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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • msmazdamanmsmazdaman Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone help me. I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute. There is a humming noise when I put on the brake. I only hear it when it's in drive and reverse and when I put on the brakes. When I turn the steering wheel it makes it as well. I've taken it to a mechanic and they can't find anything wrong. Has anyone else had this problem.
  • mazdamadmazdamad Member Posts: 3
    I bought my 2002 Tribute on a Saturday and didn't drive it again until the following Tuesday where it died in the middle of the freeway. After it was towed to the dealership I was told nothing's wrong; 2 months later they found the battery was never tied down and was split in 1/2 leaking battery acid. Six months later it was in the shop because the gas cap indicator light wouldn't go off - found out the seal to stop fumes from coming in the car was defective. Then the parking brake light wouldn't go off - oops this time the master cylinder had fluid on it- from where - who knows. Finally made it to 29k miles - took it in for a check up - they found an axle broken - interesting since the suv is only driven 26 miles on the hwy a day. Then the brakes went bad - only to be told by the dealership that the brakes are European and tend to wear out because they can't support the weight of the vehicle - interesting...and finally it will be back in the shop again for the parking brake light -this time the dealer thinks there is a break in the brake fuel line. My Lemon-Law attorney has agreed to take my case. Mazda/Ford can have their vehicle back...give me a Toyota.
  • mikebc780mikebc780 Member Posts: 6
    Car is back, two weeks to round up new head assy, gaskets, etc. from all over U.S.A. Diag. was burnt valves and seats on cyl. #4. (oil changed faithfully every 5k mi.) Seems to run good, fingers crossed, thank goodness for Ext. Warranty.
  • jag617jag617 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry, to have not written sooner...
    I have a post, somewhere around #2800?!
    I had the same problem with my 2002 Tribute...and finally, at 29,000 miles; they service writer "acknowledged" it.
    They removed the head covers, and removed, and re-torqued the keepers...at least this is my understanding. That's all...and voila; no more valve train noise!
    In talks with the service manager...I learned there was a recall for this, in December, 2003.
    Good luck!
    jag
  • ryan41ryan41 Member Posts: 21
    Jag:

    Thanks for the info, I went into the dealer that used to service my 02, service writer knew exactly what I was talking about and said it is a cap thrust adjustment, he said they did a 05 last week and said that it was no big deal. I am taking the car there on Wednesday for the adjustment. Its funny it is the same exact noise as my 02. Hope this works. Thanks again for the info.
  • ckohlerckohler Member Posts: 1
    light in dash panel comes on& off ,have to tap
    on inst panel to get it to come on.
    what type of bulb is in instrement panel ,and how do you get axcess to it.
    on 2004 trib.
  • laalaa Member Posts: 4
    This weekend we test-drove three 2005 Tributes (V4 and V-6) and all three seem to have the tires squeak or bark when ever we turned. Is this normal for a mid-size SUV or Mazda vehicles. We also drove the Ford Escape, Santa Fe. Outlander, CRV and none of these made the noise with the tires. Has anyone else ever had this problem? I read of noisy tires on other forums about the Tribute but no one explains what the noise is. Would different tires make a difference? I was not turning fast or turning to sharp or even accelerating through the turn. I drove all the others the same way. We really like the Tribute but not sure if I could put up with noise EVERY time I turn. Anyone else experience this?
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    Hmmm.. This sounds rather strange. For a test, I took my Tribute out for lunch today (05 AWD V6), lowered the windows (thankfully it has finally warmed up a little here in Northern VA), and listened. No weird squeaking or barking during routine turns.

    The fact that multiple Tributes did this is weird, but perhaps that dealer has their tires inflated improperly. I had to add some air to all of my tires after purchase (I like them be at the higher side of the recommended PSI).

