Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

galaxy3 · July 2005

try the coil on one of the cylinders, it has a coil on each one, or the plugs. i'm having that problem.

vaunie83 · July 2005

I own an '03 Tribute ES. Last year while on vacation, the radio wouldn't turn on and once it did turn on, it wouldn't turn off and we had to remove the fuse under the hood. Mazda replaced radio. Well, this year while on vacation, went to start the vehicle (30,000 miles), heard a loud boom, smoke came from under the hood. Lifted hood and saw the the plastic cover over cables and hoses was shattered, all cables and hoses blown off. Had to have car towed 150 miles to nearest dealer. Service manager called the next morning, said the intake manifold was cracked. He said he had never seen this happen before (said it was a fluke thing!). They weren't sure if the backfire caused the manifold to crack or if the manifold was cracked and that caused the backfire. Thank goodness it didn't burn the rental house down!!! Has anyone heard of this happening before?

kdescape · July 2005

I bought a 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4x2 with 47,000 miles about 5-6 weeks ago. About a week after purchasing the vehicle, the fuel gauge stopped working. I had the fuel sending unit replaced. About 3 days later, my car wouldn't start. I had it towed to the dealership and they claimed the car was starting with no problems. They had the car for over a week, and then decided to replace the fuel pump. I picked the car up at around noon and the car started fine for the rest of the evening. I went to do various errands and started the car about 7-8 times that night with no problem at all. The next morning, it wouldn't start again. Same thing as before, it would crank and turn over, but as soon as you release the key it would die. It took me about an hour of trying to start it every 15 mins and it finally started. I headed to work. Once I got to work around 8:30am, I turned the car off for about 10 seconds and tried to start it again. Wouldn't start. Finally after 15 tries. it started. I went outside around 11am, same thing. It took about 12 times to finally start. I went outside at 4pm, it started with no problem! Now it's starting with no problem. Any suggestions on what might be causing this intermittent starting problem? So far, the dealership has paid for all towing and repair costs, but every time I bring it into the dealership, it starts with no problem, but leaves me stranded.

mikezak · July 2005

I also posted this question on the Accessory Discussion board, but I see that this board has more activity, so I hope no one minds the duplication,....

FYI -- I had the dealer install a Compass & Ext Temp on my new 2005 Tribute i. However the outside temp consistently reads 7-8 degrees warmer than outside displays I drive by, as well as a digital thermometer I have at home.

I took the car back to the dealer and they said it was between 1-2 degrees and that was normal. Frankly I don't think they spent a lot of time troubleshooting.

Not all the other temperature gauges can be wrong, and the car right!

My questions to the group is:

1) Has anyone else experienced this problem?

2) Can the unit be calebrated, or should I ask for another?

3) Where is the external sensor located for the Compass/Ext Temp /Mirror?

mike8946 · July 2005

Initial problem---Car would not shift out of park. Had to use a screwdriver to activate the overirde featrue to get out of park. Repair shop said it could be a number of problems--switch in brake thta sends electrical current to solenoid to release park gear, wiring in this sytesm, or the solenoid. They checked and it was the solenoid. At the same time they alos told me thta one of the brake lights was not working. Strange because I had just replaced thta bulb the week before.

One week later, the problem returns---stuck in park. Repair shop keeps 2-3 days but can not replicate problem. Three days later same problem. In adiition the cneter brake light will not work. Repair shop said that when they looked at the brake lights, none were working. After further study, they said thta the fuse had blown and thta the current had burned (fried) 2 of the 3 brake light switches.

Question---what is causing the system to prduce this excess current. Does something else need to be repalced or repaired to prevent the same problems from occurring again?

georgelassos · July 2005

We had a similiar problem on an Oldsmobile. It turned out to be the map sensor. And for good measure our mechanic also changed out the fuel filter. Tell your mechanic to check these areas, otherwise, you are going to eventually wind up stalling out. We ignored this problem at first and it wound up coming back to haunt us on a long trip away from home. Good luck

setirich · July 2005

I use the Bosch pads on both my '01 Escape, and '99 Contour. On the Conty I have the ceramics, but on the Escape I don't. The recommendation is that if you intend to tow with the Escape, don't use the ceramics. I don't know why this is, but that's what I was told...and generally parts folks don't want to talk you out of an extra $24 for a set of pads...

