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FYI -- I had the dealer install a Compass & Ext Temp on my new 2005 Tribute i. However the outside temp consistently reads 7-8 degrees warmer than outside displays I drive by, as well as a digital thermometer I have at home.
I took the car back to the dealer and they said it was between 1-2 degrees and that was normal. Frankly I don't think they spent a lot of time troubleshooting.
Not all the other temperature gauges can be wrong, and the car right!
My questions to the group is:
1) Has anyone else experienced this problem?
2) Can the unit be calebrated, or should I ask for another?
3) Where is the external sensor located for the Compass/Ext Temp /Mirror?
One week later, the problem returns---stuck in park. Repair shop keeps 2-3 days but can not replicate problem. Three days later same problem. In adiition the cneter brake light will not work. Repair shop said that when they looked at the brake lights, none were working. After further study, they said thta the fuse had blown and thta the current had burned (fried) 2 of the 3 brake light switches.
Question---what is causing the system to prduce this excess current. Does something else need to be repalced or repaired to prevent the same problems from occurring again?
Rich
I also wanted to post the part numbers for the differtent filters, they are somewhat hard to find in the forum.
Motorcraft FP-49 (cabin filter)
WIX 24816 (cabin filter) (Napa)
Fram CA 4303 (engine filter, doubles as cabin filter)
I personally used the WIX replacement cabin filter and found it to be an exact fit. I looked at the Fram filter and noticed the seal or gasket around it looks much different than the Motorcraft and WIX , so I did not use the Fram. I chose the WIX and I can't imagine a more perfect fit. I got the WIX filter at Napa Auto Parts for $18.18 including tax.
Side note: The filter only filters air coming into the vehicle, not the recirculated air, so if you tend to keep your vent controls set on recirculation, filter will not help. I tend to keep my vent controls set to recirculation, but still it gives me peace of mind to know that the filter is there should I need it. My other car is a Honda Accord and I think it filters both air coming in and recirculated air.
It took me quite a while to find a place that had a 4303 in stock.
Best regards
I am currently having an issue with the moonroof open/close switch. Seems like there's a short in the switch itself. Has anyone else experienced this with their moonroofs on Escapes and tributes?
I will be taking it to the dealer to have it checked before I attempt to use my moonroof again. The problem I am having is that the switch literally quits operating..leaving one stuck with an open moonroof. Not good if it rains! I have had this happen twice. Sometime soon after I bought it I had an episode where I thought that the moonroof might have stopped operating. This time I heard some motor sounds. I ended up thinking that it was my imagination cause I went back a little while later and all was well. This recent episode though..no motor sound..nothing. There was no response for a long time with the switch. I had my father look at it and he thinks there's a short in the switch since eventually it again started operating.
Just wondered if anyone else has experienced the same issue. I am hoping this will be covered under my extended warranty but regardless will need fixed.I
Replace your idle air speed control motor (IAC). They get gummy over time and cause the symptoms you are describing with no trouble codes. It is easy to do it yourself. It is located on the side of your throttle. It is a silver colored cylinder with a plug at the bottom with two small bolts mounting it to your intake. After market might not have it so you need to get it from your Mazda dealer.
Mckee4,
Called the dealer and he suggested the same thing - remove IAC and clean. Can you please describe for me what the IAC looks like and where it is located?
The other night I removed a black plastic piece that goes into the air hose near the air filter. This part is hollow with a few thread like pieces-- as you can tell I am not mechanically gifted. Thanks for your time and assistance. I sprayed this part and towards the manifold and airfilter with carb and intake cleaner. Car started with no problems. Now, I am back to the same issue. Car takes forever to start
this part has been replaced regularly since the mid 90's on all our ford/mazda trucks. there appears to be NO effort at all to improve or redesign it. If there has been an internal change, it has not been an improvement. the same goes for the DPFE sensor(egr flow) if everyone in here hasnt replaced it yet on their tribscape, you will. This part has been noticeably redesigned over the years with no improvement. By the way, if anyone is interested in a 2002 complete intake assembly(including injector rail and the notorious IAC valve), leave your email and I will contact you. It came off an 02 trib that had a bad crankshaft 10k miles. Engine was replaced as a whole.
The IAC on the 3.0 V6 is located on the top
middle of the engine. You can see it and
access it very easily. It almost looks like a
small t-stat sitting on top. It is bolted on
w/two 10mm (I believe) screws and has an
electrical connector that will have to be detached
(easy). The best I can say is that it is
connected near to the black plastic FORD cover
but more on top as opposed to eiter side.
Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera and
cannot post any pictures. If someone does then
it would be good and it'd be easy to point out.