    The problem that most people talk about with regards to tire noise and the Escape/Tribute, is that the tires that come standard have some noticeable road noise at highway speeds. I have noticed it with mine (it is not unbearable, mind you) but will definitely replace with better tires when the originals need to be replaced. My co-worker recently put on Michelin's on his Escape and has noticed a definite decrease in road noise and better handling. I would suggest going to a different dealer and test again.
  • laalaa Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice. I will try another one and have them check the tire pressure. I will also watch to see if I am turning to sharp or acclerating into the turn. Any one have actual mpg on V4 and V6 that they are getting? Thanks again?
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    Now mind you, I have the AWD V6, and it is not broken in all the way yet, but here is what I am averaging:
    15-18mpg city
    23-24mpg highway
    19-22mpg mixed

    This is about normal for a V6 Escape/Tribute, but I also should mention that I live in DC and the cold weather, and stop and go traffic definitely affect my numbers. Some V6 owners average higher than mine, and I also have a case of the lead foot sometimes :)

    I figure if you pay for the V6, you may as well enjoy it:)

    For comparison, my Tribute gets almost identical mpg to my V6 Nissan Altima.
  • shttyescapeshttyescape Member Posts: 1
    Hey there, I am currently driving a 02 eacape xls 5 speed, and have had the same problem, shuddering at 36000km, and having them say nmothing is wrong with it, I have had the clutch flywheel and pressure plate replaced which fixed it for the time being, but starting to get it back again, have you had problems with transmission bearings?>
  • laalaa Member Posts: 4
    Test drove two more yesterday, no noise! Made sure airpressure was checked in both before driving. Pretty sure the Tribute is going to be or final choise. Now just have to figure out what a good price is. Anyone know what the holdback % is for Mazada (2% of base MSRP)? What would be a fair price over that, say $200 over invoice to dealer? Thanks for the advice.
  • mphxazmphxaz Member Posts: 27
    laa,
    I'd say go for invoice or below, and go for all available rebates that you qualify for! Check the " Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute/Mercury Mariner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience " discussion to see what others have been paying. I picked up our Tribute in December at a good price with lots of hints from the good folks on these forums! Good luck and let us know how you do.
  • ryan41ryan41 Member Posts: 21
    Jag:

    Did your valve train noise go away right away? Had my adjustment done yesterday, the service writer said that I may hear the noise slightly when the car is cold but that should stop altogehter after a while. Drove the car around after I picked it up, sounds the same as before I brought it in. I stopped by the dealer, let him listen to it, he said to drive it for a day and if the noise does not go away, he will do the adjustment again. He said that the car has 16 0r 18 cam journals that they adjust. I probably will bring it back like he said to.
  • terryinatlterryinatl Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar noise from my 2005 Tribute. My vehicle was purchased in September 2004, and the noise started about a month later. It would only happen after the brakes were heated up, and only at slow speeds/coasting.

    My dealership has looked at the vehicle 5 times for this issue, and they have replaced all four rotors, relined the brakes, flushed the brakes, replaced the brake pads, adjusted the parking brake, consulted with a Mazda engineer who denied the possibility of these noises even though they could be replicated by the service department, and now it's in the shop again for the 6th and final time today.

    I'm filing for a replacement vehicle under the Georgia Lemon Law. Since they're admitting the problem is in the brakes, and they've had the opportunity to fix it more than one time and cannot, I qualify for the program. There are federal laws with similar wording and consumer protection. I'd suggest you visit www.autopedia.com to check how your state's lemon law is worded. This is not something I really want to do since there are costs associated with this process. You have to pay a usage fee based on the number of miles you've driven your vehicle, and it's up to the manufacturer to determine the mileage rate.

    I can't be alone with this braking issue. I listened to a couple of phone calls being answered at the service department this morning, and two were for similar issues. Their response is that the Mazda brake pads leave a glaze on the rotors which makes a squeaking noise.

