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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

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Comments

  • concerned7concerned7 Member Posts: 2
    The latches which are going into Chysler minivans since at least August 2008 are not made with certified material. They are being supplied by a Chinese company named Jinyi. Instead of using approved material Jinyi has mixed in recycled material. This causes the latches to break easily. These latches are being bought by Magna International the Load Floor supplier to Chrysler. Magna knows the latches do not meet standards, but they are a huge cost save. They have not told Chrysler of the change.
  • tedebeartedebear Member Posts: 832
    Link to an official (not some blog) source, please.
  • srt10srt10 Member Posts: 15
    Concerned7, how is it that you know that the latches do not meet the standards and Chrysler does not? I have owned Dodge and Chrysler products for a long time and I have always found the quality and workmanship superior to Ford and GM. Now I know every manufacturer uses some Chinese parts, but I have always been happy with Chrysler’s use of these parts. Have you ever seen the plastic dash and knobs in some GM products? They almost look fake.
  • concerned7concerned7 Member Posts: 2
    There are many Chinese suppliers that are very good. You would probably be surprised at how may of the parts come from China. More than just a few knobs. However some of the suppliers switch material to keep the price low. The currency exchange rate is hurting the Chinese companies as it strengthens against the dollar. So some resort to cutting corners. U.S. suppliers do the the same thing but not on the same scale. Chrysler doesn't know because they purchase the entire floor from Magna. Once the individual parts are initially approved they do not keep track until there is a problem. I used to work for the U.S. sales representative of this particular Chinese company and have intimate knowledge of everything they do.
  • srt10srt10 Member Posts: 15
    Very interesting. I did know that a lot of parts came from China, it does make sense in this age where the bottom line has a huge influence on what we buy. The switch tactics don't suprise me considering what happened 2 years ago with the whole Mattel toy scandal. I also agree that the currency exchange rate is hurting the Chinese. Imagine if the CNY wasn't controlled by the goverment? That would be the end of China as we know it.
  • cfransencfransen Member Posts: 6
    Just found out that the pinging noise we have when we turn off our engine to our Chrysler 2008 T&C is a result of a bad catalytic converter and/or resonator as per a Chrysler service bulletin through dealer connect/service/tech connect/case #K82543424.
  • lbokalboka Member Posts: 1
    shanmd, #29: This is EXACTLY what my van is doing. It is in the shop right now because I refuse to pick it up until they can tell me what is wrong with it. TWICE it has stalled when I am driving trying to merge onto the highway! Both times other cars were able to go around me - who knows if I will be so lucky the 3rd time. The service tech told me "we hooked it up to the computer and didn't find any codes" , "it's hard to find the problem when it is intermittent". That's all??? In a situation this serious I find this completely unacceptable. Have you made any progress. Any info would be greatly appreciated!
  • benandembenandem Member Posts: 1
    I know this an old post but I thought I would help out any new Chrysler/Dodge owners. I have a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country Touring and recently the power door locks stopped working electronically. Manually they still worked but that was it. So with the help of this blog I figured out it is a common problem. So I called my local Chrysler dealership and scheduled a repair and told them what was going on and that I needed the computer reset permanently rather than having to disconnect the battery every other day. So took it in and they said this is a known issue (they called it a bulletin) and they needed to "flash" the computer and it cost $86 plus tax. Took them a couple of hours to do. So hope that helps. As a temporary fix if you disconnect your battery for a few minutes it does reset it.
  • dovensdovens Member Posts: 4
    I took my caravan in and they shouldn't have charged for the Flash. Does Microsoft charge of their upgrades. But more importantly the flash didn't work. We needed to have the entireBody Control Module replaced. When they did that it was a bad unit and the same thing happened. When I returned to the dealer they tested the car with their meter and it said the passenger door lock was broken. But in reality the meter wasn't reading correctly because we had pulled the plug on the battery and door locks were working fine. So they refunded our money for the second visit and sent our BCM out and returned with a new one. Now we haven't had any problems. It is the BCM alone and nothing else except your time and money. Their meters are faulty with these connections. Good Luck!!!
    Cynthia
  • roizroiz Member Posts: 2
    What problems have you had with the pwer doors? Do they open on their own?
  • grega3grega3 Member Posts: 2
    On my 2008 Town and Country Limited the front brake pads wore down to the warning strip / "sensor" at 8,000 miles. The dealer replaced the pads because the vehicle had under 10,000 miles. Now at 16,000 They have worn down again. This time my wife didn't hear the warning sound and the pads wore down to the rivets and gouged out the inside of the passenger side rotor. The driver side pads were not yet worn down to the warning strip, but were getting close, and the rear pads after 16,000 miles look like they could go 100,000 miles without needing replacement. I'd like to know if anyone else is having to replace front pads at this rate??? Also, any ideas as to what might be causing them to wear so fast?
  • usavetusavet Member Posts: 9
    We bought a T&C in april 08, brakes and rotors shot at 20,000 miles, at least 75 percent highway miles. This is ridiculous, I have never had a vehicle do that ever and I have owned some crap!! But this one takes the cake!!!! Several other problems as well, radio doesn't work right half the time, power doors don't work right half the time either!! All this plus the chrome is peeling off the grill and the poor fit and finish and rattles!!! The only reason we bought this is because nobody would trade for our 2005 Durango but them!!! By the way the Durango went 48k on its brakes and rotors!! BUY A HONDA OR A TOYOTA IT'S WORTH THE EXTRA MONEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :sick:
  • roizroiz Member Posts: 2
    Surely this car is still under warranty? Also check your State statutes for Lemon Law as well and document everything you do with the repair of your vehicle.
  • samnoesamnoe Member Posts: 731
    I agree that there are so many problems with the Chrysler minivans. I feel so bad for them, in the bad situation they fell into.

