDM, theft module, has 4 failure modes. One of which is that it decides it's not working right and quits protecting the car in case of the wrong resistance reading. Some people have cut their wires while the car was running to put the module into that mode. I do not recommend that unless you are a car geek who can fix it if soemthing goes wrong.

With luck yours will default into that mode if the light is coming on and going off while you're driving. That's what mine did. If I change battery, I'm going to jump the cables to keep power to the system so the TDM doesn't go into a check mode again.

Another factor I found before mine failed in default mode was if I put the key in quickly and turned without waiting to start, it would stall for 3 minutes. If I put the key in, and let the system do its checks, I would start 99% of the time without a wait.

twohundred · May 2008

I have a 1995 Buick Lesabre with 184,000 miles on it. The car runs well when it is cold. It doesn't give me any trouble when I drive it 18 miles to work. The check engine light comes on when it warms up and it stalls. I can shift it into neutral and it will start up right away. I have new plug wires, spark plugs and a new air filter. The gas filter was replaced about 10,000 miles ago.

The car will stall about 5 times in a row when just driving 7 or 8 miles. It seems to always stall a slower speeds and never stalls when I driving over 55 mph on the highway. Someone suggested camshaft sensor. I would appreciate any ideas.

Thank you,

Two hundred Plus Guy

imidazol97 · May 2008

There are many things that can cause your problem. The "good" thing is the check engine light coming on. Take it to Advance Auto, Autozone, whoever in your area does free check for codes. It should have a stored code since the light's been on.

Be sure to call them if it's not a local place where you know, and ask them if they have the connector to check on your car. There was a year or two where the connector is odd before ALDC II became the standard.

Remember the code is only a symptom. Don't replace parts based on that. Use that to diagnose. My first real thought is the MAF sensor. Or the IAC may be sticking. Both of these are on the throttle body and can be removed. The MAF can be cleaned but the little wire is fragile. Use CRC cleaners that are for intake cleaning, such as CRC on the shelf at stores.

Crankshaft sensor usually has people saying it won't restart right away. Yours is up there in miles thought. I'd have to go look for camshaft sensor symptoms. Yours may or may not fit.

The check engine light code needs to be read first.

twohundred · May 2008

I got some CRC Lectra parts cleaner and sprayed it into the connectors for the MAP sensor, Throttle control sensor and the Idle control sensor. This seems to have solved my problem. My check engine light no longer comes on and my car is no longer stalling.

Thank you for your help,

Two hundred Plus Guy

cgraeser · May 2008

I have a 99 buick lesabre custom 3.8 vin k with 112,000 miles on it and im getting a code for a multiple cylinder misfire ive cleaned my injectors replaced spark plugs and cables replaced ecm replaced maf sensor checked for vacum leaks and everything orignaly i was getting a low volatge for my maf sensor and i replaved it and it then read bank 1 and 2 lean and cylinder 1 and cylinder 4 misfire so i checked my fuel pressure and it was like 12 pounds so i replaced my fuel pump and same thing accept at first it was 48 pounds drove it to the store to have the codes cleared and it stalled out and wouldnt start back and i check my fuel pressure and was getting not a drop of fuel at the rail then all of a sudden bam it had pressure and it crank up and then die a few times then it would run with an erratic idle so i checked my fuel and one day I put my card in the gas pump and walked in to get some coffe and noticed that it took 14 gallons to fill up so my gas gage is wrong well after that it fixed my stall problem until it gets to half a tank but my lean codes and cylinder 1 and 4 codes went away but came back as a multiple random misfire and the car has no power even on flat ground ive just put so much work into it trouble shooting and money and still nothing idles good but give it a little throttel up to 3000 rpms and its starts missing again the check ingine light flashes let it idle on its own and it dont miss sounds good and runs good then put it in drive the rpms fall inbetween 0 and 1000 and starts missing and running very rough ive tried everything and could really use some help someone mentioned crank sensor and dont know if i can spend any more money on something that wont fix my car so9 any help will be greatly appreciated

voyager4 · May 2008

Hi, If you got yours to stop with just the cleaner sprayed on the connectors, you're lucky, I took mine to a shop where the owner read the codes and then he said that he just knew what to look at next, It was the MAF sensor, he tried cleaning it ( the two wires you see after removing it that is) but didn't work, I went to a salvage yard and got a used one for $ 20.00 ......now it Runs Fine. Hope this helps

twohundred · May 2008

Thanks for the message. I thought my problem was fixed. I found a used IAC sensor and placed it into my car. I didn't have any problems for about a week. I will try the MAF sensor and see if this makes in work again.

