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Comments
2. Low coolant sensors were common problems on the first E/T models. If you are still getting check engine lights, then it needs to be diagnosed. ANY time the CE lights, there is a code stored. There are different methods of retrieval and some techs are not well trained enough to retrieve the intermittent codes. Or too lazy. If they can't read the codes, take it some where else!
3. It is common to confuse the coolant lamp and battery lamps, this is a typical complaint, and partly Ford's fault because they made the two lamp cutouts too similar in shape. Are you sure you're not seeing the coolant light? If it is the battery light, then your belt tension needs to be checked. You may have a slipping alternator drive belt. Often the case when the light only comes on after startup in cold/wet weather.
3 (b?). I'll give the old Dr Bob Newhart psychiatric advice: "Don't do that!!!" Steve is right, you shouldn't hold any steering all the way at the stops. Ford steering pumps tend to be a bit noisier that other makes, but it's usually normal.
4. Don't do that!
5. Since I don't know how big your tank is, I can't confirm that you mileage is low. But if you are certain it is, then it could be related to your check engine light. There were a lot of PCM programming issues and a few other things like intake leaks on the first E/Ts, you could be having a problem like that, assuming you've eliminated all the obvious stuff like driving style or bad gas.
6. Don't know. You could indeed have a loose suspension bolt, bad bushing, loose exhaust parts, etc. If the noise gets worse, have it inspected.
7. DON'T give Ford any more of your hard-earned money for their crappy rotors! They use a lightweight, expensive alloy in their rotors that, when everything is lined up perfectly, works great. But if you have a lug nut mistorqued, a hub miscut but 1/1000 inch, a tire slightly off balance, etc., what you have are a ridiculously costly set of rotors that chew up like tinfoil. Do yourself a favor and buy a good quality set of aftermarket rotors, like Bendix, next time, and save over half your cost while getting better parts.
8. Some late model Fords have the parking brake adjustment actually mounted in the handbrake assembly. I don't know if that's the case with the E/T, but if so, then the handbrake istelf has to be replaced because no amount of adjustments at the wheel will fix it.
I'm definetly not buying mazda again.
My wife's 2004 XLT is making some noises that I don't know if I should just live with them or have them looked at.
1) When parked on even the mildest incline with the rear end facing downhill, the emergency brake will creak and groan whenever you put something in the vehicle (including an occupant)
2) Steering makes a ratcheting type sound when turning at slow speeds (i.e. around a corner in the city, pulling into a parking space)
3) Front shocks pronouncedly "whoosh" when going over speed bumps.
Maybe it's just me, but I thought $25000 vehicles that were 4 months old should run quiet.
Hope this helps
Odie
I began to doubt whether this repair was legitimate when the check engine light came on just two days later. I returned to the dealer and they found a problem with the EGR, IAC, or MAF (I forget which one) and they fixed this for free, even though the car is 4K miles and six months out of warranty. Since they had the car for more than a day I questioned if they were just covering for something that they missed last time, but I felt that they were trying to make things right and it didn’t cost me any more. I also got a free rental of a GMC Canyon, so it gave me a chance to test drive a potential car for my daughter.
A few weeks later I received a recall notice from Mazda stating that the PCM needed to be reprogrammed to fix a problem that other Tribute/Escape owners were having with their vehicles stalling during deceleration. While I had not experienced this problem, I took advantage of this since reading several message boards I found references to transmission problems like mine being resolved by flashing the PCM. I also had the check engine light come on for a third time which was attributed to a pinched (crimped?) plug wire which was fixed at no charge. Well, after a week the car runs great, with much smoother shifting and no recurrence of the shudder that I felt when the car was in overdrive. I also had a small increase (8%) in gas mileage and look forward to seeing if this improves during a trip to Philadelphia this weekend. I have been getting around 17mpg with local commuting and 23mpg on the highway.
As mentioned previously, if you receive a recall notice from Mazda, the PCM flash is FREE!!!. I don't know, however, if the recall affects every 2001 Tribute, so you may need to check the NHTSA website to verify which VINs are included.
Overall, we still like this car and just hope that the PCM flash has cured the issues that we have been having. With luck the upgrade corrected a bunch of ills that were causing problems.
I'm kind of dissapointed at having to replace the rack at such a low mileage. They had the rack in stock, but are waiting for a new seat track to come in so they can do both jobs at the same time.
BTW, they did the PCM reflash, even though I wasn't having any problems. Can't say I really feel a difference.
Do you guys think that this list reflects real world? I am surprised that the Escape is fifth worst because it's regarded as one of the best small SUVs. We want to buy an Escape, but such (bad) news scares me.
The complaint index is based on a ratio of the number of complaints for each vehicle to the sales of that vehicle.
The problem with this is that any one can make multiple complaints with the NHTSA, whether you own the car or not. The web site doesn't make it clear whether the dupes have been weeded out and VINs etc. aren't required to be entered when you file a NHTSA complaint.
So I think you have to take the complaint index with the usual grain of salt. Ditto advertising.
Steve, Host
Jimmy and Sarah???
[Aside: Where'd he go, and why?]
