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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • icevikeicevike Member Posts: 2
    This morning I had a problem with my Windstar 2000. I used it as usually the day before yesterday, it happens that we had a very hard rain down here, then yesterday I didn't used it, but the rain appeared again. So today I started it as any other day, but at the first time I had to stop, the engine turned off. I thought it was because it was cold or something like that, but then again at the first corner it turned off. Then, after a couple of meters it happened again, I noted that sometimes when I step on the break the engine simply seems to get disconnected, I needed to step on the gas and pump it up a little to recover the engine. At the third time the theft signal started to flash, so I decided to go back home. The same happened several more times, sometimes with the theft signal flashing some don't. when I got home, I stepped on the gas hard and noted that the engine hummed and then coughed, everytime I repeated the move, the engine coughed. So I think that maybe I have water on the tank or perhaps it's a problem with the gas pump, what do you think? Any ideas? :(
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    icevic, I have an 02 SEL and I have had a plethera of electrical problems including wha you discribe. To it to my mechanic did a check on the Alt and fount that there was a dead diode in side . He replaced it with abrand new Bosch Alt with life time warrenty and I have had no problems since & it has beed 3 weeks. Good luck. ;):D:D :shades: :shades:
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    Yes John. After a drive the other day that left me waiting an hour on the side of the road for BCAA, I to directly to my mech, dicribed what had taken place this time & he found my battery was flat dead even after driving it to him (10k). Turns out that there wads a dead diod in altenator. Replaced with a brand new Bosch w/ Lifetime unlimited warrenty. I have had this on for a little better than a couple of weeks and have not had a lick of trouble. Alt that was replaced was stock Ford unit. IMO do not replace with OEM. :D:D :shades: :shades:
  • icevikeicevike Member Posts: 2
    Ok, thank you on the advice. I checked and it seems my fuel pump is ok, so next I will look into the Alt, it sounds very logical to me it is the failure. I'll keep you informed. ;)
  • william35765william35765 Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same things going wrong with mine. have you found out how to fix this it is driving me up the wall,i have took mine to get AC fixed had new compresser and lines put in but still the same,and after putting that much money into it its crazy its not working thank you for all the help you can give.
  • eo2hayeseo2hayes Member Posts: 4
    Well here we are in Sep 2010 with the first post on this problem in 2007. I am have the same problem with lights that flash on and off on their schedule. The sliding doors will automatically open after they close. The driver door does it most often. help the dealer has idea; Ford has never been appraised of this problem. ya ya
  • 909geo909geo Member Posts: 1
    I have tried EVERYTHING ! ! !! ! I am frustrated , sick, confused, and felling like I have a real lemon. Fuses..check. Relays...check. switches...check. I am at a loss at what to do. I am somewhat good at dealing with electrical problems. I thought I was an electrician for the last 30 years. But nothing seems to check out. Besides the wipers (ft & r ), no turn signals, windows don't go up or down, the speedometer don't work, and interior lighting don't work.God only knows what else. I was told it may be a "body control module" and that there is two of them. I have no idea where they are or how to find out which one is responsible for the problems. PLEASE HELP ! ! I am going bald quickly !!!! thank you :confuse:
  • sgmaysgmay Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    I'm running into the same issue I was wondering if you were able to resolve?

    Driver side window does not go up, goes down slow. Power to the switch, was able to get the window up by jumping the switch, Sounds like a common problem, I was wondering if the switch or FEM (Front Electronic Modual) were the ultimate replacement part?
  • mst7795mst7795 Member Posts: 1
    i have had all these same problems. had all the recalls done, changed the alt., replaced the batter and starter, all this year and some just last week. yesterday morning i went to turn the van around in the driveway to unload some things and it died when i put it in reverse. started it back up and continued on. then, we drove to my parents house for dinner. when we loaded up to leave, it died again, but i was able to restart again and go on. 15 miles later and almost home, i had complete electrical failure followed by engine failure shortly after. my power steering has been making a whining noise for month prior to me replaceing the starter and battery last week when it wouldn't turn over. now, there is nothing, no lights, no van. it is absolutely dead(no clicking either like a drained battery or alt. problems). any clue cause i don't know.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited December 2010
    I used to help people out with Windstars, but I am at a loss on mine!
    It's a 2001 SEL with about 198,000 miles

    We replaced the alternator about 2 years ago, with one from ford brand new. The battery was replaced with a diehard about 5 months later.

