Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

1545557596080

Comments

  • tpeterstpeters Member Posts: 4
    Thanks again. I'm off to buy that reader, but have a question regarding those plug wires should that be what I find to be the problem. Will I have to replace those upper intake gaskets again after I pull the manifold?
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I hate to say "will be" so and so. I jsut meant you need to find the code before wasting time with guesswork.

    I just now realized you're the same guy with the intake and the misfire. I thought it was two different posters. Could you go way back through everything that's happened causing you to replace the intake gaskets, misfire code, etc? Thanks.
  • gaspig1gaspig1 Member Posts: 3
    I just recently purchased a 2001 Tribute ES. Its got the V6, leather, moonroof, the works.

    I love absolutely everything about this SUV, although, I havent had a chance to try the 4WD out yet as we have not had any snow since I bought it.

    My only problem with it is the gas mileage. I am averaging 13 MPG in the city, about 18 MPG on the highway. This thing is costing me a fortune to drive. I've tried fuel injector cleaners, gas additives and stuff like that. Nothing helps. Mileage has not gotten better at all. I drive it like a little old lady in hopes of improving the mileage.... nada.

    Also, on occasion, when I start it, the engine revs really hard for about 30 seconds, its almost like the gas pedal is stuck down. It doesnt happen every time, but often enough to cause some concern.

    Anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening?? Any suggestions on how to improve the mileage? At this rate, I just may have to get rid of it to get something more economical. :mad:
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Interestingly, I signed on this morning planning to discuss gas mileage as well. It seems based on many comments that the Escape / Tribute / Mariner family is simply not fuel effiecient, SUV status notwithstanding. While they are not small vehicles, they certainly are not outsized either. Mine is an '05 4 cylinder, 5 speed, AWD. In comparison to yours, I guess I should be thanking my lucky stars, yet I also feel based on the way I have been driving to this point that there is something not quite right with the results I am getting. To date, I have averaged about 21 mpg, but it has been my style of break-in driving, which is with eggs under my right foot, and using 3000 rpm as redline. What I have noticed is that on downhill stretches, both on interstate and secondary roads, where the speed is around 50 miles per hour, when I place the transmission in neutral, the vehicle continues to slow as though I had it in gear or was braking. Granted, it's a non-aerodynamic box, but I am now thinking that there must be tremendous drag in the drivetrain, and I have to give it gas simply to maintain speed even while going downhill. That can't be good at all for fuel efficiency. I wish I had taken the FWD version I test drove on similar stretches in order to compare. This may very well be the first vehicle I have ever had which won't achieve the rated fuel mileage. We'll see once it is "broken in". But in my experience, the additional miles will not result any measureable increase at all.
  • gaspig1gaspig1 Member Posts: 3
    **What I have noticed is that on downhill stretches, both on interstate and secondary roads, where the speed is around 50 miles per hour, when I place the transmission in neutral, the vehicle continues to slow as though I had it in gear or was braking. **

    I've noticed that too with mine, it seems to drag if you're not contstantly giving it gas, but not all the time. If I'm on a flat road, it coasts along nicely,even gathers speed to the point where i have to brake sometimes.

    Like I said, I drive it very carefully so as not to use a lot of gas, but it still does. From work to home and back, round trip is about 30 km, I use almost 1/4 tank daily just driving to work!!! I had a lead foot in my other cars, drove the bag outta them, drove everywhere and have never had fuel economy this bad!
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    The Ford 3.0 V6 has been around in various iterations at least for the last decade. It is not a very fuel-efficient engine in the Escape/Tribute/Mariner clan but seems to do better in the cars that it's placed in, for example the new Ford 500, Mazda 626, Mazda MPV, etc.. This is probably somewhat d/t the gearing differences between the SUV's and cars noted. I could be wrong but I don't believe the 500,
    626, MPV, or Freestyle are rated to tow 3500 lbs. like the Escape/Tribute family.

    My current City/Hwy. mileage is about 17/20 mpg. I've achieved nothing better
    in last couple of years on my '01 Escape V6. I guess if greater mileage is desired then we may all have to live with a 'Freestyle'-type vehicle which mileage rating is
    EPA 20/27. I guess if I got on the highway and kept it below 70 mph I might be able to get 21-22 mpg if I was lucky. However, I have a tendency to wring the
    V6 because it seems like it crys for it to done, so my mileage will be on the low-side.