One of the law firm locations in the linked ad is in my neighborhood, but the sign outside the building has been changed. Appears they're not located there any more.
with aftermarket. I went with the ProStop brand sold at Pep Boys for boh components. The total
cost for parts was ~$110.00 and I had a mechanic
friend do the work with me. The pads are ceramic- enhanced and the rotors are turntable, unlike the Motorcraft brands. Guess what ? After one (1) week no brake dust on the front wheels and stopping power seems as good as before. If I had
gone to the dealer as before, then I'd have paid $300.00 for the parts alone. Definitely worth it to go with aftermarket, though Raybestos and EBC
make pads and rotors at a higher price, I opted to go with the store brand. I paid my mechanic buddy $100.00 for his time, so I still came out
$260.00 ahead of the last front brake job from the dealer. Rear brake shoes have ~50% wear left on them at this point.
Since I changed my spark plugs @50K miles, I've been getting worse gas mileage than before. ~16-17
mpg current in town to 18-19 before. Spark plug
type is correct Motorcraft part, can't figure out why. Truck runs fine after PCM upgrade at dealer,
but plugs were changed after PCM flash. Mechanic
friend seems to think it may be oxygenated fuel for the area/summer months. I pour a bottle of
BG 44K in the gas tank every 5K miles to keep carbon build-up to minimum. Any ideas ?
plug gap was until after installation. It is
.054 for the 100K plugs. He couldn't remember
what he set the plugs at, but he thought it was .054. Well, you may be right, I'm going to
pull a front-plug tonight and check the gap.
The three front plugs are easy to get to once the
decorative valve-cover is removed. The three
rear plugs are a pain because you have to remove
the upper/lower intake manifold and replace the
gaskets. The process took about 1-hour because so much plumbing had to be disconnected and
reconnected again.
wear out and start causing underpinning noises,
i.e, clanking at low speed, coming to stops, and going over bumps. Originally thought it may be springs or shocks. However, it turns out to be
a part simply called a 'link-assembly'. It connects to the front strut and front sway bar
parallel to the strut. The units are 'ambi' and and cost $20.15 each from a Ford dealer. Worn bushings and clanking sound are the result.
Since there are no grease-fittings, I tried injecting some grease, which worked for about 1-week, but the noise is back. As I understand, it is not a safety issue but just a
noise annoyance. However, the dealer warned that
when changing the links, my alignment may be affected slightly. Shouldn't be a big deal changing them out though.
Since I haven't had many problems I really haven't had my hands inside the engine compartment. Any comments on the difficulty of these repairs? Thanks!
parts. The Ford brake pads cause excessive dust
and the rotors are non-turnable. Ask for Raybestos brand and if you can afford it, the ceramic enhanced pads, they're worth the money.
You may wnat to have the shop (if they do other mechanical work) if they can do your 50K service, it may be cheaper than at the dealer. But ask them specifically how much each service costs. Usually you get a better price in bundle package of services. Cleaning the throttle body and changing the cabin filter aren't difficult, but can be frustrating especially if your engine drowns out in intake-cleaner fluid of you can't get the cowl off to replace the filter element.
May be best to pay the labor since they're doing some other maintenance items anyhow.
As for the cabin filter, if you have never serviced it, are you sure you really have one? It does not come standard with the car. I added it myself, and it's a pretty simple job. Instructions should come with the replacement piece.
Good heads up!
Wierd sound when turning, or sometimes even when stopping rapidly (especially on cold days): First of all, I had 2 problems that attributed to this problem, and I am guessing that most tribute/escape owners have experienced this as well. When the noise comes when it is cold, it could be the steering fluid, it doesn't have time to warm up to work to full efficiency. OR, it could have been a crack/shrinkage/loose belt. I am not sure what the belt is exactly called, but I was told this by a trusted local non-dealer mechanic. But when I went back to the dealer to get it replaced under warrenty, I was told otherwise, however, the noise seem to have disappeared for a short while after the weather got warmer. OR, it could be a lack of steering fluid, which I refilled(after it nearly bottomed out) in the summer when the noise re-appeared and all dealers failed to find the problem. Yes, it does sound stupid,the fluid be the first thing the mechanics check.
Banging, "clonk"ing sound when turning, driving over moderately rough roads or speedbumps: I got that checked out yesterday, and found out that the "control arm" on the passenger side was "out of place", or messed up, in another words, because a bearing or something got worn out. The 2 components of the bars are basically lying on top of one another, when they should be separated by a plastic looking component. I have the extended warranty, the dealer are ordering the parts and hopefully the extended warranty will cover it.
Costly brakes repairs: Been there, done that. If you got another brand of brake pads/rotors that you think are good, please post.
Also, have anyone changed their OEM rims as of yet? mine seem to be almost unmachineable (it has too many of those weights on it), so I am thinking of replacing them. Or if you did, did you get the OEM ones? if so, whats the price? or aftermarket, recommandations?
Thanks all,
Ron.
The Motorcraft battery seems strong now, but summers eat batteries up here and spit them out
wholesale. I still haven't pulled one of the plugs yet to check the gap, but it may be the culprit.
