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Comments
I haven't heard of any problems with the third party regulators. I use the logic that if GM's window regulators are so good why did they fail in the first place. Basically you are replacing a poorly design part with another poorly designed part. At least with the third party, I see some savings in the pocketbook.
Nevertheless, You need to check the wiring, specifically the splices both yours and the other guys.
Did you ohm out the sensor heater at the sensor? It is a simple heater with a low ohm value say 12 ohms. You need a digital meter with a high input impedance around a O2 sensor.
Did you measure the voltage at the sensor for the heater. Should be 12 volts for a bit after starting. It warms the heater to make the sensor do its thing sooner, therefore less emissions.
For instance
A 2000 has a black, purple pink and tan on sensor 1 and sensor 2 have the same colors, but tan and ppl have white tracer strips on them. Either way, the pnk and blk are the heater for both with blk being sensor ground. the rest find their way back to the PCM.
So with needles or such back prob the connector for the heater wires and start up, you shoud get 12 volts if not then the wiring is bad.
edit
How did you connect it up if the de-tructions did not give accurate colors, Ie. did they tell you which 2 wires were heater and which were sensor?
cheers
I have had problems with cranking for about 4-5 seconds before it will start when in the morning and worse when it is cold out. Also problems with it stalling after start up if I back out of a parking spot and let off the gas to put in gear and when slowing down at a light especially bad if I don't let it warm up enough. Once I have driven it for about 5 min it doesn't have any stalling problems.
The other day it started up fine after work and I was driving down the street and it just stalled out while driving normally down the road at like 60Km/h, this time it would not re-start at all. It cranks just fine but it's almost like it is not getting fuel or wanting to start to run at all - just keeps cranking. So i am kind of thinking it may be a fuel pump issue or something where fuel is not getting itno the engine. When I turn the car on accessory I think I hear the fuel pump start-up but I can't really tell.
My question is if the Crankshaft position sensor is faulty could it cause the car to not start at all like this or would it try to spark and start and then stall. Basically should I start with looking at a problem with it getting fuel or try the crankshaft position sensor.
I know there is probably some problem with the crankshaft sensor as the Engine light was on at my last oil change about a month ago and they read the codes and codes are:
P1811 - max adapt/ long shift
P0122 - Tpor Appsensor 1 circuit short/low
p0131 - o2 signal low bank 1 sensor
p0300 - random misfire detect
p0385 - ckp sensor 1 ckt short low
Any advise would be appreciated. Since this car is pretty much on it's last legs I don't want to spen a fortune fixing it or even towing it to a garage, but if it's a cheap fix and I can do it get the winter out of it I will be happy.
btw - my other common intrigue problems just to share
- steering shaft cliunking problem - repalced under warranty
- drivers window will not go down in cold weather until car warms up.
- Just replaced Mass air flow sensor
- both rear struts gone
- intermittant flickering headlight problem
Other than that I love the intrigue.
Thanks
If those two do not solve the problems, you may start cheicking the fuel pressure regulator as well as the igntion switch.
I am a full time student and money is very tight.
Jmeasell....what's your thought?
Are the DRLs (The 2 yellow turn signal lights in front) supposed to go off when the headlights are turned on? My DRLs are always on with or without the headlights. When I see other Intrigues driving at night the yellow DRLs are on as well as the headlights.
Anyone else ever have this issue?
Thanks
Sometimes taping it with the butt end of a screwdriver can get them to work. Contacts can be cleaned if you have patience to disassemble it. Or try replacing it with another relay of same kind/part# (one that's not real important).
The bcm controls the relay with reference from the daylight senor and bypasses the manual control stick.
cheers
Thanks,
here in sarnia ontario canada.i won't say who but everyone here will know,it's a fairly small city.i told them to check the wiring as you said and they said it is all fine.when i took it there this morning i told them the alternator was dead.later this afternoon they called me and said low and behold your alt.is no good! that will be $136.00 please for the quote to fix it. the repair bill for the alternator alone would have been $900.00could they tell me what caused it? NO! did they check the wiring as i asked?they didn't think that was the problem.in other words NO! i am going to put a used alternator on it and try to track it
down.this is the second one to fry in 18 months.talk about pissed off!
when i disconnect the battery and reconnect it everything is fine.all the power the engine is supposed to have is there as where it was sluggish to the point of barely running.it smells like wires burning aswell.no mention of this from the pro's either.the battery tests low and the alt is supposed to be dead,so why does it start and run fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery? :confuse: hope i get it figured out soon. any suggestions that doesn't involve a gas can and a match.
thanks in advance
If this is all you did then you should check for corrosion in the boots at the battery post. very common on GM's.