    Of course if gas prices continue to climb I may be back in a compact-car getting
    25/35 mpg and not liking it one bit.

    What I really wish, is that Ford would plop a torquey clean-burn diesel in the Escape a la Jeep Liberty. This would raise the mileage figures by at least several
    mpg for city and hwy. I definitely would consider a purchase as opposed to the
    Escape Hybrid which considering the extra initial cost would take several years of gas-purchases to pay-down.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I'm afraid it won't get much better than low 20s with AWD. there's a lot of drag on the rear wheels with the AWD gear, even when it's not engaged.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Sound like a bad Idle Air Control. Change it with a new Ford part and see if the fuel economy improves. Also ask you dealer about available reprograms for the PCM for the mileage problem. Just a word of warning, though: a lot of 2001 Escape/tribute owners had trouble with intermittent stalling, and the reflash program cured it but many owners reported poor fuel economy afterwards. You may have bought a reprogrammed Problem Child. It will have to spend some time in the dealer service dept for diagnosis either way
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    My '03 Escape Limited 4x4 has 32,500 miles and is on it's 2nd set of OEM front rotors and 3rd set of front brake pads from the dealer and they dust like crazy ! I can wash my Escape and by the next morning I'm having to wash my front wheels already from the brake dust !
    Do these Escapes and Tributes LAST ? I mean are they dependable when they get milage on them? i bought mine new in April of 2003 and have had problems with the front brakes, it's been in the dealership 5 times now and this Monday coming up It's scheduled to go back into the dealership AGAIN and this time not only for the brakes but the Automatic Transmission is acting up on it ! I'm 100% disabled with a spinal disability and can't have this thing breaking down on me all the time and Alan Vigil Ford in Morrow, GA. where i bought it is NOW trying to stop the loaners and force me into "renting" cars from them for a $50. deposit which I'm supposed to get back if I don't go over 100 miles no matter how long I have the "loaner" ! I paid CASH for the Escape with the insurance settlement from my accident for my spinal cord and was left with enough to pay off my old cars so we gave them away hoping to help out other people. The 1997 I gave away was the BEST vehicle I've EVER owned and wish I still had it. I told the owner of the Explorer that the ONLY catch was they could NEVER sell or trade it and it had to come back to me if they ever got a new car and they signed a paper saying so. He called me last month saying that gas prices in East TN where they live now are getting to be too much for the 4.0 V6 in the Explorer and they'll be giving the Explorer back soon, I CAN'T WAIT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's a 2WD Explorer with the big V6 with LOTS of power, it was that ONE truck off the assembly line that had the EXTRA Mojo and it recently turned over 100,000 miles for a 19971 and the guy said it will STILL spin the back tires if you're not careful on the pedal !
    When it comes back I'm going to try my hardest to get a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pick up to tow 5th wheel trailers hauling vehicles for Repo lots and auction houses between Macon and Atlanta which I notice a BUNCH of people doing here lately in this area. I can still drive an Automatic transmission if it's equipped with right kind of seating which most newer trucks are. I can't wait to start working again if it's Gods will !!!!!!!