Has anyone else been told that Raybestos makes Pro Stop? I was told at Pep Boys that they did but haven't found any written support on it.
Thanks to everyone taking the time to reply to my thread.
I HOPE THE DEALER/TECHNICIAN DID NOT LIE TO ME... they said he re-upgraded my PCM computer module... so far it fixes the problem....
ANY SUGGESTION FOR THE BEST TIRE... with AA grade... with less traction noise ?
ago. So far so good, but I didn't really have the problems dscribed in previous posts. I changed the IAC about 1-yr. ago after near impossible starts for about 2 wks. Mechanic friend diagnosed it as IAC. Took about 5-min. to replace. I just changed over to new brake rotors and ceramic pads and does it ever make a difference in brake-dust elimination. They are fantastic. The aftermarket-brand I bought was cheaper that the Motorcraft pads and rotors too.
A friend recently bought an '05 Tribute V6. Seems like Ford and Mazda have changed their brake hardware; namely larger rotors, calipers,
and pads. Definitely looks different than my set-up. They seem heftier, and in the month he's had the vehicle, guess what ????, minimal brake dust.
So, it seems that Ford may be listening to dealer and purchaser complaints and problems. The engine also seems more powerful and gets better mileage to boot. He says he's averaging 20-21 mpg in daily mixed-driving, some stop-go, tollway mileage.
I am currently averaging 17 mpg in daily commute, little to no highway mileage except when I get it on the highway and wring it out. I believe I may have a problem with the spark-plug gap from previous spark-plug change, but am unsure. Unless the upgraded PCM flash made the mileage worse, but I can't see that happening. I've kept
the injectors and intake system clean too.
A co-worker visited the dealer for an oil change and they told her she needed new front brakes and the rotors turned at 21k miles.
I thought that was pretty low mileage, so I came here for a second opinion.
The nonturnable rotors is strange engineering. Does that apply to all Escape rotors, and does 21k seem reasonable on a 2003 Escape for new front pads? I don't think she's unreasonably hard on her brakes. You can save me from jacking up her car and taking off one of the front tires to take a look myself.
Thanks all.
18+ before PCM flash. I'm going to call the dealership and ask if the updated PCM flash may have caused an unexpected drop in MPG. May be worth a call to ask. Also, I was talking with
a mechanic who indicated that spark plug gap is
less critical on modern cars with computers than 10-20 yrs. ago., so my mileage may not be affected at all if I pull the plugs and attempt
to re-gap (front 3-plugs are breeze, back 3-plugs are a pain).
Concerning the posts on brakes, yes, the brakes
may need to be changed as early as 21K. I had my first change at 24K. Yes, the 2003 models should be the 'non-turnable' variety of rotors. Go with Raybestos or ProStop aftermarket, they're cheaper
and are turnable. Go with the matching ceramic-enhanced pads, they're worth it, and by the way cheaper that the Motorcraft pads. Also, they cause
much-less wheel dusting, which is great between care washes.
Front stabilizer link diagnosed as problem with my front-end noises too. Will change them with a mechanic friend. They're not that expensive but the bushing were out. Plan on changing them if you've got 40-60K miles and are hearing a rumbling sound at low speed or over bumps. Apparently, these parts are not manufactured to last just like the IAC which I changed out 1-year
ago was Motorcarft problematic. It'd be nice if Ford could engineer 100K from some of these parts.
They have already done the computer flash TWICE and reset the idle. However, the car still stalls occassionally. Especially when switching gears, mostly into reverse. It does not normally happen while decelerating (as the recall said) and has no regular pattern. It may go for 2 weeks without stalling and then stall 3 times in one afternoon. So, the dealer never seems to see the problem. Does this sound familar to anyone? I'm a bit desperate for help, because the car legally qualifies as a lemon at this point, but I do not wish to go through the legal battles of having a lemon, I just want a car that works.
Thanks
I'd try another dealer if I were you. Sounds like the one you're taking it to doesn't have a clue.
It actually sounds like something's wrong with your transmission but, then again, I'm not a mechanic.
don't want to lead you astray on any diagnosis.
My problem was diagnosed as the IAC (Part was ~$50.00 Motorcraft but was bought at O'Reilly's;
cheaper than dealer). I have had the PCM flash
done per recall, but curiously, am getting bad MPG. I don't know if it's attributable to the PCM upgrade or not.
Am I supposed to expect that the safety features will actually work if I need them! Give me a break. I can't wait to get rid of this peace of junk. Good luck with the Explorer.
steve_ "2005 Ford Escape: Problems & Solutions" Apr 27, 2004 11:45am
Sometimes owners of the latest and greatest don't want to read about problems with older models though.
(That's the one you mean, right?)
Steve, Host
Thanks.
According to Edmunds Appraiser, $8,900 is a good price for a 2001.
Rizzite = Uses the Rizzo Method (I myself included)
http://e46fanatics.com/faq/rizzo.html
Odie
If I were you, I would ask my dealer to lift the car with a person in the driver seat, have them start the car to listen the transmission.