    To add to your list, my left (driver side) sliding door started last week to make very bad squeaks over each bump or pothole (like a 12-year-old van).

    I don't know what to do. I don't have the time to schedule appointments and then spend time at the dealer for hours or days, only to hear that "they can never duplicate my problems". I am already sick and tired of these stuff.

    The only reason I can not see myself going away from Chrysler for a while is the entertainment options they provide like no other van. I wish Toyota (or should I say HYUNDAI?) copies that and I have some more choices.

    Chrysler, again: PLEASE WAKE UP! IT'S LATE!!
  • noni4noni4 Member Posts: 6
    Yes, I am having the same problem. @ 17,000 miles I need front brakes and rotors. How crazy is this? I never seen nothing like it. Today 11/19/08 I was told this is common for this car by the guy who handles the coordination. Last week after bringing in the car 3 other times for a problem with the caliber sticking on the rear tire, which after demanding that it be replaced, it was done because of course, they couldn't find a problem. I told him today that I was "fed up" with all of this, the car has been in the shop on average of twice a month since September of last year. I talked with the owner last week about the lemon law and he was going to call me back, well, that was last week and I still haven't heard a thing. When I purchased the vehicle he mentioned he was going to give this one to his Aunt and I said, "I should have let you".. The other problems keep mounting. Prior to the brakes the gear shift handle was in my hands and I was told just to tighten the screw. After asking 3 times to have that fixed they finally replaced it. Now we'll see how long it'll take until the defrosters get fixed, it's winter in Illinois now. I do not recommend this vehicle to anyone unless the live next to the dealer as this vehicle will be there alot.... :cry:
  • cfli1688cfli1688 Member Posts: 3
    power window on 2003 tc xi will not wind down

    Is it possible for me to fix this? Thanks.
  • timothyftimothyf Member Posts: 40
    Does anyone know if there is a TSB out on the defroster not working or premature wear on the brakes on the 2008 T&C Limited? We left the van outside in the cold and the defroster stopped working for my wife.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Wait, Chrysler issues TSBs? Amazing. I thought they simply denied the existence of any widespread problems in their vehicles. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    Do NOT buy a Toyota. The Sienna is NOT worth the extra money. My 2006 Sienna with 26,440 miles now has the "popping" noise in the driver's door indicating the weld of the door stop is breaking. Cost of repair: an outrageous $ 2,000 if it occurs after the warranty expires.

