Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

ryan41 · May 2005

My 05 Tribute V6 is still making a ticking noise from the engine w/6,000 miles. After 2 adjustments to the cap journals, dealer tells me that the engine is breaking in and the ticking noise will go away soon. If the car is driven at highway speeds for about 10 minutes and comes to a stop, the car will be ticking away. As the car idles, the noise starts to subside. I just saw the second TSB for this problem from alldata. It appears that the first TSB did not work. Have another appointment with a different dealer and will bring the new TSB. Anybody else know about this?

fredrikt · May 2005

I have a 2004 V6 XLT with 10,000 miles. I find that gear shifting to 2:nd and 3:rd gear is quite jerky. Is this normal? Somebody told me that the oil in the transmission might not be the correct one, but this is not something that has been changed since i bought the car (1:st owner). Does anybody know anything about this?

escapenut · May 2005

Was informed by several reliable sources that's it's cheap insurance (but no guarantee) to avoid potential problems. With some of the previous posts, there seems to have been a pattern (particularly with early model Escapes) that frequency of tranny-fluid exchange seemd to help performance. For instance, changing every 30K miles should be sufficient, but waiting to change the fluid at the factory suggested intervals may result in slippage, or hard-shifting qualities.

Again, I'm no expert, but I do listen to good advice, and I think that this is good advice. 70K miles and no problems to speak of. A mechanic friend hooked-up
his $4K scan tool the other day to the Escape. Absolutely, no codes were pulled, which he said was strange, as his experience shows that most vehicles will store
codes and eventually either get fixed, or continue to be a potential problem. I think he was quite surprised, because he's a Chevy-guy all the way. He's trying to convert me over, but I'm not there yet. I may end-up getting another Escape again
eventually, which would probably chap-him.

escapenut · May 2005

My '01 V6 XLT Escape dipstick was labeled Mercon V. I was informed in previous posts that the Ford made a boo-boo with early(ier) Escapes by putting the wrong dipstick in at the factory. After several talks with the purchasing dealership and Ford Quality Care (both pretty useless, because neither would admit if this even was a remote possibility) I decided to split the difference and if I couldn't find-out the truth at least I'd try and nip in the bud. I exchanged the Mercon V (or what I assumed to be Mervcon V in the transmission) with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. It's double the price of Mercon V, but I've had no problems in 10K miles since I've had it in. Of course, I really didn't have any tranny problems to speak of anyway, just retentive I guess.

I haven't experienced any problems between 2nd-3rd gear as you mentioned. Transition shifts seems to be smooth so far.

cementdriver · May 2005

I've had my '03 Escape for almost two years & was fairly happy with it until now! The reverse went out on the transmission with only 18,000 miles. I took it to the dealer & they're replacing the transmission. Good thing it was only reverse, although driving it home from work was a bit unnerving, as it was making a lot of noise when I eased up on the throttle. The transmission should not have gone out  I never abuse it & when I start the vehicle I always let it idle down before I put it in gear. When I brought it to the dealership they said they never have problems with the Tribute transmissions.
I had the throttle cable replaced (recall) & the only other problem I've had is the cheap Continental tires they put on the Escapes & Tributes. They rumble, they're out of round, but they won't replace them. Their excuse is "they can't hear the rumble".
The guy waiting in line behind me said, "his girlfriend has a Mazda 6 (5 speed auto) & her transmission went out at 12,000 miles". What's with the Mazda transmissions?
My wife has a '04 Mazda 6s V6 & we've had a lot of problems with it also. 600 miles & the main seal started leaking. They replaced it, then a line from the transmission cooler started leaking. They put a screw clamp on it behind the factory clamp, but didn't tighten it enough, so it still leaked when she brought it home. Took the car back & started inquiring about the lemon law. They got defensive & never fixed the transmission leak. Their excuse was it wasn't leaking & it was obvious they didn't want a paper trail on problems with the car. I jacked the car up & fixed the leak my self. The screw clamp wasn't tight, so I tightened it 1-1/2 turns, hasn't leaked since! Good mechanic huh! The dealership is POLAR CHEV/MAZDA IN WHITE BEAR LAKE MINNESOTA. We've had problems with these vehicles, but I like the way they handle on the road. We also have a '98 Honda Accord V6, not one problem since it was new. But the new Honda's also have problems with their 5-speed auto tranny.