Thanks,

Two Hundred

cgraeser · May 2008

Another thing you could do that fits alot of your symptoms is have your ecm checked by autozone they will do it for free and usually takes all of about 15 min to remove it and replace it with a few good tests if tests good check your crankshaft or camshaft position sensor make sure the wires are not crimped and that the connections are clean and tight even though alot of ppl report when bad that the car wont start until after it sits for a while is not always the case I was having the same problem andas u can see fro my post been changing stuff and everything and was told by a buick dealership to try it and It worked the stall and miss are both gone. but just something to try cause its free to test and it controls everything your replacing just as i was.

riteaid · June 2008

I have a 92 Buick lesabre and sometimes it won't start We have change the plugs and wires .we also have a new battery. It seems to only do it when it's hot. But no engine lights come on. It also has enough fluids. We think it might be the thermostat. What do you think? Also where is the thermostat?? have any pics?

twohundred · June 2008

I would go to the library and pick up a service manual on your car. There are at least two that are still out on that model Lesabre. I also go online and look at the parts on the Auto Zone website. Good Luck.

imidazol97 · June 2008

You don't mention the mileage but I'll guess it's over 150K miles...

Check battery cables at both ends first. If it has the double layer positive cable check between the two positives. Pull the plastic on the copper cables back to be sure they are not corroded down into the cable.

It might be a crankshaft position sensor, but people sometimes have stalling problems with those. But one symptom is they act up when hot for some people. Try pouring cold water on it--it's beside the crankshaft balancer and tucked behind the edge.

Could be a contact or connection on the ESC beneath the coils. Some have found a ground wire in the connector that had poor contact.

Could be fuel pump not pumping with enough pressure. Need pressure gauge and flow measuring capability to see if it pumps enough volume as well as at a high enough pressure.

Camshaft position sensor may be off, but I think people say those set a code and light.

Have you taken it to Autozone or Advance Auto to have the codes read. Don't buy anything based on codes; just get them and then go back and check.

Also some people have had trouble with the buss ground in the door jamb under the driver's foot beside the A-pillar. If you're in an area where the snow and salt or lots of wet weather gets drops of water carried onto the carpet there as the feet go in and out--or the car leaks or the windows sometimes are left open, these corrode. Usually someone will have other symptoms that come and go with the corroded buss like power door locks work and then don't work or power windows or the AC controls cut in and out. link title

tmlfan6000 · June 2008

i back out of the drive way and started driving it it then died.i tryed to start it again but nothing happened it wont even turn over. i tryed a jumper cables and a different battery. it has a new starter and the battery was a new one. when i turn the key the lights turn on on the dash but thats it nothing else happens it dosent even crank. is this a security system problem with the key or is there a fuse problem. but what would cause it to die when driving and then not being able to start again