    Toyota Sienna is overpriced JUNK that has fewer nice features than Chrysler minivans. :sick:
  • erin75erin75 Member Posts: 2
    i purchased this vehicle 3 weeks ago used, 26573 miles, from Indianapolis dealer, i live in wis. the day we drove it home, it pulled to the right, then withing a couple days the front defroster went out, then a couple days later the radio shut down.
    i called indianapolis dealer, he set me up with my local dealer to have an alignment done with indiana delaer would pay, and then also scheduled the other repair under warranty. then before i get in there i hear all this clunking and rolling sounds from under the floor boards, after hitting bumps in the road. (i heard this on my 02 t&c as well). at my appointmnet they hear no clunking of course, but did find heat shield on steering rack was looose, and tightened, found rear brake lines rubbin on body, and adjusted them. radio was repaired with computer flash update, defroster need new control head (on order) and the alignment they said was not out of alignment so they rotated the tires, and now it pulls to the left. i will go back when control head comes in and tell them it pulls to the left. as far as the clunking (sounds like from drivers front end) i had this on 02, spend about 2,000 dollars and still had the sound, i will not go through this again. i googled town and country bulletins and found 15 you guys should do the same. i will be bringing in all bulletins to the dealer and having them performed. ANYBODY have any clunking/rolling sounds from under the hood around the drivers tire/front end?
  • erin75erin75 Member Posts: 2
    yes i joined the same day, as i was on internet looking for help, found site and joined. Don't know but, i would think that this is normal.
    not trashing chrysler,
    not trashing indianapolis dealer at all. more the local. if you read it, indy dealer set me up here locally to get pulling problem resolved. but other problems arose during this period of time before i got to scheduled appointment. so i went to my local dealer, they rotated the tires for my pulling to the right problem..... guess what now it pulls to the left just as bad as to the right. still waiting to hear back when the control or whatever its called is in for the defroster issue. now at a week, and i still have that horrible clunking, which sounds like it comes from front left of vehicle. last post i said i had this on my 02 van spent couple thousand and still no fix.. any help would be great.
    so no credibility problem, just blogging my issues. am i in the wrong forum!!
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    WRONG. Toyota tries to cover up problems. ;)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Look, how many times do I have to tell you that the sludge in your engine was not due to a design flaw but to owner negligence? :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • eriefishingeriefishing Member Posts: 13
    Our 2008 T&C Touring with 4,800 miles has developed a stragne smell that is noticed inside and outside the vehicle, but I have yet to discover the exact location. The smell is noticed after the vehicle has been driven, sist for a short time, then re-enterred and driven again. My wife descibes the smell as an elephants pen or dead animal, to me its smells like something is buring. Since I have smelled it from the outside it makes me wonder if something is rubbing somewhere. Any suggestions is appreciated.
  • boogiemanpaboogiemanpa Member Posts: 1
    Hello Lance76, Just read your post..... I have the exact same problem with the water leaking on the passenger side grab handle. I am trying to figure out where it could possibly be coming from but can't figure it out. The sunroof drip tray is not clogged and I can't figure out where else it could possibly be coming from. It is somehow running down the headliner, then down the plastic trim piece where the grab handle is. From there is leaking on to the floor. I was hoping you may have found the solution for yours . Did you have any luck finding he problem? Please let me know . I could use all the help I can get on this one. Thanks a bunch!
  • wp746911wp746911 Member Posts: 26
    eriefishing- my first guess would be you had a plastic bag you ran over which stuck to the muffler/some hot part of the bottom and started to melt- sometimes you can find it and pull it off- otherwise it should go away with time
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    I have not had any sludge problems with my Sienna engine but I think the driver's side front door welds are about the break. :sick:
  • jamestownguyjamestownguy Member Posts: 4
    did anyone you know that the new 2009 Volks Wagon Rutan mini van is a spin off of the new 2008 and 2009 Dodge Grand Caravan and Chrysler Town&Country? same engine and transmission. all is the same except for the tail lights and grille with the VW name stamp! how sad and i test drove the van and it WILL mark my words be just as troublesome as chrysler vans!
  • abutcherabutcher Member Posts: 33
    Yes, I knew this the first time I saw a Routan on the road. It has the same sideglass, beltline, shifter knob, etc...
  • stlwinnerstlwinner Member Posts: 1
    I've read through the posts but I'm not sure that my problems are the same. The driver's side sliding door will pop open but will not slide open or closed. When closed manually, the motor will pull the back side in fully. The passenger's side will not pop open, but the motor will pull the back side in fully once manually closed. Both door will unlock. The driver's side stopped working about 2 months ago. The passenger's side stopped today. Any clue what is wrong?
  • munsonbmunsonb Member Posts: 2
    problems, problems also here..
    our 2005 T & C touring van has door issues.

