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Dodge Sprinter Starting/Stalling Issues

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Comments

  • upsmechupsmech Member Posts: 1
    Hi, Im a fleet mechanic and some of my trucks are 05 sprinters w/2.7l 5 cyl engines. I had one overheat from a broken fan belt and they drove it back to the shop about 20 miles. Din't seam to hurt anything, replaced belt and idler pulley and topped off coolant, ran fine. about a month later (10,000 miles) the driver started complaining about black smoke coming from tail pipe mostly on take offs. Fuel pressure is normal, injector pulse is normal, no restrictions in intake assy. O2 sensor has been changed. I don't no if its related to overheating or not. Any ideas?
  • mr_djmr_dj Member Posts: 4
    Have any of you tried Slick 50? Works wonders on gas engines. Just a thought.
  • ronp9ronp9 Member Posts: 1
    Have you resolved your problem Floridadream? I have the exact same problem and my dealer finally came up with a solution. Have your dealer take a look at service bulletin # 24-001-09. It addresses idle instability and installs a rear A/C cutout module. My Sprinter is out of warranty but they covered it. I would think that your dealer would do the same for you seeing how you have had it into the shop for this problem during the warranty period. This bulletin only applies to 2003-2006 Sprinters with factory roof air.
  • sprintergurusprinterguru Member Posts: 24
    Your Sprinter Tech is incorrect. There are two watch type batteries inside your key fob. Your key is not communicating with the SKREEM module. You will not be able to fix this without taking it to the Dealer so they can reprogram your key to the module or you may have a defective module. Check the batteries first.
  • sprintergurusprinterguru Member Posts: 24
    If you have hard start, no start, lots of smoke try this:

    1. Remove the plastic injector cover (aka valve cover)

    2. Remove the clip at the top of each injector. Use a hook pick and just pull the clip sideways. Remove the fuel injector return lines from the top of each injector.

    3. Take a small vice grip and squeeze this line closed at the rear of the engine head or just behind the number five injector fitting. You are just keeping fuel from coming out of this line while cranking.

    4. Buy a couple feet of 3/8" ID clear vinyl tubing at Ace hardware. Cut yourself five 4" pieces of this tubing. Now your going to install the tubing onto the top of each injector, the tube will fit nice and snug around each injector top where you removed the return lines. Now you should have five clear pipes sticking up off your injectors. These will be like beakers that capture bypassed fuel that is forced through the injector during cranking.

    5. Disconnect the cam sensor near the number five injector, this will keep the engine from starting.

    6. Crank the engine for about 30 seconds non stop. Take a look at your injector tubes. You should not have more than about a 1/4" to 1/2" of fuel in those tubes, if you have an 1" or more or more fuel in one tube than another you have a bad injector or a whole set of bad injectors. Lets not be super picky here an 1/8" difference is not an issue between injectors. Im talking an inch in one injector and a 1/4" in another.

    Roy
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    I recently bought a load of bad fuel. Sprinter 2500 TDI started stalling at stops. eventually it would die on pulling up an incline. I had noticed the fuel pump in the tank being louder than usual. This problem would stop the engine the lights and gauges stayed on but no engine. After a week in the dealership they had changed the fuel rail dropped the tank and cleaned it swapped the tank pump the engine harness the module and finally they replaced the injectors although the engine seemed to run smoothly. Apparently the injector screens had become blocked enough to not allow full acceleration or a hard pull after the engine had warmed up! Hope this helps someone! :)
  • tintenttintent Member Posts: 1
    I've searched this board, to no avail and was wondering if anyone has the solution. The van has left me stranded and needed to be towed to a dealer three times in the last month. The van cranks, but does not start. It it then towed (on Dodge's dime), to the local Sprinter dealer (between 125-250 miles from where it wouldn't start). The first dealer said it was a faulty fuel pump and replaced it under warranty. The next time it happed it was towed to a different dealer and it started for them upon arrival. They kept it four days and couldn't replicate, so they said they couldn't fix. The last time (two days ago), it was towed to yet another dealer (Las Vegas), as we were on a trip, and the same thing. It wouldn't start when the tow truck arrived, nor when it was dropped off at the dealer, but the next morning it did start when the service tech went to trouble shoot it. They said the same thing as the Phoenix shop. Any ideas out there as to what is causing this? The van is a 2007 with ~16k miles on the odometer.