charliebrown1 · May 2005

As i read all of the comments about the Tribute/Escape i sometimes wish i would have never bought mine. I purchased the 03' Tribute with 45 miles on it thinking "wow this is great, a brand new vehicle at a great price!". Boy was I wrong! After finance chargers almost doubled the price of the vehicle, the problems started after about 6 weeks . First, the power steering tension pulley broke as my wife started the car on a cold morning. Then I had several problems with the transmission and took it to the dealer. Each time they would say they could not find anything wrong with it. The bad thing is the rentals they gave me were not any better. Finally, they decided to replace the transmission at 18,000 miles but it did not stop there. Now, if feels like it is skipping but i replaced the spark plugs and it did not get any better. One thing i have learned out of the experience....NEVER BUY A MAZDA AGAIN!!

idntnvu · May 2005

I'm looking at a 2001 XLT Escape, and I was wondering what you owners have to say about it. I have a '99 Explorer, and I'm looking for something to get a little better gas mileage. That said, what are some "realistic" figures on a V6 Escape around town and on the highway? I do most of my driving around town, and right now my 4.0 V6 Explorer is getting 13.5, and on the highway it gets about 18. It hit 20 one time, but that was it. Stays between 17-18. I love the room my Explorer has, but I'd give up a little space to save a little on gas. I know that the Escapes haven't been all that reliable, but I'd probably compare it to my Explorer. What problems have you all experienced, with the stalling issue being known beforehand? The one I'm looking at has 46k miles, and they are asking $12,9 for it. It sounds reasonable to me, but I'm just wondering if there aren't a few skeletons in there somewhere. Thanks!

dc_driver · May 2005

You should get better gas mileage, but not by much (maybe 3-5 more mpg).. I am averaging between 16-18mpg city and 22-24 highway. Most of my driving is city, so I rarely get more than 19-20mpg. Most of the issues should be taken care of by TSB's by the dealer (such as stalling). Without knowing what options are on it, the price sounds pretty good.

Definitely recommend you have a trusted mechanic give it a thorough inspection before buying though. Good luck.

fredrikt · May 2005

Just went for a longer day trip (~ 500 miles) and my 2004 Escape got 25 mpg even though I had the cruise control set to 80 mph most of the time (even up through some really steep mountain passes & reaching the 100 mph stop several times).
My brother has a 99 Explorer, and the cargo area is bigger, but I must say back seat passengers have way better leg room in the Escape, not to mention how much better the handling is compared to the Explorer (Escape feels like a sports car in comparison).

bravelax · May 2005

I cannot locate the "block drain plugs on each side of engine". Can someone explain to me where they are and look like?

Thanks

freddyaudio · May 2005

Hi again:

Well, I had the dealer replace the IAC module and it appears to be working fine now. They did the IAC replacement at the beginning of last week, so I will drive it for a few weeks to see if it does its stalling thing again. I did also ask them to check to on the recalls and both of them were done back in January.

On another note, ever since they replaced the IAC module, my gas mileage has been really taking a beating. Since I've owned the truck (bought it last October), I was religiously getting at least 600 kms (372 miles) on a tank of regular gas (my tank is 57 litres or roughly 15 US gallons). Sometimes I would get as high as 650 kms if I did all highway driving. Now, since they put the new IAC module on, I've been lucky to get 400 kms (or 248 miles) on a tank. I've only gone through one tank of regular gas since they put the new module on the truck. I even took it back into the dealer the other day (when my tank was at 1/2 full) so they could check it over. They rechecked the IAC module (which was fine) and also tested the fuel mileage with a handheld computer, which revealed an instantaneous 27.8 mpg over a 10 km (6.2 mile) trip. This does not make any sense, as I was only able to get abut 16 or 17 mpg on the tank after the IAC was replaced (248 / 15).

