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Comments
-Wrangler MT/R w/ Kevlar
-Wrangler DuraTrac
or should i go with some BF Goodwrichs?
and can i put 33" tires on my jeep. I have a 2" lift on it now and i have 32" tires, but can i add that extra inch and not rub?
As for brand, go with what YOU feel comfortable with that is in your budget. I run TrXuS personally and they rarely get me stuck. My transmission skid gets me stuck more than any lack of grip from the tires.
If you want brands, take a look at the BFG's, Cooper MT's, and Firestone MT's...
-Paul
I'm looking for a good 1-3" body lift or maybe a higher suspension lift.
Any suggestions?(and i have a 6 speed)
Then another thing is im tring to sell the tires im taking off.
I have 5 Sport King A/T's with only 4,000 miles on them.
Im trying to sell them on craigs list,
and dont want to mess with ebay b/c of shipping.
Any ideas on how i can sell these?
Combine THAT with a simple little 2" budget boost. A budget boost (BB) is basically coil spacers that fit on TOP of your springs. They usually require a bit longer shocks, but the ride is much like stock. That is the cheapest way to do it. You CAN go with a nice suspension lift from Old Man Emu (OME), Rubicon Express, or any other quality ones out there. You'll generally pay more for this route, but it often provides a great ride and stronger components for your Jeep.
Personally, I did the 1.25" Body lift with a 2.75-3" suspension lift to give me about 4.25" total lift. I run 33x12.5x15 mud terrain tires too.
-Paul
Im going to replace my 2" spacer with a 3" spacer.
I just dont want to mess w/ a body lift since i have a 6 speed and im worried about the looks of a body lift.
Anyways, Some people hace said it is optional to change the shocks and others have said it is highly recomended.
can i keep these on, or should i switch them out?
If i need to change them what should i go with?
Personally, I run Old Man Emu shocks and LOVE em.
My TJ has a 1" BL, but you'd be hard pressed to notice unless you know exactly where to look. A BL is a LOT less obvious on darker Jeeps. I have a manual. I did the body and motor lift together. The motor lift gives the motor a bit of a tilt to minimize issues with shifters. It also flattens the angle for the driveshaft to reduce vibes you may encounter with a lift. I had vibes with the OME lift, so I installed the motor lift and all is great now. If you do a BL, but do NOT do a motor lift, you WILL need to relocate the fan shroud around your cooling fan. If you don't, well, let's just say you don't wanna find out.
Here's my TJ with the OME lift and JKS BL/MML setup.
If you look in the rear wheel well in the following pic, you can see the gap created by the body lift... not really noticeable.
-Paul
I am trying to "pimp" out my 95 Wrangler for my son. I am a single mom so bear with me here...LOL
I am wondering what size wheels and tires will give him that rugged look without sacrificing safety. He will only be driving around town...maybe 4wheeling once in a while. The jeep is currently stock; exactly what it came with. He is also wanting to do a 4" lift kit? I have been told that a 2" kit would be much better. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
I have a 2003 X model and I put Goodyear Wrangler 30" x 9.5 x 15 Silent Armour tires on mine (cost about $125.00 each) . These tires will fit the stock rims he has (as long as they are 15" in size).
I don't have a lift kit and rarely go off road (except for the beach sometimes) but the tires look really rugged and drive very securely on the road. If you have lift kit installed for him, I would recommend the 2" lift and not the 4" lift. The higher the lift, the more $$ you'll spend on other parts as the Jeep wears.
In practice you can't do it too often, only too infrequently, though for even wear it's important to stick to the same figure.
I'm coming up to sixty thousand miles on my BFG AT KOs with very even wear and they're looking good for at least another ten thousand.
The preferred rotation is rears straight to the front, fronts to the opposite position on the rear, i.e. r/r and l/r to r/f and l/f, l/f to r/r and r/f to l/r.
If you include the spare then choose a position and switch it for that each time.
Of course, that's all too late for you.............
No mods... stock everything else... So here is the question, Mac, or anyone else... anyone have any experience with the new Wrangler Silent Armor AT tires? I was thinking about getting back into the BFG's. They did point out some of the good stuff on the SA's. Also, they said that this tire also add's about 1/2 inch to the height versus the BFG AT K/O's... Not important, but interesting anyway.
In either case, rotation is will be the order of the day every oil change!.. After checking, I actually got 40,000 miles on them, but seeing your post Mac, I should have gotten 50,000+ miles...!
