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Lincoln LS Climate Control

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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well in that case the engine would be running abnormally cold and in a very cold climate I would think. Even completely open, he should get SOME heat. Modern engines run pretty warm even with full-open stats, don't they?

    But it's a good point. I wonder what his temp gauge is reading and if that reading has changed from "normal".
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    diamonddandiamonddan Member Posts: 3
    The temp guage on the dash comes up halfway, just as it does in warm weather. If it was a thermostat, wouldn't I expect the temp guage to read much cooler?
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's what I would think, yes.

    so you're thinking (presuming coolant isn't low) that your automatic climate control is sort of stuck into thinking the car is already warm inside?
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    In that case it does sound like either the heater core (or hoses) or the HVAC controller.
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    BosephisBosephis Member Posts: 4
    That heating /cooling problem on the lincoln ls aint hard to fix. its just most people dont understand the system.there easier to fix if you know what and how to do it.
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    BosephisBosephis Member Posts: 4
    i just bought a 2000 model wasnt heating at all just cold air .well some one tried the thermostat and it done no good long story short these heating systems aint hard to understand there is a relay that opperates to pumps to the heating system its under the hood start buy checking it first check your fuses if there good check the the two pumps under the hood they are mounted on the right side of the fan shroud they cant hardly be seen because of the hose and the round a/c tank.them pump will somtimes freeze up take a test light check the power too the motors if you have power you can take the motors out and bench test them there are several hoses that run in and out of these two pumps make sure you mark them. so you dont get them mixed up but after you bench test them if the motrs dont make any sound the your problem is there.and make sure you have plenty of coolant in the system.sometimes if your too low on coolant they will not blow heat.dont get discouraged with the heating problem these seem to be good cars you just need to look the whole sytem over and understand how it all works. and if you can do that you will soon fix the problem.and YOU DO NOT HALF TO TAKE IT TO A GARAGE.
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    BosephisBosephis Member Posts: 4
    check the dual coolant pump and the auxalry pumps they will freeze up or stick mine were bad trip to te scrap yard 20 dollars later and 2hrs or so i have heat.

    check your relay and your fuses for the heating too could be somthing simple.and your coolant level.
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    motormama1motormama1 Member Posts: 2
    Thank You so much for the info on the heating system on the Lincoln LS. I have had the system flushed and new coolant added, so if the problem was the coolant I should find out soon. I do have heat now at 90 degrees, and cold air at 60 degrees on the manual override. Unfortunately it turned off warm (55-60) degrees and the auto doesn't want to blow heat because it is too warm outside. Temps are supposed to drop next week, so I should find out for sure if trouble is fixed. I will deffintely check relay and fuses if i still have a problem. Thanks Again!
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    Sammyb0330Sammyb0330 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Lincoln LS, and recently my a/c & heat aren't woking. My blower motor and fuses/relays are all working, but when i click my climate control panel, nothing happens. Is there anything you can tell me about this?
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    bjsullybjsully Member Posts: 1
    I know the fuse panel is in the trunk, but i do not have an owners manual, so i need to know what fuse controls which circuit, help?
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    our '04 LS was just blowing unholy hot air after a brief overheating episode in mid-december, in which i replaced that multiple piece thermostat thingamajiggy (what a p.o.s.). fixed the overheating, but no effect on the a/c until i got a magnifying glass after the little tinker-toy 10 amp fuse under the hood. note: i'd been looking at the one by the spare tire, but never had looked at the (obvious) box under the hood. doh!

    yep, it was fried, but not noticeable with the naked eye. anyway, after 5 months of 'sweating' the daily commute, it's fixed! hallelujah, praise God! we live in w. tx. and it's hotter than the hinges down this way... anyway, i just came over from the dakota board, and when i saw this thread (and read it carefully), i got the gumption to go out and fix the stinkin' thing. thanks for the thread! now i've gotta find a black hood and new windshield for it since we left for the ranch last weekend, left the car out and baseball size hail got it (plus the roof on the house). man, that hailstorm was nasty!
    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    djteddybeardjteddybear Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys and Girls I need some help. My 2000 Lincoln Ls a/C and heat control panel will not come on and will not lit up at night when I use my head lights or instument panel lights. any thoughts or advice
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    paulb49paulb49 Member Posts: 3
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    paulb49paulb49 Member Posts: 3
    I am having problems with my Heat and AC. The heater will not blow any heat at all and just before it stopped I would hear a loud roaring noise while the car was running. Then soon after there was no heat. And the AC compressor will not come on. Any help will be appreciated.