Rich

mikenjax904 · July 2005

I just wanted to say great forum! I found the information here about installing the cabin filter / pollen filter very helpful. (refer to message #2803 in the forum for instructions.) I was able to install and complete the whole process in less than 10 min. , no problem on my 05 Tribute.

I also wanted to post the part numbers for the differtent filters, they are somewhat hard to find in the forum.

Motorcraft FP-49 (cabin filter)

WIX 24816 (cabin filter) (Napa)

Fram CA 4303 (engine filter, doubles as cabin filter)

I personally used the WIX replacement cabin filter and found it to be an exact fit. I looked at the Fram filter and noticed the seal or gasket around it looks much different than the Motorcraft and WIX , so I did not use the Fram. I chose the WIX and I can't imagine a more perfect fit. I got the WIX filter at Napa Auto Parts for $18.18 including tax.

Side note: The filter only filters air coming into the vehicle, not the recirculated air, so if you tend to keep your vent controls set on recirculation, filter will not help. I tend to keep my vent controls set to recirculation, but still it gives me peace of mind to know that the filter is there should I need it. My other car is a Honda Accord and I think it filters both air coming in and recirculated air.

j30 · July 2005

I put the Fram 4303 in my 05 Tribute and it is a perfect fit, did not know I had 2 other choices, thanks for the post.
It took me quite a while to find a place that had a 4303 in stock.

ganryu34 · July 2005

Has anyone installed an aftermarket subwoofer on the tribute i model? I replaced my door speakers, but wanted a bit more bass, but I dont want big speaker box in my trunk area either. Factory look is the key word. If anyone has suggestions, or has done it or knows of an option by all means let me know.

Best regards

ramzey28 · July 2005

For a novice, what did it entail to install. Not sure I have even looked for a location of this filter.

mphxaz · July 2005

Not bad, a 10 minute job. As noted in mikenjax904 posting, go back to message #2803 in This forum (Ford Escape/Tribute Owners: Problems and Solutions) for detailed instructions on how to add / change a cabin air filter on an Escape/Tribute. Ignore the message title on #2803, just follow the instructions ........

kimrochelles · July 2005

I am very impressed with this forum so far. I have a 2002 Ford Escape XLT which I bought new . I am pretty happy with it but I keep an eye on the forum for potential issues I may end up having that have been experienced by others.

I am currently having an issue with the moonroof open/close switch. Seems like there's a short in the switch itself. Has anyone else experienced this with their moonroofs on Escapes and tributes?

I will be taking it to the dealer to have it checked before I attempt to use my moonroof again. The problem I am having is that the switch literally quits operating..leaving one stuck with an open moonroof. Not good if it rains! I have had this happen twice. Sometime soon after I bought it I had an episode where I thought that the moonroof might have stopped operating. This time I heard some motor sounds. I ended up thinking that it was my imagination cause I went back a little while later and all was well. This recent episode though..no motor sound..nothing. There was no response for a long time with the switch. I had my father look at it and he thinks there's a short in the switch since eventually it again started operating.

Just wondered if anyone else has experienced the same issue. I am hoping this will be covered under my extended warranty but regardless will need fixed.I

jam4963 · July 2005

I have had the same problem with my 2005 Ford Escape and today I took it in for service and they told me the exact same thing. That I had a spider web blocking some area that was causing the shut off when I was trying to fuel the car. They are also installing a spider screen in my vehicle. Supposedly gas does not cause the web to dissolve, the spider may die or crawl away but he leaves a very strong web. I started laughing when the tech told me this. I thought he was crazy. Apparently it's very common.

ss299 · July 2005

I have a 2001 Escape, last winter the brake light started staying on after I started the engine but after about ten minutes and a hard tap on the brake peddle it would go off. When I was driving I couldn't feel any drag to indicate the brake was engaged, so I though it might just be that the temp was effecting the sensor. I wasn't too worried, just tried not to use it in the winter. Haven't had any problems since it warmed up . . . until today. Last night the temp only dropped into the 50's and this morning when I disengaged the parking light the brake light stayed on again - same scenerio, after ten minutes and a firm stop the light went off. It wasn't cold enough to have frozen up. Anyone know what might be causing this and if its something I should be concerned about?

skywalker3 · July 2005

This is a copy paste from other helper.

