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But it's a good point. I wonder what his temp gauge is reading and if that reading has changed from "normal".
so you're thinking (presuming coolant isn't low) that your automatic climate control is sort of stuck into thinking the car is already warm inside?
check your relay and your fuses for the heating too could be somthing simple.and your coolant level.
yep, it was fried, but not noticeable with the naked eye. anyway, after 5 months of 'sweating' the daily commute, it's fixed! hallelujah, praise God! we live in w. tx. and it's hotter than the hinges down this way... anyway, i just came over from the dakota board, and when i saw this thread (and read it carefully), i got the gumption to go out and fix the stinkin' thing. thanks for the thread! now i've gotta find a black hood and new windshield for it since we left for the ranch last weekend, left the car out and baseball size hail got it (plus the roof on the house). man, that hailstorm was nasty!
jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
Thanks
It was not running hot at all until I got the compressor fixed then it ran hot the same day. I am not running the AC right now. But the AC does not seem to be as cold as it should either. Any help will be very much appreciated. I see this to be a very good and helpful forum. Thanks in advance.
paulb
Can anyone help me locate the low side AC port on a 2001 LS V8?
Thanks!
i've been told there's a connector underneath the electric cooling fan setup that could be the culprit. there's a center pin that you can apparently read with a simple multimeter. if it's got juice you're okay, if not, then it's a bad board. does that sound correct to anybody here?
jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
Any help would be appreciated.
cold on drivers side hot on passengers side.
well its done now! all hot all the time with error code 19 47.
i found on internet that this means Evaporator Discharge Temperature Sensor circuit is bad.
Any ideas if this is true and if its hard or expensive to fix?
ANY info would be appreciated. I live in FLA and cant take this heat!!! but cant afford to fix one thing and have it be something else.
Thanks!!!!
my 2000 dak quad cab, which i've documented since new on edmunds, has 165k on it, with a lot of heavy abuse miles (offroad in the dust and lots of heavy towing) in the oilfields of west texas. its check engine light came on at 8k miles, has been on ever since, but nothing's really ever ever failed on the truck - runs great all the time. amazing difference in the two vehicles, and the dodge cost about 1/2 of the lincoln's $45k. both bought new. both maintained extremely well. go figger...
jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
it's not uncommon for somebody in my business - oil and gas fieldwork - to drive several hundred miles per day, seven days a week, with no vacations for years at a time. then, NO work for many months to several years afterwards. it's not nearly as glamorous as most of the nutty media and even crazier politicians would have you believe. they only look at all the money we make when we're working, but they disappear when we're in a bust cycle. at the time my dak's engine light came on i was driving over 150 miles per day, 7 days a week - just commuting. try that out sometime. after consulting with my friends on this site (the dakota board), i figured out the problem with 'bpeebles' 'bookitty' and others' expert advice, and i haven't looked back.
so, no worries mate...
jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
I'm seeking some advice. I have a 2000LS in which the heater stopped working. AC works fine. the blower works fine, but when I adjust the temperature hotter it still blows cool air. The car has been warmed up. I took it to my local mechanic who I trust however he says the door on the heater is not opening and it will cost $700 just to get to the heater and figure out whats wrong. My question is this a problem that a local ford dealer or lincoln dealer can handle better and cheaper or will it be a wash either way. Thanks.
it is posted on this site how to do the test.
i would try that out....at least its free!
i cant remember exactly so i would double check but i think it was to
push the panel button then quickly hit the off and auto buttons.
you can hear it testing everything
the first time i did it it gave code 1987 but i did it two more times it started working again fine.
it said 88degrees - ext -188 degrees
may be worth a try.
Thanks for the info, do you know the part number or correct name for this water diverter valve. I tried looking this part up on fordpart.com and no luck.
bigyunk
Common problem on these cars.
Recheck the connections and fuses including the ones under the hood.
Thanks Orlando
that said, i've got a 2000 dodge dakota quad cab, also ordered new that's had mainly electronic, but eerily similar problems (that i fixed cheaply) to the LS. my acura legend had even worse (but again, similar) problems with it. our volvo turbo wagons - same things. all bought new, all had synthetics (and top filters) used at 3k-5k intervals.
1989 volvo 765 (165k to date) = overdrive module quit / a-c unit problems / 2 window relay / fouled plugs (once) / otherwise great / used mid-grade fuel
1992 volvo 745 (163k to date) = o/d quit / a-c unit relays/module issues / 1 window + sunroof issues fixed / o/d quit again (harness replaced) / spark plug fouling / premium fuel
1995 acura legend (123k-sold) = tranny hard shifting issue fixed under warranty / a-c just 'quit' replaced compressor / plug wire issue + ecm replaced / stereo speaker shorted
2000 dakota (170k to date) = ecm quit, replaced / a-c has a mind of its own / headlight low beam issue in steering column, fixed once, back again now (wiring) / weird tranny shfiting problem (intermittent) never fixed, bad when hot outside / uses reg. unleaded
2004 lincoln LS (51k to date) = tranny shifted weird (fixed under warranty) / overheated, then coils 'oily' + plugs fouling / a-c ran only hot, then hot one side, cold other, then only cold, fixed with relay under radiator area / uses premium fuel
1989 dodge raider 4x4 (134k to date, using more and more now) = replaced water pump + plugs and wires. rodded the radiator once. only unfixed problem to date is a slight vacuum leak causing some shaking at idle. runs donkey piss fuel. compare this (extreme hard usage) vehicle to all of the above. draw your own conclusions.
you should also be looking for a good, local mechanic, hopefully related to you. all of the 'shop' mechanics kill you on the complicated vehicles. simple is good...
jack b :-) in midland, tx usa