    Be careful how you drive in stop and go traffic. My vehicle's brakes heated up so much, that the ABS system kicked in when it thought I was locking up the brakes. My Tribute lurched forward and almost hit the car in front of me. This happened while at a complete stop! The brake noise was so loud that people were looking to see where the noise was coming from. I was finally able to stop long enough to pull the parking brake in the hope of resetting the system. To my amazement, the squeaks and squeals completely stopped.
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    Then why does my Escape LIMITED 4x4 have more HP and Torque than your Tribute ? According to Car and Driver Magazine they are TWINS except for a few minor image differences and engine tweaks they are the SAME vehicle. Quit dreaming that you have an Enlightened SUV. You have what the rest of us have, a Ford Escape or a Mazda Tribute are just wrapped differently.But if Ford sells out to the "lowest bidders" then why will my Escape LIMITED 4x4 outrun your Tribute and why does my Escape have more HP and Torque ? Why does my Escape have better suspension parts if it sells out to the lowest bidder ?
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    the dealership has Turned the Rotors and the replaced the pads and Rotors both and it's been in the Dealership 4 times for the Brake problems and we're going with the Lemon Law as well. We just sent off our packet to be "REVIEWED". I paid $31,800 for our 2003 Escape LIMITED 4x4 with crappy brakes and just happened to have the 1st problem in just under 12 months of ownership which is our saving grace. The Dealership is avoiding the problem as much as possible but everythime i go in there's a buttload of Escapes and Tributes in for Brake noises and problems with the Front brakes mainly. this is my 3rd set of rotors and the front end still makes a popping niose that the service guys can never seem to hear even when it pops. I've been advised by a service man at ford to put on AfterMarket brakes with Larger rotors, shouldn't Ford be doing that for me ? I wonder if bshap has brake problems of if their Tribute is "above" these things.
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    Knock on wood! My 2003 Escape LIMITED 4x4 has been a GREAT and Dpendable truck except for the BRAKES ! I had it in the dealership 4 times now for the brakes and twice for front end noise. I'm going with the Lemon Law and Ford sent us a stack of papers to fill out and send in for "REVIEW". I'm 100% disabled and used the insurance money from my disability to pay cash for the EXPENSIVE Escape. I wish now I'd have just bought another 4.0 V6 Explorer like the 1997 I STILL have and is STILL running strong! Ford said they're either going give us a NEW Escape of the Same Trim and options or refund us the money that the present Escape is worth. I'd rather have a NEW '05 Escape LIMITED 4x4 and trade it in. The Retail price on my 2003 right now is $23,000. I bought the LIMITED 4x4 so I wouldn't have to buy another vehicle for 10 years like my Explorer is holding up. I don't care what anyone says, my neighbor has a Tribute and when you raise the hood they're exactly the same engine and everything ! Isn't it funny their both, the Escape and Tribute, having the same problems ! Ford should have a MAJOR RECALL on the brakes but not enough people have been killed by them YET.
  • willijamiewillijamie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Mazda Tribute ES with about 42000 miles on it. I am experiencing really loud tire noise and I am looking for recommendations for new tires. Also, I have been told that my rear shocks are leaking. Has anyone else had problems with the rear shocks and if so, where did you get replacement parts?
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    You might ask for recommendations for touring type tires, or others with "less aggressive" tread patterns. Do you have a shop you normally go to for repairs? Surely they can handle the shocks for you.
  • sweswe Member Posts: 8
    Best tires with less noise for the 2005 Tribute with 16 inch tires are these, I'm assuming that the 2004 is the same:

    Michelin Cross Terrain SUV
    Yokohama Geolandar H/T-S G051

    They are a bit more more in price but really worth it. Check out www.tirerack.com for the best tires for your Tribute.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    My co-worker put the Michelin's on his Escape and loves them. I have bought tires from tirerack.com and can tell you that they are great!
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I bought my 2005 Escape XLT Sport last week. I immediately drove it 500 miles on the highway and did not find the tires noisy and loud. They are Continental Contitracs, which were factory installed I presume.
  • laalaa Member Posts: 4
    We looked at two different '05Mazda Tributes and both of them had RUST behind the dash inside the car. One was nearly completely rusted. You could see the RUST on the break paddle and follow it up the arm of the break to the underside. When I looked behind the dash the steering column and nearly ALL metal parts had a fair amount of rust on them. This was also on the passenger side under the dash as well. Also both front seats had rust spots on them. The most concerning part to me was where the bolt held the break arm going toward the engine. It was rusted completely over. I would be afraid it would lock up one day. We are in Florida and I was wondering if others see this on their Tributes as well or could it be that these two have had water damage to them. I truly do not think it should be there especially not on a BRAND NEW CAR STILL ON THE LOT.

