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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jkwhawaiijkwhawaii Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,

    My first try at posting. At issue is my mom's 2001 Tribute ES which I drove this past weekend. When cruising at various speeds, sometimes the transmission seems to clunk as the RPM drops to around 2.5K. It is almost like it is dropping into another gear but certainly is not very "normal" like as the car lurches a bit and there is an audible clunk. It always happens when decelerating. Twice, a fairly loud vibrating noise was also heard which went away after a couple of seconds. (ABS?)

    Well my brother and I checked what we could visually and the only thing we found is a strange unequal wear on the right front tire. This tire does not show an uneven wear pattern indicating that alignment seems OK but it is clearly worn down with respect to the other three. I would say that more than half the thread is gone while the other three still show 3/4.

    Is there a transmission problem causing the tire wear or is it the other way around? We have heard of a dragging brake causing similar problems with unequal tire wear but have not seen anything about transmission/differential problems. The steering is fine with no pulling and the transmission oil levels and color looks good.

    She has only 24K miles on the Tribute. Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    John
  • farmrcafarmrca Member Posts: 1
    I have an '03 that made some noise when I would brake. I thought I had a rock in the brake. Before I could get it to the dealer the whole thing broke and now I need a new case. What kind of noises were you hearing? Thanks
  • susan2006susan2006 Member Posts: 1
    My car was broken into the other day. The glass on passenger side was broken. Door is ok. All broken glass was removed by window replacement but the door will not close properly. It has been up at the Ford Dealership 3x's this week. Each time told the door is fixed but when I drive home the door flies open. I have an appt on Monday with the Ford manager but I figured I would check the internet to see if anyone else has had this kind of problem b4. Please help!!!! :mad:
  • ashn888ashn888 Member Posts: 14
    I'm new to the forum so I apologize if this has already been suggested. My 2002 Tribute also had crackling / flexing sounds soon after I purchased it (Sept. 01). They drove me crazy. After spraying/oiling/lubing every possible thing, it turned out to be the door hinges (most noticeable in cold weather). Since I started spraying them regularly with white lithium grease, I have had no more problems and in fact my Tribute has absolutely NO squeaks or rattles at 76k miles.

    I hope this helps
  • angry01tributeangry01tribute Member Posts: 1
    I own an 01 Tribute that is now decesed due to a ceased engine. I personally took care of the maintance on this vehicle including every single oil change, air filter change, tune ups etc. This car is 5 years old this month and had 81,000 miles on it. My wife was driving on a highway and almost got killed when the engine died. If the check engine light continually comes on, please be very careful. The dealer's official diagnosis "your vehicle needs a new motor". Garbage Frod engine. I am awaiting a response from Mazda. I have no idea why I thought anything with a Ford engine would be anything disposable.
  • wcannon786wcannon786 Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 2002 mazda tribute and while starting the intake valve blew apart. Can you please tell me more about the dealer recall specifics since the dealer is ready to charge me over $800 to replace the valve, gasket and one other part that got damaged as a result.
    Thank you
  • tclinetcline Member Posts: 5
    The LCD back light for the gear selector has gone out. The gauges are still lit but the P R N D 2 1 digital LCD is dark. What could be the problem? I hope a fuse and not a costly repair. Any ideas?
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Sorry to hear about your engine, was it the 4 or 6 cyl. ? My '01 Escape XLT V6 so far shows no signs of premature failure or anything, but it's hard to gauge as I'm sure you know, what may be happening internally all the time. I've got 83.5K miles now using synthetic oil from 25K.

    Will Mazda have engineers come and take a look at the engine to see if they can find out what may have caused this? If not, they should. You may want to insist on this or there may be a legitimate claim agianst Mazda. I agree that it was a totally dangerous situation for the engine to seize-up. Also, see if Mazda may be willing to contribute good-faith money to the cost of an engine. It happens a lot when customers push a little, that is you're willing to do this, which you may not be at this point.

    A new 3.0 V6 short-block engine (probably re-man'd in actuality) is listed at FordPartscheap.com for ~$1334.00 + shipping. The install could be ~15-hrs. at $75.00/hour or thereabouts. Total could be as high as $2700+ by my figures for another engine. :(
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    According to FordPartsCheap.com the parts needed to repair the intake manifolds(s)[upper and lower] should cost ~$240.00+ shipping. Two (2) manifolds, 6-gaskets, gasket-lube, what else is needed ? I'm not sure if you have the 4 or 6 cyl.. The 4-cyl. manifold is $135.00+ shipping. Not sure what the other part you mentioned is, but I'm not sure why the dealer is figuring $800.00.