    Thanks
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Hey Paul - I think that may be the HVAC controller instead of a compressor problem since it affects both the heat and A/C.
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    samsgrampasamsgrampa Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone have a picture of where the A/C low pressure port is? It's starting to get hot outside. Thanks.
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    samsgrampasamsgrampa Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone have a picture of where the A/C low pressure port is on my 2003 Lincoln LS 6 cyl? It's starting to get hot outside. Thanks.
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    paulb49paulb49 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone tell me what I need to check and where. My compressor was not coming on, got that fixed ( a wiring problem) now when I drive the car with the AC on it runs hot. But I notice that when I turn on the AC the cooling remains at the same speed. Does it suppose to run at a faster speed when the AC comes on?
    It was not running hot at all until I got the compressor fixed then it ran hot the same day. I am not running the AC right now. But the AC does not seem to be as cold as it should either. Any help will be very much appreciated. I see this to be a very good and helpful forum. Thanks in advance.

    paulb
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    scott130scott130 Member Posts: 1
    Just took the drivers side tire off on a 2001 LS V8 and no black rubber flap.

    Can anyone help me locate the low side AC port on a 2001 LS V8?

    Thanks!
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    temps are hitting 100, and now the a/c is back to 'waffling.' it will run hot out - either - one side - or - the other. after a few days it will run normally. then just hot. it's got to be a sensor, connection or a computer somewhere that's misfiring somehow, though it will run normally (cold) for several days running.
    i've been told there's a connector underneath the electric cooling fan setup that could be the culprit. there's a center pin that you can apparently read with a simple multimeter. if it's got juice you're okay, if not, then it's a bad board. does that sound correct to anybody here?
    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    bcasey30bcasey30 Member Posts: 2
    You need to jack up the drivers side of the car. remove the plastic cover that is covering the compressor.It is next to the oil pan on the engine. The low side port is on the compressor.
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    bcasey30bcasey30 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Lincoln LS with an ac issue. When i turn the ac on the clutch does not engage.I bought one of those refrigerant refill kits with a gauge and it says that the charge is good. could this be accurate if the charge is low? How would I engage the clutch to add refrigerant?

    Any help would be appreciated.
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    rjlipscombrjlipscomb Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me how to remove the electrical plug at the DCCV. It seems that the red tab pulls out and then the plug should disconnect. But it doesn't seem to want to do that?
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    rjlipscombrjlipscomb Member Posts: 2
    Got it! What a royal pain in the [non-permissible content removed]! Apparently, from I can guess, the red clip is a lock. Push it out (can use a screw driver from underneath). Then push in on the black tab that was under the red clip and gently pull the plug out. You squeeze that black tab into the plug.
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    beardedyouthbeardedyouth Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me out? The A/C on my 2000 LS V8 will periodically stop blowing air. When this happens, the message center beeps and says that the passenger door is open. I turn off the air, wait a while and eventually it will start working again. Is this a sensor or fuse starting to go out? PLease help.
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    rustygirlrustygirl Member Posts: 2
    i recieved error code 19 47 for my ac which has been having the same problem as everyone else....runs cold on 60 degrees hot on anything else.
    cold on drivers side hot on passengers side.
    well its done now! all hot all the time with error code 19 47.
    i found on internet that this means Evaporator Discharge Temperature Sensor circuit is bad.
    Any ideas if this is true and if its hard or expensive to fix?
    ANY info would be appreciated. I live in FLA and cant take this heat!!! but cant afford to fix one thing and have it be something else.
    Thanks!!!!
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    ours has started working normally again w/ 50k on it now. the a/c is working normally that is. since we put the car up for summer, the battery died. replaced it and now it won't run properly in the second overdrive gear (5th). we run it in 4th to keep the revs above 2k so it won't shake going down the road. i'm guessing one (or more) of the cops (coil on plugs) is getting 'oily.' the check engine light, once flashing, and then just on steadily for a few months, has now gone out completely.
    my 2000 dak quad cab, which i've documented since new on edmunds, has 165k on it, with a lot of heavy abuse miles (offroad in the dust and lots of heavy towing) in the oilfields of west texas. its check engine light came on at 8k miles, has been on ever since, but nothing's really ever ever failed on the truck - runs great all the time. amazing difference in the two vehicles, and the dodge cost about 1/2 of the lincoln's $45k. both bought new. both maintained extremely well. go figger...
    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Wow. You've driven a truck for 157,000 miles with a check engine light on? Couldn't the dealer have fixed it under warrenty? :confuse:
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    yes i have driven it hard (no time for dealer/warranty work though), and i've done the same thing on my other dakota. it's a common problem to them, as something as simple as an open gas cap will trigger it. which was what caused mine, anyway.
    it's not uncommon for somebody in my business - oil and gas fieldwork - to drive several hundred miles per day, seven days a week, with no vacations for years at a time. then, NO work for many months to several years afterwards. it's not nearly as glamorous as most of the nutty media and even crazier politicians would have you believe. they only look at all the money we make when we're working, but they disappear when we're in a bust cycle. at the time my dak's engine light came on i was driving over 150 miles per day, 7 days a week - just commuting. try that out sometime. after consulting with my friends on this site (the dakota board), i figured out the problem with 'bpeebles' 'bookitty' and others' expert advice, and i haven't looked back.
    so, no worries mate...

