Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

firstov · October 2003

What does it mean when the brake indicator on panel cluster is lit?
I've checked the brake fluid level and it's fine.
The indicator went on this morning during the way to work.

baggs32 · October 2003

firstov,
Not knowing how many miles you have on your Escape or Tribute it's hard to tell. One reason might be that you need new brake pads/rotors. When they wear down to a certain point the brake fluid level will drop below the sensor every time you hit the brakes, causing the brake light to go on (and stay on). Since more fluid is needed to push the thinner pads up against the rotors your reservoir could look full while the brake pedal is relaxed but it empties fast when you depress the pedal.

There are other possible causes of course but that one comes to mind because I've seen it before in other cars I've driven. It's one of the easier one's to fix too.

theres · October 2003

I have a 2001 Ford Escape V6. I have had minor problems until last August. I heard a squeaking noise and took it into the dealer with 3 days. I was shocked to find out it was my right brakes and that they needed to change the rotors also. I was extremely upset because I had no notice that the brakes needed to be changed until 3 days prior. Rotors could not go bad in three days of driving with 15 -20 miles a day. I bit my lip and paid. Yesterday I heard the squeaking again and took it right in to the dealer today. Guess what??? You are right. They said the rotors were no good again. This has to be a defect in the brake system. I have owned many cars and never, NEVER have I ever had to pay $1000+ in brake replacement in less than 13 months. Has anyone else had this problem?

wenreder1 · October 2003

(reply to: #2237 of 2249 problems with 03 tributes ? by happymister)

THANKS for the reply...... much appreciated !!
I was born & raised in Connecticut, spent my first 48 years (48 winters) there, but the last two years we went to an "extreme"..... moved to Tampa, Florida.
I'm a "musclecar gearhead" from the 60's/70's and always had my "beauty" stored away in the garage Dec. thru April and used my "beater" for the slush, snow & sand winters. I've mellowed out the past few years (after mid-life crisis) but I'm still a "semi-agressive" driver.... just hate being behind a vehicle going under the posted speed limit. My '00 Acura TL is getting "old" and while looking for a new car I've noticed the S.U.V.'s of present are so much more refined than those just 5 years ago. Proof of this is our '03 Acura MDX. Sure wish we could have TWO, but we still owe 80% on that one.

So..... bottom line: I am trying to get decent "handling" and very good accelleration in an ALL wheel drive S.U.V. that will burn regular gas and still get around 20 MPG for under $26K. We are planning to move "out in the Country" in Connecticut and from past experience I know those streets are often the very last to get plowed.

I've driven quite a few Mazda Tributes and one Ford Escape. I found the interior is so "plasticy" and the rear drums (to me) are a step backwards, but compared to a KIA Sorento that has solid rear axle and gets 15MPG, the Tribute is still on my "wish list". I am hoping that by March - April 2004, ALL (or most) of the MAJOR Tribute/Escape bugs will be worked out. After reading many of the above forum posts from owners that had to have engine replacements, brake problems, etc. DOES put some "doubt" in my mind as to the integrity of the Tribute / Escape.

turksteritis · October 2003

I have owned a 01 Tribute & just recently bought a 03. I have allready put on 27,000 kilo,s(21,000 miles) on my 03 & it has been rock solid dead nuts reliable. My 01 had a problem before the odometer reached 50 kilos(fuel smell) & it had a lot of problems including a new tranny at 40,000 kilos. It was such a blast to drive tho I gambled on a new one & it is vastly improved over the 01. I can tell my 03 es awd will easily go 200k with out a wimper!

happymister · October 2003

hi wenreder1,

i guess if u are familiar with connecticut.. i neednn't say anymore !! ;-)

if r willing to wait until 2004.. then an alternative to consider might be the escape hybrid. it should be as reliable as the '03s but with better gas mileage.
I ruled out all Kias because of their horrible gas mileage.
I agree that the Tribute rear drum brakes are a surprise.. since in the last decade all sedans i owned were disk brakes. but the braking is very smooth even in the rains this summer.. so i quite ok with my 03 so far. FWIW.