    Does anyone know anybody who has a diesel pick up they'd want to trade even for an '03 LIMITED 4X4 Escape with the Tow Package and Reverse sensors, leather interior, power sunroof, heated seats and side mirrors, power drivers seat with power side mirrors, luggage rack, fog lights,ALL the "03 option are on this escape including the running boards and Medically exempt window tint for my migraines that I suffer from. It Dark metallic Grey with tan leather interior. I have a 7 yr old so the interior has been kept up but needs to be vacuumed ! I instaled a K&N Air filter and a Tornadoe Air& Fuel Mixer for better fuel mileage and HP. It NEEDS after-market slotted front rotors and ceramic brake pads to make it just short of perfect. We've taken it to Myrtle Beach 4 times, Disney in Orlando, Florida once, Pensacola Beach, Florida twice and a round trip up thru the Appalachian Mtns of East TN. on thru N.Carolina East all the way to the coast and south to Brunswick,GA and back north to Atlanta where we live just south of. MANY of the miles on it are Interstate miles and as stated earlier it only has 32,500 miles on it. everyone complains about the small fuel tanks but I've never come close to running out of gas thru ALL of my travels and that includes MANY back road trips being tourists in other states ! when i take into the Dealership this monday I'm having the Transmission fluid drained and Synthetic fluid added, I'm told it will add 2 to 3 miles per gallon in fuel mileage.
    If this little SUV has ONE Redeeming quality it's that it has NEVER (knock on wood) let us down,EVER ! We took it out on the muddy tidal flats in Florida once where a bunch of others were testing their SUVs and trucks in the mud so i had to follow suit. It's the ONLY time we've ever had it in the 4X4 mode and it never spun a tire in the wet mud one time and had no problem in just driving thru the tidal mud when others after us in Toyotas and Honda were sinking and spinning in one spot !!!!! i was proud of my little Escape that day and lots of people were impressed with it since we did have EVERYTHING we'd brought with us on the trip inside the thing. Being a disabled Veteran the Navy guys at Pensacola washed our Escape for us even though I was in the ARMY and they ;) power washed ALL the mud out from under the truck for us as we were carrying an extra couple hundred lbs of mud with us !
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    Just unplug the Red Battery Cable and re-install it ! That'll reflash it , I know it sounds crazy but ALOT of my neighbors have Escapes and I've heard from more than a few of them about this "quick do it yourself fix ". Try it, it WON'T hurt anything. I had to do it with my '03 2500 Ram Quad Cab Hemi and it worked on it as well. It's like re-starting your computer at home , it just re-sets it.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    "flash" programs are hard coded into the PCM memory. Unplugging the battery won't delete the re-flash done by the dealer any more than turning off your PC resets your BIOS or hard drive.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    A friend of mine has a 2005 4 cylinder Escape 2wd that developed a problem just off-idle that felt like a throttle cable seizing. The dealer repaired it under warranty by replacing the throttle body. I can't remember if it was a TSB or secret "program" or an actual recall, but if anyone is experiencing the same symptom it will be covered under warranty at the dealer.
  • serkanserkan Member Posts: 2
    I just Purchased a pre-owned escape 2002. It was quite clean when I left the dealer but in two weeks rust started to develop on the paint (In small orange dots) specially at the rear gate just under the glass. The pain seems to be original but I don't understand how a rust can develop on a 3 year old car. Does anyone else experianced such a problem. I am quite worried to be honest. This happened in two weeks I can't imagine what happens if I keep this car for couple of years.
  • serkanserkan Member Posts: 2
    I have an Escape whic I purchased pre-owned two weeks ago. I started to see rust developing on the paint right under the rear gate window and rear left window. For a three year car i found it quite unbeleivable. I am suspecting a paint problem. Please let me know if anyone experienced the same and how manufacturer or dealer responded. Thanks
  • soldierfromcasoldierfromca Member Posts: 2
    Ok, well where to start... I bought my escape used from Hertz with 27,000 miles on it. Had no problems with it at all until i shipped it here to Germany when i got back from Iraq in March of 04. When I picked my car up it had a engine light and it was only an oxygen sensor that needed to be replaced.

