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Comments
There is a speedometer gear you can change out. It is based on your tire size and your differential gearing. Likely you have 3.73 gearing in your differential. There are several speedometer gear charts/applications on the web that will tell you what you need. Generally, with a 1" change, it won't be a big deal as far as accuracy.
http://www.teraflex.biz/tech/faq/speedometer-gear-chart/
I'm not sure what the stock tooth count is for a 3.73-geared TJ. Your invoice/build sheet will tell your stock gearing (assuming it hasn't been changed).
As a comparison, I have an SE geared at 4.10 stock. I was on 30's and the speedo was off (geared for 28" tires). I regeared to 4.88 and added 33's. My speedo gear is actually more accurate than it was with the 30's.
-Paul
When you say "regeared", do you mean just changing out the speedometer gear? Or is there some way to re-calibrate the speedometer to meet the demand of the bigger tires?
By the way, where can I purchase a speedometer gear?
Another regear can take place in the speedometer gearing attached to the transfer case. THAT regearing will not affect power. All that does is make your speedometer reflect correct speed. It works in conjunction with your differential gearing and tire size to ensure proper speed and odometer readings.
Usually you can get speedometer gears from the dealer from $15 to 30, depending on the number of teeth you need for your tire/gear setup. Given that you only have 31's on there right now, the effects of the larger tire size on power and speedometer accuracy would be minimal. If you have a handheld GPS, drive with it and see how your speed is on the GPS vs the speedo. Save the $$ if you can.
Just a note, Rubicons use a different speedometer sensor and it is NOT a gear. It is electronically set and a bit more complicated to do.
Here is a writeup for changing the speedometer gear yourself. It is VERY easy.
http://www.4x4xplor.com/speedo.html
-Paul
-Paul
Anyhow, they changed the damper at no charge do to the warranty but charged me $87 for rotate and balance.
My boss called a local used Jeep dealer who explained the problem. Chrysler changed out the steering system and I need to install the Rugged Ridge Steering on it. He sounded very convincing. The only problem is that parts and labor will be $330.
I've been writing to various consumer organizations in hopes that I can start the ball rolling for a class action suit. Chrystler is denying the fact that they are producing many faulty Jeeps that can one day result in a death. I want to do something before that day comes.
I have a 97 TJ and I've never had DW, though I've had some tire/wheel setups that were out of balance or round. That combo got relegated to the spare carrier. Other than that, even lifted 3" with 33's, I'm doing okay with NO death wobble.
I have aftermarket swaybar disconnects, aftermarket trackbar (both JKS), and I have a Grand Cherokee (ZJ) tie rod with new ends. Even with all that change, everything is still running great. And I have the stock steering stabilizer on (which is more of a bandaid/mask than anything).
The steering setup for a Jeep has always been a questionable design and a LOT will depend on the draglink and trackbar being parallel. If they are parallel, more than likely it is an issue with one of the joints in the setup (tie rods, track bar ends, drag link connection, or even possibly bad ball joints on the steering knuckles (which I would NOT suspect on a 2006).
-Paul
It hasn't done the DW since Chrysler changed out the damper but as you said, that is merely a temporary 'fix'. After the last time is did the wobble I have become a bit frightened of it. I have yet to read where someone has had an accident during the DW and I sure don't want to be the first.
My friend also has a '97 with a 3" body lift kit and larger tires. He reports that he never had the problem and he even takes his off road quite a bit.
Instead of going with a factory setup, you MAY want to consider some aftermarket steering setups. Currie makes an EXCELLENT one and may be worth doing. I'm a firm believer that the auto companies have great designs, but the aftermarket improves on them even more.
3" body lift? UGH. A body lift will not really alter the steering geometry a bit other than the steering shaft to the steering box. I'd suggest a 2" budget boost and 1" body lift. It'll look a lot better (smaller gaps between frame and tub) and IMO be safer than the 3" body lift.
-Paul
There are vendors out there like Currie.
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/currectlync.aspx?id=913
It is an upgraded tie rod and drag ling setup.
There is also an option called HiSteer by a company called ORO. But this is mainly for offroaders to move the tie rod assembly up higher to avoid rocks and such.