wenreder1 · October 2003

....for the reply. (#2252 tribute reliability and snow)
as you know, I originally had my eyes on a Mazda6 and (out of curiosity) I look back at that forum from time to time (have you recently read about the door frame rusting?) and it makes me happy I did not buy a "first year model".
Yes, I am willing to wait and actually plan to buy a 2004 S.U.V. (hopefully a Tribute) sometime in March, April or May. Perhaps by then many "bugs and problems" will be worked out, and 99% of the comments in this forum will be extremely positive and about very minor bugs or annoyances. Back in '99 I was on Edmunds.com for two months (every day) trying to decide between an '00 Acura TL or an '00 Lexus 300ES, finally chosing the Acura. As I mentioned before, I am currently living with a "timebomb" as my Acura TL has that famous transmission failure problem, which has reduced it's resale value drastically.... and the '00 was a second year model build.
I think MY biggest problem when deciding which '04 S.U.V. to buy is made difficult because we own a "top of the line" '03 Acura MDX w/Touring, NAV, Tow pkg. etc. and although I know it's a $42K vehicle, I subconsciously "compare" these $25K S.U.V.'s like Escape/Tribute/Sorento/Santa Fe to the MDX. Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and get a Honda Pilot ($32K) but I DO like the way the Tribute accelerates and handles.
You mentioned a "hybrid".... I may be confused here, but what did you mean?
I mentioned before that the color I fell in love with (a sissy thing for a guy to say?) is Light Tundra Metallic, which only Mazda (Tribute) offers. To me, Ford has NO exciting colors that I would want (Escape).

bradboy3 · October 2003

My wife drives an 02 Ford Escape. Lately, the battery light has been staying on when she starts the car. Any ideas on what is causing this?

wijoco · October 2003

You have a problem with your chargin system. You need to have both the charging system and the battery state-of-charge tested.

stever · October 2003

For those who don't get Wenreder1's rust reference, you won't be able to avoid hearing about it soon. Some Mazda6 owners have found rust and the issue is expanding exponentially here and around the net.

Best check under your door and trunk gaskets just to calm yourself before the storm :-)

Steve, Host

mgkrost · October 2003

We have an '01 Tribute ESV6. It has 30k miles on it now. So far, our "idiot" lights have gone whacko--they blink or stay on all the time; right now, it's the airbag one that's acting up. The transmission started slipping and grinding back in the summer, at about 25k. It sounds terrible. In the past month, the truck lost all power at 25mph, under normal driving conditions. This was very scary; I've spoken to a mechanic who says he has seen this twice now in a Tribute--some valve gets "carbed up." Any comments on this? Also, the windshield wipers stopped working a few days ago. We are pretty frustrated at this point.

happymister · October 2003

The hybrid escape i was mentioning is that if u are willing to give up on ur color choice and don't mind owning a ford instead of a Mazda.. then the 04 has a good choice via Ford Escape Hybrid model.. which is will give about 35mpg in city driving.. ;-)

http://www.fordvehicles.com/escapehybrid/main.asp

available in late summer 2004. so later than when u want one... it will be a new model year for 2004.. but since the hybrid is part of the powertrain.. the powertrain warranty will take care of it.

it is really worth it if u r putting high miles on ur cars. I calculated the price... and for my use.. where in put < 10k miles a year.. the price premium was not worth it... so i decided not to wait for it.

since u r planing to buy in Mar 04.. u should definitely consider it. The prototype had a light ice blue color.. which was pretty new and cool. if production versions also have it.. it might be a nice alternative for ur light tundra mettalic ;-)

Have fun researching in the mean time.. ;-)

wenreder1 · October 2003

...... just went to the web site and WOW !!
This Hybrid is gonna be a red-hot seller.... betcha' there will actually be a long waiting list. They claim the "power" of a V6 and fantastic mileage figures.... definitely a "vehicle of the future - here today" (or summer '04).
F.Y.I. - I just changed oil & filter in my '00 Acura TL today (Mobil 1), a "dirty" job but I get to make sure all is done right, plus I can "inspect" too, and during my inspection I found gobs of grease thrown out of the driver's side C.V. joint boot (I must fix this A.S.A.P.) I just purchased and installed a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires, PowerStop cross-drilled front rotors and ceramicool pads (all wheels), then just recently the S.R.S. light has come on and my TL has only 35K miles. Let's hope this Winter in Connecticut will NOT be nearly as brutal as last year, so at least my TL will make it thru until Spring '04 without major problems. Remember, the "Acura transmission timebomb" !! I sure do wish I can "dump it" down here (in Florida) and buy a NEW vehicle for the drive up to Connecticut next month.