michaeltb · July 2008

Dont know if anyone can help me on this, but here goes.
I am the second owner of a 1997 Buick Le Saber Custom with (dont laugh) 240k, and it has been a great car until now.
First off, three times of late,(last 30 days) when I turn the key to the on position at start a solenoid beside the glove box keeps rattling, and you can hear the fuel pump going, the fuel going through the rail on the engine, and there is good pressure at the relief/test valve, and returning to the tank, but the pump never quits. Nor will the engine fire on cranking. Is it cycling due to failure of the fuel pressure regulator on the rail? I have examined it for signs of fuel leakage in the stem and tube, but there is nothing there.
Secondly, before this last bout of fuel cycling and no start of which it has yet to recover from, on our last drive we had a sudden period of high Rpms of around 3000, and I noticed a quick but massive discharge on the Alt gauge, check engine light was on and I had to actually hold it back from lunging, yet there was no power/poor acceleration when given the gas. I made it back into town, (4 miles) pulled in and shut it down at the grocery store, I restarted it right then, and it ran at the normal Rpms. When we came out of the store it did its clicking no fuel routine, I checked all wire terminals, at some point it decided to start again and get us home driving normaly.
Again upon our arrival home I restarted it several times with no noticed problems.
The next morning, once again nothing but the solenoid clicking and fuel cycling through the rail.
Is it a brain box issue? Or fuel regulator?
If I could just get it started I could drive it to a code reader, and I might get a solid lead, but I hesitate paying to get it towed to a service station, as I am a family of four w/ limited income and am more of a DIY person.
Any ideas on this would be appreciated, as I would love to get a few more cheap miles out of this great Buick.
Thanks,
Michael

eldonray · August 2008

Same symptoms on my 87 and it was the tps (throttle positioning sensor) got it auto zone for 30.00, runs fine now, Eldon

eldonray · August 2008

Just replaced the tps (throttle positioning sensor) for 30.00 at the auto zone. was not starting and now it is working great, Eldon

eldonray · August 2008

cheap fix. tps( throttle positioning sensor) for 30.00 at auto zone, runs fine now,
eldon

eldonray · August 2008

I have the same buick, replaced the maf, (mass air flow sensor) and the tps( throttle control sensor) tps for 30.. and the maf for 60.00 at the auto zone. now its running fine, the tps showed a code 21 for your info, Eldon. have other codes if needed for other problems boys

partybynight · August 2008

I own a 1993 buick lesabre with 150,000 miles on it which was well cared for until i put it away for a year. Once I got back and changed the battery out (forgot to disconnect cables) everything ran fine except for a permanent check engine light. Then it began stalling when coasting around 20-35mph, but would be fine on the hwy. It also had trouble starting every so often. Both problems got more frequent, and I took it in. The shop replaced some vacuum tubes and couldn't get the check engine light off but the problem remained. A buddy recommended that I replace the throttle position sensor which i did three weeks ago. That solved the problem (and the check engine light) for a while but, even though the connector that connects to the TPS was snug, there was no clip to hold it in. Now the problems are reoccurring much more often, but the check engine isn't on anymore. A buddy thinks the new TPS has been compromised because the connection was teased, but it seemed well seated, even without the clip. Does it sound like it's still the TPS, or might there be another problem in the spark or fuel delivery system? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

cfd911 · August 2008

hi, i have a 1999 lesabre 3.8l 92,000 miles car runs great with 1 exception, when cold the car starts just fine after i drive it for about a half hour , i shut it off if i come out an hour later from sitting the car has difficulty starting about 5 seconds of cranking then it starts and stumbles for a sec then thens runs fine, good plugs and wires need help any ideas to lead me to a solution???

imidazol97 · August 2008

Leaking injector?

But check fuel pressure regulator hose on front of motor for gasoline in the vacuum tube? The fuel pressure regulators sometimes fail and let fuel into the intake manifold. There was a recall on some models because a backfire could occur which might split the ABS plastic manifold. I do not know if that affects your year. Check the NHSTA site for recalls.

Also try turning the key to ON for two seconds until the fuel pump cuts off and then OFF and back to ON 3 times to thoroughly prime the fuel system. You might have a weakened fuel pump or pressure valve. Has the car been driven low on fuel? That's hard on the pumps in some models.

wideawakeboi · September 2008

The car was running good for a while but now it is stalling and smoking but would crank back up till it just died on me.When it stalled i would pump the gas to help it crank but now it doesnt even sound like it wants to crank.The oil pressure seems to be low and it is running hot.A poof of smoke came from the motor the last time i was trying to make it crank.

imidazol97 · September 2008

If the smoking is white smoke that may be coolant (water) being burned through the cylinders. You need to find out immediately if it is. It could be the upper intake manifold leaking coolant internally. If so, the oil must be changed because coolant in the oil is death on the bearings. If the oil has a chocolate milk look or whitish cast, that's likely to be coolant.