Disconnect both posts, pry out the center bolt that connects connector to battery and then slide off red and black boots. Get a wire brush in there and clean connector and stud down to bare metal. Sometimes it is caked on there and you will need a file and pick to hack away at the crust. When shiny metal is visible your done. Then check connector for burning, melting etc.
Do not be fooled, i have seen 1/8" build up, the little teeth were buried and the crude looks just the like metal connector.
Slide boot back on and then replace the center bolt. You may have issues getting the stud back in, but using a small screwdriver start on one side, prying the boot up over the stud rim and then work your way around
cheers good luck
Is it common for people to drive the Intrigue permanently with the SES coming on every so often? I noticed the fuel type and altitude affect the sensor and my gut tells me the whole GM OBD is just too touchy to work correctly. I really just want to know if there is a safety issue with this SES or if it's just a nuisance light. I know the crankshaft position sensor is safety because it kills the engine. :confuse:
Thanks.
While your car may be running fine, I bet your gas mileage i suffering.
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Should I have the alt replaced?
thanks
Sometimes it will work fine. Sometimes it will not and this is a situation in which it is not.
Anyone know of a manual release to allow me to slide it shut? The motor appears to work, the track has not been a problem, and frankly the whole thing is getting frustrating and mystifying because certain combinations of switching on the electrical system have allowed me to do something about it in the past...however not this time, and I can't use that vehicle till it's fixed.
Now I know 2 other users on the forum had similar issues that involved pushing on it (which suggest a gear or track problem) and I know I can replace the motor on the sunroof (assuming I can figure out how to get into that area) so all is far from lost; however, like I said, there is a serious time issue involved and rain is not far off...
Any help appreciated, thanks.
My Mom has a 1996 Cutlass - had the same problem... Check the PCM (powertrain control module) ground. Everything on the car is controlled by the PCM including the dash lights. My Mom's is located by the right fender and started acting-up after an accident - the dealer failed to tighten it during the repairs.
I don't know where the PCM is on the Intrigue, but the wacky lights problem sounds familiar!
Good Luck,
Randy
It has a fusible link in it, probably near one end. It presence is where the wire diameter gets smaller and a bit of heatshink is visible
Did you know that your caps lock button is on. Not nice :confuse:
Are there other reasons you suspect the battery is the culprit?
Where are the replacement alternators coming from?
New, used or rebuilt and from which manufacturers/companies?
Are they burnt-- melted windings?
Are they siezing?
When new and when dead.
What is/was the output voltage of the alt? Battery voltage with car running?
What is the current output of the alt with car running and all electicals (fan/lights/radio etc) turned off?
Have you put the battery on a charger by itself to see what kind of load it is drawing when it is charging?
Two most effective way to kill an alt. is with heat or over current and the second causes the first.
Third way is having them reconditioned with crappy/inferior electrical components ie. regulators and diodes
Bad bearings usually start out making noise before they interfere with the alt ability to supply power.
cheers
It also decides on it's own when it wants to start. I can go out and turn the ignition and it cranks like it was just off the lot. Other times, it turns but will not crank (like no fuel getting to it). I hear the fuel pump, but sometimes when I turn the key, the pump hesitates along with guages hesitating to show. The security light, service engine soon, check engine, and track low lights all will come on. All will stay on when it won't crank, but once the lights go off, it usually will crank and stay off until the next time it won't crank.
The dealer said I need a new ignition switch, but I have replace an ignition at least three times already on this vehicle.
I had a code to tell me to clean the EGR (which was replace in 2003) they cleaned it, but said I had many other codes that Autozone did not find. Autozone only said that EGR code (cleaning) and a torque something stuck in on.
We're talking $700+ just in the ignition. Not to mention at least 8 other codes.
Can anyone tell me what is the major problem with my car. If it is the ignition, this would be the 4th replacement and that just isn't logical.
Any advice? I would like to keep this car on the road. Though I am frustrated, I think this car is a very good car. If I could just fix this headache. It could go another 100k easily.
By the way it's a 3800 series engine.
Who said you had many other codes?
Without knowing the codes, we're just guessing. Based on the problem you described, my first guess would be the ignition switch also. Have you tried another mechanic to install the ignition switch?
The "torque something" is probably the torque converter in the transmission. It's a common problem with these trannies.
LIke I mentioned, you need to find out what the other codes are? Most likely you need someone with a Tech II scanner. some of the codes can only be read by the dealer. you may have to invest $75 to have the dealer scan your car.