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I have a post, somewhere around #2800?!
I had the same problem with my 2002 Tribute...and finally, at 29,000 miles; they service writer "acknowledged" it.
They removed the head covers, and removed, and re-torqued the keepers...at least this is my understanding. That's all...and voila; no more valve train noise!
In talks with the service manager...I learned there was a recall for this, in December, 2003.
Good luck!
jag
Thanks for the info, I went into the dealer that used to service my 02, service writer knew exactly what I was talking about and said it is a cap thrust adjustment, he said they did a 05 last week and said that it was no big deal. I am taking the car there on Wednesday for the adjustment. Its funny it is the same exact noise as my 02. Hope this works. Thanks again for the info.
on inst panel to get it to come on.
what type of bulb is in instrement panel ,and how do you get axcess to it.
on 2004 trib.
The fact that multiple Tributes did this is weird, but perhaps that dealer has their tires inflated improperly. I had to add some air to all of my tires after purchase (I like them be at the higher side of the recommended PSI).
The problem that most people talk about with regards to tire noise and the Escape/Tribute, is that the tires that come standard have some noticeable road noise at highway speeds. I have noticed it with mine (it is not unbearable, mind you) but will definitely replace with better tires when the originals need to be replaced. My co-worker recently put on Michelin's on his Escape and has noticed a definite decrease in road noise and better handling. I would suggest going to a different dealer and test again.
15-18mpg city
23-24mpg highway
19-22mpg mixed
This is about normal for a V6 Escape/Tribute, but I also should mention that I live in DC and the cold weather, and stop and go traffic definitely affect my numbers. Some V6 owners average higher than mine, and I also have a case of the lead foot sometimes
I figure if you pay for the V6, you may as well enjoy it:)
For comparison, my Tribute gets almost identical mpg to my V6 Nissan Altima.
I'd say go for invoice or below, and go for all available rebates that you qualify for! Check the " Ford Escape/Mazda Tribute/Mercury Mariner: Prices Paid & Buying Experience " discussion to see what others have been paying. I picked up our Tribute in December at a good price with lots of hints from the good folks on these forums! Good luck and let us know how you do.
Did your valve train noise go away right away? Had my adjustment done yesterday, the service writer said that I may hear the noise slightly when the car is cold but that should stop altogehter after a while. Drove the car around after I picked it up, sounds the same as before I brought it in. I stopped by the dealer, let him listen to it, he said to drive it for a day and if the noise does not go away, he will do the adjustment again. He said that the car has 16 0r 18 cam journals that they adjust. I probably will bring it back like he said to.
My dealership has looked at the vehicle 5 times for this issue, and they have replaced all four rotors, relined the brakes, flushed the brakes, replaced the brake pads, adjusted the parking brake, consulted with a Mazda engineer who denied the possibility of these noises even though they could be replicated by the service department, and now it's in the shop again for the 6th and final time today.
I'm filing for a replacement vehicle under the Georgia Lemon Law. Since they're admitting the problem is in the brakes, and they've had the opportunity to fix it more than one time and cannot, I qualify for the program. There are federal laws with similar wording and consumer protection. I'd suggest you visit www.autopedia.com to check how your state's lemon law is worded. This is not something I really want to do since there are costs associated with this process. You have to pay a usage fee based on the number of miles you've driven your vehicle, and it's up to the manufacturer to determine the mileage rate.
I can't be alone with this braking issue. I listened to a couple of phone calls being answered at the service department this morning, and two were for similar issues. Their response is that the Mazda brake pads leave a glaze on the rotors which makes a squeaking noise.
Be careful how you drive in stop and go traffic. My vehicle's brakes heated up so much, that the ABS system kicked in when it thought I was locking up the brakes. My Tribute lurched forward and almost hit the car in front of me. This happened while at a complete stop! The brake noise was so loud that people were looking to see where the noise was coming from. I was finally able to stop long enough to pull the parking brake in the hope of resetting the system. To my amazement, the squeaks and squeals completely stopped.
Michelin Cross Terrain SUV
Yokohama Geolandar H/T-S G051
They are a bit more more in price but really worth it. Check out www.tirerack.com for the best tires for your Tribute.
We have a 2-year-old Toyota and it is immaculate under the dash (NO RUST). Could other please check under there dash, around the fuse box, and brake arm and let me know if there is a fair amount of RUST there?
Chris.
The rotor and pad materials have been upgraded since 2001 (late). Mazda/Ford have made valid adjustments to these items and the differences are noticeable in reduced wear, noise and dust (in most cases). My 2001 Trib wore out its rotors and pads by 38,000kms. THe prices between Ford and Mazda are interesting! IT's cheaper to buy pads from Mazda and rotors from Ford than both lots from either OEM. I opted for DBA (Australia) rotors and Bendix 'Advance' pads for a total third of the cost of the OEMs. Performance is equal to the OEM units and a discernible drop in dust output.