    In August I was getting ready to go to Austria snowboarding when the engine light came on (48,000 miles) . The car seemed to shake when the engine was a low RPM or an idle. So i canceled the trip and took it to the AAFES (Army Air Force Exchange Service) Mechanics and they said that they checked the plugs, wires and coil packs, finding no solution to the problem. other than that the fault code was 304, or a misfire on the 4th cyl.

    So i took it to the ford dealer in downtown Bamberg. After a week the called me back and told me that the spark plug in the 4th cyl had burnt off and fallen inside the cyl. They estimated that the cost of repair would be about 2.800 euros, which is about 3,600 dollars. Which as a Private I can not afford. So I had to settle for paying them 300 euros for a new set of spark plugs.

    Then I Called my dealer in California (Salinas Valley Ford) and asked how long the spark plugs last in the escape. He told me that they were good for 60-100k miles. I asked him why they were not changed during my 50k service which I did on my leave while I was in Iraq. I emailed him pictures of the spark plugs. He told me that they do not replace the spark plugs during the 50k service.

    So i called Ford's 1-800 number and after waiting for a long time, talked to a perky person who in a very polite way told me that the 60-100k spark plugs (ford motorcraft) were not guaranteed for 60k miles. And that since I was in germany I needed to deal with ford Europe.

    So i called ford Europe's 0-800 number and after some language problems, was told that since i was an American, with an American spec vehicle. I needed to deal with ford USA.

    So i called ford again, asked them if there was any way they could help me, pay part of it because of bad spark plugs. and in the most polite way i was told to go pound it..

    So I had no choice but to drive it to get to work and such. and with the new spark plugs it was running much better. So here I am 8 months later. The vehicle started to lose some power over the months. but last month, i had a massive power loss on the autobahn going about 120kM/hr, turns out my EGR Valve blew... literally.. so i bought a new one online for 55 dollars instead of 200 Euro that the Ford dealer wanted here in Germany. and replaced it.. Car ran like it did before. 100 miles later, I had another massive power loss, the engine still had some power, but giving more gas did little. almost like it was in an "8th gear" So now I am trying to get it running again, getting it 60 miles to the POV shipment point so i can send it to texas when I leave next month....

    So my question is.... What can i do? Is there a way i can get ford to help me? Should i just get a new engine if i have been driving it this long? Rebuild it? I am just not sure what i should do?

    Thanks for your time, sorry I am so long winded...

    Bill
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Ford platinum plugs are designed to last to last to 100,000 miles, so the dealer was correct in not servicing them. If Ford has already said "no" to any financial assistance, then that's the answer. You didn't mention at what mileage the plug broke off.

    I don't understand how the broken plug required a new engine one minute, but ran fine for another 8 months. What part of the engine was damaged causing them to recommend replacement?
  • soldierfromcasoldierfromca Member Posts: 2
    They broke off at 52,000 miles. The Ford Dealer in Germany said that the 4th cyl had no compression. and to fix it they would have to take the entire engine apart fix what was broken, and put it back together. They estimated it to be about 2800 euros, mostly for labor.

    It ran "ok' for 8 months.. but at lower speeds and at an idle it still shook a bit... and eventually i had to go over 50MPH or so in 5th to keep it from shaking and the engine light from blinking...
  • elmersmithelmersmith Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ford Escape V6 4WD and have been having this problem for the last several weeks. When I take my foot off of the break pedal a high-pitched whistle comes from that area of the car. The whistle usually goes away if I tape the break pedal a few times, although sometimes it continues for quite a while. In addition, sometimes the high-pitched whistle is replaced by the sound of leaking air.

    It is really annoying, and is starting to get on my nerves.

    I have taken it to the dealer and they said they cannot figure out what the problem is.

    Any ideas?
  • mikebc780mikebc780 Member Posts: 6
    My symtoms were much the same, turned out to be a burnt valve, No. 4 cyl. with low compression. The fix was a new valve head, took 2 weeks to get all parts in. Was apprx. $1800, but had ext. warr., so was out only $50 deduct. Good luck, M
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    The reason I asked is if the cylinder walls are not scored then the engine can be repaired. At worst you would need a new head and piston, and I don't see it being anywhere near the cost quoted.

    I would be interested in having another dealer or independent shop pull the head and give his analysis without knowing the previous dealer's diagnosis. If he sees damage consistent with a foreign object, then you were getting the real story. It won't cost too much labor just to pull the head and have it looked at. Then go from there.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Early model Escape/Tributes had brake booster problems. Tell your dealer to check it for leakage, and if turns out to be the problem ask why the heck he didn't find it the first time.
  • kimrochelleskimrochelles Member Posts: 4
    I have seen where some people are questioning whether or not Escapes are having transmission problems.

    Well, I can unfortunately verify that there are problems...