If you have a warranty on the tires it should be covered, at least on a pro-rated basis.
Can't comment on the Wrangler Silent Armor AT tires I'm afraid.
However, I'm still impressed with the BFGs so I'll probably replace them with a second set when the time comes.
I have the BFG A/T KO's on my '00 TJ. The BFG's are a good tire, however there are others on the market that may equal or exceed their performance at a lower cost. I personally don't care for Goodyear products because of problems with several of their products including the Wrangler GSA, Eagle RSA, and Eagle GA. It appears that most flotation size tires( 30x9.5-15, 31x10.5-15, etc.) are now made in load range C,which due to their stiffer construction for increased load capacity, will make a Jeep ride worse than normal. The stock 30x9.5-15 GY Wrangler GSA's that came on my TJ were load range B. When I upgraded to 31x10.5-15 BFG A/T KO's they were offered only in load range C. There are some all terrain tires in P-metric sizes that are comparable to 30x9.5-15 or 31x10.5-15 in size, yet are SL (standard load) rated, so that your ride and handling won't be as compromised. Some examples are: 30x9.5-15,Cooper Discoverer ATR P265/75-15, General Grabber AT2 P265/70-15, Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S P265/70-15; 31x10.5-15, Toyo Open Country A/T P265/75-15. Although the metric sizes are the same or close, if you go to the various tire manufacturer's websites, you will find that the actual height, width, and RPM measurements give a more accurate representation of their size. The General Grabber AT2 and the BFG A/T KO are both severe snow condition rated by the Rubber Manufacturer's Assoc. Tires that that meet this snow traction criteria have a mountain/snowflake symbol on the tire sidewall. As for the tire rotation, doing it at 3K miles with oil change is a good practice. Tires with more aggressive tread pattern seem to need more frequent rotations in order to wear evenly. I hope this helps. Matt.
"The preferred rotation is rears straight to the front, fronts to the opposite position on the rear, i.e. r/r and l/r to r/f and l/f, l/f to r/r and r/f to l/r.
If you include the spare then choose a position and switch it for that each time."
And i bought the full size spare tires... should i throw it into the rotation or not
If your son is a new driver, a higher COG vehicle may NOT be your best choice...
-Paul
Also, I just purchased some 15x8 rims with 3.75 backspacing. Since my stock wheels have 5.5 bs, this creates a 1.25" space, my tire will be 2" thicker, but only 1" on the interior side, so I should still have .25" clearance in the wheel well and not have to worry about rubbing. Does this sound correct?
I run 12.5 wide with 4.25" backspacing with only very minor rubbing at full lock. 3.75" would alleviate it completely for the 11.5" wide tires.
-Paul
Thanks for any advice you guys can provide.
while driving the jeep shuts off, no noise or any indication of problem. running fine just stops. dash board lights up. put car in park go to start it and nothing no noise not turning over just nothing. push car to side of road and once done pushing car off road it decides to starts and runs fine. no check engine light. a few days before when driving down highway the the dash board lights ups and even the window washer spraied, but car kept running. A couple of times since the car whould have a dead key turn the key nothing no noise, not turn over, etc. then it would start.
Because of its occasional nature the easiest way to track it down is to access the wiring in those areas and just wiggle things around until the fault appears.
You can often narrow it to one connector or a few inches of wiring loom that way, and then you can go in with a circuit tester to find it precisely.
Second, it could be the PCM. If so it should still be covered by your emissions warranty, even though you're over the mileage for your 3/36. Check your handbook for details.
However, the thing that puzzles me the most is the uncommanded activation of the screen washer.
AFAIK the PCM plays no part in its operation, so it would have to be activated either by a faulty switch (which could possibly be the cause of the whole problem anyway), or by a direct short.
I'd start my investigation with that switch and the area surrounding it.
31 INCHES TALL
10.5 INCHES WIDE
15 INCH RIM
SONOFADOCKER@YAHOO.COM
Do any of you know if used or new front body fenders-grill-hood will bolt onto our 1990 yj ?
-Paul
Can't help with the Coopers, but FWIW I've just replaced my 31x10.5 BFG A/T KOs after 60,000 miles with an identical set.
These are an excellent all condition highway tire, and very good offroad on all surfaces except deep mud.
I could easily have pushed them another few thousand miles before the tread became too low to be safe, but I like to keep a good margin.
As with any tire though, you need to keep on top of rotation, pressures, and alignment to get the maximum mileage.
They're widely available and I paid $135 ($150 -10% coupon) each plus tax and add-ons at Sears.