    We have a 2-year-old Toyota and it is immaculate under the dash (NO RUST). Could other please check under there dash, around the fuse box, and brake arm and let me know if there is a fair amount of RUST there?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    The dealership probably did something dumb like leave the windows down in a thunderstorm. With Florida weather, it's not surprising.
  • tmerchtmerch Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Tribute (V6, 43K mi) had to have the dashboard cluster replaced and now my odometer is reset! The dealership that did the repair claims there is nothing that can be done. Is this possible!? I am afraid of the legal implications if I try to sell.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    I agree with you on this one (dealer leaving the windows down).. I am a member on several different Tribute and Escape message boards and have never heard of this (my 05 Tribute definitely does not have any rust on it). In college, I did a brief stint with a dealer in Florida, and it is not uncommon to crack the windows down when it is warm out (especially for vehicles with leather seating). Probably just forgot to roll them up... Pretty lousy that they are trying to sell brand new cars with rust on them..
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    I do not think it is a big deal (factory tires), but many users have noticed a decrease in road noise after they switch out the OEM's Again, there is no reason to switch out the OEM's until they need replacement.
  • sweswe Member Posts: 8
    I agree with dc driver, I have OEM's (Conti's) on my 05 Tribute and they are just fine, but I only have 7000 km on them. If you check out the user comments on tirerack.com for these tires, it appears that they get really noisy after you've put some miles on them, (like the guy that started this thread).
  • lbonelbone Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Escape with a passenger door that will not open from the outside. It happenned one day when we tried to "click" it open from the inside and someone was opening from the outside. Has anyone experienced this problem? Is there a history on this and an easy way to repair? Thank you.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    are you saying the latch itself is broken or the power lock?
  • chris_notsischris_notsis Member Posts: 5
    The fuel line recall is for BOTH Tributes and Escapes.
  • chris_notsischris_notsis Member Posts: 5
    Hi! You may need to pop the interior panel and check that all clips associated with the door release mechanism are in place. It is not unusual for many cars using nylon / plastic clips - for them to dislodge when two simultaneous (yet conflicting) operations occur. It is not unique to the E/Ts.

    Chris.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    I've been reading about issues people are having with premature wear of brake pads and rotors on their Tributes and Escapes, and I am hoping to ward off the problem with my '05 Tribute. I have just over 500 miles on it, and figure now is the time to switch to something better. On past vehicles, I have had great luck with Repco Metalmasters ( Now Axis brand I think ). I'm not sure if these are available for the Tribute. I'll check right after posting this. Does anyone have recommendations, utilizing the stock rotors? Brake dust does seem to be an issue as well with OEM. The Metalmasters are excellent in that regard.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I also have a brand new 2005 Escape. I have 637 miles on it. I would not change the brake pads at this time, considering the warranty. Why not wait until a diagnosable need develops? Do you actually have a problem with the brakes? I certainly have no problems with mine.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Different rotors are made of different materials. What worked on one car may not on the Escape. If you have rotor problems after switching brake pads, the dealer will NOT honor the factory warranty. I agree with the other poster recommending no changes until the warranty is up.
  • chris_notsischris_notsis Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    The rotor and pad materials have been upgraded since 2001 (late). Mazda/Ford have made valid adjustments to these items and the differences are noticeable in reduced wear, noise and dust (in most cases). My 2001 Trib wore out its rotors and pads by 38,000kms. THe prices between Ford and Mazda are interesting! IT's cheaper to buy pads from Mazda and rotors from Ford than both lots from either OEM. I opted for DBA (Australia) rotors and Bendix 'Advance' pads for a total third of the cost of the OEMs. Performance is equal to the OEM units and a discernible drop in dust output.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Good morning all,