cdnescape · October 2003

Anyone have their V6 Escape Explode on starting??
Mine backfired, smoke and flame from under hood and plastic intake manifold was totally blown apart. Dealer said no fault codes, but they had a "bulletin that suggested" could adjust PCM computer to reduce chance of backfire. Had previously done intake gaskets and PCM reprogramming.
And since just off warranty, this "normal" failure was my cost to replace intake manifold, accelerator cable, and some ignition pieces. So now I have a new terrorist weapon, waiting for the next bomb to go off. THANKS FORD!!!

larryk5 · October 2003

My 16 year old daughter is about to get her first car and I was looking at a used 2wd Escape. I have not read this entire board but was surprised to see all the issues with this suv. Is there a year/model combo that has proven to be more reliable?

Thanks
Larry

happymister · October 2003

FWIW, I would strongly advice against getting a SUV for ur daughter's first car. Apart from '01 escape/tributes having some troubles because they were first year models.. , driving an SUV as her first car is not safe. get her a sedan and sleep peacefully. if she wants to look cool..get her a sports coupe like an older acura integra and and if SUV is a must. get a older RAV4 or CRV for better reliability for 01 model years.

happymister · October 2003

I was going thru the manual for my '03 tribute.. and i was shocked that the sales guy gave me such a load of crapola info about the 4x4.

He told me to switch on the 4x4 anytime i want for better traction during rainy days. well.. last weekend it was raining and i switched it on and back ed out of my driveway and as i was turning in reverse towards my "turn-around", my tribute was jerky and noisy.. and i got real scared that my transmission was hosed.

I checked the manual immediately and it says NOT TO USE THE 4x4 button which puts it in 4x4 ON mode unless u are in a road where u cannot see any dry OR WET pavement.

only to turn it on when u r offroad or when the road is completely covered with snow or ice.

I presume my differential wouldn't have got damaged so soon.. but i guess i need to get them to check it when i go in for my 1st oil change.

The manual also says that 4x4 is usually always in the AUTO mode - which means that it will kick in whenver it is needed.
Does anyone have any experience with this.. have u noticed that it kicks in automatically ?

since i dont' expect my wife to go offroad.. i am serioulsy tempted to put a tape on that button saying "do not touch" (remember Kevin Bacon did something similar in the movie - Apollo 13 :-) )

baggs32 · October 2003

"The manual also says that 4x4 is usually always in the AUTO mode - which means that it will kick in whenver it is needed.
Does anyone have any experience with this.. have u noticed that it kicks in automatically ?"

Yes it does. You really should never need to turn it "ON", but it does help a lot in deep snow, sand, and/or mud. I've switched it to "ON" in all three and you do notice a difference. However, you do not need it to be "ON" in the rain and, as you've already read in the manual, it is not recommended by the manufacturer.

I'd also go back and give that salesman and/or his manager an earful if I were you! You might get some free service out of it.

clasley · October 2003

I have a 01' ES-V6 Tribute and it seems to have a issue when it sits for a long period of time usually when it is cold out. When I first start it and put it and gear all is fine until I try to accelerate. When I accelerate, the engine kinda hesitates then goes. This continues usually for a couple of minutes. I think until it warms up. I took it into the dealer last week for the same issue and they fixed a couple of things but it didn't help. Oh yeah, I don't know if this helps but the coolant light comes on also on cold start but eventually goes off. So the dealer has it and I have an ugly ford taurus as a rent-a-car until they fix it. I know I read some stalling issues that were earlier posted I just don't know if this is the same problem. Any ideas on whats wrong with my tribute??

scape2 · October 2003

Yes, after owning an 01 Escape and taking it frequently into the snow along with finding my favorite fishing spots I can vouch the 4x4 Auto works just as the manual says. The only time I switch into 4x4 on is when I am in the snow all day, or am in situations that I know 4x4 is going to come in handy. If you only had the system on for a short amount of distance/time I doubt you did any damage.
My advise just leave it in auto mode. The system will work when the front wheels sense the slippage. However, if you do plan on driving in the snow, mudd, ice whatever for extended periods of time then the 4x4 mode should be on.