    Thanks a bunch in advance!!!!
  • jamesbarrettjamesbarrett Member Posts: 2
    I had this same problem with my 03 3500 sprinter with 145,000 miles. I changed the fuel filter and that fixed it. Your problem my not be that simple but it worked for me.
    Jim B.
  • floridadreamfloridadream Member Posts: 4
    Thanks. No the problem isn't resolved. I'm over the 3 year 36,000 mile warranty (have 40,000) and the rear A/C stopped squealing but it only blows very hot air and I learned not to use it. Today I'm doing an oil change and noticed the second belt is gone so I'm hoping and assuming that belt may have been part of the problem Dodge couldn't find all along. Looking for a diagram now for the tension.
  • floridadreamfloridadream Member Posts: 4
    2006 Sprinter posted before same issue. Kills over since the day I bought it brand new they couldn't find the problem. Almost always associated with the rear A/C running on mine, it has to be in park to start again so coasting off the interstate onto the highway with the rear A/C on is a dangerous move.
  • andtayandtay Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 Dodge Sprinter. It is at the dealership for the third time this year with stalling issues. My van will be running fine but when I push the gas pedal too hard to go up a hill or pass someone, the engine would cut off and I would have to pull over to the side of the highway, wait a few minutes, then restart the engine.

    The first time the the dealer changed out the module fuel tank, filter, and fuel hose and with labor the repairs came to $1116.00. The second time I took it in for the same issues, they replaced other things and the bill came to $1600.00. Now it is in the garage the third time, but this time the engine died when I turned a corner at 5 mph and I restarted it, but it would not go, as soon as I pressed the gas pedal, it would die. It would, however, go in reverse, so I backed up out of the way of traffic.

    Are there any suggestions on what I should do? My warranty was over at 85,000 miles and the van is at 89,000 miles now. Should I tell the dealership that they should have fixed it right the first time and demand they fix it for free? Or should I just go to a Mercedes dealer? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