The Currie setup is supposed to be pretty good.
That said, IF the problem lies with the trackbar setup and being loose at the axle end, the Currie setup won't fix this.
Here is a picture of the steering components identified clearly. THOSE are the components you want to look at to resolve the death wobble. SOMETHING is loose somewhere, you have bad tires, or some bushings are worn out. While you shouldn't expect it on a newer TJ, it can happen.
You can see that the trackbar and drag link are pretty much parallel in the pic above. THAT is key for death wobble prevention. If they aren't fairly parallel, you will have problems. (BTW, those sway bar links are aftermarket. Stock will not look like that).
Hope that helps some. I've diagnosed a few loose spots on people's Jeeps and solved the cases I've come across, but it is a LOT harder over the net.
-Paul
1- I don't see the damper on your picture, therefore I assume your steering is set up different than mine. Correct?
2- If I do the checking for loose nuts, tec how will I know that I'm not tightening something that may be an adjustment?
You see, I really don't have the money to take this in for others to work on it. I suppose I will need to eventually though because it's beyond me.
My steering setup is stock with the exception of aftermarket swaybar disconnects (like those shown in the pic), aftermarket track bar (made by JKS), and a tie rod for a Grand Cherokee (since it is thicker and stronger). Geometries are 100% the same though.
For checking the loose nuts, have somebody sit behind the wheel. Start the Jeep. Have them slowly steer back and forth at your command.
1. Check the joints for the trackbar (frame and lower passenger axle). If there is any movement, they need to be tightened down.
2. Check the tierod ends. If the do anything OTHER than rotate the bar a tiny bit (ie there appears to be play), tighten em down.
3. Check the drag link ends. If it is loose at the steering box, tighten as best you can.
4. If you can jack up your front a bit so wheels are off the ground, do that. Then grab the top and bottom of the tire and see if you can 'rock' the wheel back and forth. It may have a tiny bit of play, and that is normal. If it seems excessive, your ball joints may be toast.
5. While it is jacked up, grab one end of the axle and see if you can 'rock' it forward and back. If you can move it excessively, your control arm bushings may be worn and may need replacement.
Most likely, you'll find one of those to be the case.
As for tightening down, a torque wrench is a GREAT investment and you can find them at harbor freight fairly inexpensively. You can also pick up a Haynes manual from places like Autozone for about 20.00. I'm not mechanically inclined when I started, but now have no problems working on my Jeep at all.
-Paul
-Paul
Anyhow, I want to learn as much as I can about this newer one. I sent off for a repair manual but it only goes up to 2003. I didn't think they had changed much up to '06 so I ordered it.
Before I go on, I want to explain that I'm merely an old woman (58) who tries to do my own wrenching as much as possible. In my younger years it was more fun than anything else but these days with the prices repair shops charge and the awful rip-offs, I find I am in 'need' to do my own work when I can. I hope this fact (that I'm a woman) doesn't turn you off on helping me out.
Later on I want to learn how to make my own cold air induction system hoping to gain a little more horsepower and maybe save a tad on gas useage.
I do want to tell you that I appreciate your offer. Thank you!
my email is skimblzbvs at yahoo dot com. That's the email I use for this stuff. If you got the haynes manual, I think that is the right one. I have the factory service manual for your year as well, but those kinds of repairs are probably more than you need to worry about. I can help ya as much as possible. When you contact me, I have a few things you can try.
-Paul
LOL
I'm hoping the manual will be here by tomorrow. I'll let you know. Thank you for your email address. I'll send you an email so you have mine as well.
Jim
Consider:
1. Control arm bushings - if they are worn, you may get play in the axle.
2. Tie rod ends - ensure greased, intact, and no lateral movement (may have some rotation due to the joint type).
3. Track bar - check BOTH ends (frame and axle)
4. CV joints - jack tire up and check for motion top to bottom /\ kinda thing.
5. Draglink/tie rod. make sure that connection is secure as well.
If the problem has cropped up, you should also ensure your tires are properly balanced and have even wear.