    Changing spark-plugs, where you have to remove the intake manifold(s) and change gaskets pays about 2.5-hours which would be $190.00. Factor a little profit for the dealer and you have ~$500.00 Total. Ask the dealer to be specific and line-item all of the charges in advance.
  • ramzey28ramzey28 Member Posts: 130
    Has anyone notice a popping noise come from the seat when you first go to sitt in the seat. It comes from the back of the seat(cushion) and not the bottom cushion. Sounds like a plastic popping noise, only happens once when you first sit in the seat and push back into it to get situated. ???
  • gvallejogvallejo Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem 2003 escape v6 it was the rack & pinion cost about $350 parts & labor at a reasonable mechanic.
  • bbklavanbbklavan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Escape and my light for my 4X4 isn't working right, it blinks three times then stops and repeats every minute or so. In some cases I can't get the light to come on at all.

    I have had it in the shop 3 times (this will be the 4th). Is anyone having this problem? I can't drive 40 miles to work everyday wondering if my 4 wheel drive is going to kick in.
  • ramzey28ramzey28 Member Posts: 130
    I have a 2005 tribute, and I can tell my 4wd is working but the light never goes on when it kicks in, I figured it wouldnt due to the automatic 4wd system. Did know it was suppose too? Anyone else notice this?
  • dannyboy78dannyboy78 Member Posts: 1
    We own a 2002 Tribute with 75k miles. For the last several months our Tribute cuts off right after starting. We have to keep our foot on the gas to keep the RPMs above 1000 for a couple of minutes before it's ok. The longer it sits without running, the worse the problem. Any suggestions?
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Two or more issues may affect the hard-start problem:
    1.) Have you changed your IAC (Idle Air Control module)?
    This could have an affect on starting, and stalling,
    etc.. To replace takes about 10-minutes and costs
    $75.00 for the part.
    2.) Have you had the factory EPROM updated per at least 1-
    recall ? This also could affect stalling at speed.

    There very well could be other issues, such as a dirty intake, which should be cleaned every 15-20K miles, bad coil-over plug boots, corrupt spark plugs, etc..
  • phessephesse Member Posts: 3
    When I took my new Tribute (3.0 L, V6, Classic 2005) the first time to the beach I did not deflate the tires and got bogged in the ruts. Sand was very soft and all 4 wheels were covered with sand (about 1/3rd). Tried to reverse down the embankment, but none of the wheels moved (I was in 4WD lock). Got free with snatchum strap. Same happend again in the country trying to get up a steep hill. Mazda had no answer to this.
    Could this be normal and if so, why?
  • kostasgrkostasgr Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with a 2005 Escape. Will try lithium grease. Thanks for the hint
  • markmergmarkmerg Member Posts: 2
    I have the same LCD light problem with my 2004 Escape.

    I was wondering if you ever figured our how to fix this.