Replace your idle air speed control motor (IAC). They get gummy over time and cause the symptoms you are describing with no trouble codes. It is easy to do it yourself. It is located on the side of your throttle. It is a silver colored cylinder with a plug at the bottom with two small bolts mounting it to your intake. After market might not have it so you need to get it from your Mazda dealer.

Mckee4,
Called the dealer and he suggested the same thing - remove IAC and clean. Can you please describe for me what the IAC looks like and where it is located?
The other night I removed a black plastic piece that goes into the air hose near the air filter. This part is hollow with a few thread like pieces-- as you can tell I am not mechanically gifted. Thanks for your time and assistance. I sprayed this part and towards the manifold and airfilter with carb and intake cleaner. Car started with no problems. Now, I am back to the same issue. Car takes forever to start

this part has been replaced regularly since the mid 90's on all our ford/mazda trucks. there appears to be NO effort at all to improve or redesign it. If there has been an internal change, it has not been an improvement. the same goes for the DPFE sensor(egr flow) if everyone in here hasnt replaced it yet on their tribscape, you will. This part has been noticeably redesigned over the years with no improvement. By the way, if anyone is interested in a 2002 complete intake assembly(including injector rail and the notorious IAC valve), leave your email and I will contact you. It came off an 02 trib that had a bad crankshaft 10k miles. Engine was replaced as a whole.

The IAC on the 3.0 V6 is located on the top
middle of the engine. You can see it and
access it very easily. It almost looks like a
small t-stat sitting on top. It is bolted on
w/two 10mm (I believe) screws and has an
electrical connector that will have to be detached
(easy). The best I can say is that it is
connected near to the black plastic FORD cover
but more on top as opposed to eiter side.
Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera and
cannot post any pictures. If someone does then
it would be good and it'd be easy to point out.

skywalker3 · July 2005

This is a copy paste from other helpers, I found it in this forum, I hope this can help you.

Replace your idle air speed control motor (IAC). They get gummy over time and cause the symptoms you are describing with no trouble codes. It is easy to do it yourself. It is located on the side of your throttle. It is a silver colored cylinder with a plug at the bottom with two small bolts mounting it to your intake. After market might not have it so you need to get it from your Mazda dealer.

Mckee4,
Called the dealer and he suggested the same thing - remove IAC and clean. Can you please describe for me what the IAC looks like and where it is located?
The other night I removed a black plastic piece that goes into the air hose near the air filter. This part is hollow with a few thread like pieces-- as you can tell I am not mechanically gifted. Thanks for your time and assistance. I sprayed this part and towards the manifold and airfilter with carb and intake cleaner. Car started with no problems. Now, I am back to the same issue. Car takes forever to start

this part has been replaced regularly since the mid 90's on all our ford/mazda trucks. there appears to be NO effort at all to improve or redesign it. If there has been an internal change, it has not been an improvement. the same goes for the DPFE sensor(egr flow) if everyone in here hasnt replaced it yet on their tribscape, you will. This part has been noticeably redesigned over the years with no improvement. By the way, if anyone is interested in a 2002 complete intake assembly(including injector rail and the notorious IAC valve), leave your email and I will contact you. It came off an 02 trib that had a bad crankshaft 10k miles. Engine was replaced as a whole.

The IAC on the 3.0 V6 is located on the top
middle of the engine. You can see it and
access it very easily. It almost looks like a
small t-stat sitting on top. It is bolted on
w/two 10mm (I believe) screws and has an
electrical connector that will have to be detached
(easy). The best I can say is that it is
connected near to the black plastic FORD cover
but more on top as opposed to eiter side.
Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera and
cannot post any pictures. If someone does then
it would be good and it'd be easy to point out.

chuck1ch · July 2005

We had a 01 Tribute with the same problem. The Mazda dealer wanted me to buy the whole fixture, not just the switch. No part number for the switch. Maybe the Ford dealer will have it broken down to just the switch.

I did this 6 months ago and have since traded the Tribute in so I am going a foggy memory. I decided to try and clean the switch contacts.