IF you replace the steering stabilizer/dampener, I'd suggest at least getting a good aftermarket one, like Old Man Emu or something. That stock unit is so so. That will be my next acquisition.
As an FYI, I'm on 33" tires with NO death wobble at all. Aftermarket track bar (JKS), and a Grand Cherokee tie rod (stronger). I did swap out my control arms back in August to newer, unbent ones. I did notice my trackbar loose at one point, but the only issue I had from it was loose/sloppy steering.
If you look at this pic, you can see the primary components for the front suspension. Any of those points being loose can create havoc.
-Paul
I have a 98 Jeep and i think I might have it. It wobbles violently every once in a while when going 40-50 mph until I reduce speed to about 20mph. There is no indication when it is going to happen.
Also, I just bought rims off an '08 Jeep X Unlimited and I want to make sure that the bolt pattern on the new jeeps are 5 x 5. I want to get the right wheel adapters to make them fit on my '98.
thanks
Any help would be appreciated
-Tom
And it sounds like you have Death Wobble too. I'd fix THAT before changing your wheel configuration.
-Paul
It's an uncontrollable shaking of the whole vehicle which originates from the front end.
You are unable to stop the vehicle from changing lanes and you'll invariably end up in the median or the ditch (or even the E.R. :surprise: ).
It's scary, your life flashes before your eyes, and it carries a very real threat of an accident, hence the term 'death wobble'.
It's not just a bad vibration or shake, and accelerating, braking, or decelerating won't make it go away.
Thankfully it's also very rare, though it happens enough to be a recognized phenomenon, and most commonly occurs in Wranglers and Dodge Rams.
If you were to experience it or observe it happen to another vehicle I doubt you'd ever forget it!
but i would spend the 300 dollars and replace the front bearings a front stabilizer shock wont help you it is for off road and to keep the stering from breaking your arm when you put the front tire in a bind or hit something.
-Paul
Here's a pic of my TJ with just a 3" lift and 1" BL running stock 30's. Imagine a bigger lift with yours.
The lift really isn't going to help you a whole lot if you are keeping the same size tires. Your low point will still be the axles. Offroad, you'll still get good articulation with a decent 4-6" lift, but again, your tires will still come in to play.
However, if you want to go to 33's you'd be MUCH better off. My wheel is an 8: wheel, but I now have 33x12.5" Mud Terrains on it. A skinny wheel is not necessarily bad for offroad. It provides a good lip for the wider tire. Here's how mine is now.
Now keep in mind, if you air down your tires for offroad, you don't want to air down TOO much or you'll lose the bead. Airing down is good for better traction, AND it will help keep branches, sharp rocks, etc from puncturing a piece of rubber at full inflation. You DO lose some height doing this, but the traction gain is well worth it.
Hope that helps some.
-Paul
www.4x4groupbuy.com
www.4x4rockshop.com
www.northridge4x4.com
www.redrock4x4.com
Pretty much any reputable online 4x4 shop will have em. Go with a decent maker like Advanced Adapters.
You will likely also need to get at LEAST adjustable rear upper control arms to rotate the rear pinion up a bit bit to more appropriately line up the angle with the driveshaft. There are lots of writeups online about SYE (slip yoke eliminator) setups.
-Paul
wheels 15x8 with 3.68 backspacing
tires 265/75R15
Am I OK here?
They should fit just fine, but may stick out a bit more than you want them to. It will be noisier as less tire will be muffled by the fender, and I guarantee you will be kicking up more water/dirt/grime on the highway...
Not advising against it, just advising on what you can possibly expect.
-Paul
Less backspacing = higher number.
If you go with something about 3.75-4" you should be good, even if you go up in tire size a bit. 3.68 just seems a bit odd to me.
Here's 4.25" of backspacing with 33x12.5" tires.
3.68 would stick out about a half inch more, but keep in mind my tires are 12.5" wide (wheels are only 8" wide).
-Paul
Thanks for the help!
-Paul
30/31's will fit the stock tire carrier w/o issue. 32's and 33's may be a problem width/height wise if you are on stock wheels. An aftermarket tire carrier would likely be your safest bet in protecting your tailgate.
-Paul