    Andtay
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    I had the similar problem upon hard acceleration the engine shut off abruptly I would have to coast to the roadside and restart. After almost two weeks in the shop with no resolution they found that all 5 injectors had been contaminated with a fine dirt that the filter had missed. They all were replaced and the problem was never seen again. Watch where
    you buy your fuel. They also dropped the tank and flushed the system. They had tried the fuel rail and everything else even the wireing harness before they finally found the problem. Fuel starvation due to clogged injectors.
    Blessings
  • andtayandtay Member Posts: 7
    Thank you so much for your reply. I will ask about this and also watch where I fill the tank.
  • 2005sprint2005sprint Member Posts: 2
    Did the truck die completely or did it exhibit a power loss without the ability to accelerate?
  • 2005sprint2005sprint Member Posts: 2
    Have you noticed this problem with the cruise control on?
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    My problem started with an abrupt cut off like you had switched the ignition off. You had to coast to a stop to restart it then it would start immediately. The first thing in the morning it seems to run ok unless you floor it. then it starts dieing upon any thing other than very slight accelerator pressure. It took me 4 hours to make a 100 mile trip. The techs at the dealer replaced everything they could think of the wiring harness the fuel rail sensors they finally replaced all 5 injectors and that solved the problem It took them two weeks to finally solve it. I had bought fuel at a truck stop but I used the car diesel pump. Apparently it was contaminated with a very fine trash dirt or residue from a rusty tank.
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    I recently had a problem with my 2500. 2004 model 207000 miles It would start normally and run fine but if I stopped to get fuel or a cold drink about 10 minutes it would not restart it would spin and try to ignite but I had to wait about 10 more minutes or more to get a restart. Dealer changed the crank sensor first same problem. Then they changed the cam sensor problem solved. PS I paid full price for the crank sensor!!Yikes! The cam sensor the dealer had a hard time finding. It was over $400 I bought it from Europarts in California for $30 Check out their prices they are great fast delivery!!
  • andtayandtay Member Posts: 7
    It has never happened to me with cruise control on.
  • andtayandtay Member Posts: 7
    I got my Sprinter back from the dealer this past Saturday. The mechanic changed out the computer control module. At first they said they couldn't find the problem, then called a few days later and told me what they needed to replace. The good thing is I still had an extended warranty with just 1100 miles left on it and it was covered. I was very glad of that.
  • andtayandtay Member Posts: 7
    My Sprinter died completely after trying to accelerate. I could put it in drive, put on the gas, then it would die. It would restart each time though.
  • sprinter41sprinter41 Member Posts: 1
    My sprinter starts momentarily, reaches 500 RPM, then dies. After a few seconds, try again, and same thing happens. Someone told me the computer needs to be re-programmed? Would appreciate some advice, before taking it to a service shop.
    Thanks,
    Karl
  • valiantvaliant Member Posts: 2
    My Sprinter is stalling in the morning when I put my foot on the brake pedal.
    Did the instrument cluster FIX the problem?
  • valiantvaliant Member Posts: 2
    I disconnected the CAN lines at the cluster.
    DIDN'T fix the problem.
    Tested terminal 15 at Cluster.
    When it stalls it loses power at 15 at the cluster.
    Need to trace 15 from the cluster and find its cause for loss.
  • mmmttt007mmmttt007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004, 2500 Sprinter. At first I would occasionally have a problem with it going into limp home mode. Shut it down, wait a few minutes and start back up and it was fine. I took it to a mechanic who scanned it and told me the turo resonator was the issue. I replaced it. Was fine for about 4 months. After a few hours of trouble free driving I made a stop. Upon getting back in it would not start. Eventually started, ran rough and stayed in limp home mode. Back to the mechanic, was told it was the Mass Airflow Sensor. Replaced that.. still cannot get it to run. In fact, I can get it started if I unplug the MAF sensor. It runs rough and spews lots of black smoke. I am at my wits end. Can anyone help me? What's left? the o2 sensor, the air intake sensor? PLEASE HELP.
  • niebrzydowskiniebrzydowski Member Posts: 1
    I have almost 300,000 miles on my 2003 Sprinter, I drove on the highway and the engine instantly stopped. Then I was trying to cranking and the engine looked as if it was trying to start, but couldn't. Then I was waited for a tow truck. After about 15-20 minutes I was trying to start again and it starts normally, it brought me home about 120 miles almost like nothing happened.

    The next day in the morning it started normally and ran about 2 minutes and died. Now when I crank, I feel like it lost the cylinder compression. It looks like timing problem.

    Has anyone had a similar problem? Is it possible that this engine, with this mileage can get a problem with timing? Any suggestions? Desperate for help!!
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    My 2004 would start and run fine but if it stalled or if I turned it off at operating temp it would not start till I let it cool down Cam and crank sensors both bad. Replaced them now no problems hot or cold.
  • odisgoodisgo Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    Engine quit while driving then discovered a large coolant leak in reservoir. Had Sprinter towed to destination, now engine will not start. Solenoid does click, but starter will not turn the engine. Originally no codes, now MAF Sensor and a couple of others. Any help? At one point, however, I did remove one glow plug, and starter did turn engine, but would not crank.
  • sprinterman928sprinterman928 Member Posts: 1
    This happened to me in N.Carolina and I managed to get it back to Michigan, and immediately my boss put our 2005 dodge in the local sprinter shop . Pete , our very expierienced mechanic picked up an engine wiring harness that he had taken out of another 2006 and showed me where the wires and the wire loom had melted, and said with surety upon listening to me as to what it was doing, that we probably needed a new engine wire harness that controls everything in the engine area. Well needless to say 4 hours later and $450.00 , and a melted wiring harness on the floor , My bosses beloved toy that he bought new was running without fail,and has been since

    So the problem, with 75% surety, is to get your sprinter to a certified sprinter shop and have them check the engine wiring harness