    the one on the left will open but not close all the way. what is up with that?
    Our rear hatch has been acting up even longer: when I hit the remote either inside the van or key- it will get almost up and than start going back down to close. I than have to tap the remote a 2nd time to go all the way up. Oh and I cannot close it manually anymore either..
  • geinstedergeinsteder Member Posts: 2
    Here is a quick description of the problem. When the power switch is pressed either from the key or upfront the door will go up about 3/4 of the way and stop then come back down. I need to stop it and try it again than it will work. Even when it is up all the way sometimes it wont let me pull it back down manually. It feels like its stuck up. I need to push a power button to get it to come down. So with that said what is going on/

    Thanks everyone. 2005 t&c touring
  • geinstedergeinsteder Member Posts: 2
    Here is a quick description of the problem. When the power switch is pressed either from the key or upfront the door will go up about 3/4 of the way and stop then come back down. I need to stop it and try it again than it will work. Even when it is up all the way sometimes it wont let me pull it back down manually. It feels like its stuck up. I need to push a power button to get it to come down. So with that said what is going on? The lift gate arms seem to be hoding it up well.

    Thanks everyone. 2005 t&c touring
  • backwoods5backwoods5 Member Posts: 1
    Don't get caught up in the Toyota HYPE, I did. I have an 04 Siennas, 62,000 miles. Two sets of tires already, On vacation in Arizona and just found out its going to cost me over $2000 for A/C, Brakes are spongy (scary) 3 shops state they are OK (both front and rear have been replaced), Not NEAR as stable as my prior D/C in windy conditions or around Semis etc., Window switch don't work properly (been replaced) . Sliding doors squeak, rattles etc. Aluminum wheels had much more corrosion in less than 1 year (8000 miles) than all my other vehicles had with 3 or 4 years old. And yes the door stops are oil canning, major problem and cost.

    For those who may think the Toyota Vans are much better, I though I may have gotten a Lemon until I checked out some of their Forums, they have major issues. My D/C had over 110,000 miles and far less total cost in repairs than this Siennna with half the miles.

    After reading the issues with T/C. I'm not sure which maker to go with. Definitively getting rid of my Toyota as soon as I return to my Permanent Residence.
  • hansiennahansienna Member Posts: 2,312
    First choice is a Chrysler T&C or Grand Caravan...but if not, buy the HONDA Odyssey. ;)

    Toyota Siennas are overpriced and the options are exorbitantly overpriced. Tires, windshield wiper blades, and other wear items on my 2006 Sienna LE had to be replaced with half the miles and age compared to the more reliable 2002 Chrysler T&C LX minivan I owned.
  • artgpoartgpo Member Posts: 483
    My son's 2008 Sienna XLE is over a year and half old and not one problem. The fit and finish are flawless. It is more quiet than my 2006 Odyssey. I prefer the Odyssey's handling but the Sienna rides just a little better.
  • squishysquishy Member Posts: 1
    The passenger sliding door will only power open a short ways then must be moved manually.

    Does anyone know why this happens and if there is an easy fix?