    After posting, I did check online, and then contacted an Axxis ( formerly Repco ) distributor, and his records indicated that the 2001 - 2004 pads are the same. He did not have a listing for 2005. They may be the same, but I have not verified that yet. I have used Repco Metal Masters on Fiats, Alfas, VWs, and found them to be excelent. I don't think I would worry about causing any harm to the OEM rotors; at least I hope they would "hold up". But it could be that the 05s have been changed, and might not have the issues others have said they have had. To this point, with only 550 miles on the vehicle, my only gripe is brake dust accumulation. The Metal Masters reduced that significantly. As for warping, knock on wood, I have never really had the problem on anything I have owned. But the one thing I have always insisted on when installing wheels is use of a torque wrench instead of a pneumatic impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts or bolts.
  • tpeterstpeters Member Posts: 4
    While re-assembling my upper intake manifold after changing plugs I over turned the bolts (didn't use a torque wrench). Knowing that these were press fit I lost concentration when tightening down and forgot that I wasn't turning into a threaded hole. I over tightned bolt #8 in the tightening sequence and its insert broke loose. The same possibly happened to #5 but not sure; I didn't want to apply any more torque in either direction after #8 broke. The tribute has 83k on it and will probably never need another plug change. Can I leave this the way it is or do I have to replace the lower (assuming the lower is what the upper manifold bolts into). Also, all other bolts 1 thru 7 are probably over tightened and those also I did not want to apply any more torque in any direction to them. Can I losen those after I go out and do what I should have done to begin with: buy a torque wrench and then re-tighten, or will those insert break loose when I turn them?
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I agree with most of the other posts in waiting until the brake pads are spent. I changed for the time at ~26K miles and went with the OEM (big mistake). They were quiet to be sure but dusted-up like crazy just like the pads from the factory. The 2nd change-out I did at ~54K miles,
    I changed pads/rotors completely to ProStop ceramic enhanced pads which have minimal dusting
    at most. The rotors are nothing special, except that the replacements can be turned, unlike the OEM rotors which are (were) in essence disposable. The replacement pads are wearing well. The brake shoes have not been replaced even at 68K miles. I was told my the mechanic who cleaned them that they probably still have 50%wear.
    It does seem that Ford has redesigned the front calipers and pads for '05, but I still see alot of '05's with a bad dusting problem.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    You need to remove those bolts and repair or replace the lower manifold. If there is a helicoil kit that will apply to that intake, it's worth a try. If you leave it like it is you'll end up with a warped upper intake and leaks.
  • bjsteelbjsteel Member Posts: 1
    Hey dananderson, was this ever resolved? I'm having the same problems with my 01 Escape. It has 46000 miles and just recently started to crank but not turn over, although sometimes it works fine. It's currently at the mechanics shop and starts for him everytime, figures!
  • zoomzoomwillzoomzoomwill Member Posts: 1
    I have to respond to your (scrape2's) comments about Tribute/Escape Transmission failures being a bunch of Hype... I have been a loyal Mazda man since 1977 and all the Mazdas that I have owned have been problem free; But, I currently own a 2002 Mazda Tribute with just over 100K and just yesterday picked it up from the Shop after replacing the 4th Transmission, "Total Meltdown" Replacements!!!! I no longer have any faith in this vehicle (Transmission) an regret to say have lost a lot of faith in Mazda (Ford Drivetrain) in the process. My failures have nothing to do with proper maintenance, I have always pampered my vehicles and treat them to the Mazda recommended maintenance schedule. There is never any warning of impending failures and they have cost me considerable grief and inconvienience. IT IS NOT A BUNCH OF HYPE... you have just been lucky (so far).
  • chris_notsischris_notsis Member Posts: 5
    Hi Tmerch.

    New clusters and odometers are set at zero as a default. There is no way to programme in a predetermined reading, other than zero. (Actually, it can be done, but only at the factory programming level). As long as you retain the service record of the replacement, which should also record the odometer reading at time of service, then there should be no (legal or other) problems. If the service centre has not included the odometer reading, then ask them to add it.
  • tpeterstpeters Member Posts: 4
    Can anyone diagnose this one: Half way through a trip from VA to WI, Tribute (2001 v6 x4 auto w/83k mi) started to hesitate on acceleration? I was pulling a light trailer, but the Tribute has tow package. Because it started right after refueling I thought I had gotten poor fuel quality, but it never went away. The engine light did not come until about 100 miles later. Shortly afterward it started to miss and the light began to flash. I ran fuel dryer, injector cleaner, sea foam; you name it through it thinking I had something related to the fuel system going on. It ran rough and idled rough, but always ran, even at highway speeds. This happened once before on a long trip but just went away; so then too I thought it was fuel. This time it's not going away though. When I got home I changed the fuel filter, plugs, upper intake manifold gaskets, checked connections and hoses in the engine compartment, and changed one hose that was bad going to the EVAP canister. After the plug change and resetting of the PCM it ran good for a short while, about 50 miles, and then the light came back on the next morning and the poor idle and stumbling with acceleration started up again sometimes flashing, missing with hard acceleration. It seems to stumble consistently at a gear change at around 48 mph (don't recall rpm's) and acceleration after releasing the peddle to slow down. I can work through it by feathering (lightly pumping/ tapping) the gas peddle; it runs fine while holding a consistent speed. Fuel consumption seems higher than normal. When idling, it runs rough. In park its better but when it’s cold you can hear a slight back fire/miss out of the exhaust pipe. I'm about to spring for the code reader and find out what the computer is saying but didn't want to spend the $80 to find out a dealer had to take it anyway. Any ideas?
  • timltiml Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a pre-owned 02 Escape and wish I never had set eyes on the thing.