The service manager said that the fuel guage works a little weird on the Tributes. Above the 1/2 mark, the fuel guage marker takes a longer time to drop from full to 1/2 than from going from 1/2 to empty. Not sure if I buy that one or not but he had also said that it works the same way on a 6 or a 3.

I drive the truck pretty much from home to work, which is a 50 km (30 mile) round-trip, and is mostly highway, at speeds of 80-110 km (50-70 mph). Since it is still spring up here (in Eastern Canada), I have not had the A/C on at all. Right now, the truck has 120,000 kms on it (74,560 miles) and I don't know if I should get rid of it over the next few weeks and look for something else or keep it.

Any ideas?

freddy

snowman · May 2005

Technically, IAC controls the amount of air engine gets during idling. When you are cruising, your air part of air/fuel mixture managed by MAF sensor. Looks like, your engine is running rich, make sure there is no vacum leak, your dealer might disconnected vacum pipes during IAC replacement, by mistake. (Listen your engine in quiet place to hear a strong hissing sound, if you hear, try to locate it, it might be a vavum leak). Get your MAF tested, and visually inspect plugs. If I were you I would replace the plugs.

PS: I hope you didn't pay too much for replacement. IAC is very cheap (~ $50 US) and breeze to install.

rcinmd · May 2005

Has anyone out there had their dealers, or have you yourself, tackled the creaking of door panels, interior panels, etc? The situation seems to be getting worse, to the extent that I wonder about body flex being an issue. I might be blowing this out of proportion, but I have not owned a vehicle in years which had this problem, so I guess it is more annoying to me than it might be to someone accustomed to such noises. The sounds both seem to be from within the front doors, and also perhaps caused by interior panel rubbing. Yet, if I press on the door panel, I cannot duplicate the problem.
I'm also starting to hear suspension groans. But that I will treat with silicone spray.

j30 · May 2005

You too, I just got back from the dealer. I took in my Trib with 6000 miles because of a creaking drivers window. At first I thought it was the whole door but at speed when it is creaking I can put my elbow in the center of the window and add some pressure and the creak stops.

Anyway they put me in a rental overnight and when I picked it up I was told that the regulator did not need to be replaced but he did tighten it down and they also lubed the tracks.

Did it work, NO!

So, I guess I will live with it...

When the radio is on I can't hear it, unless its talk radio...

I read somewhere else about putting some lube on the weather stripping or something but I haven't tried it yet, I need to pick up some sort of a silicone gel to rub into that rubbery gasket along the window frame, that could possible work.
:confuse:

rcinmd · May 2005

In my case, it is both front doors, and I may be getting a chorus at times from other interior panels. I did spray silicone lubricant along the door weatherstripping, but that did not help. There is definitely something creaking or clicking inside the door, and sometimes it will sound off during braking. But in general, I think I am getting plastic on plastic noises. I just have this fear that over time, it may become almost continuous. If so, the next owner will deal with it.

dc_driver · May 2005

My Tribute is not doing that.. In fact, my Tribute is more quiet than my Nissan Altima as far as creaks and rattles go. So far it is the most quiet vehicle I have owned (as far as creaks and rattles go). The tires are a little noisy at highway speed, but it is an SUV and from what I hear this can be fixed when it is time to replace the OEM tires.

vforge · May 2005

I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT (Red) 4 Wheel Drive for sale. Price is $10,800.00 OBO.
Mileage = 96,000

4bib · May 2005

I have almost 27,000 miles on it. It still under original warranty until Sept. 05.
I started to shop around for ext. warranty. The prices range from $2,500 and up for 7y/100k miles and around $2000 for 5y/75k-100k miles

Basically I have 3 questions.
1) Should I wait until end of August and buy day before expiration or buy it now with current mileage?