    I have a 2002 XLT 4wd Escape and am just about to reach 30000 miles. I special ordered and am the only owner. I am 2 weeks away from factory warranty expiration. Over this past week I have noticed a unusual "noise" coming from my Escape. It occurred when I came to a complete stop, gave gas, then let off gas. I took my father for a drive to see if he could determine the cause. He said he wasn't exactly sure of cause but said it could be universal joint/something in driveshaft. He said the noise definitely wasn't normal.

    I took it to dealer and after they took a drive the mechanics came to meet me in lobby with a serious demeanor. They didn't even want me to drive it home! I was in shock. Turns out that there is a major issue with my beloved Escape..transaxle assembly or transfer case. Fortunately for me, my vehicle is still under factory warranty and this expensive repair (could be up to $4000) won't be my expense.

    Unfortunately, I am second guessing my purchase of my Escape. Up until a few weeks ago I was set on keeping it for years to come. Now, I am not so sure...it's either fork up money for extended warranty before May 1st or trade-in for another vehicle.

    Considering the fact that the dealer never even provided me a car to drive home in I am even reconsidering sticking with a Ford manufactured vehicle.

    I
  • elmersmithelmersmith Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, I will try that! Any other help would be appreciated.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    Here is what you need to decide:
    - Do you have the vehicle fixed and keep driving it (what are the chances of another costly repair over the next 2-3 years?)
    - Do you buy an extended warranty (should be around 1K)?
    - Is your Escape paid off, or do you still owe money on it? If it is paid off, it would make the most economic sense to keep driving it, since a new car will most likely mean new debt.

    I would personally look at the third point closely. If it is paid off then it might be worth your piece of mind to buy the extended warranty and keep it 2-3 more years, just think about how much money you will have saved versus trading it in on a new car.

    Also, there are no guarantees that if you sell the Escape that you will not have similar problems with another vehicle. Is this the first issue you have had? I had a Volkswagen that seemed to be in the shop once a month over a span of two years, and have also had problems with Saturn as well.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    If your financial status is such that you would be comfortable with buying a new car, then why not do it? You can trade in the repaired Escape for the easiest route, or sell it yourself to get more value from it. If you are not mechanically inclined, I can see why you might well want to move along to a new car. Your current Escape may never have another big problem, but it may worry you.
  • isisisis Member Posts: 6
    It WILL work.
  • indyescapeindyescape Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 escape. The check engine light came on last evening. I took it to autozone, and the ssaid it was an egr code. The guy turned the check engine light off. It came on again the morning. Do I just need the egr valve cleaned. How much should that cost. I'm taking in tommorrow.
  • stodiejastodieja Member Posts: 6
    depending on the code if it was p0401 or p0402 you may need a dpfe sensor that was a common problem for the escapes and tributes for egr codes
  • eclark1eclark1 Member Posts: 1
    Just had the same problem witj # 5 cylinder on a 2001 Escape. Cost to repair $3000+. Am I getting ripped off?
  • viper318viper318 Member Posts: 5
    I was out this last weekend looking to buy a 2005 escape. Found one I wanted. All it would of taken for the dealer to close the deal was to increase the warranty from 36,000 miles to 60,000 without increasing the price. Oh their said ok only if I got a accidental death and something to do with keeping the inside of my vehicle clean. There was something else but I can't think of it. I argued with the salesman and the manager for about 15 minutes. They told me that the price of all these options that they wanted me to buy would not = a % of a new engine or trans. I then asked them if that meant that as representatives for the FORD MOTOR CO. that they must feel their product is not dependable enough to last 60,000 + miles without any major problems. I left without the escape , Now I,m looking at a Jeep GC with a 70,000 mile warranty.
    WHAT IS WITH FORD WITH ONLY 36000 MILES . THEY CLAIM TO BE AND HAVE THE BEST , THEY NEED TO BACK IT UP. WHO AGREES?
  • kimrochelleskimrochelles Member Posts: 4
    Hi Everyone,

    I wanted to give an update on my previous post. On Saturday 4/16/05 I was told by the Ford garage mechanic that he felt that there was a problem with my beloved Escape's transmission... specifically in transaxle assembly or transfer case.