    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    acepkracepkr Member Posts: 4
    Hello Everyone,

    I'm seeking some advice. I have a 2000LS in which the heater stopped working. AC works fine. the blower works fine, but when I adjust the temperature hotter it still blows cool air. The car has been warmed up. I took it to my local mechanic who I trust however he says the door on the heater is not opening and it will cost $700 just to get to the heater and figure out whats wrong. My question is this a problem that a local ford dealer or lincoln dealer can handle better and cheaper or will it be a wash either way. Thanks.
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    It could be the blend door and they are expensive to fix. I'd get another opinion and quote from a Lincoln dealer who has seen these before. It could also be the controller.
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    rustygirlrustygirl Member Posts: 2
    i did a self diagnostics (reset) test and you can hear all the doors adjusting opening and closing. after i did this a few times the air/heat started working properly again.
    it is posted on this site how to do the test.
    i would try that out....at least its free!
    i cant remember exactly so i would double check but i think it was to
    push the panel button then quickly hit the off and auto buttons.
    you can hear it testing everything
    the first time i did it it gave code 1987 but i did it two more times it started working again fine.

    it said 88degrees - ext -188 degrees
    may be worth a try.
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    mercedes_docmercedes_doc Member Posts: 1
    The DCCV - Dual Climate Control Valve on your car is bad. You will have four heater hoses running to it. Take them off and clamp them, if your ac is restored than you know for sure this valve is bad. Its under the hood on the passenger side of the car. Can't miss it.
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    bauxbaux Member Posts: 8
    when i turn rear defront buttton on and even crank the air speed nothing comes out the back vents, the back wondow stays foggy everytime any ideas?
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Rear defrost heats the glass via the metal wires embedded in the rear window glass. There is no hot air involved.
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    bigyunkbigyunk Member Posts: 2
    My 04 LSE only blow out hot even at 60 degree selected. It started out with the passenger side blowing out cold air and then the drivers side blowing out hot air for a day or two then only hot air. The climate control seat with just fine.
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    jokersmithjokersmith Member Posts: 12
    MY '05 was doing the same thing, the temp would never change. I took it to the dealer and it ended up being a water diverter valve that had gone bad. Once it was replaced it worked fine, luckily I was still under warranty. With the amount of issues I have had with this car I am seriously thinking of getting the extended warranty from the dealer for $1200 for an additional 3 years of coverage.
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    bigyunkbigyunk Member Posts: 2
    Hey Jokersmith
    Thanks for the info, do you know the part number or correct name for this water diverter valve. I tried looking this part up on fordpart.com and no luck.

    bigyunk
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    Are you guys talking about the DCCV (dual climate control valve)?
    Common problem on these cars.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    jennacitino13jennacitino13 Member Posts: 1
    Okay so i got a NEW deck for my 2000 lincoln LS and i put it in but then realized that i didnt have the right wiring harness for my car to have the deck in and still have my heat so i had to take my NEW deck out and put the deck that my car came with back in and then i hooked the heat back up and everything and the heat or air conditioner just will not work and my friend checked all my fuses and none of them were blown and it is friggen snowing out and i need my heatt soo yeah palease help me someone...
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    akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    You can start by buying some punctuation marks and capital letters.......it's extremely hard to read.