    Regardless., just recently it started to buck at speeds of 35-40 mph. And the check charging system message and battery light will illuminate intermittently. (Ironically it has been in the 40s today the the electrical related message has not appeared)
    The check engine light eventually came on with the code P0305.
    It has started to make a clacking noise. I suspect a misfire though the check engine light is not blinking. I am reading maybe a misfire at Cylinder 5.( I had problems with the rear plugs and wires, the wire would get burnt by the exhaust manifold causing the spark to escape)

    When it started giving me problems related to mechanical 30k miles ago, i did the following (They went away until now)

    Cleaned MAF and IAC
    Replaced upper intake seals and isolator bolts
    Valve Cover
    Replaced all spark plugs with motorcraft.
    The wires were replaced also
    I replaced the coil pack with a new one from ford as well.
    DPFE replaced

    More recently we replaced the belt with a motorcraft replacement, the problems proceeded shortly after this.

    My suspicions are
    a loose connection somewhere
    More notably the positive wire harness, where the battery physically is connected, is somewhat corroded.
    A bad MAF, IAC or EGR valve
    Dirty EGR ports

    I took out the MAF and IAC to clean again, and cleared the codes on the computer.

    If the wire is not the issue I was thinking maybe something near the footwell, as the hood release cable may have dislodged something?

    I doubt its the alternator or battery because the car has started and not exhibited any electrical problems besides the messages on the dash.

    My concern is this electrical problem, causing mechanical as well because of miscommunication amongst sensors?
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    I removed the spark plug from Cylinder 5 which was in the front center of the vehicle. The spark plug was covered in ash deposits. I am reading to install new valve guide seals. I replaced the plug the car runs fine.
  • fmakelafmakela Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2010
    my windstar has a multitude of electrical problems in the last two years. the check engine light has been on for two years ( did come off after a ford dealership trip - week later back on), airbag light on for 4 years - 3rd for dealership trip finally got it off, replaced two starters, one alternator, two batteries, short in rear wiper, front wiper panel, thermostat, heater core, and it continues. Yesterday i drove for approx. 30 mins. stopped at a store, while in the store i used the factory- installed car remote to start it ( it's - 20 C here) when i came out i noticed the abs and brake light indicator on dash were illuminated and the radio and heater were off, idrove the 5 blecks home with no lights, when i got home i turned off car and tried to start it again, it made a terrible clattering, clicking noise under hood andthe interior lights blinked. the interior lights blinked, the doors wouldn't unlock . i went in and left the vehicle for a bit, then started it 15 mins later and drove 7 blocks to work, the radio and lights died on the way there and when i got there i couldn't turn off headlights, i had to try to start it and the lights than turned off, whirring, clicking noise at starting attempt. what should i be looking at , other than burning the damn thing...or selling it...
  • toydude111toydude111 Member Posts: 1
    Great advice. My door locks, gas gauge, interior lights, and all rear lights stopped working. I bought a used rear electronic module on ebay for $75. Installed it in 5 minutes, and everything works great! The dealer wanted $333.33 plus tax just for the part. Imagine what the labor would be.
    When the gas gauge stopped working, my favorite mechanic said the was the fuel sensor, located in the gas tank. It would be about $650 to repair.
    I'm so glad that I know how to calculate gas mileage, and put that repair on the back burner.
  • eddiefaleroeddiefalero Member Posts: 4
    when staring van hazards come on every time... then i turn it off and the left turn signal stays on. i have replaced my battery a year ago, then alternator about 8 months ago, now this. what is causing my battery to discharge. now have battery on charge. i have looked on this forum and from what i can tell that their is a computer thing in the trunk compartment. is it the little black rectangle box? next to the fuel reset switch? i have been checking on some of the wiring harnesess and can't find a short. could it be alarm? then how to disable factory alarm? i also have problem just like the others like; rear pass. window not working properly, heater in back not working. could this be all with the same chip in the trunk compartment?PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • eddiefaleroeddiefalero Member Posts: 4
    by the way... the van is a 2003 model with over 70,000 miles. just had the battery charged and it turned on ok... with the battery light on. took it to andvance to get the system checked and apperently the alternator is not charging properly. tomorow i will take out the alternator and have it checked. that way i can see if it is the alternator or the wiring harness(shorts) in the system.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited December 2010
    What you are describing sounds like the REM module. Or rear electronic Module, that is located behind the jack assembly bracket. There is some foam insulation that has to be moved out of the way when the bracket is loosened and removed, the REM module should be accessible then.
  • eddiefaleroeddiefalero Member Posts: 4
    here is what i have found out so far... First of if you give someone a jump or receive a jump it can mess up your batteries cells, especially in newer model cars because of all of the electronics. it can be just a minute change in the batterys' characteristics to send the (REM) rear electronic module to go haywire. it may not be instant but it will happen. I took my battery to advance and had it checked out and they said it was good. But then i decided to get a battery tester to check each cell individually and i had two cells that were off. i am charging the battery that was at 11.26 volts to get it back to 12+ and will check it again. will check back in when done.
  • eddiefaleroeddiefalero Member Posts: 4
    so far.. all i did was replaced the alternator that wasn't charging the battery. gave the battery a slow charge on 2 amps and the van works fine... will check back in in a few days
  • pinkstar6206pinkstar6206 Member Posts: 1
    :sick: My van just started to do this. Left blinker wont stop turning on by itsself. and now my van wont move out of park. what is this rem module? do i replace it?
  • 14given14given Member Posts: 1
    Thank You! This has been driving me absolutely crazy.
  • rbivinsrbivins Member Posts: 5
    had mine in for three recalls cruise control came back with check engine light back in for front axel rear axel came back with check engine abs lights on and motor mount needs to be replaced quoted $2000.00 to repair it was fine when it went in called ford said it was my responseability they couldnt do anything and they never mentioned anything about brake switch program
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited July 2011
    Speed Control deactivation switch is interlinked with a leaking master brake cylinder reservoir. (The brake fluid leaks on the old switch, shorts out than catches on fire).
    Only the rear axle had a repair, and the front subframe I believe. (which I think you are referring to as a front axle). The only areas that are recalling the Windstars for the rust issues are the northern states, as down here my van is unaffected.