    After three days in the garage I received some positive news..well whenever there's a problem with a vehicle its an issue but at least this issue didn't turn out to be as major as the mechanic first thought. Turns out there were (2) problems. My understanding from the mechanic is that a nut broke off from motor mount (where transaxle case is also attached). When the nut broke off it allowed the bolt enough freedom in its chamber to move around causing the noise I was having. Furthermore, Ithey found out after fixing this issue there's was another bolt lose around the axle that was also tightened up. I drove it home last night from the garage ..no more unusual sounds. I am very glad.

    For all of you Escape/Tribute owners I will again describe where "noise" was heard so you can check your own vehicle out. It appears the mechanics worked hard finding the problems. If I wasn't under warranty then it would have probably still cost a l fair amount of money. I heard noise in the following ways..after coming to a complete stop then after releasing gas pedal. Evidently releasing tension from gas pedal caused the nut/bolt to jostle around making the noise heard.

    I noticed people replied and read to my earlier post. I really appreciate all your replies and advice. I think forums like this are wonderful where alll of us Escape/tribute owners can be made aware of and discuss issues both good and bad with our vehicles.

    Thanks Again!
    Kim
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    What exactly was the diagnosis? Cylinder head replacement isn't nearly that expensive. Unless the piston or block was damaged.
  • escape4daniescape4dani Member Posts: 3
    Hi I saw you message and was wondering if you ever got it resolved. It happens to my 2001 escape v6 as well. I tried many time to have it fixed and got them same run-around. And yes it is very annoying!
    If you have gotten this taken care, of please let me know what I can to do to get it resolved as well.
    Thanks
    Dani
  • escape4daniescape4dani Member Posts: 3
    Let me re- phrase my last message... Is there any way I can fix this hissing break problem myself? Or do I have to take it into the dealer and be charged an arm and a leg for them to tell me they can't find the problem.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I had my booster replaced by a mechanic friend. A little more complicated than
    I expected, but if you're good with tools and your hands you may be able to get it
    done. The hissing sound definitely emanates from the booster and as I understand it, they have a history of failing between 25-75K miles. Mine did at
    at ~60K. I figure the dealership would've charged me about ~$250.00 to replace it.
    I did for the cost of the booster plus $50 for the mechanic who did it. Nearly 70K
    on my '01 FWD XLT V6 with no major problems detected thus far. Am still running
    Mobil 1 ATF and Mobil 1 engine oil. No regrets, just a bit higher maintenance costs.
  • jayremjayrem Member Posts: 1
    We purchased a new 2002 xlt in oct of 2002 have loved the vehicle up to yesterday. We recently took the escape in for a recall on the accelerator cable and ever since this work was done noticed a change in performance. Long story short, our local dealer told us we need a new transmission at a cost of $3200.00. Guess what, 36000-mile warranty, we have 38000 miles on. Truck isn’t even 3 years old. Don’t think I will ever go back to ford. I can vouch for the Escape having transmission problems. ps problem had no conection to the recall work that was done. :mad: :cry: :sick:
  • escape4daniescape4dani Member Posts: 3
    Thanks.
    Mine has about 55k and has been making the noise for a few months. I really thought it was just one of those "quirks" with the first line of Escapes and I didn’t think much of it (except the annoying hissing) until I saw that it has happened to others as well. Unfortunately I don’t have any mechanic friends to hook me up. I will do more research, try to do it myself and when I fail I will take it to the dealer with my tail between my legs and begging for forgiveness.
  • ryukyuryukyu Member Posts: 12
    I had some issues with Ford as well. We were $1500 dollars apart on a trade-in for my Mustang and they wouldn't budge, plus the salesman tried to backtrack on the price of the Escape after we had negotiated it saying that I would have to do a "Smart Buy" finance in order to get that price.

    I said thanks, but no thanks.

    Then I found the Tribute. I really like the vehicle better, Nicer interior, sportier handling, and they give you a 50,000 mile warranty. If you buy before May 2, you can get $3K in rebates, and an additional $1K if you finance through Mazda Credit. So I bought one.