If the motor does not even turn over, you could have a bad starter motor or a bad connection. The most likely is the cable at the battery on the positive connection. There are two cables, one on top of the other. It must be taken off and cleaned with the plastic cover pulled back.

Turn ON the key and turn the automatic air conditioner to off. Then turn the key OFF. Now you're ready to remove the negative cable from the battery. Then with it off, remove the positive cable. You'll probably find a white powder between the cables on the positive post of the battery.

If you hear nothing when you turn the key to CRANK, not even an initial thunk from the starter, your starter could be bad. If the headlights don't dim when that happens, it indicates a bad connection or bad starter.

IF the headlights dim, that means the starter is drawing current, but your motor could be hydrolocked, a cylinder has water in it and the starter can't crank it.

If there's water in the cylinder get the old oil out and run motor with new oil briefly to get good oil to bearings. Then repair car.

wideawakeboi · September 2008

What do you mean by then repair?

imidazol97 · September 2008

If you find the motor is not turning because it's hydrolocked, you need to repair the UIM by replacing and repair the LIM gaskets.

wideawakeboi · September 2008

The motor is turning over but it will not crank.It sounds like it wants to but it doesnt.What could be the problem?

wideawakeboi · September 2008

I forgot to mention white smoke came out of the tail pipe when i cranked it one time.I seen a poof a white smoke today trying to crank it.

tallytown · September 2008

son has 1993 buick lesabre. starts fine and will move if very little gas is applied. when stepping on gas the car bucks and wants to stall. car has 92000miles on it.any suggestions?

jroberts4 · September 2008

if you have a 3.8L engine usual the air pluenum goes bad and allows antifreeze into the cylinders the engine needs to be replaced

jroberts4 · September 2008

if you have a 3.8 L engine the air plenum usually goes bad leaking antifreeze into the cylinders and engine needs to be replaced

imidazol97 · September 2008

There are several things to try to check on here. The Upper Intake Manifold is NOT one of them.

You may have a bad TPS (throttle position sensor) that rotates with the throttle plate to tell the computer what the driver is requesting in power. The electrical contact rheostat may not be changing smoothly. So the computer gets odd signals.

The MAF (manifold air flow) sensor may be bad. Some people remove the connector and if the motor runs fine without it that's a good sign. If you have another vehicle with one, some people transfer a good one in place. Sometimes replacements don't work right, so get a good one if it is bad.

The fuel pump may not be pumping with enough pressure. A slight decrease below the correct pressure and volume from the pump affects the spray pattern on the injectors. At 15 years and 100K miles, if the car was often run with low fuel so the pump sometimes isn't cooled enough, the pump may have worn out. And it may just have worn out. If you end up replacing the pump, a lot of cheap, off brands have given trouble with pressure and running right. A Delco is a best replacement; costly, but best. I can cite a recent forum post where someone had lots of trouble with running; they ended up replacing the year-old replacement pump from a cheaper parts store.

Also the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) thats a small cylinder device on the fuel line with a vacuum line attached --usually on front of the motor next to valve cover--may be bad. It adjusts the fuel pressure when the vacuum drops to give a higher pressure for better spray pattern. Pull off the vacuum line to it and if there's gasoline in the line that's a sure sign it has failed. It also may fail other ways.

And the FIRST thing to check is the electrical system. Have the plugs been replaced within the last 40-50 K? Plug wires? They may be giving poor connection causing poor ignition. And also the coils can fail giving a symptom like you're getting.

The plugs and wires are relatively cheap and easy to do. When you pull the plugs, look at the tips to see if they are oil fouled or show white deposits for the very rare coolant leak for those years. Look at the ends of the spark plugs wires. Sometimes corrosion is inside the end connectors.

Assume the easiest problem and it often saves money over the more esoteric problems. These motors and transmissions are dependable and durable.