    ABS light and Brake Light are likely the faulty ABS module which us fellow Ford Windstar Owners are trying to have recalled. (Report your ABS troubles to nhtsa 1- (888) 327-4236
    My ABS module is faulty and I have to deal with it or come with I dont know how much money.

    A motor mount is considered something that does degrade over time and is rarely covered by any type of warranty.

    Visit www.fordwindstarrecall.info for more information. (I am not affiliated with the site I just found it useful)
  • cantdodriveupscantdodriveups Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Ford Windstar, the driver-side power window stops working. If I loosen up the screws holding the window motor/regulator, so that I can move it slightly, it will work. But the next day it will probably stop working again. I have measured the volts at the motor connector while pressing the down switch, it shows about 11.5 volts for a second or two, but the motor does not turn. I have tried 2 different remanufactured motor/regulators from NAPA Auto Parts. Same thing happens with them. Could there be something wrong with the mechanics of the window assembly?
  • dthibdthib Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2001 Ford Windstar SEL...we have several issues that we would like feed back on:

    1.) brake light and ABS light come on periodically.
    2.) Driver and passenger windows work periodically.
    3.) Rear windows do not work at all.
    4.) Radio works intermittently, and now down to only 1 speaker working on drivers side.
    5.) A/C powers down when going up hill or increasing speed.
    6.) Power locks on both back doors no longer work. We have to manually unlock and lock.
    7.) All of the buttons on the radio dash..only the right side of each double button works...the left side of a button will not work...weird!

    Are any of these issues things that we can fix ourselves? We are not looking to put a large amount of money into labor.

    Thank you for any input that you all have.
  • rzellersrzellers Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    1999 Ford Windstar drove home and parked vehicle went into house came out and my wife could not start the van. Checked the battery connections there was corrosion we cleaned the battery cables and posts with bake in soda and water and used vaseline to lube the posts.
    No luck lights were on inside but the odometer and driver side window stopped working. PLEASE HELP with any advice you can give. Starter was replaced in 2009 battery was replaced in 2007.
  • dslayer83dslayer83 Member Posts: 2
    sounds like your PATS maybe messed up, look and see when you turn the key if the anti theft light is blinking rapidly in the on position. Should blink once and if there is a problem count any extra blinks after
  • ghetiaghetia Member Posts: 1
    If I did not know better, I would have thought you posted for me.
    I have exactly all the problems you described. What a piece of junk 2001 Ford Windstar is?