    I've been reading how Ford's sales are down and that they aren't doing well. Well it doesn't take a rocket scientist to figure it out.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I believe yours is an isolated experience. What I have ben experiencing (Taurus-Escape) tells me otherwise. Ford dealers are more flexible than any other brand dealers.
    BTW, Ford's Sales figures has nothing to do with what you have experienced.
  • lkiershlkiersh Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Tribute V6, AWD. only 1500 miles on it. I notice when applying brake pedal pressure, as the engine downshifts to a stop the pedal pressure changes a little bit. I never felt this in any other vehicle I've driven. Has anyone else noticed this? I will have it checked out under warrantee but I was wondering if it is just happening to my SUV.
  • dc_driverdc_driver Member Posts: 712
    Could this have something to do with the ABS? Have you ever owned a car with ABS before?
  • lkiershlkiersh Member Posts: 3
    All my cars have ABS. I was just curious if this sensation was normal, I guess not. Thanks
  • freddyaudiofreddyaudio Member Posts: 6
    Hi all:

    I've been quite pleased with my used 01 DX 4cyl 4wd 5-banger since I bought it last October. Over the last 2 months, an odd intermittent stalling/idling problem has happened 3 or 4 times. Basically, the truck will shut off immediately after starting it, and will not idle at all unless you keep your foot on the gas a little. The really odd thing is that it seems to resolve itself after the truck is parked for a few hours.

    The first time it happened, I was trucking around a bunch of high school volleyball players and it would not stay going after I had started it. As soon as I turned the key, it would start, and then the engine would die. After several times of trying to get it to idle, I just kept my foot on the gas a little and managed to get where we needed to go (after stalling 3 or 4 times on the way). Since it is a manual, it is a minor feat of aerobics trying to keep the engine going by feathering the gas, and then braking at stop lights and then working the clutch! After the volleyball game, I came out expecting the truck not to start and almost even called a tow truck during the game. Oddly, the truck started right up and worked great for 3 weeks or so.

    It has happened twice since then -- again, after parking it for a few hours, it goes away and the truck works fine. The crappy thing is that it only happens after hours or on weekends when the dealer is not open. Both times, it happened at night, so I dropped the truck off at the dealer and called them the following morning about the problem. Since the truck sat on their lot for the night, the problem went away and the dealer said that it worked fine for them when they tried it out. The service manager basically told me that unless one of their technicians can "experience" the problem in the vehicle, it was pointless to bring it to them for service. .

    Well, it happened again last night on the way home. After grabbing a few things at the store, I came out and the truck would not idle at all -- as soon as it started, the engine would quit. So, again, I kept the gas to it and managed to sneak across town to the dealership 5 mins before closing for the day. The service manager tried to start it a few times and it quit each time. After talking to one of the technicians, he grabbed a small hammer and tapped on something he called the IAC module at the back of the engine. After that, he started it and it idled fine in neutral. He said that antifreeze circulates through the IAC module and it sometimes can stick. Tapping it apparently fixes it or so he claimed.

    The last week or so, I have noticed that the truck appears to surge when cruising along at a constant speed. It is almost like someone is giving it repeated shots of gas here and there but it is rolling at a constant speed.

    I'm fairly engine-savvy, having built a few 5.0 Mustangs several years back. At first, the dealer thought the fuel filter was dirty so they checked that and it was clean. Then, they thought the fuel pump might be getting voltage surges but everything checked out fine (might be the source of the surging problem). The only thing they have not done is to put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and see if the pressure is constant. They have not checked the fuel regulator yet I don't think... A friend of mine recommended that I toss a can of fuel injector cleaner in it but the dealer mentioned that Mazda does not recommend the use of engine or fuel additives at all.

    Anybody else ever run into these problems?

    freddy
  • freddyaudiofreddyaudio Member Posts: 6
    Also: Since the check engine light does not blink at all during the stalling issues, the dealer has deemed it to be a "minor" issue and is pretty reluctant to help out. They told me that the check engine light should blink for almost anything out of the ordinary... so I guess this is ordinary!

    freddy
  • techno geektechno geek Member Posts: 3
    The IAC? That's probably your Idle Air Control unit. It's a necessary part that gives us that nice, smooth idle that modern cars have. An IAC is usually just a butterfly valve on a solenoid that controls secondary airflow into the engine. It provides the engine computer with a way of controlling the engine throttle/idle without interfering with your gas pedal. I've seen IACs before on the last 3 cars I owned, all the way back to a 1987 chevy.