    The second day I had it, we had some torrential rain, so I didn't do any driving, just left in the driveway. The next morning, I found both the driver's side and passenger's side floorboards covered in rain water. No water anywhere else to indicate a leaking window, windshield or moonroof. Just in the floor.

    I took it back to the dealer the next day and he agreed to fix it. Turns out, Ford has known about the problem for awhile now, but just doesn't wan to issue a recall because it affects Escape, Explorer, Expedition, Excursion, and the new Mustangs. Seems the factory either didn't use enough sealant between the seams at the front of the cab or in the Mustang's case, none at all. Both fenders had to be removed and sealant added to the seams. Al all day job.

    Anyway, the dealer did this for me at no charge, so I can't really complain about it.

    However, now it seems there is another problem. Twice now I have hopped in and turned the key over and nothing happens. This morning, my wife and son were getting ready to leave for church when it happened for the first time. I tried to jump start it from my truck but still nothing. Engine would not turn over, starter did not spin, nothing, all the lights on the dash lit up and that god-forsaken seat belt chime was in fine working condition. Anybody know where I can locate that thing so I can disconnect it?

    Anyway, we drove my truck to church. When I got back a couple of hours later, it started right up. In fact we drove around town, visited her granddad, left again and drove to my folks house in another town about 40 miles away, drove back, no problem. Came inside to drop off some groceries and were heading back out to go to her parents house down the street and nothing. No engine turning, no starter spin, nothing. Just like before.

    Now, knowing that the dealer took off the interior panels to find the leak, I thought maybe the fuel pump inertia switch. So I took it out. It works fine. Then I thought well maybe it is some funny code in the computer, so I disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes, hoping it will reset to factory defaults. Still nothing. I switch around my fuel pump relay and starter relay with the defroster and cooling fan relays, they are all the same part numbers. Still nothing. I check my cables, they are fine, I pull of the aircleaner and throttle body hose and check the connections at the starter, they are fine, still nothing.

    In all, I spent about an hour and a half just checking things and it still will not make a sound. I know the fuel pump is working, I can hear it turn on when I turn the key. I even took the advise I found on this message board and "jiggled" the transmission shifter, hoping that would engage the interlock switch, still nothing.

    I don't know what to do. If I take it to the dealer, I'm sure he will say that I bought it as is and he has already helped more than he should have. I'd like to be able to fix this myself. It seems like it should be something really simple.

    As a side note, the keyless entry has never worked on it. I know it has keyless entry, it's an XLT and loaded, I can't imagine it wouldn't have it. And the THEFT light come on in the dash each time I turn over the key, so I'm sure it is equipped. Perhaps the two issues are related?

    Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Please e-mail to t1mlew1s@aol.com. Thanks.
  • tpeterstpeters Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, took care of that and didn't have to helicoil though. It turned out the bolt snapped. I was surprised at that as I really didn't think I was turning down that hard. I thought the insert would give way before the class 8 bolt (was pleasantly wrong). Still have my engine light and acceleration problem though after plugs, fuel filter and hours of frustration thinking what could be going on with this temperamental machine. Please see my post under engine light if you want a challenge, and thanks again for your help.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Sounds like an IAC (Idle Air Control motor) problem I had early on at about 25K miles. The IAC replacement solved the problem for me. But it could be a different problem altogether because I'm not a mechanic. I changed out the IAC (sits on top near the air intake) in about 5-mins. My '01 V6 has performed great without the above mentioned problems since.
    If you do replace the IAC, try and go to a parts-house, you'll get it cheaper
    that going through the dealer-parts dept. I got mine for about $54.00, it would normallyrun about $75.00 at the dealers at least. Do not buy an aftermarket IAC. Only go with Motorcraft brand.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Since you have an engine light on, best course is to go ahead and have it read. Probably a misfire code, and the reader will tell you which cylinder is misfiring. Could be something as simple as plug wires.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Definitely sounds like an alarm problem First step is to identify if it's factory or aftermarket, then go from there.
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