    I have spent soooo much money on this van, and it is still coming up with newer problems. I have fixed the windows, door locks, windsheld wiper motor, on and on.

    Now the latest issue at 95,000 miles is the transmission is shifting badly. First it strted off having issues between 3rd and overdrive. Now it is slipping and having issues in most all gears. Where will this stop?

    Anyone having transmission slipping problems and if so, what did you end up doing to fix it?

    Ghetia
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited August 2011
    The transmission on these cars are notorious for failure. I don't know why you are so surprised. I have read about some failing at 30,000 miles when they were relatively new. And the majority of the time the electrical problems are the Alternators or batteries. Seldom it may also be attributed to a bad battery wiring harness (which I happened to replace)

    With this car you are going to get constant problems with the Upper Intake Manifold seals isolator bolts etc. (Clean the EGR ports while your at it)

    You will get problems with the door lock actuator and rear windows..

    And don't forget the abs module.

    Just something you learn to live with and perform your own repairs.

    My 2001 Windstar has 217,000 miles. I don't complain because i get all my money out of a van.

    When people start screwing around with ECM/PCM's is when they create problems for themselves.
    The antitheft light will blink and the car won't start if the Alternator is bad!

    1999-2000 vans without the the jewel keys may have problems with PATS but its rare.

    Check out www.fordwindstarrecall.info

    Other problems.
    http://fordwindstarrecall.info/morecodes.htm
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    it has been excatly 8 months again. the problems started last week. 1st left brake light...replaced. 3 days later, right brake light. Accidently left the headlights on while testing. Van would not start 3 hours later. Assuming not enough cranking amps but still have 12.1 volts on battery. Gave it an all night slow charge on 12volt 2amps. the next morning the van turns on fine, drives fine, no warning lights on. Later on that they after driving all day with no problems,It starts to rain heavy and accidently drive to a small puddle. an hour later, all goes haywire. electroni odometer reads ---------. ABS light on, Brake light on, AC doesn't work. what is going on... going to start checking wiring harnesess. the van still drives ok.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    First off the battery has to be the right size and right CCA. Second off what it sounds like is you have a bad alternator or/and a bad battery. The bad alternator may be screwing around with your bulbs. When the alternator goes bad on this windstars the electricals will get funky. All the gauges will go around lights will blink, the ac won't work, the headlights might not work, among other other things. (It will buck and feel as if it is going to stall)

    We replaced the alternator on our current van about 2 years ago and it more recently went bad again. (The one we purchased before was from Ford)

    Best bet is to get a new alternator (probably rebuilt from autozone etc.) And a new battery. Junkyard alternators are probably failing too.
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    i have checked the alternator and battery. i have a battery acid tester and checked each cell. they all seem to be fine, just a little (about 1/4 cup) low in 2 cells. added a little distilled water. recharged the battery yesturday. the van idles fine and starts up quickly but have not driven it. it seem to be the REM. going to look for prices around since almost everyone in these forums seems to point at the REM. already replaced alternator 3 times and battery twice in the 3 years i have owned this van.
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    still having the problems. here's what I have noticed... Speedometer does not work. odometer reads ----------. RPM guage, fuel guage, temp guage work fine. AC does not work. ABS and BRAKE lights on and overdrive light flashes. while checking the master cylinder, i noticed that the speed control switch attached to the bottom of it. it was leaking into the wiring harness. Had to clean it since autozone do not have that part in their system. while i had the breather hose disconeted I remembered the someone in the forum notice a cluster of wires being pinched by a braket. I moved the cluster of wires from behind the battery away from the braket. (have not opend it to see if that was the problem). found a fuse that was blown (#8) under the instrument panel by the driver side door. replaced the fuse and the odometer reads 99887. somehow it added another 20,000 miles to my van. then the fuse blows. replaced again and it blows again. it takes about a minute to blow, but, the odometer, and overdrive and speedometer work in that min. I guess its time to start checking that circuit.
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    still having the problems. here's what I have noticed... Speedometer does not work. odometer reads ----------. RPM guage, fuel guage, temp guage work fine. AC does not work. ABS and BRAKE lights on and overdrive light flashes. while checking the master cylinder, i noticed that the speed control switch attached to the bottom of it. it was leaking into the wiring harness. Had to clean it since autozone do not have that part in their system. while i had the breather hose disconeted I remembered the someone in the forum notice a cluster of wires being pinched by a braket. I moved the cluster of wires from behind the battery away from the braket. (have not opend it to see if that was the problem). found a fuse that was blown (#8) under the instrument panel by the driver side door. replaced the fuse and the odometer reads 99887. somehow it added another 20,000 miles to my van. then the fuse blows. replaced again and it blows again. it takes about a minute to blow, but, the odometer, and overdrive and speedometer work in that min. I guess its time to start checking that circuit. By the way the alternator is fine and battery still goood
  • a1mike1aa1mike1a Member Posts: 9
    Ford has a recall on the leaking speed sensor on the master cylinder.
    It came out after I replaced mine.
    The brake fluid leaking on the wiring caused all kinds of problems including no cruise.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    Read this website www.fordwindstarrecall.info,
    it DESCRIBES your very problem.