Open the glasses holder to see two screws which hold the whole thing in place. Unplug the switch. Make sure you mark the orientation of the switch and remove it from the assembly. Used some contact cleaner and reinstalled it. There is not much access to the contacts, but to my surprise, it started working properly, even the express open feature.

Saved 40-50 bucks.

Good luck.

udder · July 2005

I have a 2001 Escape with about the same miles. Shows a lot of the same symptoms as yours. I just cleared the miss today when I found the windshield had leaked and gotten the fuse block wet which corroded the inside. Since I could not get one today I took it apart and cleaned. Engine light is out now and I will be getting anew on to put in later this week. Good luck with yours.

kimrochelles · August 2005

Chuck,

Thanks for the information on the moonroof switch. I printed it out so I don't lose it.

I appreciate your helpful advice.

Kim

socal7 · August 2005

I got a dent in my LH front fender --- before I pay for a new one (which would cost with painting about $700) I want to try and fix it myself.

Problem is I can't even remove the undercarriage in order to get underneath the fender to hammer it out. I unscrewed all the screws but it still won't budge.

Has anyone here tried this and what am I doing wrong? Is this the type of thing only a professional can fix?

It's a 2005 White Ford Escape very basic model.

gilbran · August 2005

I took my 2003 Tribute to the Mazda dealer in Seattle (rated #1 Customer Satisfaction Dealer For the Last Seven Years). I began experiencing the clutch slippage sometime after 25,000 miles. The Seattle Mazda dealer insinuated that I must have let someone drive my car who was really hard on the clutch. Which is a croc, I maintain my vehicles to the point where one could eat off the engine block if you wanted to, and no one besides myself had ever driven my Mazda. Of course the warranty on the clutch ran out at 12,000 miles. Mazda wanted 1,500.00 to fix the problem. I am HAPPY to say that I am now the PROUD owner of a brand new Honda CRV. Based on my experience with the # 1 Rated Mazda Dealer in Seattle, I will NEVER own another Mazda!

gilbran · August 2005

Kimberly, I hope you were able to get the situation with the clutch on your Tribute DX handled satisfactorily. I recently took my 2003 Tribute into Mazda because the clutch began shuddering when I attempted to start out in first gear. I guess I noticed it earlier than 25,000 miles but didn't really start to become concerned until it was happening all the time around 25,000 miles. Mazda told me that as far as they were concerned it was normal wear and tear, and that the problem wasn't really anything to be concerned about, more an annoyance than anything. (Of course they would say this they weren't the ones risking life and limb pulling out into traffic in the vehicle on a daily basis). The guys at the service desk told me that if it were them they would wait until the clutch went totally out and then have it replaced. I personally feel that this is a "known" problem with Tribute, and most likely the Escape counterpart, with the same 4 cly 5 speed manual configuration. I did not get satisfaction from Mazda, so the next day I went out and traded my Mazda for a Honda. It sounds like the problem has been around since model year 2001, still happening in 2003 model year and probably still today. I am very sorry for folks who have to deal with this because I know only too well the grief it has caused me.

joeabecker · August 2005

I have a 2002 Escape. Engine light comes on when gas gets low, but once I fill up and let it sit overnight, it goes out. Have no idea what the problem is. Read all other forums on this topic and the only 2 solutions I've seen is to replace the EGR and make sure the gas caps is sealing (or replace it with a locking one). I've looked at the gas cap and it doesn't look like it has or ever had a seal. The next thing I'll try is to take it to AAMCO transmissions as I've seen a commercial that says they'll run diagnostics on engine lights for free. Just need to find the time to take it in when the light is on.Any one else seen this?

wolf43 · August 2005

I got replaced the brake booster and the master cylinder and for some reason stop working you mention High Pitch Whistle from Break Pedal , I dont now any thing about it , can you help , may be the mechanic install some thing wrong thanks

smudgejet · August 2005

Does anybody know if there is an after market gas tank available with at least 4 more gallons capacity? (2005 Escape, AWD, 4 cyl, automatic). I barely get 300 miles per tank, and I drive enough that it means twice a week stops at the gas station.