    Unfortunately, I have the V6 engine, so placement of mine will be different, and don't know how difficult it is to get to the 4cyl one.

    If you trace out the air passageways, you should find a secondary air line that bypasses your throttle body, and runs straight through the IAC. Basically, you get one butterfly valve (Main throttle body) and the computer gets one (IAC), both of which control the speed of the engine (to different degrees).

    I'm guessing that you either have deposits on the butterfly of the IAC that is keeping it from moving freely, or the solenoid is on its death bed. Since you've worked on 5.0 stuff, you know what happens when you get a jammed or stuck carb linkage - that's pretty much what's happening here.

    Since your vehicle already has 5 years on it (01s came out in fall 00), and you don't know the maintenance habits of the previous owners, I'd probably give the intake system a thorough cleaning, or have it cleaned at a tune up shop if you don't have time.

    Make sure that the recalls have been done on that vehicle. As I remember, there were several recalls on the 01 models, a couple dealing with engine shut off problems. I believe the engine/tranny computer had to be reprogrammed for some problem with the engine shutting off at odd times.

    Good luck in your endeavors!
  • huttotxhuttotx Member Posts: 1
    My wife and I purchased a brand new 2002 Ford Escape XLT in October 2001. We have about 55,000 miles on it and I have noticed some transmission problems. I've noticed some slight slipping while driving at high speeds as I slow down/up between 60-65 mph. My father-in-law who drove it this past weekend noticed some problems at lower speeds. Fortunately, I bought the premium extended warranty. I'm taking the car in this Friday to get it checked out. According to the maintenance schedule and transmission model, the fluid does not need to be changed until something like 150,000 miles. So it is not service related, but mechanical.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Well, minor till it drives me nuts....
    I have just over 1000 miles on the Tribute now, and creaks from the driver's door, and less often the passenger front door, are becoming more and more frequent. What is really bothersome is that hitting bumps does not always bring out the noises, but more often they occur "out of the blue". As well, sometimes when I am decelerating, there is the sound of some movement within the door itself. I don't want to chalk this up to poor bodywork integrity just yet. I hope the Escape / Tribute / Mariner are better built than that. So I am hoping someone else out there has already addressed this issue, and can direct me as to how to eliminate the creaks. If I can't get rid of them, that, and the thirst for fuel, may drive me back to another Japanese-built product. I am still being zapped unbelievably by static when I exit the vehicle. Now I am wondering if the sheepskins are the culprit.
    As an aside, today for the first time, even though it is May, I had to use the defrosters to clear the windshield and rear glass. I had very thick frost. They both did their jobs very quickly. So with the 4 cylinder at least, heat comes quickly.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Bought my '01 Escape XLT V6 in July 2001. No tranny problems yet, but I'm keeping a close eye on the posts here. By way of information, I've had my tranny fluid flushed every 25-30K whether it needs it or not. Currently, I'm running Mobil 1
    Synthetic ATF which is compatible with any other fluid or transmission. I will be doing another complete flush at about another 15K miles. I just turned over 70K miles. Apparently according to previous posts it does make a difference to keep
    fresh fluid in tranny to keep torque converter shudder to a minimum (the reason
    Mercon V was developed). I would definitely exchange the fluid for starters and go
    from there. Good thing you picked-up the extended warranty just in case.
  • al_2003al_2003 Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2001 Escape XLT with FWD. It's generally in great shape, with apx. 96k miles. Brakes were replace in October 2004. I believe I am sensing a sublte grinding noise or vibration when turning the car, whether or not the brakes are applied. For example, if I'm making a turn through an intersection or am driving n a long, slow curve I feel "something." There is no vibration through the wheel, and I am not noticing any unusual tire wear.

    Any thoughts as to the source/cause?
    Thanks!
    Al
  • al_2003al_2003 Member Posts: 26
    Hi...just curious - why are you replacing tranny fluid so frequently? I have the same year model, with 96k freeway miles on it. I'm going to change the tranny fluid in a couple of weeks because it looks brown to me (may be burnt?); hopefully there's nothing wrong with it
    Thanks!
Sign In or Register to comment.