2) Should I stick with warranty from Mazda dealership or third-party warranty like DS(Dealer Services) letters we're getting by mail periodically?

3) Are the prices I getting from dealerships seem right?

Thanks a lot!

mrshark · May 2005

Hi all:

Took my wife's escape to the dealer yesterday for tranny flush. After I got back home I looked at the invoice closely, says they replaced the fluid with Mercon V, not Mercon. I'm hoping this is just a typo on their part. Mercon V is no good in this tranny correct?????

I am going back to the dealer tomorrow morning when they are open to complain. Any chance you think they put Mercon in, just typed Mercon V? They charged me $19.00 for 12 quarts of Mercon V, which seems cheap to me.

Also , if damage occurs, do you think the dealer is at fault? I don't see how it could not be.

-Mrshark

dc_driver · May 2005

On some other Escape/Tribute message boards it has been made pretty clear that you should always use Mercon vs. Mercon V. I know the owners manual states to use Mercon.. I would take it back in, and have them re flush with Mercon (and it had better be free). At this point, I would not take the dealers word on it. I would also document this in case you have any issues with your transmission after your warranty expires.. In the grand scheme of things, you are probably okay, but better to be safe than sorry.

escapenut · May 2005

Any older Escape/Trib. owners experience an odd engine whine ? Mine just cropped-up a couple of weeks ago. Not sure what it is yet, but I'm trying to trace it as best I can. It's annoying at lower speeds when you can really hear it. It's a high-pitched whine like something is winding up-down. Oil level's fine, tranny fluid's o.k. too. Had it at the dealer for re-flash, wonder if there's any correlation.
Just had the latest computer flash done. Seems very odd, but everytime I get one of the purported 'PCM-upgrades' done my mileage seems to go down. For instance June 2004, I had the re-flash done per recall. Mileage went from 18-19 City to 16-17 City. With the latest upgrade (done ~2-weeks ago) I expected to
re-coup my mileage or so at least I thought. I've been through 2 (soon to be 3) full-tanks of gas and my average mileage is about 14-16. I don't know what kind of upgrades Ford is doing, but it's obviously not working to improve mileage figures.
I could get a full-size V8 pick-up and get the same mileage in-town. This really sucks big-time. I'm going to request that the dealer re-flash the PCM back to
at least one program-back.
I've had the upper-induction service and fuel injector service done several thousand
miles back. Either the engine is getting less efficient or there has to be something else wrong. Any ideas appreciated.

snowman · May 2005

This is not a pleasure for me to tell you but this sounds like tranny. I am very familar to CD4E whines from my 97-626. Have your truck put onto lift or dyno, so you can listen your tranny...

escapenut · May 2005

Snowman: ThanKs for your reply. I started hearing about the infamous CD4E
tranny problems long before I had the Escape. I had a friend who had a 1997
Mazda 626. His transmission gave-out at 75K miles. I didn't know that the
Escape had a modified (and hopefully) improved version of the CD4E transmission
until about 1-year after I purchased the Escape. Looks like it may not be that much improved, if any, from what Mazda is loading into the 626's in the past and present.

I have contacted a reputable transmission specialist who obviously needs to put it on the dyno immediately. Judging from my description, he thinks it may be the
torque convertor, which can be replaced separately, but may have caused enough damage (if it's the problem) to warrant a complete rebuild. I'll let you know once I
have it done what the diagnosis/prognosis is.

gheimur · May 2005

Go to http://www.fordwarrantys.com it will be the ford warranty and cheaper

mvarnal · May 2005

I've had my Ford Escape XLT V-6 since September 2000. I've been obtaining 265-280 miles per tankful with maybe 1.5 - 2.0 gallons left in the tank when I fill her up again. I've a slight lead foot that has me travelling around 70-75 mph when traffic permits. I've racked up 83,460 miles on the odometer and I'm very happy with the vehicle even though mileage would probably be better if I modify my driving. Two sets of tires going on my third replaced the OEM with Goodyear Forteza tires and it improved road noise and handling. No problems with the vehicle just a persistent overtemp light (red radiator) which was due to a crack overflow bottle took the mechanic a while to figure that one out. Ex-Explorer 1992 owner - miss that vehicle but I'm content with my Escape.