Thanks.

escapenut · August 2005

Don't know if there is an aftermarket tank that wouldn't require substantial modifcation to the underside of the Escape. May be able to be done, maybe not.

I've got an '01 V-6 FWD XLT, and my mileage generally runs 17-18 City, 20-ish Hwy. Seems to me you should be getting a little better if yourengine is broken-in.
I've got a friend who has an '01 XLS 4-cyl. and it's getting 25+ mpg Hwy. consistently and about 21-22 City. Sounds like you're only getting ~20 mpg, but I don't know what the break-out is between City/Hwy driving.

smoki1 · August 2005

I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute V6 . It will not stay idleing . You must keep one foot on the gas and the other on the brake to keep it running .
Any Suggestions ??

smudgejet · August 2005

Thanks for the feedback about a bigger gas tank. I got 19-20 mpg before break-in, and now get ~21-22 mpg ('05 I-4 AWD XLS Automatic). The mileage I get now seems consistent with my old Ford Ranger ('95 I-4 RWD XLS Manual) at 23-24 mpg. I see 1/4 winding country roads (fun), 1/4 hwy and 1/2 city. When I leave the city, I don't pass any gas stations, so I usually fill up with some reserve, average fill 15 gallons.

If my driving habits give me 15 gallons out of the tank of gas, 4 more gallons would mean a lot less time spent at the gas station.

For the record, 10K miles, no vehicle problems, other than the one deer. I almost stopped in time, less than $1K damage, all cosmetic. Also a plug for Middleton Ford (near Madison WI)

socomfire · August 2005

Since I had a nice Excalibur alarm system I bought for another vehicle in 1999 laying in the shed, I decided to add this to my new 05 Tribute. I went back to the dealer and they gave me the wiring information for the 05. In there it has:

Hood Pin purple/orange - pin switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 5

When I go and checked , I was surprised to see that there is no hood light on my 2005 Tribute. I still don't believe this. I looked and don't see a hood pin? Anybody know where the hood pin is located?

Thanks Jim

aubry1 · August 2005

I too have 2002 Ford Escape XLT, only 3 weeks now, and just experienced this problem with the engine light. Was told it may have to do with oxygen in tank after fill up. Well...it did go on just after I filled, but it wasn't totally empty, anyway, it is completely annoying, and I guess AutoZone will run free diag on emissions related issues with these hand held pc's.

97lude · August 2005

2002 Escape, the battery light will not go out. I changed the battery, had the altinator checked twice - -no problems. The stays on the entire time the engine in on. During the battery switch I thought the computer might reset . . . no luck. Any ideas?
Thanks

m983312 · August 2005

I had the same problem with my 01 V6 Escape. I took it to a mechanic and after a week and a half, I got nothing but a bill for a new air filter and $60 in labor. After reading about it on this bb, I got the courage to install a new IAC motor myself. It took me 10 minutes. Once I had the part in hand, it didn't take a rocket scientist to figure out where it goes and how to hook it up. It's right on the top of the engine. If you look just behind and to the right of the big Fod logo on the black cover when you open the hood, you'll see a silver thing that looks like it should be a solenoid valve assembly. Replacing it consists of two bolts and one pluged (aphenol?) connector. Auto Zone, Discount Auto, and Parks all quoted me about $90 for the part and said it would take several days to get. I ended up getting it for about $70 at the local ford dealership and they had it in stock, so I'd start there. My only problem now is that the car is idling at around 2500... without hitting the gas at all, I can get up above 25mph, so I need to figure out how to deal with that. Also, there's a loud sound of air rushing, so maybe a vacuum leak? As you can tell, I'm no mechanic. Suffice it to say, I'll be finding another mechanic, but at least the car runs now with no help from him.

lmartin · August 2005

How much is a reasonable price to have the 2 front wheel bearings replaced? :surprise:

skywalker3 · August 2005

Change the Idle Air Control Valve, cost around $70, and do it yourself is esasy. Please see massage #3097, I did it and I'm happy now!!

glube23 · August 2005

I have the same problem with my new Tribute. Have you found out what it is yet? I was going to go back to my dealer also but I was curious if you've been told what the problem was?