After posting, I did check online, and then contacted an Axxis ( formerly Repco ) distributor, and his records indicated that the 2001 - 2004 pads are the same. He did not have a listing for 2005. They may be the same, but I have not verified that yet. I have used Repco Metal Masters on Fiats, Alfas, VWs, and found them to be excelent. I don't think I would worry about causing any harm to the OEM rotors; at least I hope they would "hold up". But it could be that the 05s have been changed, and might not have the issues others have said they have had. To this point, with only 550 miles on the vehicle, my only gripe is brake dust accumulation. The Metal Masters reduced that significantly. As for warping, knock on wood, I have never really had the problem on anything I have owned. But the one thing I have always insisted on when installing wheels is use of a torque wrench instead of a pneumatic impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts or bolts.
I changed pads/rotors completely to ProStop ceramic enhanced pads which have minimal dusting
at most. The rotors are nothing special, except that the replacements can be turned, unlike the OEM rotors which are (were) in essence disposable. The replacement pads are wearing well. The brake shoes have not been replaced even at 68K miles. I was told my the mechanic who cleaned them that they probably still have 50%wear.
It does seem that Ford has redesigned the front calipers and pads for '05, but I still see alot of '05's with a bad dusting problem.
New clusters and odometers are set at zero as a default. There is no way to programme in a predetermined reading, other than zero. (Actually, it can be done, but only at the factory programming level). As long as you retain the service record of the replacement, which should also record the odometer reading at time of service, then there should be no (legal or other) problems. If the service centre has not included the odometer reading, then ask them to add it.
The second day I had it, we had some torrential rain, so I didn't do any driving, just left in the driveway. The next morning, I found both the driver's side and passenger's side floorboards covered in rain water. No water anywhere else to indicate a leaking window, windshield or moonroof. Just in the floor.
I took it back to the dealer the next day and he agreed to fix it. Turns out, Ford has known about the problem for awhile now, but just doesn't wan to issue a recall because it affects Escape, Explorer, Expedition, Excursion, and the new Mustangs. Seems the factory either didn't use enough sealant between the seams at the front of the cab or in the Mustang's case, none at all. Both fenders had to be removed and sealant added to the seams. Al all day job.
Anyway, the dealer did this for me at no charge, so I can't really complain about it.
However, now it seems there is another problem. Twice now I have hopped in and turned the key over and nothing happens. This morning, my wife and son were getting ready to leave for church when it happened for the first time. I tried to jump start it from my truck but still nothing. Engine would not turn over, starter did not spin, nothing, all the lights on the dash lit up and that god-forsaken seat belt chime was in fine working condition. Anybody know where I can locate that thing so I can disconnect it?
Anyway, we drove my truck to church. When I got back a couple of hours later, it started right up. In fact we drove around town, visited her granddad, left again and drove to my folks house in another town about 40 miles away, drove back, no problem. Came inside to drop off some groceries and were heading back out to go to her parents house down the street and nothing. No engine turning, no starter spin, nothing. Just like before.
Now, knowing that the dealer took off the interior panels to find the leak, I thought maybe the fuel pump inertia switch. So I took it out. It works fine. Then I thought well maybe it is some funny code in the computer, so I disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes, hoping it will reset to factory defaults. Still nothing. I switch around my fuel pump relay and starter relay with the defroster and cooling fan relays, they are all the same part numbers. Still nothing. I check my cables, they are fine, I pull of the aircleaner and throttle body hose and check the connections at the starter, they are fine, still nothing.
In all, I spent about an hour and a half just checking things and it still will not make a sound. I know the fuel pump is working, I can hear it turn on when I turn the key. I even took the advise I found on this message board and "jiggled" the transmission shifter, hoping that would engage the interlock switch, still nothing.
I don't know what to do. If I take it to the dealer, I'm sure he will say that I bought it as is and he has already helped more than he should have. I'd like to be able to fix this myself. It seems like it should be something really simple.
As a side note, the keyless entry has never worked on it. I know it has keyless entry, it's an XLT and loaded, I can't imagine it wouldn't have it. And the THEFT light come on in the dash each time I turn over the key, so I'm sure it is equipped. Perhaps the two issues are related?
Anyway, any advice would be appreciated. Please e-mail to t1mlew1s@aol.com. Thanks.
If you do replace the IAC, try and go to a parts-house, you'll get it cheaper
that going through the dealer-parts dept. I got mine for about $54.00, it would normallyrun about $75.00 at the dealers at least. Do not buy an aftermarket IAC. Only go with Motorcraft brand.