If I were a betting person, I'd wager on plugs, wires, or ignition coil. You might pick up coils from a recycling yard. The coils are easy to switch on most of these...

Again, the years of your 3800 (it's not a 3.8) don't have manifold leaks.

lwc2 · September 2008

I had a 98 Buick with the same problems. In the beginning it seemed like it needed plugs and or plug wires. To make a long story short, the intake manifolds were replaced with what GM called REVISED manifolds.
At the time, they reimbursed me for about half of the expense to repair.
Good luck!

parku · November 2008

Hi,

I have a buick le sabre 1995 and I am the second owner. When I first purchased the car everything looked okay, but about two months ago this problem started. When I start the car the check engine light comes on and I turn off the car and start it again and the light goes off. One day I only turned the car on once and the light was on. I was driving and I stopped at a stop light my car turned off by itself. The steering wheel wouldnt move and the car would not start. I kept on trying to turn it on for about 5 minutes and it started back up. I dont know why the check engine light turns on the first time I turn on the car and it is off the second time. If anyone has had the same problem, or knows anything about this I would really apprechiate the answer.

imidazol97 · November 2008

You need to diagnose the code. Take it to an Autozone or Advance Auto or other place where they will read the stored codes free and the current codes and tell you what they are. Do not buy anything or replace anything until you post someone and someone knowledgeable tells you what may be the true cause.

A light can be the gas cap not sealing, but it usually doesn't do the check so that it would turn the light off on a restart. Leaks in the pressure sealing for the gas vapor system are common problems. The code check at a store will help.

I Have read in other forums that some 1994 and 1995 Bonnevilles have problems with the computer more often than is common ont he H-bodies (Olds, Bonneville, LeSabre, Park Ave, Olds 98). Replacing the computer helps.

The stalling and restart can be the crankshaft position sensor, which may not give a code.

You didn't mention how many miles on the car. You can also have trouble with MAF sensor and throttle position sensor wearing after lots of miles and years.

jlhe2nd · November 2008

I was wondering if your stalling issues have been corrected, and what exactly fixed it? I have a '91 LeSabre (Clifford, the big red car) and in April, it suddenly started stalling, and my mechanic and several colleagues have not had success in honing in on the cause. It is due for inspection, and I will need to donate it, even though it only has 59,000 easy miles on it.

I know that the computer and many other parts were replaced (then he put the original parts back when the problem wasn't resolved).

I would love to know if anyone has discovered the solution

Thanks much

imidazol97 · November 2008

For both of you another suggestion is to have a fuel pressure gauge put on the car and taped to the windshield where you can watch while driving and see what it does just before the stall. Some have said fuel pumps are a problem in stalling. But there are others.

Several people suggest that anything other than Delco replacements have given trouble in several months.

tallytown · November 2008

Cannot say if problem is fixed or what happened. My son had driven it and it stopped stalling. Has not been any problems since first reported. Sorry I cannot be of any help. Go figure.

jlhe2nd · November 2008

Thanks for the fuel suggestion - I'll talk to him about it.

Tally, did you replace anything in your quest for fixing the problem?

This is an extremely frustrating problem - the car has basically been at the shop since April! Fortunately, we have other vehicles, but I hate just junking the car over this - I would at least like to sell it for something.

Any other suggestions are supremely appreciated

tallytown · January 2009

Son finally got buick fixed, He took it to the dealer, and the problem was the coil. Only running on 2 cylinders. Cost $171.

jlhe2nd · January 2009

Well, the good news is that the problem was fixed. The better news is that we found a 2004 Civic for our daughter and sold the Buick, in running condition and ok.

Turns out the problem was two fold, with the coil (I think) being the first - the NAPA part works for all cars except the '91, where there are issues. While that 'bad' part was in the car, our guy changed the computer, and that didn't correct the problem, so he put the old computer back in. With changing other parts, he and a buddy finally determined that the NAPA part was no good, and got me a used one. Then another buddy suggested trying to replace the computer again, and that turned out to be the second part of the problem - both parts simultaneously were bad.

Thanks for all the assistance!! Happy New Year!

Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

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