Thanks

mike_a · August 2005

I currently have the same problem in my 01 V6 Tribute. The car will not stay idling. I took it to the Mazda dealership; they said it was indeed the "Idle Air Control Valve" (IAC). They said it would cost $250 to replace it and only they could do the repair because the control codes would have to be reset or replaced.

I am wondering if this is true? and if it is true, can I just disconnect the battery for about 10min. to reset the computer or codes?

Any responses greatly appreciated as I am having this problem now and must make a decision in the next couple days to get this problem fixed.

Thanks

m983312 · August 2005

I'm no mechanic, but the Haynes manual for my 01 V6 Escape gives a little procedure for re-teaching the computer the idle strategy. That Haynes is the same manual as for the Tribute, by the way. I replaced the IAC motor on mine about a week ago and it's running just fine now without any assistance from a shop or any computer diagnostic. After I replaced it, I did just what you said and disconnected the battery. I then did the little procedure from the book, which consists of 1) letting it idle to normal temperature without any accessories (e.g., AC) running, then 2) letting it idle for an additional minute with the AC running. Finally, it tells you to drive for about 10 miles. After that, the PCM has relearned the idle strategy. Looks to my untrained eye that they aren't dealing honestly with you.

escapenut · August 2005

FWIW, I replaced my first IAC on my '01 Escape at about 25K miles, and I've cleaned it with throttle body/carb cleaner once since then. The IAC has a tendency to gum-up and hinder proper operation of it's function. However, since I plan on keeping my Escape (currently 77K) miles a while longer, I think I'll preempt any problem and just change the IAC again.

its1964 · August 2005

Beside the high pitch whistle, have you ever had a problem with the park brake light coming on and staying on as you go down the road.

brianchido · August 2005

Just bought a 2005 Mercury Mariner (same car) and just discoverd a vibration when braking while driving on the highway (heavy braking at high speeds). Did you guys find out what the problem is? I guess I need to take it in to the dealer. Were they able to fix it?

glube23 · August 2005

Took mine to the dealer. It turns out it was the rotors. I was told that cars that sit on the lot for a while develop rust on the rotors that causes them to create a pulsing when braking. If you bring it back early enought, its all covered under warranty.

jkeefauver · August 2005

Hi. were you ever able to get this solved. Our 2002 Escape is doing the EXACT same thing.

wolf43 · August 2005

Any know where are they i can find it /

normkol · August 2005

My wife brought our 2002 Tribute in to a Mazda dealer who we did not purchase the car from. The air bag light is on.

The service writer said that since we did not buy the car from them, there would be a $94 charge for diagnostics, the repair itself would be covered under the airbag/seat belt warranty.

Has anyone else encountered this charge because you didn't buy the car there?

The dealer we bought from moved and it's now a real hassle for me to get the car there.

inpresme · August 2005

i just got kicked in the rear, because of time i had to take vehicle to dealer (orange park, Fl.) cost $350. 66k and extended warranty of course has expired. I will check with other dealers in the area about the replacement cost. :mad: :surprise: :confuse:

tschroll · August 2005

My 2002 ford focus has been in the shop for two weeks and they cannot find the problem. Did your battery light get fixed and what did they do?

97lude · August 2005

No the battery light has not been fixed. I am just delaying going to the dealer and paying the standard $400.00 charge to fix anything. My wife drives with the light on. Makes me feel like a real man when my wife has to drive a car with a potential problem.
Our Excape also has the idle problem as well.

justesen · August 2005

Escapenut,

My daughter has a 2001 escape that will intermittently start but immediately die. At other times it starts fine, hot or cold. A local Ford dealer wants to flush injectors and put on new IAD, even though the car would not exhibit the problem while they had it. They quoted over $500!! I'm fairly handy and a new IAD costs about $60 so I'm going to replace it. Now the dumb question. Where is it and what does it look like? Her vehicle has about 55,000 miles on it.

Thanks,

Jay

joeabecker · August 2005

Well, I just got back from a long trip that ran the gas tank almost dry (the engine light was on the entire trip), but after filling up (in Arizona) the engine light went out and stayed off until I reached California again and filled up. It went on right after filling up and then went off after driving about 30 miles. I think it is the gas in California with their low emisions formula. Is anyone else that is having this problem from a state that requires low emission formula gas?

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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