    I believe ford will replace your SCDS switch under recall.(unless you want your car to catch on fire and burn your house down) Leaky master cylinder can supposedly cause this overdrive problem...

    ABS and Brake are probably due to a faulty ABS module
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    in doing some more investigation the culprit is the speed control disconection switch (scds). Being an electrician... i checked all the circuits that corespondent with #8, and the short was indeed in the scds. when i took the part out, it has brake fluid on it and on the back side it had a burn bubble. who knows how long it would had been before the little fire could have spread. i have an appointment with the recall dept. at the ford dealarship on tuesday. so in the meantime i will just use it for extremly short trips to the store.
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    yes it was the scds. burnt and fried... took it to the dealership and both the switch and hareness replaced on recall for FREE. Still don't know what happened to my odometer adding over 15k miles after replacing the fuse
  • tarbaby1tarbaby1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 windstar. It always starts cold. If you drive it around on errands, sometimes it will spin over, but won't start. it. It can sit as long as 2 hours after running around and won't start. After you try to start it and it just spins, you can let it sit for about 10 minutes and it starts fine. Reason it won't start is because it is'nt firing, there is no spark. I have replaced the coil pack, the PCM, and the PCM relay. I just don't know what to try next. It runs fine when started and it never stalls.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    You mention that it doesn't stall so that leads me to believe it is not the IAC.

    But it might be worth replacing here is info on it.

    http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar02.html
  • tarbaby1tarbaby1 Member Posts: 2
    I have replaced the IAC, but for a different reason. You can completely unplug the iac and it will still fire and run.
  • gunner623gunner623 Member Posts: 2
    WHEN WE FIRST BOUGHT THE VAN USED EVERYTHING WORKED FINE INTERIOR LIGHTS STOPPED WORKING AND WOULD POP THE FUSE A DAY OR TWO AFTER U REPLACE IT WE'LL LIVE WITH THE INTERIOR LIGHTS NOT WORKING ........ BUT JUST RECENTLY HAD PROBLEMS WHILE AWAY FROM HOME THE FUEL PUMP RESET SWITCH NEXT TO THE JACK WAS GIVING US PROBLEMS HAD TO PUSH ON IT WHILE SOMEONE CRANKS THE CAR AND SOMETIMES IT WOULD SHUT THE CAR OFF WHILE GOING DOWN THE ROAD VERY DANGEROUS GOT THAT REPLACED AND A NEW BATTERY ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO THE TRANSMISSION WOULD BURP WHILE GOING UP A HILL CHECKED THE FLUID AND IT WAS A LITTLE LOW PUT SOME IN IT N SEEMED TO FIX IT TEMPORARILY BUT GUESS IT FIXED ITSELF NEVER DONE IT SINCE LATER ON WIFE SAYS WHILE GOING DOWN THE ROAD DOOR LOCKS WOULD GO CRAZY AND THATS WHEN THE DRIVERS SIDE POWER WINDOW STOPPED WORKING AND THE BACK WINDOWS WONT OPEN EITHER AND TODAY THE ALTERNATOR DECIDES TO GO OUT ALL THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT FUEL LIGHT ABS LIGHTS COME ON IN THE DASH I REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND EVERYTHING IS FINE EXCEPT FUEL GAUGE ISN'T WORKING ANY SOLUTIONS TO FIX MY PROBLEMS?? ALL HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED
  • caliwillcaliwill Member Posts: 1
    the other day my daughter left her dvd player on and it drained the battery i tried to start it and the hazards and interior lights came on all by them selves and started flashing is this normal? also we jump stared it and was unning fine for a day when i got in it yesterday the battery light wouldnt turn off and it was saying check charging system has any one came by this and if so what do i need to do to fix this
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    the same thing happened to me a few years ago...the dvd player. I had to buy a new alternator and battery because it killed 2 cells in my battery and it caused the alternator not to charge properly. When the cells in the battery are bad it sends weird signals to the computer in your van and thats why things start flikkering. Its a windstar thing. If you look at all my post and replyies you will see all the crap i have been thru...good luck
  • a1mike1aa1mike1a Member Posts: 9
    Your dvd player kept the computer on your windstar active preventing it from going to sleep. This drains the battery quickly. I have been through 3 alternators with this van. I bought a lifetime alternator the 2nd time. Just had it prepaired last week for free. My GPS was causing my battery to drain.
    I also have a E350 2008 van that kills the battery if I leave my GPS pluged in.
    Ford needs to address this problem.
  • rog64ertrog64ert Member Posts: 1
    This may have been addressed already, so forgive me if it has. I could not find it.

