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Lincoln LS General Care & Maintenance

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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    The other day I sold our LS. It was a V-6 sport. Bought it with 95K miles, had it for two years and put 20K easy miles on it, It had annoying issues that you do not expect from a Luxuary car. I did not care for our only Loncoln dealer in town where their service advisors work on commission. No trip to the dealer cost less than $250. Had the air bag light on twice ( clock spring and wiring harness under driver seat) $580, had blown PCV valve rubber elbow ($280), Idle selonoid ($270).

    Lincoln LS is a good looking car, has an excellent highway ride, but unless you have a good trust worthy independant mechanic to work on it, I do not recommend buying this car.

    Joe
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Just purchased a 2005 LS. V6, 47K, excellent cond. Where is the cabin filter? Under driver seat? I bought an air filter, Oil filter, and the Motorcraft part synthetic 5W20 oil. Looks like the coolant, plugs, and tranny fluid doesn't need to be changed for a long time. I don't think I would go 100K, but maybe a year or two? I only will drive this car about 7K a year.

    The Motorcraft oil was pretty cheap. (but the car used 7 qts.?) Would this be good oil to use in my '07 Mitsubishi that also uses 5W20 oil?

    Thanks for any help and any other maintenence issues I should take care of?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It's under the hood on the passenger side just below the windshield wiper. I wouldn't use the motorcraft 5W-20 in your Mitsubishi unless it calls for that viscosity - if it does then the motorcraft is a synthetic blend so it should be better than regular oil.
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    jodar96jodar96 Member Posts: 400
    The round plastic plugs where you have to push in the center piece to release them could easily get lost. After replacing the cabin filter, make sure all plastic pieces are pushed in place securley.

    Being three years old, I would go ahead and replace the coolant also. It is very easy to drain and flush the coolant. The drain plug is on right side of the radiator, and easily reached. You do not need to raise the car to drain the coolant.

    Joe
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Thanks for the replies. Doesn't the cooling system need to be bled? I saw some info on a Lincoln forum so I will probably go ahead and do it.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    There is a more detailed bleeding procedure but I don't remember the details other than I think there is a valve near the top of the engine (highest point in the system) and that needs to be bled to remove air bubbles. Should be in the shop manual.
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Yeah that was what I had read. The coolant is down on the list, we detailed the interior, along with replacing the air filter, a wash and wax, a little paint touch up, etc.

    The car seems to be maintained and taken care of, the more I drive it the more I like it!
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    bonniesboytoybonniesboytoy Member Posts: 11
    Still haven't found the reason the passenger side A/c blow hot when it S/B cold..As usual by the time they start the A/C and then check it, it's back to normal again..
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    rebel90rebel90 Member Posts: 8
    I am looking at a 2002 LS v8 with 75k miles for 5 grand...Yes thats right 5 grand...I test drove it and right away noticed suspension noise when hitting bumps...I mentioned it to the guy selling it and he said he thought it was the shocks and struts and thats why the price is low...After some research it seems to me that this might be the sway bar and bushings instead? A much cheaper job I might add...At 75k miles do you guys think the shocks and struts would be ruined already? On top of this the paint is chipping all over and its clear that NO maintainence has been done to this car (owned by a kid). If in fact I do buy this what would you guys rec me to do right away for maintenance and repairs? What will I be able to do myself (spark plugs,oil etc) and what is going to cost me $$. Any help would be GREAT!

    Thanks.
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    jeyhoejeyhoe Member Posts: 490
    There are 2 heater control vavles in the system - driver and pass. I would suggest a look at pr replacement of the passenger HCV may lead to a resolution. It may be sticky. Good luck.
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    volvo740volvo740 Member Posts: 3
    Same problem... Tire blow out on freeway. AAA not able to change tire
    and the factory trunk tool not work.. Firestone quoted a price of 5 bucks each
    or 100 for all tires... Online parts places sell 20 for 90 bucks plus 8 for
    shipping.. Firestone said they were 19mm lug nuts but used a 20 mm
    socket...
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    ptrodriguezptrodriguez Member Posts: 1
    Hi I'm Patrick,
    I want to jack up my Lincoln LS V8, so I can change the skirt that attaches to the frame & under the rear bumper.

    My wife was in a spinout on the freeway near Dallas. The car in the far right lane moved to the center of three lanes while she was moving from the left lane to the same center lane. She never saw the slower car moving to the center while she checked her blind spot. She turned her head to the front just in time to see she was going to hit the back of the other car. She swerved hard left to avoid the much slower car and succeeded in doing so, but she over-corrected and turned the wheel hard right and created the spin that took her across three lanes and into the grassy swale between the feeder road and the main lanes. She should have flipped her car since she was moving at better than 65 mph. The car, even though she over-corrected the second time, probably saved her from flipping several times. Glad she wasn't driving the Expedition. I think the car saved her life.

    Long story short-er? The dealer that made all her repairs never noticed the grass hanging under her rear bumper and the subsequent ripped straps that hold this "skirt" to the frame. I told them that 3 weeks was long enough for them to notice this and fix it, "Ship the thing to me and I'll put the damn thing on." They had over 3 weeks and made several thousand dollars repairing/rebuilding the front of the car... radiator...fog lamps, etc.

    I do all my car work alone, so jack stands in the right places will help a lot...

    Thanks for your time,
    Sincerely,

    Frustrated but safe. PTRodriguez
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    jeffdickjeffdick Member Posts: 2
    i changed all my plugs and 2 coils it was not that hard and saved me a ton of cash.these coils go out alot..ive never worked on a car and finished in maybe 3 hours..
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    That's cool, the Lincoln dealer really sticks some people on that job.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    jeffdickjeffdick Member Posts: 2
    fuel filter is behind front wheel driver side...take off plastic skirt its right there
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    paul167paul167 Member Posts: 1
    I've replaced my gaskets and plugs as well, but have one long bolt left over and for the life of me I cant figure out where it goes. Any ideas?
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    stevecambridgestevecambridge Member Posts: 1
    Try the new E3 Spark plugs. They fire when normal plugs just wont. They come with a preset gap..(Dont change). You can get them at any recognized auto parts dealers.
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    brucelincbrucelinc Member Posts: 815
    I sold my 2000 LS to a co-worker about 6 months ago. This morning, mentioned that the moonroof sometimes fails to close. It always opens fine but whether in tilt or full open position, it doesn't always close unless he "helps" it by pulling it with his hand.

    I tried it myself and it worked perfectly and sounded normal whether opening or closing. Apparently the problem comes and goes. When it works, it works fine. When it doesn't, it is though the battery is dead - according to the owner. He doesn't expect me to take any responsibility for this but he simply asked for my opinion and advice. Has anyone else had this issue? Any lubrication or maintenance needed on the track or mechanisms?
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