arc · May 2005

My cd player just went out today, 2002 Tribute with 27,000, 6 cd player.
Cannot load any cds, remains in the wait position. It is empty.
How did you resolve your cd player problem?

chrisptown · May 2005

i am thinking of moving from my '04 sable to a new 05 escape. the one thing holding me back is gas mileage. i am looking at a 2wd xlt v-6. anyone have any experience/thoughts on this.?

kelleyartist · May 2005

I am so glad I found your message. My Tribute is creaking, ticking and groaning most of the time. I have a 2005 with 8000 miles on it. The dealer (wood pontiac Mazda) call it "flex" sounds and say they can do nothing about it. I have complained extensively to Mazda and they sent the Factory Rep to deal with it. He said sure, it makes alot of noise, but so do all the Tributes (in varying degree of noise) and so it is considered "normal". I disagree, and told him a brand new car should not sound like an old wooden boat. I am pursuing the Lemon Law. And I would encourage you to complain to the Dealer; my dealer said there is no other complaint on record with Mazda. Of course they will try to wiggle out of it. My car gets louder with time. And probably your will too. They should not be able to get away with such shoddy workmanship.

dc_driver · May 2005

My 05 Tribute does not have this problem (creaking all over). As a matter of fact, as far as rattles and squeaks go, this car is the most solidly built, rattle/creak free vehicle I have ever owned. I have owned multiple Nissans, multiple Mazda's, a Saturn, and a Volkswagen.

Not sure what to tall you. I find it hard to believe that "all Tributes", as your dealer rep stated, make these noises. Have you tried another dealer? Have you tried driving a different Tribute? I have never seen complaints like this one on other Escape/Tribute message boards...

Good luck!

snowman · May 2005

Mine (05) is a solid built vehicle, haven't heard and ding, ping, creak or any other strange sound you describe. Very happy with the performance also, specially during past PA winter.

mphxaz · May 2005

No creaks in ours. We've been throughly satisfied so far @ 10,000 miles ....

bri66 · May 2005

Why would someone with no problems post how great their vehicles are on a message board for individuals that are having problems and seeking advice from owners with similar problems? :confuse:

mphxaz · May 2005

Only when the original poster claims ALL of a particular vehicle have the same problem .........

snowman · May 2005

Why not? This forum is not designated ONLY for complaints. Owners post + and - experiences with their vehicles.
Frankly, since I can't verify the identity and ownership of posters, I don't believe everyhting I read in Internet, I recommend you the same thing.

j30 · May 2005

The structure of mine is fine, no moaning from body flex. But the drivers window just might drive me a little crazy over the years. I find myself listening to more music than talk shows to cover up the creak of the window in my ear, but between every song I get to hear that great creak. Also my back hatch is now making a noise when I hit a bump, but not every time, only once or twice per commute. I have said many times over the years that I would never buy another American car, but this was such a good deal that as long as the car holds up mechanically I can over look some minor things.

Mazda does know about my problem. Also, when I filled out the survey after the new car purchase I mentioned the window creaking and the cheap inside door handles and last week Mazda called and did a follow up survey over the phone that lasted at least ten minutes.