shona99 · October 2003

My 2001 Mazda Tribute has 43,000 miles on it and has recently developed a start issue. If the vehicle sits for a long period of time say 24 hours or so it will not start. All the engine lights come on and it just doesn't keep power. If I push on the gas peddle it will run but as soon as I let off it dies. Any one else experienced this problem?

ryan41 · October 2003

I have a 2002 LX 2WD with about 15,000 miles on it. Runs fine, dealer serviced since new only one odd noise from engine. I haved used the 5W20 oil in the car and after a year of ownership I have concluded that right after the oil is changed I get a tapping noise from the engine sort of like noisy lifters, as the oil gets thicker over a month or two after the oil is changed it tends to go away. There is no noise when the engine is cold only after is warmed, seems like when the oil thins out. Is this oil too thin? I am thinking of switching to 10W30. The noise seems to be related to the thickness of the oil. Most of the noise is gone during the winter. Does anyone else experience this?

scape2 · October 2003

Have you had your injectors cleaned? fuel filter changed?
Oil, I have used 10W-30 in my Escape since day 1. I now have over 30,000 trouble free miles on this vehicle with no issues. The 5W-20 is more for fuel economy. 10W-30 is just fine for the Escape, as any Ford mechanic.

kijafa · October 2003

I have a 2001 Tribute with 42,000 miles. At 39,000 during an oil change and routine check, the dealer said the front brakes were measuring 4 (out of original 12). So when I took it for an oil change today I was going to have him change the front pads. Not having read this board before, I was very surprised when I was told that the rotors had to be replaced also. He said this was characteristic of the Tribute, he thought it was not a good feature, but never the less one they see consistently. He assured me that we did not wait to long to bring it in, it was a character flaw of the Tribute.
  At least by now finding this board and reading the other posts regarding this same problem, I at least feel better.
  But, $529. later. . . . .

  Have a great weekend!

rep62ar · October 2003

I don't know if this will help either of you, but we just replaced the air intake valve in my '01 Tribute ES due to same type of issues that you describe and haven't had any more problems with the loss of power on idle/slow start not holding power(knock on wood).

shona99 · October 2003

Clasley...my coolant light came on too when my problems started. They replaced some sensor and I haven't had it come on since ...I do think that it is very unusual that we both have the same type of problems and that the coolant light was coming on.
Rep62ar...Thanks so much for the info I will mention it to the dealership on Monday they have had my car all weekend "sitting" so that they can try to look at it in a no start condition... for some reason opening the hood of the car or even the ride on the tow truck can jiggle or move or do something that will make it start. I am about ready to ditch it if they can't fix it.
I have had many other problems. Both sway bar links replaced. Headlights that have condensation problems. Doors that wont open. Windows that wont go up and down. And the sad thing is that I love this car...I am just afraid after my warranty goes it is going to be a money pit. Thanks again for the info.

bradboy3 · October 2003

A couple of weeks ago my wife told me the battery light in her 02 Escape was coming on. However, on closer inspection I found out that it was the coolant light that comes on. It only stays on for about a minute and only when the car is first started in the morning. Any ideas on what is causing this?

mhaynie1 · October 2003

You probably have a bad sensor. I have a 2001 Tribute that had the same problem, and the dealer replaced the sensor, under warranty. The Fords may have the same problem.

dgerges · October 2003

I have a 2002 Tribute V6 that has an annoying rattle coming from somewhere in the hatch lid or in the trim back there. Anyone else had this and fixed it? I tried silicon in all the seals to no avail.
Also, my oil plug leaks a few drops a day and a new factory plug did not cure it - anyone have a similar problem/fix?

liernman · October 2003

Just had oil changed at Mazda dealership and noticed a ticking noise similar to what you described after the oil change. Never experienced this before, and we always use the same dealership for oil changes - every 4000 miles.
I assume they used 5-20 oil. I'll contact the service department and post their response on this.

nortsr1 · October 2003

dgerges:
The rear hatch lid is adjustable and if the rear glass is where it rattles, there are two black rubber type nipples... supposedly to stop the glass from hitting the metal. If one of them is missing, just go to the dealer and ask parts dept. for a replacement...they just snap into the small hole. In my case, I merely took some sticky sided velcro and made my own.