    Thanks
  • escapeinlaescapeinla Member Posts: 1
    Hey pygomer, i am also noticing the same behavior in my V6 2wd, wondering if you found out more about this issue.
  • bd70bd70 Member Posts: 30
    I can't for the life of me, find where in the manual it tells you how to calibrate the compass on the mirror. I can always call my dealer, but I figure that some input here might save me the call. Thanks!
  • dex100dex100 Member Posts: 3
    I'm also curious about this problem -- my odometer backlight just went out on my 2002 Tribute (60K).
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    If I assume you have an automatic transmission, then the answer may be that the engine is being "bogged down" by the transmission and/or torque converter not allowing high enough crankshaft RPMs to generate the torque needed to rotate the wheels. This does not necessarily mean that anything is wrong with the drive train. Keep in mind that the Escape/Tribute was not built to be an off road recreational vehicle. In an emergency, you might get the wheel rotation you seek by revving the engine in neutral and jerking the tranny into gear. You just might seriously damage the drive train, though.
  • reetercatreetercat Member Posts: 2
    :cry: I have a 2005 FWD Escape XLT with 18K miles on it. I've had loud brakes, black dust and squealing since day one. I took it to the dealer and they said that it was, "normal". Now at 18K miles, they tell me that I need new brakes. Something about hard pads vs. soft pads wearing out and the "driver" ... blah blah blah. Is that normal? Oh - and I have to pay for it. No 36K warranty to be seen anywhere on this one!
  • bj02176bj02176 Member Posts: 115
    I have a 2005 4wd xlt, 21,000 miles, no squealing, no black dust, it has disk brakes on all 4 though. Very good brakes overall.
  • tributestinkstributestinks Member Posts: 1
    I started my 2001 Tribute and when I tried to shift into Drive the handle pretty much slipped back and forth (didn't click into R, N, D, etc.). I wiggled it a little and now the display thinks it is in Neutral, but the handle position is at the top as if it is in Park. It will not move out of that position. Key can be removed/replaced and it will re-start as if in Park but display shows the box outline around N. Replaced battery in May and had terminals cleaned last month (as the battery was DEAD and wouldn't even jumpstart). Local dealer wants me to tow it in. Favorite shop is closed until after the 1st. Any ideas?
  • bigeddiebigeddie Member Posts: 2
    The same happened to me but my Tribute is a 2002 model and I wonder if this is a safety feature built into the tribute so as not to damage the transmission. Also the air conditioning unit shut down. When I got towed out of the bog and after a period of about 15 minutes or so driving the air conditioner re started.
  • reetercatreetercat Member Posts: 2
    Yeah, I think I got a bad batch of brakes. I just dug out my receipt from 5K miles when the brakes were noisey and touchy the first time. I was told then that it's "normal" . I've been doing research and I'm find that having rotors and brakes replaced at 18K seems to be unheard of!
  • gaetangaetan Member Posts: 1
    I had that problem and I had to be towed to the dealer to replace the ignition but I think the problem is the key itself check on the side if the tiny slot is damage
  • sks2sks2 Member Posts: 1
    Hoping you can help. A week ago I had my brakes checked, tires rotated, fluids changed, and radiator flushed. Three days later my 2002 Ford Escape xlt started to squeak every time I turned the wheel. I checked the steering fluid and it is full. This vehicle only has 33,000 miles on it and was running fine until I took it in for routine maintenance. Do you have any ideas what could be causing this noise?
    sks
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Could you possibly narrow down the location from which the noise comes? First, is it in the cab or under the hood? Then, where from there?
  • 00jake0000jake00 Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 03 escape. The General AMeritrac tires are bald after 20K of mileage. The dealer is no help. I am told that it is up to me to prove manufacturer defect. Has anybody come up with a solution on this?
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    I would presume that the place where you took your vehicle did something to the brakes or your steering components so you would have to bring the vehicle back for costly repairs. If you think I am kidding, think again, it is done all the time by private garages as well as new car dealer service departments.
    Do all your maintenance checks yourself. If you can't, get word of mouth references for a good mechanic. Not the one that is most convenient to go to, or does a lot of advertising. Good mechanics don't need to advertise...
  • 24kilo24kilo Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2003 Escape Limited, The horn doesn't work, Book says the fuse id suppose to be top drivers side fuse hole under the hood. Problem is it's a blank hole, so where's the fuse? BTW The Panel diagram and the owners manual jibe up, Haynes manual doesn't show it, and can't find it in the schematics
  • patcalpatcal Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Trib DX with the 2.0L I4. I have a rough & unsteady idle after the car is warmed up. I also have no codes. I pulled the IAC & cleaned it with carb cleaner. While it was out I checked it for resistance between the plug & got 9.7Ohms. I re-installed the thing & still have this issue. I have checked for vacuum leaks but found none. Before I spend $117 (local dealer price) for a new IAC, what else should I look at? Thanks.