bri66 · May 2005

I currently have 92,000 miles on my 2001 XLT V6 Escape. Absolutely love my Escape as I do all my Fords. It has had it's problems over the 3 1\2 years while I have owned it, but it's still in my opinion a great little SUV. About two years ago I was getting a lot of creaks mostly from the front end. A year and a half later it's starting again. I replaced these little piston like parts to the front end called Links. They cost me around $20 a piece and it quieted the front end completely. Hopefully this info might help solve a lot of these noises other owners are having.
I am fast approaching the end of my 100,000 mile powertrain warranty. Without it the past year would have cost me a couple thousand dollars for two transmission overhauls, front wheel bearings, and front axle CV joints. What wasn't covered was the motor to the rear wiper that cost me $336.
Would I purchase a vehicle based on any posts on Edmunds? I guess that would be silly. Do I believe everything I read, absolutely not. I believe some people would, but I believe in doing my homework before I spend $20,000+. Would I go out of my way to accuse posters of lying, thats not my style. I find it silly that someone would take the time to sit and post messages that aren't true, but I guess there are people that might.
My last purchase was a 2004 Freestar that has been maintenance free, knock on wood. Because of that little rear window motor on the Escape I purchased the Extra care bumper to bumper 100,000 warranty for it. Now everything is covered with a $50 deductible as will all my future Fords I purchase. Spending thousands on new vehicles, these extra warranties are pennies a day for piece of mind.

snowman · May 2005

"Also my back hatch is now making a noise when I hit a bump, but not every time..."

You need to apply two layers of electric tape to latch. After that, you are not going to hear that noise.
For your windows, search in Honda forums. Honda mechanics use slicone spray to quite down/eliminate the windows sound on Honda models. You might want to do the same thing.

chuck1ch · May 2005

Wife drives same vehicle around town will be 20-21 and highway 24-25. Only have had it for 3 months. We had a 01 Tribute and it was 18-19 town and 22-23 hwy, so econmy as improved.

j30 · May 2005

Snowman, please tell me exactly where to spray the silicone. I don't need to take apart my door do I?
Also where on the hatch do I put the double layer of tape, I just looked and there is a post on the floor do I wrap the post with the tape?

Please help me....

snowman · May 2005

When you lift the rear window (? is it how it is called), right in the middle, you will see U shape metal piece. Apply 1-2 layers of electrical tape onto it. You won't hear any sound after that.

For the windows, I don't think that you need to uninstall anything. Slicone spray goes into channels where glass is moving up and down (I hope my description is clear..). I read this fix when I owned Accord. The Honda tech "Auburn" (very helpful person) was advising owners who are having exact same problem. He is stil around, you can ask him. Pelase note, this is not the type of slicone you apply to seal things, it is a can of spray

rcinmd · May 2005

I've done a couple things in an effort to quell all the creaks.
I had noticed quite a bit of suspension noise getting into and out of the vehicle, and also when backing out of the driveway, and tapping the brakes. So I did what I have done with other cars just as a matter of course, and that is to very liberally spray all the suspension joints with lubricant. I usually use silicone spray, but in this case, I went with something a bit more potent. That actually helped. Now, as far as the body flex and resultant door creaking, if that is in fact what is happening, out of frustration, I really went to town with silicone spray, and hit all weatherstripping around the doors, latches, down inside the door through both keyway, and inside trim. There was some relief there, too. But oddly enough, since doing that, I get very distinct and loud creaks from the window when partially down. But at least I was able to confirm that by being able to press against the glass, and stop it. So I have more to do with silicone, etc. The sad part is that my Tribute is losing its "new car smell" for the aroma of WD-40.... For those of you with no creaking issues, that's great. I am sure that the smallest of assembly variances can result in what sounds like an absolute POS (can I say that?), or one which feels like it was carved from billet. My 99 Japanese-built Honda Accord was the latter. So I think I have a vehicle that is going to make these noises forever, sad to say. When it is silent, I focus on how pleasant it really is to drive. It is a brick on the interstate though, decelerating when going downhill, whereas my other cars would have gained speed. That certainly impacts gas mileage. I still have the unbelievable amount of static charge when getting out. That has to be dealt with before I burn a hole in my fingers.

snowman · May 2005

"My 99 Japanese-built Honda Accord was the latter..."

