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So I went to boneyard, pulled one out of 1999 Town and Country, since I couldn't find the exact same year or part number. But I figured it had to support all the features of "last years" model... and after I installed it seemed to work fine, oh, and adding 12K miles to the odometer... small price to pay.
I notice that the remote key entry did not work with the replacement BCM. Is this for real and how do I fix that...take it to the dealer?? I am asking, because I don't know, but I can imagine this might be the case...keys go with the car(BCM) so to speak..I can imagine it might need to be "re-keyed".
Then I made the mistake of testing the ALARM, I locked my kid inside, saw the alarm indicator come on and then go out after 10 seconds (normal), then I told him to open the door. Alarm (horn, lights) came on as usual, but without the remote working I could not disable as usual! So I pulled the battery cable... will 30 minutes reset it? I hope so... enough to get it to the dealer tomorrow???
Any advice welcome.
Cheers!
If there is an easy way to "re-synch" the remote to the car I would love to try that, send along instructions. Or is this something only the dealer can do?
I also replaced right power door lock latch (little clutch on mechanism wears out, these should be tested with 12V battery first, if it sounds like something spinning, the clutch is worn, mechanism no good). Find one that just goes clunk/clunk like lock/unluck, I pulled 3 of them to get one good one.
I put 2 quarts of ATF+4 in, in increments of half quarts. The lurching problem went away and only a small transmission whine could be heard. Note that this van (as many current vehicles) does not have a transmission dip-stick to check fluid levels. Where the dip stick should be is a cap which reads "Dealer Service Only".
About 350 highway miles later, the transmission failed. I had parked it (at a rest stop) and when I came out 20 mins later, the van would barely move in D or R.
Towed it to the nearest Chrysler Dealer. Picked it up 5 days later with a rebuilt transmission installed. I purchased the 08 used with 15,000 miles on it. It had been an Enterprise rental prior. The warranty expired at 36,000, but Chrysler agreed to pay the balance of the work if I paid $500 deductible. The total bill was over $4,000.
The rebuilt tranmission carries a 3 yr/100,000 mile warranty.
I had the work done at Aurora Chrysler in Aurora, OH and I was pleased with their service. The sales manager even drove me to 30 mins round trip so I could drop off the rental car.
I would assume that Chrysler knows about some faulty transmissions to so quickly pay for the new one (mostly). If you hear a noise or feel any lurching in the transmission, get it to a dealer immediately.
Aside from the transmission here are the other problems I've had with the van:
- one of the fasteners that hold the overhead console/bins to the roof broke and was replaced under warranty.
- at around 25,000 miles, the rear brakes would bind (one one at a time). Both sets of roters, calipers, pads were replaced under warranty.
Overall I love the vehicle, but wish it was more reliable.
That may be a good thing. The 1.2L that was in my '73 128-SL was like a sewing machine compared to the 4-bangers that were coming out of Detroit at the time.
'Course, the engine was, by far, the best part of the car :shades: .
The local Dodge dealership quoted me a little over $400 dollars to replace one side.
If you need to replace the motor regulators then order the following Dorman (aftermarket) solutions:
741-823 (Drivers Side)
741-824 (Passenger Side)
I purchased these from Amazon. They seem to have the cheapest prices. Free shipping is a plus.
I have broke the white retainer clips inside the doors numerous times, the Dodge part # is - 6505292-AA. I found these clips in bulk at www.clipsandfasteners.com (P/N: A19386). Much cheaper than going through the dealership.
Also, I found this website that does a pretty good job showing you how to remove the door assemblies. See the following link:
http://www.bodyshopzone.com/archives/trim/door_panels/Dodge/Grand_Caravan_2002/d- p_Chrysler_minivan.html
Hope this helps. Thanks.
This is how I fixed it
---------------------------------
- What you need: Philips #2 Screwdriver - Small Flat Screwdiver - Wire Stripper and your choice of something to join the wire together (I used a insulated crimp wire connector that will take a 14/16 Gauge wire).
- Open the side door to the full open position.
- Use the Philips screwdriver to remove the cover (attached with 2 screws) to the power door motor.
- Remove the wire bundle from the guide on the motor to give you enough slack to work with the wires.
- I flexed the bundle of wires until the hazard lights started flashing like they would when the door was working properly (this may or may not work for you). That gave me an idea where the wire was broken. Our wire was broken about 2-4" away from the motor close to where the wire starts to enter the flexible plastic track. Our broken wire was the largest of the wires in the bundle it did not appear to have a colored line on the wire. It was also a clean break almost through all the insulation.