Replace your idle air speed control motor (IAC). They get gummy over time and cause the symptoms you are describing with no trouble codes. It is easy to do it yourself. It is located on the side of your throttle. It is a silver colored cylinder with a plug at the bottom with two small bolts mounting it to your intake. After market might not have it so you need to get it from your Mazda dealer.
Mckee4,
Called the dealer and he suggested the same thing - remove IAC and clean. Can you please describe for me what the IAC looks like and where it is located?
The other night I removed a black plastic piece that goes into the air hose near the air filter. This part is hollow with a few thread like pieces-- as you can tell I am not mechanically gifted. Thanks for your time and assistance. I sprayed this part and towards the manifold and airfilter with carb and intake cleaner. Car started with no problems. Now, I am back to the same issue. Car takes forever to start
this part has been replaced regularly since the mid 90's on all our ford/mazda trucks. there appears to be NO effort at all to improve or redesign it. If there has been an internal change, it has not been an improvement. the same goes for the DPFE sensor(egr flow) if everyone in here hasnt replaced it yet on their tribscape, you will. This part has been noticeably redesigned over the years with no improvement. By the way, if anyone is interested in a 2002 complete intake assembly(including injector rail and the notorious IAC valve), leave your email and I will contact you. It came off an 02 trib that had a bad crankshaft 10k miles. Engine was replaced as a whole.
The IAC on the 3.0 V6 is located on the top
middle of the engine. You can see it and
access it very easily. It almost looks like a
small t-stat sitting on top. It is bolted on
w/two 10mm (I believe) screws and has an
electrical connector that will have to be detached
(easy). The best I can say is that it is
connected near to the black plastic FORD cover
but more on top as opposed to eiter side.
Unfortunately I don't have a digital camera and
cannot post any pictures. If someone does then
it would be good and it'd be easy to point out.
I did this 6 months ago and have since traded the Tribute in so I am going a foggy memory. I decided to try and clean the switch contacts.
Open the glasses holder to see two screws which hold the whole thing in place. Unplug the switch. Make sure you mark the orientation of the switch and remove it from the assembly. Used some contact cleaner and reinstalled it. There is not much access to the contacts, but to my surprise, it started working properly, even the express open feature.
Saved 40-50 bucks.
Good luck.
Thanks for the information on the moonroof switch. I printed it out so I don't lose it.
I appreciate your helpful advice.
Kim
Problem is I can't even remove the undercarriage in order to get underneath the fender to hammer it out. I unscrewed all the screws but it still won't budge.
Has anyone here tried this and what am I doing wrong? Is this the type of thing only a professional can fix?
It's a 2005 White Ford Escape very basic model.
Thanks.
I've got an '01 V-6 FWD XLT, and my mileage generally runs 17-18 City, 20-ish Hwy. Seems to me you should be getting a little better if yourengine is broken-in.
I've got a friend who has an '01 XLS 4-cyl. and it's getting 25+ mpg Hwy. consistently and about 21-22 City. Sounds like you're only getting ~20 mpg, but I don't know what the break-out is between City/Hwy driving.
Any Suggestions ??
If my driving habits give me 15 gallons out of the tank of gas, 4 more gallons would mean a lot less time spent at the gas station.
For the record, 10K miles, no vehicle problems, other than the one deer. I almost stopped in time, less than $1K damage, all cosmetic. Also a plug for Middleton Ford (near Madison WI)
Hood Pin purple/orange - pin switch or SJB, conn. B, pin 5
When I go and checked , I was surprised to see that there is no hood light on my 2005 Tribute. I still don't believe this. I looked and don't see a hood pin? Anybody know where the hood pin is located?
Thanks Jim
Thanks
Thanks
I am wondering if this is true? and if it is true, can I just disconnect the battery for about 10min. to reset the computer or codes?
Any responses greatly appreciated as I am having this problem now and must make a decision in the next couple days to get this problem fixed.
Thanks
The service writer said that since we did not buy the car from them, there would be a $94 charge for diagnostics, the repair itself would be covered under the airbag/seat belt warranty.
Has anyone else encountered this charge because you didn't buy the car there?
The dealer we bought from moved and it's now a real hassle for me to get the car there.
Our Excape also has the idle problem as well.
My daughter has a 2001 escape that will intermittently start but immediately die. At other times it starts fine, hot or cold. A local Ford dealer wants to flush injectors and put on new IAD, even though the car would not exhibit the problem while they had it. They quoted over $500!! I'm fairly handy and a new IAD costs about $60 so I'm going to replace it. Now the dumb question. Where is it and what does it look like? Her vehicle has about 55,000 miles on it.
Thanks,
Jay