    First I have a 200 Windstar SE, and replace the tie rods and front wiper motor every year or two.
    A sensor between the firewall and the engine failed, keeping the service engine light on.
    The ABS is intermittent, but usually on, but functional as a system.

    Now I have issues that I have to believe are related.

    First to fail were the heated mirrors and side view mirror controls.
    Then the Side Door Buttons between the visors, became intermittent.
    Then The DS Rear Window fails to open or close at times.
    Then the Door Locks started functioning sporadically.
    Then the Side Doors stopped opening consistently, seldom close all of the way to lock, and the DS Side Door only opens a foot.
    and the newest to my troubles are:
    The Backup Alarm and Back Up Lights do not work at all.

    Sometimes some days are better, but usually not. Any advice, guidance or direction will be appreciated, short of directing me to the dealership.
  • girlbeargirlbear Member Posts: 1
    I have 1999 Windstar. A few years back the driver's window stopped working. That winter it started working again and now I can guarantee that the first real cold snap will leave the window working all winter long. But come spring, let the car door sit in the sun and the window stopped working again.

    I tried a different panel switch but the window still wouldn't go down. Two days ago, a mechanic replaced the motor and the window worked for a day. After a day of sitting in a parking lot with the sun shining on it, the window doesn't work again.

    I'm thinking some wire or mechanism must be expanding/ shorting in the heat and when it's cold, it must contract and not short. But I have no idea what it could be (not an electrician) and when I go to a mechanic to explain what's wrong, they rarely listen to a woman trying to explain it - and they don't believe me when I say it works in winter but not the rest of the year.

    So, any help someone can give, I'd be obliged.
  • cantdodriveupscantdodriveups Member Posts: 2
    I had very similar issues with the driver side window, and a mechanic friend of mine took the door panel off, lubricated all the parts of the mechanism that moves the window up and down, especially the plastic bushings that slide in the rails. He also lubricated inside the rails that the actual glass window rides in on the sides. He also loosened the bolts that hold the rails that the bushings ride in a little, put the window all the way up, and then tightened them down again, hoping to keep it from binding at the top. It has been about 3 weeks in August in Louisiana and it has not failed yet. He used a marine type of grease for the rails with the bushings and a spray like WD40 in the rails with the glass.
  • davidi46davidi46 Member Posts: 2
    Recently, while driving my 2003 Ford Windstar on the road with the AC on, the cold air suddenly began blowing out of the defrost vents and 15 seconds later it began blowing out of the lower air vents (near the accelerator pedal). The cold air does this weird cycle every 5-10 minutes. The air also changes speeds (high and low) while this is happening. At the same time all the gauge needles are bouncing back and forth and all the lights (check engine, abs, brake light) turn on. My right front door window stopped working also. I hope someone can help me trouble shoot this problem. Thank you.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    Alternator and or Battery. Gauges bouncing back and forth are a tell tale sign.
  • davidi46davidi46 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you. I replaced the battery six months ago and the alternator two months ago. The alternator was refurbished though.
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