    Joe
    Sprinterman928

    :)
  • tnhvacrtnhvacr Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    :lemon: Sprinter quitting when driver. :confuse: Ck your power windows at same time if it stops to due to no power . Your try to start and you get- Note ( 1 click on a relay > motor Relay or starter Relay)< The ground to Motor is Bad a Open in the grounding. ( Check by placing hand on ground post see if HOT!!!! ) Oem has 2 cables grounds. 1 from battery to frame other frame to motor. To fix this is easy run a new ground cable from motor mount bolt back to the ground on the battery.
    You can test by jumper cable motor to Ground Post TOO. It will turn over but slow. ;)
  • tampeltampel Member Posts: 2
    Here is my problem...have an 97 Sprinter, converted to a mobile grooming Van..around 30K miles with lots of ideling of the van. No I do have the engine go into emergency mode...can get it out of the emergency mode by restarting.
    Mercedes Dealer tells me I should replace everything, starting the turbo and the EGR, another certified sprinter serice dealer tells, the main computer needs to be replaced (2300$)...not sure what to do now...any advise. Van has been serviced every 6 months and is in very good shape otherwise
  • tampeltampel Member Posts: 2
    07 sprinter, not 97
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
    Hi All it's Funny i Have All of Those Problems and yes i will Be with you All For the Lawsuit , including the Dash ac Control i Changed 2 and need another one , and changed Transmission That Cost $7500 on 220,000mi Now My Motor Cutting Off ,Some Kind of Electric Problems ? and Changed the Harmanik Ballancer @ 95000mi , and 2 AC Compressors and 4 ac Lines,and All Turbo Rubber Houses 2 Times Have to By Pass the Ac Fan To Keep it Cool it Look Likes All Wiring All Messed up , Thanks For All of the Postings and Lets Find Solutions ?
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
  • fiteqprprfiteqprpr Member Posts: 12
    I had a similar problem found the crank sensor and the cam sensor would get hot and stop working. 10 minutes later it would start and run fine. Just don't turn it off.
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
    i Have the Same Problems , Now My Van in the Dealer, They Said Needs ignition Switch and Fuse Block and my Bill Going to Be around $700 Will see if That Fix it Tomorrow ?
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
    Hi any more Problems ?
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
    i Have Same Problems , Did you Fix it ?
  • aramounimaramounim Member Posts: 6
    i will Let you know What My Fix Later Okkkkk
  • clubfootclubfoot Member Posts: 2
    Engine occasionally shuts down when starting out going through about 15 mph, after 2-3 seconds it takes off again. Never does this at higher speed. Always at low speed and low rpm. Acts like it just ran out of fuel. Replaced fuel filter - no change.
  • elvodelvod Member Posts: 1

    @valiant said:
    I disconnected the CAN lines at the cluster.
    DIDN'T fix the problem.
    Tested terminal 15 at Cluster.
    When it stalls it loses power at 15 at the cluster.
    Need to trace 15 from the cluster and find its cause for loss.

  • bigjay3bigjay3 Member Posts: 11

    My first time Edmonds, sorry to hear all the trouble you guys are having, I have a 2005 freight sprinter, 25000K Diesel 100% love it, runs like a bull etc, HOWEVER bad brakes, pedal goes to the floor in the morning, after pumping about 20 times have good pedal and great stoping power, however on interstate if you dont use the brake for 15 minutes pedal goes way down, scares the hell out of me, Im a master mechanic had 4 master cylinders, was at dealers for 2 months, with factory rep, replaced, booster, master rotors etc, they put all the old parts back on and said, get it the hell out of here NO CHARGE, LOVE the vehicle but still brake problems, Im going to try to install a later year master if possible, If I ever cure it Ill be sure to llet you guys know how I did it, BIG JOHN 88 yrs old and still doing my own work, also aircraft

  • TopHVACRPROTopHVACRPRO Member Posts: 2
    Since these vans have a vacuum pump on the front of the cylinder head that provides mechanically pumped vacuume to the brake booster. If you put a tee in that line that you could cap later and attach a vacuum gauge you’d at least be able to eliminate that pump if you have good vacuume.
    Not sure, but there might be a hydraulic pump in the ABS That could give you a problem if it wasn’t working right.
  • TopHVACRPROTopHVACRPRO Member Posts: 2
    If there is a pump in the ABS. It could be electrically operated. If you have a blown fuse that powers it that might be a source of trouble that could lead to fixing your problem.
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