All around town or being towed by class A RV.
Recently I have a strong odor of HOT gear oil when
driving on the parkway at 60-65mph after a 40 mile drive.
The Jeep is performing excellent as normal - just a very strong odor of hot gear oil.
The odor is at the end of the trip - not the beginning or during the trip.
Any idea on what to service ?
Inspect the differentials, transmission, and transfer case for signs of leaks, and check to see that the breather hoses haven't come off the top of the diff housings.
Whether you find leaks or not, check the fluid levels of all the above.
also i get a loud clunk from time to time when i begin moving in 1st gear, and very rarely when i start moving in reverse. I thought this might be transmission but i'm not sure, any ideas?
The 30x9.5-15 will fit on stock wheel. I like the look of the General Grabber AT2, reasonable price for all-terrain tire. They might be next on my TJ. May get some minor rub when steering turned to full lock. If still on stock springs, check for spring fatigue which will lower ride height and reduce tire clearance in wheelwell. When looking at leaf pack from side, the pack should have an upward curve between the spring eyes. If pack is flat or has downward curve, it's time for new spring packs. They are cheap, and easy to change, can be done at home with common tools and jack& stands. A stock or nearly stock type suspension is reliable and still quite capable off-road. As for clunk, I would start by checking u-joints in drive shafts, primarily the rear. A short driveshaft combined with steep angle is rough on the u-joints. Good luck, Merry Christmas.
I run mine (same size BFG AT KO) at 27psi all round. Factory recommended pressure for 30x9.5x15 is 29psi.
I recently fitted a new set after approximately 60K on the old ones with perfect tire wear (rotation every 3K).
The 50psi on the tire wall is maximum pressure at maximum load and not any kind of practical recommendation.
I've read several of your posts and you seem very knowledgeable on wheels on Wranglers. I have a stock 2001 Sahara with stock Canyon wheels (15x8's). I want to upgrade to an 18x8 with about a 31 or 32 inch tire. The tires that I have looked at (Yokohoma Geolanders) have a height of 32 inches and overall (sidewall to sidewall) width of about 11 inches. I plan to put a 2.5 or 3 inch Rough Country lift kit under it. I don't offroad, but I love the look of a mildy raised Wrangler with taller than stock tires. I don't like for my tires to stick out beyond the flares very much. Currently my tires run pretty even with my fender flares. I can deal with them protruding about an inch beyond the flares. I've been told that the offset of my stock Canyon wheel is 25mm negative and the backspacing is 5.5 inches. What backspacing and offset do you think would accomplish the look I'm after?
Pat
My 15x8's run a 12.5" wide tire. My canyons ARE backspaced 5.5" but I have a 1.25" wheel spacer on each corner to make the effective backspacing 4.25"
Here are the spacers:
With this setup, I have NO problems turning on the street. You could run a 33x12.5x18 tire similar to what I have on my OME lift setup and stick out a bit past the fender. Wheel size (15 vs 18) would only make the sidewall a bit smaller on the 18's.
Here's how much my 33x12.5x15" MT's stick out with the Canyons/spacers.
You'll find that if you go with a lower backspacing number, your wheels will stick our further than you want. However, if you go with a higher backspacing number, you're more likely to rub when turning, even on the street. You COULD do a 32x10" tire if they're available on 18" wheels, but it is an odd size setup as far as I know. You will also need to check vehicle code in your state to see if tires can stick out at all. Alabama doesn't care as long as you pay for the plate. States like Pennsylvania are a bit more strict about those kinds of things, even with aftermarket flares installed.
-Paul
Decided with warranty on top of warranty, that for now (only 21k miles), the lifting and modding will have to wait. The tread lightly rebate is in the mail. Yesterday, more than 200 miles ago, discount roadforce balanced Lt 265 70 17 C Duratrac's. They got a lot more used lead than the new lead they gave me. Factory km's still had usable tread but the urge to start thinking of falI rains and winter during this dry heatwave overcame me. Was impressed with the road force results. They are only 4ply. We can hear inside the rubicon, almost comes to a good second to better_half's h3 on her 6 ply toyo at's.
Last weekend better_half was using her set of blue_rubi keys and was chomping at the bit today.
Whoa said I.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-Paul
i want to be able to take it out 4wheeling
For me, an AT isn't an option - they don't work in the mud in the southeast.
If you do want an AT, The BFG AT is a good choice, as is the Bridgestone (or Firestone?) Destination AT.
-Paul
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