mhaynie1 · October 2003

2001 Tribute, 51k miles - just spent over $500 to have the rotors replaced!! I had hoped to avoid the possibility of replacing the rotors after reading the previous post (by changing the brake pads when it was recommended), but my hopes were dashed when the service rep, obviously using his sensitivity training, told me that my rotors were bad (i.e., below spec). To push the sale, he and the mechanic said that they could not turn the rotors because they were already below spec and brake function and safety would be compromised; he also told me that the dealer could not legally allow my Tribute back on the road for liability reasons. For those of you who are about to have your brake pads replaced, you may want to bring a lawyer and engineer with you.

mckee4 · October 2003

For those that have replaced their brakes at
various intervals, both pads and rotors...
My '01 Escape XLT V6 needed both at 29K miles.
Replacements costs are on par with those listed in these postings, ~$465.00. The Ford Service
Advisor told me the rotors are 'unturnable' and
that a lot of auto makers are going to the
'disposable' type rotors, Mercedes, and the like.
I've found a reputable independent shop that will
replace the next set, when needed, with ceramic
pads (minimal to no-dust), and turnable rotors
both good after-market brands. I can certainly
relate and commiserate with all who've undergone
this expense so far. However, I'll have to
do the same thing again in about another year
or 20K miles, this time to a better solution
hopefully.

For those with hard-start to stall problems,
mine was the IAC sensor which a friend/mechanic
diagosed in under two (2) minutes. I ordered
the part (Motorcraft) from a parts-house which
was about 15% cheaper than getting it through
a dealership. The part will be about $60.00.
This may not be the same problem or even the
right fix for everyone, but it was for mine.
The fix literally took 5-minutes tops because
the IAC sits on top near the air intake closer
to the engine.

There have been a few other minor problems but
overall this vehicle has been no more problematic
that other vehicles I've owned and less than
others. Independent mechanic shop has recommended
de-carboning the intake throttle body about
every 15K miles. They showed me how do it myself
and save $60 - $70. They claim that this procedure will reduce carbon build-up which occurs
in all autos but especially in a lot of Ford
products.

baggs32 · October 2003

mckee4,
Are you able to post the procedures for cleaning the intake?

Thanks.

rudy32 · October 2003

Have a 2001 Ford Escape with 57,000 miles. Car will start, but will not turn over. Takes up to 20 minutes for the car to start sometimes. In all cases I need to step on the gas to get the engine running. One time when the car finally started, I started driving it and it lost all power. Luckily, I was in an empty parking lot. This happened only once.

Took the car to a local mechanic. He could not figure out what was wrong. Ran it through the computer tests. He replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay -- said this was the cheapest route. Other alternatives would be more costly.

Has anyone else had this problem? Were you able to correct it? What was the cost and did you go the Ford dealer?

buyusmade · October 2003

Hi: I have a 2002 MY - V6, 4x4 .. with 36K+ miles.

1. I have a noise issue with the vehicle. At about 35 MPH and at high way speeds, I hear a periodic noise from the right wheel area. Appears as though the bearings or something is gone. Took it to the dealer, he tell me that the tires are cupped and so on. He is refusing to fix the same. The tires are original tires, rotated and are in excellent condition.
Apparently, at 34K+ miles, I had a similar issue and they had replace the wheel bearing, hub part etc. Now they are reneging from fixing the same on RHS. ANY ADVICE OR EXPERIENCE ON WHAT TO DO?

2. The passenger side front window glass does not close properly at highway speeds. On other windows the problems is not a severe. I have taken the vehicle back to dealership to get the same fixed several times. They keep telling me there is nothing they can do? ANY IDEAS?

Appreciate your input in advance, Thanks.

odie6l · October 2003

I had that happen to my Goodyear Wrangler RF-A 60k mile tires at 28k. Lucky for me I purchased the lifetime warrenty FROM goodyear on the tires, so I got replacments free of charge.

The techs at my local dealer that I get all my work done at said that the problem with the tires wearing out faster is the torque is too much for the size tire that ford is using, and there isn't anything that they can really do about it. The Guys at Goodyear told me the same thing, and that it was smart for me to have the warrenty on the tires. The Dunlop's I have now also have the full Lifetime warrenty on them and lets see if they wear out, I have 38,572 miles on my escape now, but only just over 10k on the new tires.