    Recheck the connections and fuses including the ones under the hood.
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    lando45lando45 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, no heat,2000 lincoln LS, Question, said to press the "panel button" which button is that,, would like to try the self diagnostics (reset) test.
    Thanks Orlando
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    samasneadsamasnead Member Posts: 3
    I have had my 2004 Lincoln LS since Apr 2009. Have had to replace 2 window motors, blend door actuator for the heat/cool system, all coil packs, spark plugs and both catalytic converters. Car has 66,000 miles on it. Question is, will this have to be done again in the near future or is this just a one time thing? Have spent approx $2500 in just under 2 months which includes the warrantied converters.
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    we too have a 2004 LS (v8), and we've had some niggling things that we had fixed under warranty, and we've also had some similar issues (as yours) after warranty - we're at 51k now, and we bought it new. i'd be curious to know who is diagnosing your problems, as it looks like a dealer to me. they are extremely heavy-handed on their diagnoses, as they're all teetering on the edge of the abyss these days. i did our coil packs and plugss, replaced a window regulator and have had the weird a/c problems, which turned out to be yet another electrical problem (was told it was a blend door issue too) that was fixed down by the radiator. all of this cost about $600 and a few hours of my time. i'm starting to believe by all of these similar posts that a database needs to be put together with everybody's 'fix' results posted.
    that said, i've got a 2000 dodge dakota quad cab, also ordered new that's had mainly electronic, but eerily similar problems (that i fixed cheaply) to the LS. my acura legend had even worse (but again, similar) problems with it. our volvo turbo wagons - same things. all bought new, all had synthetics (and top filters) used at 3k-5k intervals.
    1989 volvo 765 (165k to date) = overdrive module quit / a-c unit problems / 2 window relay / fouled plugs (once) / otherwise great / used mid-grade fuel
    1992 volvo 745 (163k to date) = o/d quit / a-c unit relays/module issues / 1 window + sunroof issues fixed / o/d quit again (harness replaced) / spark plug fouling / premium fuel
    1995 acura legend (123k-sold) = tranny hard shifting issue fixed under warranty / a-c just 'quit' replaced compressor / plug wire issue + ecm replaced / stereo speaker shorted
    2000 dakota (170k to date) = ecm quit, replaced / a-c has a mind of its own / headlight low beam issue in steering column, fixed once, back again now (wiring) / weird tranny shfiting problem (intermittent) never fixed, bad when hot outside / uses reg. unleaded
    2004 lincoln LS (51k to date) = tranny shifted weird (fixed under warranty) / overheated, then coils 'oily' + plugs fouling / a-c ran only hot, then hot one side, cold other, then only cold, fixed with relay under radiator area / uses premium fuel

    1989 dodge raider 4x4 (134k to date, using more and more now) = replaced water pump + plugs and wires. rodded the radiator once. only unfixed problem to date is a slight vacuum leak causing some shaking at idle. runs donkey piss fuel. compare this (extreme hard usage) vehicle to all of the above. draw your own conclusions.

    you should also be looking for a good, local mechanic, hopefully related to you. all of the 'shop' mechanics kill you on the complicated vehicles. simple is good...
    jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    If the COPS ever start going again, and the car is misfiring, don't wait too long to get it fixed. The raw gas going through the cylinders is probably what fried your catalytic converters.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    8otter268otter26 Member Posts: 1
    The dual climate control on my '05 LS has stopped working; it throws hot air when it should be pumping cool air. Funny thing is this started immediately after I had a dealer replace the A/C filter. Dealer says it's a defective DCCV and it's a coincidence. I'm not so sure. I'd like to hear what others think.
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    themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    our '04 had a similar problem after a 'minor' overheating incident about 18 months ago. all heat, then one side heat / one cold, then NO heat except seat heaters, but icy cold a/c. we 've been told it was a 'bubble' in the coolant, bad dccv, bad 'other' sensor underneath the radiator, etc. and the last two were $700 quotes. since we're in a pretty hot climate here in w. tx. we just don't drive it when the temp's below freezing, which is rare anyway. car's been good for the entire 51-52k we've put on it since new, getting excellent mpg along with the comfort, so we can live with it for now. when we replace the coolant in a coupla months, we'll see if it's the bubble or not. then i'll work on the sensor(s) and connectors as i get around to them. car also had a minor hard shifting tranny problem when fairly new, fixed under warranty, and it also has the oily coil on plug problem from sitting too long last summer. other than that, it's a jewel... jack b :-) in midland, tx usa
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    toomanyfumestoomanyfumes Member Posts: 1,019
    If by A/C filter you mean cabin filter, thats up by the windshield wipers under the hood, changing that shouldn't affect the DCCV.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
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    dc904dc904 Member Posts: 1
    What a coincidence that was?? I mean it could happen, but my getting screwed meter just went up...lol Ohh well sorry to hear that
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    totaljetttotaljett Member Posts: 26
    Went to my local shop to recharge my ac. They checked the pressure and it was empty of freon. Three freon cans later, it continued to blow hot air. The clutch and compressor were working fine but no cold air. The mechanice came to the conclusion the compressor is working but enough to produce cold air. They recommended a new compressor but with the LS it's not that simple. The system cannot be flushed so you must purchase new compressor, dryer and condenser. If not, warranty of the new item will be void if used with the older components. I'm gonna get a second opinion from the dealer to confirm the functioning status of compressor. Maybe they shop missed something. Anyway, has anyone heard of a LS owner only changing a compressor with success. I'm told you only maintsin warranty of each item if you purchase all new items. Supposedly a new compressor could damaged if trash is in the old condenser. What's your thought or suggestion on all I've said.
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