    Pat Callaghan
  • nitelitenitelite Member Posts: 4
    we also have a 01 Tribute that is dead. We brought it in 4 times for a stalling issue, just last month after spending 585.00 to fix it, stalled on the way home at 50 mph, after being parked it won't start. You can also file complaints with nhtsa.gov and autosafety.org. I have and so have many others. Best of luck to you. We are fighting the same battle.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I am wondering what response you might get if you offered to trade it in at the original dealer's place for some other vehicle. This might give you a far better insight into what they really think about the problem, and possibly give you some "ammunition" for further action-- or make the trade, if the offer is good enough.
  • ukbornukborn Member Posts: 1
    How is this done when the door won't open to give you access to the front panel screw? :confuse:
  • dbarron59dbarron59 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Tribute, purchased 7/02, with less than 35,000 miles and am told I need a new exhaust manifold. I am past the 36 month warranty period, but obviously concerned that a manifold would go out with less than 35,000 miles on it. Anyone have any information on hidden warranties, or ideas how to approach dealing with such an expensive repair so early?
  • tclinetcline Member Posts: 5
    I am sorry, I haven't figured it out yet. It seems as though right around 60k miles it dies. I recently pulled the dash apart to look at it hoping it was a bulb but I could not see anything. I didn't want to pull the whole assembly apart to investigate further for fear of breaking something else. If anyone else has figured it out, please post the problem. Thanks. :sick:
  • markwoodmarkwood Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem - brakes gone after 20,000 miles on a Ford Escape 2005. I agree - this is unheard of on any vehicle with this low mileage. No adjustment offered at the dealer. Did you get any relief from Ford? I can't send $275 for new front end brakes every 20,000 miles. Also - per the dealer the rears are being reworked from some recall. Anyone have any suggestions??
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    The best thing I ever did for a Jeep Grand Cherokee was put in NAPA near premium pads and rotors. The cost was close to $300 for parts and well worth it, to get rid of the maddening brake wear that Jeep doesn't see fit to address themselves!
  • bob_mcbobbob_mcbob Member Posts: 9
    Do your brakes make a groaning noise when used downhill or making a sharp stop? Mine do, and I find it somewhat disconcerting. It almost feels like they're slipping.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I put Raybestos Ceramic Pads on the front the last change, but the rear brake shoes at 87K miles are still good. My first brake job with Ford was at 26K with the OEM pads for close to $500. I told myself," never-again ..." with the OEM, so I switched to aftermarket and haven't looked back. On average the aftermarket pads have lasted 30-40% better. My current brakes are the 3rd brake job on front. Haven't spent over $250 for parts and labor since the first-time. The Raybestos Ceramic do not 'dust-up' like the OEMS. My wheels looked terrible even after a day's drive with the OEM's. It seems Ford uses the same brake material for all their models; cars, trucks, etc.. The wheels are all black from brake-dust. The ceramic hardly dust at all.
  • motionneonmotionneon Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem. All started after a repair to my windshield wiper controls, leading me to believe its a fuse or something. My seat heaters don't work either, all began at the same time. The manual says the 4wd needs servicing if it blinks 3 times/minute, but I don't know if the 4wd will kick in if needed either. I drove to work today in >12" snow without problems, but its a front-wheel drive car, so not sure if 4wd was working.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    My 2005 is all wheel drive and in the snow the response is seamless and excellent, as well.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    '05 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual, AWD. I agree, the i-AWD is excellent. It might even be more capable than the full time system I had in my 90 Mitsubishi Galant.
  • dangescapedangescape Member Posts: 1
    Hey Snowman,
    I want to flush my tranny oil on my 2001 Escape XLS. First, where is the drain plug relative to the oil drain plug? How many quarts of MerCon ATF oil will be needed? Any other other considerations?

    Thanks.
    DangEscape
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Don't mean to butt-in, but do you want to drain or flush the transaxle ? Draining alone will empty about 50%+ of the old stuff. There may be a lot of old fluid left in the torque-convertor and other crevices. That's why I've flushed.

    I'll check my ALLDATA subscription on drian plug location if any. I've flushed the transaxle from 25K miles to now ~88K miles, all totalled 3-flushes. If you take it to a shop to flush, make sure that they have the right equipment to do the job. I've BG flushed once and Wynn's flushed the other two (2) times. I really can't tell a drivable difference, other than the Wynn's flush is about 1/2 the price of the BG to have done, $100 as opposed to $200. I also converted to straight Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF from the Mercon V I had originally. I bought the Mobil 1 at Pep-Boys myself and brought it to the shop. The shop only charged me about $50 since I brought my own fluid which was bout $50. The CD4E transaxle takes about 10.2 quarts, bring 11 quarts if you buy it yourself.

    BTW: There is a drain plug located under and off to the side of the transaxle, it seems it has a square recessed cut-out as if possibly for a ratchet, not sure what size. I'll check the shop manuals I've got too.

    As a side, with everything going to online or CD access for shop-techs in dealerships (or a lot of them), for those that want shop-manuals, they may give them to you for free if they can.
  • rayp3rayp3 Member Posts: 1
    Alot of times the squeak will be the steering horn button. Use some wd 40 and spray in the space located between the steering wheel and column. Should fix it. Use lightly, Don't over spray it.
  • 67cougarman67cougarman Member Posts: 1
    My girlfriend has a very low mileage 2001 Tribute. She recently took it in for some recall work to her Mazda dealer. When she got it back the airbag light wouldn't go off. So, she took it back. They had unplugged the airbags. She drove the car home. Next morning the thing will not start. Everything works but, when you turn the key there is no click, no turning over of the engine. Towed it back to the dealer. They did something. She drove it home and the next morning same thing. I had her try the buttons on the key fob. That didn't work. Can you tell me what it was that you had to do to the Keyless Entry to fix this problem?
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