How did you manage to get Japan built Accord in 99? :confuse:

Because, since September 23 -1998, Honda Marysville plant will be the sole source of Accords for North America.

j30 · May 2005

Thanks for the tips, I have a can of silicone spray that I will start using and yes on the rear glass is the U shaped bracket. I will try your fixes and will hope for the best...
And as was pointed out, I also still think the truck is great, a real value in its class and I do love to drive it...
The land of flat Florida I think helps my gas mileage as I usually see 23 MPG which I think it pretty good as my Millenia get 26...
I would have loved to get a 20 or 23 gallon tank though! I stop for gas at about 325 miles or there abouts.

rcinmd · May 2005

Actually, there were many available that year from Japan. And, as a matter of fact, the "new" Accord, when it came out in 2003, was also available here in limited numbers from Japan. I don't think that is the case any longer, otherwise, I would test one. Interestingly, the new Accord has been slammed repeatedly for creaks and rattles inside. I wonder how the Japanese-built vehicles were. Back in 99, Honda was just firing up their plant in Mexico, and I understand that some vehicles from that plant are now being sold here.

nfldrock · May 2005

I have an 05 tribute, when this light comes on approx how many km's are left in the tank...thanks

escapenut · June 2005

I haven't been able to take my '01 Escape V6 into a reputable transmission repair
facility yet for a dyno-test for the whine I hear. The more I listen, the more I don't
think it has to do with the transmission (but I could be wrong anyway). It sounds as if it's coming from the upper engine but it's hard to gauge noise location sometimes. The drivability is good and shift points seem smooth. There does not seem to be any skipping, or no-go commonly associated with tranny failure.
My mechanic-friend seems to think it may be IAC (Idle-Air Control) motor whine,
which it could be. I originally replaced the IAC at ~30K miles. May be time to replace it again at 72K miles if it's a problem. As I understand, electronic-throttle
controls on '05 Escapes and Tribs. eliminates the need for an IAC. The IAC will cost ~$65 to replace if it's the problem, and takes all of five-minutes to change.
Had to do some non-stop freeway driving the other day for about 150 miles or so,
actually got almost 21 mpg at fill-up which I've not seen in a awhile. I still seem to be getting ~16-17 in city driving.

whatsupford · June 2005

I have an '04 Escape that will stall out a couple of times a day while driving down the highway. It is rather erratic, since it may go a week or a month before it does it again. The Ford stores can't resolve the problem and it has been at two Ford Service Stores for a total of four trips. Sometimes the ABS and Brake light will go on and off before it stalls and sometimes it just stalls w/o those lights coming on.

Has anyone else had this problem and do you know of a solution besides putting it out of its misery?

tomjames · June 2005

I have been having the same problems with my 01 ford escape V6. It first happend back in Dec, and now it happens about every three weeks, and every time i bring it to the mechanic, he can not recreate the problem. Where do i buy a IAC from, i checked a few websites and i'm not able to find it. And is it that easy to install?

snowman · June 2005

If you can change air filter, you can replace IAC. Check AutoZone or your dealer. You might want to spot other Escape forums and see what others did...

kimberly_aloha · June 2005

My 2001 Mazada Tribute DX had only 12,000 miles when I bought it used from a Mazda dealer. It came with a 6 month warranty. I immediately began experiencing problems with the clutch in 1st gear when accelerating from a stop. The dealer told me a tune up would fix the problem (90% certainty). I paid over $200 for the tune up and it did not help. After the tune up they all of a sudden acknowledged it was the clutch and said the clutch was going to be recalled by Mazda, but they want me to pay ~$750.00 to fix the pb. I asked them to honor their warranty and after being passed around to several people they finally said the most they would do is split the cost w/ me, i.e. charge me $350.00.

Does anyone have any experience with the clutch of the 2001 Tribute DX. Is it or will it be recalled (when). Any ideas on how I can get the dealer to honor its warranty.

Your response is appreciated.

-Kimberly

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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