    Thanks.

    image
  • myouth3myouth3 Member Posts: 2
    It seems like everyone is having an electrical issue. Does anyone have a solution if the door lock button can't be used either? It's frozen and doesn't move either with the electrical buttons or manually. The passenger door can't be opened at all.
  • jrivjriv Member Posts: 1
    i am having the same problem, have you figured it out??
  • joepeterson56joepeterson56 Member Posts: 95
    It sounds like a mechanical problem as opposed to electrical. If it were an electrical problem, you would still be able to operate the locks manually from the inside of the door or with the key from the outside. You will need to pop the panel off from the inside and check the mecanism. It sounds like one of the rods inside the door had either opoed out of the plastic retaining clip, or the assembly was loose enough to move out of position and jam up. It is a very easy fix, the hard part will be removing the panel inside the van, if you have stow and go seating it is even easier then having to remove the clip in seats so you have room to work inside.
  • jagerocksjagerocks Member Posts: 1
    I 'm having the same problem, I've checked the sensor on the sliding arm at the bottom, but nothing.......WHAT did you find wrong with yours and how did you solve the door just popping out and not pulling or openign the door problem. Thanks
  • tportertexastportertexas Member Posts: 6
    I have the 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT and on a cold start up I hear a loud vibrating noise that last for up to a minute. I have had it to the dealer service center 4 times.. I am takin it back tomorrow!! They keep saying at cold start up they dont hear this noise.. yet I got it back today and 5 hours after no start, sure enough at start up it did it again!. My husband says it sounds like something with the exhaust. ANyone else having a problem like this?? Please help! Very frustrated and sorry I purchased this thing! P.S. I have had the sliding door problem too! Had my daughters purse taken one time when the door came back open! So sad!
  • gtgirleegtgirlee Member Posts: 1
    This happened to me last summer and cost a couple-hundred to fix. Look down in the sides where it has something that looks kind of like a plastic bike chain... that is likely where the problem is coming from esp. if it is just one door. What happens is crumbs, dirt, dust, rocks etc get in there and inside that is wiring for your door, something gets pinched etc... and wala, ISSUE! I reccomend taking it to the dealer and having them check but I had the SAME problem. Door would pop open and not slide back.
  • artworx76artworx76 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Boogiemanpa,

    I just read your post...I am having the same problem. I just purchased a 06 Dodge GC a month ago and have the leak in the exact place you mentioned.(the first heavy rain since the purchase) Were you able to find a solution? I would really love any info you could throw my way. Thank you .
  • tportertexastportertexas Member Posts: 6
    I first posted this several weeks ago. It is still doing it and seems worse. My husband keeps saying it has to do with the exhaust, but the dealership service center can not seem to find it, or it does not do it when they have it for a couple days at a time. Just thought I'd re post to see if anyone else is having a problem with a vibrating humming type noise at start up and lasts a few minutes. I actually think im hearing it while driving now too. thx
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Does it have a metallic, tinny sound? If so, it may be a loose heat shield somewhere along the exhaust system.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tportertexastportertexas Member Posts: 6
    I will def. ask the dealership guys to check it out. They say they have checked everything under there in the exhaust and it all looks good. But I'll tell them to look! Thanks..
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,780
    Well, sometimes those heat shields can be tricky. For instance, I have one on my car that vibrates, but it is not "loose" in the sense that there is a nut that needs tightening. In this case, the shield just resonates with the vibration from the engine and produces a sound. If I bend it just a little, the sound stops for a while.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hcederlofhcederlof Member Posts: 3
    My motor for the passenger side front door window of my 2005 Grand Voyager died and I bought a used one.
    While replacing the motor the window slid down and I dropped the central part from where all the cables in the mechanic part comes out from and I now need to find a way to set it up again so I can first of all make the window stay up (without duct tape) and secondly use it again.
    Can anyone please describe whow this is done?
    Unfortunately this is not described in the Haynes manuals.

    Thanks
  • 356356 Member Posts: 4
    I bought my TC Limited last July and have now passed 10,000 miles with NO problems whatsoever. Not one problem has surfaced, and this is the first car I have owned which has not needed air added to the tires ever. I am really pleased with the 4.0 Liter engine. If I take it real easy it gets better mileage than my old 3.8 did and I have plenty of acceleration when needed. So far the worst tankful has been 17mpg in February and the best mileage was 28mpg on a level 200 mile portion of the New York State Thruway with only a slight side wind. 25mpg is easy to get at 65-70mph. I do take it easy on the accelerator. Cheers, Bye from Vic in Westport MA
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