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the starter relay should be on the driver side of relays, beside the a/c relay, it is best to pull it out and use the a/c relay in it's place, same as I had to do to my voyager to check and see if it will start with that relay instead of the original starter relay you currently had there. If it does start then most likely will need a new starter relay, which can be picked up for less than $20 from a parts store. If it still does not start, then it will most likely be something to do with the starter.
Now I have been viewing some of the earlier posts about bad contacts in the starter, causing problems with the van not wanting to start and sometimes it does, usually mine will not start if it is cold weather, I guess because of the metal shinking or something to that effect, but will definately be checking into new contacts for my starter and i really hope that will fix my not starting issue.
I myself had checked out some of the other forums and had come across a topic that showed what exactly is wrong with the instrument clusters and it has to do with the cluster having a certain type of solder used to solder the contact points to the cluster of the positive terminal.
As the solder ages and heating and cooling of the solder points, can create a crack in the solder and thus cause insufficient voltage or none at all, and in the end result in the cluster not responding correctly or having only half the dash displaying accurate readings.
if even people ask, i will try to find the original post that I found, but have this in mind when you do that unless you know how to do electronics or soldering, it would be best to take your cluster to a professional electronics person, like a t.v repairman or a computer technician, since they work with soldering often in their line of work.
But I need to find out exactly where the sensor is located. Is there a drwing or picture somewhere?
Regards,
I replaced the fuse block and still have the exact same problems.
Any suggestions ?
Thank you kindly
We have replaced the BCM, we have replaced the alternator twice, we have replaced the battery twice, and we have replaced the starter once. The van has been to 2 different Dodge dealerships (in 2 different states), 2 run-of-the-mill mechanics, and an electrician. We have sunk a LOT of money into this thing and still have no answers.
We replaced the battery again in March, and it wasn't driven for 3 days and the brand new battery was dead. The sliding doors don't lock, and they won't open with the key or the buttons, you must open them manually. The back hatch is super finicky on when it will open. Every time we take it to be worked on, it seems to run fine for a few days and then starts freaking out again. When we first had the problems, we took it to a dealership and they could find no problems so the manager said it was probably the BCM. I took his word and replaced that. It ran perfectly fine until the day after the part warranty expired (ain't that the way it always goes?). We were weeks away from a military cross-country move at that point and had to try and figure it out. It somehow fixed itself and we made it from TX to OK just fine. Drove around in OK for a few weeks no problems. Made it from OK to OH just fine and 3 days after we got to OH it started acting up again. The dealership here looked it over, charged us and told us there was nothing they could do since they can't replicate the problem. The electrician had it for almost 2 weeks and couldn't find anything.
I have no idea what to do...please help!!!!!
(Here's a link to a video my husband took of it happening while he was driving)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9gKZBeGZIU&feature=channel_video_title
Ok I have an update today I ran it out of gas it ran out at 3/8 of a tank. So any bright ideas guys? Every time this truck has anything fixed something else changes ( do you wonder why the previous owner and I named it Moaning Myrtle? ( a ghost form Harry Potter) Not to mention adding 500,000 kms on the odometer one nite and the always on cooling fans & always on interior lights etc etc.
Looks like the dash will come out again to make sure I didn't miss something the first 2 times.
We've been having strange electrical issues for the last year or so.
-headlights randomly shutting off
-battery constantly dieing no matter how great the brand
-all lights turn on, dash lights up but no turn over
-clock and radio randomly resetting itself and all the dials
-sometimes it starts and other times it wont
IT IS (and maybe a combo of the two) wire from ignition to fuse box and the fuse box itself.
The mechanic said that the fuse box sits in a precarious place in these dodge caravans and gets corroded and will make all kinds of weird happenings in the van. They initially thought it was the PCM (computer of the van) but its not.
Up to this point we had replaced the battery (3 times), starter and paid many other "diagnosis" fees.
Stop chasing gooses and get those two things replaced! and warrantied!!
Easy to check, take off door panel, disconnect plug from window winder. Hook up some test wires to a 12v battery, then quickly touch the tabs on the motor.
As the motor turns in both directions try swapping the leads over. If it starts to move, it could be the window switch. If no movement, motor is stuffed, you'll need a new winder mechanism.
4707892 B EATX
23017
0507
Does someone has a spare used one?
Thanks a lot
$7. I had the one for my tranny go bad and all I had was first gear. I carry new spares in my glove box now. I have changed 6 or 7 now in my 97.
As an aside, my battery went intermittent on me [pure happenstance]. It not only screwed up my factory authorized alarm system but it also caused another problem. Since then, as soon as the ignition is on, the speedometer reads 15Km/hr on the dial. To any tech, this isn't a mystery. What I believe has happened is that the inst cluster Eprom has become corrupted and, considering that the speedometer is just a meter movement, the DC OFFSET hex value programmed into either an independent Eprom or an Eprom within the main controller CPU has been altered... After a little research, I know I can buy a computer interface jig to readjust this value, but at what cost? In my opinion, Canadian Tire, who's battery failure triggered this event should be liable for this issue.
Oh, and as an aside, I did try your tip to remove and reseat the interior fuse panel connectors to fix my problem with a relay buzzing int when the headlights were on..... I believe this minor problem is also related to my second, major int probs....
What it all comes down to in my mind is that Daimler Benz used cheap tin connectors and the 'new and improved' leadless yet brittle solder...
Cheers John Beck, Langley BC
Happened to us - change the speed sensor
Not very scientific or mechanical but the price was right
Also, When I bought the vehicle a couple days ago, the dash guages worked but now none of them do. The lights, wipers, dash lights, radio and all still work. I checked the fuses under the dash and they are all working and functional. Any ideas or suggestions? Sort of frustrating. :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: :confuse: ">link title
Pictures on disassembly/repair procedure:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/landar/show/with/3474557830.
DON'T let anyone sell you on any modules before you've had someone experienced with these symptoms actually see them...
When the symptoms occur (while pulled over of course), take a video of these symptoms while gently (at first) banging on the dash above and around the speedometer array until the problem disappears.
At least that way you can confirm the symptoms for the mechanic.
The rest will come down to his experience and the damn car being cooperative...
You'll get zero help from Dodge! Good Luck.