Odie

shona99 · October 2003

I have had the exact same problem with my 2001 tribute. I had it towed 4 times in the last month. I told the dealership that another member from this board had the same problem and they replaced the air intake valve. They found a bulletin on the "tech support line" that also suggested this fix. So...after months of this crap they replaced the valve and I have had not a single problem since. If it were not for this board I would not have known to mention it to the dealer .

shona99 · October 2003

There is a message above #2282 that refers to the IAC which is what was replaced in my tribute. Sounds like you can buy the part and fix pretty cheap. Good luck.

scape2 · October 2003

please explain to me how brakes are a problem? These are a wearable item and greatly depends on how a vehicle is driven. Replacing brakes at 40,000, or 50,000 or 29,000?? depends greatly on the driver.... And I would in no way complaine at 40,000 for brakes... Don't forget folks.. The Escape/Trib rate the BEST in stopping distance in this class also....

liernman · October 2003

The ticking noise was identified as the fuel injectors by the dealership. They told me it's normal to hear after the engine has warmed. I realize there is no correlation between the oil and the fuel injectors ...

scarrcop · October 2003

I'm just researching the front rotor problem with My Tribute. I love the vehicle. but at 25,500 miles I need to replace the pads and front rotors. The pads I don't mind, but there is no reason why the front rotors should be so badly worn that then need to be replaced. The dealer said it was common with the Tributes. Cost $660.00. There's no way, I'm going to keep replacing my rotors every time I need new pads. I'm looking for a third party rotor. Any suggestions? I'll trade the car in for a Nissan if I can't find decent rotors.

scape2 · October 2003

just recalled over 2.5 million vehicles....

suvshopper4 · October 2003

So someone answers your question, about why the brake job at low mileage is a problem (it's expensive!), and that's your best reply?

rotarykid · October 2003

Having worked for mazda service for many years, I have seen and still see many brake jobs. The tribute situation is a nightmare. Although the pads seem to be wearing at a normal rate (nothing under 25k) the rotors need to be replaced with every brake job due to wear. These are not cheap rotors (around $135...each) and it's chasing some customers right out the door. Disposable usually goes hand in hand with cheap, but not in this case. Rotors on a 626 are around $80 each and usually can be cut twice. Domestic car companies are clueless when it comes to quality. Millenia rotors and pads dont even start to wear until 50k, and they provide just as much, if not more, stopping power than that of the tribute.

wijoco · November 2003

I think going with a quality aftermarket set of rotors is your best bet. Ford rotors are often overpriced and of insufficient quality. Check out NAPAonline, you can get NAPA/United front rotors for $67 each. And I bet they last longer than Ford's. Plus, they should be easy enough to install yourself. Just remember to torque your lug nuts when you put the wheel back on!

doggyworld · November 2003

I know this isn't a problem.. but it seems nobody checks the other Tribute message boards.. so I'm posting here.

Can anyone point me to a place which would have detailed instructions on removing the factory stereo and installing a new one? Or, if you could just write out how to do it, that would be great too. I don't really know much about how to install car stereo's, but I heard that it is not that difficult, so I would like to put an MP3 CD player to replace the factory stereo. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Also, I found this which looks alot like the same shape as my stereo, so I'm wondering if this is the same way you would remove it:

http://www.carstereohelp.org/stereoremoval/MazdaMPV3StrR.htm

bess · November 2003

On my Ford Escape, it is not nearly that complicated as the post you reference..

Go to any automotive store and buy (for around $5) the special tool needed for ford radios. Its a u-shaped piece of wire..

Note there are 4 holes in the front of the radio(2 on the left, and 2 on the right)..

Stick one u-shaped wire in the 2 left side holes, and the other u-shaped wire in the 2 right side holes..
Push gently outward on the wires while pulling the radio toward you.. Remember to disconnect the wires from the back.. and your done.

A assume the tribute has the same setup.

rudy32 · November 2003

Thanks for the advice. How much did it run to replace air intake valve? IAC? Thanks again.

rep62ar · November 2003

Rudy32, I was one of the ones that suggested IAC replacement to Shona99. I'm glad it worked for her, too and I haven't had to have my Tribute towed since replacing the IAC. Mine was under warranty but the cost per receipt would have been $77 including parts and labor. Good luck.

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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