- If necessary - use the flat screwdriver to carefully pry the link on both sides of the plastic track to allow you to move it side to side to either inspect the wire or to work on it .. If your wire is broken further down the wiring track. It easily snaps back together so just be careful on removal and don't worry too much about this step.
- Once you've located the break - Strip about 1/4 inch from each side of the wire and join it together with the insulated crimping connector (make sure it's fully inserted) or you can solder a piece of wire (It appears to be a #16 gauge threaded wire) - make sure no wire is exposed after your fix (tape or use heat shrink tubing).
- Snap back any links and re-insert the wire bundle into guide the bottom of the motor. Screw back the motor cap.
Your door should now be fully operational again and shouldn't cost you more that $1 to fix and an hour of your time.
Hope this helps.
Has anyone out there have any experieces like this? I mean this dealership almost killed me and all they say is sorry. My wife is hesistant to ever drive this crap van again. Any recourse here???? Thanks
I used a battery charger to apply +12V directly to the motor. I could hear it hum, but there was no movement in the window. So, on a lark I removed the cable drive assembly from the motor (3 silver headed bolts). Once I pulled that away from the output gear of the motor, I again applied +12V to the motor and saw that it was working, in both directions. So, I put the cable drive drum back on the motor gear, bolted everything back together and, lo and behold, the window now works!!!
I lubricated the window track, not sure if maybe the problem was just a sticking pane of glass. I'm also wondering if maybe the cable was binding in the drum. I am leaving the door panel off for now in case the problem shows back up again.
My current hypothesis is the catalytic converter is broken, i.e. ceramic chips rattling around inside. Reasons:
1. At higher engine speeds the exhaust gas may hold the chips so they don't rattle.
2. It sounds exactly like sheet metal raps, but the heat shields are tight.
3. I read a post where a guy thought valve lifters, but no luck after replacing. I don't want another engine project, so that is not considered.
4. I had almost the same sound in my 96 Voyager 2.4L several years ago. I finally figured out it must be the catalytic converter, replaced for $200, and the noise disappeared. Also, we had barely passed emissions the time before, but with the new cat emissions were extremely low. Indeed, so near the limit I had to go to a special testing center the 2nd time (strict CA laws).
When I resolve my 02 T&C, I'll post the fix (not under Windows & Doors). Or someone replace their cat conv first and let me know.
mk.
Chrysler needs to own-up to the brake issue (under-sized brakes for wgt of van) and provide replacement free of charge or with a small deductible!
Other than these issues, the van is superb.
Dr. Thomson
they say it is impossible for the doors to open by themselves.
I'm really pissed off at the fact that Chrysler can get away with this faulty design.
2) the dealer is B.S. and there is a problem with doors.
Any ideas?
I have a very similar passenger power window problem in 2005 T&C. I can hear a hum without the door panel off, but the window doesn't budge.
Thanks in advance for your response. FJP
I am assuming the rear window drives are a lot like those for the power windows.
Caution - I recommend you use a couple of amp battery charger as the 12V source - not your car battery. It's much safer that way, should you accidently short something.
This has probably been discussed but I need help or suggestions. Anyways, I have a 2005 T&C standard- no bells and whistles just power windows and locks, I went to unlock my door by hitting the button on my key and nothing. I thought it was my key until I went in and hit my unlock switch on my door and nothing. I brought it up to my mechanic and he stated that it was my BCM. He said that he wiped out the memory and I should be fine, until when he didnt say. 4 days after the wipe out I now I have to bring it to a dealer but with a new issue that occurred. My back passager door does not unlock, even with trying to open manually and my trunk opens w/ my button on my key and locks as well. I didnt get the extended warranty because some of the issues I have had w/ this car was not cover by the warranty I did have. I really hate this car and believed I have a :lemon: and can't do anything about it, I've tried. Anyways if there is anyone out there that has had this problem and can suggest what they did and what happen I would appreciate. I really dont want to keep putting money in this heep of crap on wheels :mad:
This is the first real problem I've had with my T&C. Other than that, I really like this van.
Anyway, I have an appointment to have it looked at tomorrow. Is the BCM wipe expensive? I'm guessing no... I hope it works!
I was told by my mechanic a couple of hundred, which I dont want to sink another dollar into this. I don't want to call the dealer but I have to for my son's sake, he's in the back seat and I'm afraid of my locks freezing up, which wouldn't surprise me if the did. Let me know how you make out and what was wrong w/ it. Thanks