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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • utahescapeutahescape Member Posts: 2
    I have a rattle in my 2003 Escape which is very distracting when driving over certain surfaces, usually concrete above 40 MPH. I have taken off the seat belt parts and ruled out the seat belt mechanism. I have even tried stuffing cut up sponges into the post and it made no difference. Any ideas how to stop this annoying rattle? :mad:
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I have an '01 Escape, and unless Ford has changed the seatbelt configuration, I've found that the rattle on mine was coming from the belt being twisted where the metal seatbelt insert was hitting the post and causing the rattle. It ussually happens if someone sits in the passenger seat and the seatbelt gets twisted when they let themselves out.

    On yours it could be some piece of metal or something that may have been inadvertantly left in or on the frame during assembly or something that's worked it's way loose. Are you still under warranty, if so take it back to the dealer ?
  • harleyrider2harleyrider2 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2003 Ford Escape which I bought new. I had it serviced by the dealership every time it was needed. At 58k I was having some front end noise so I thought I would take it in early and do the 60k service and see if they could find where the noise was coming from and fix it. They call me later that day and told me the I needed brake pads and my front wheel bearing had gone out on me. So I had them do the service and brake pads and wheel bearing and walked out of there $898 less money. Part of the 60k service is to flush and replace the transmission fluid which my bill reflexes they did. At 64k (6000 miles later) my automatic transmission won't shift into 3rd. I took the car into the dealer and they told me something failed inside the tranny and they would have to tear it down to find the problem. Cost: $105 to tell me this. Oh by the way the Overdrive off light was flashing if this means anything to any of you. Anyway I found someone other than the dealer to do the work for about $500 less that the quote I got from the dealer. I'll never go back to another dealer for any kind of service again or buy a Ford again.
  • harleyrider2harleyrider2 Member Posts: 2
    Read #3288 which is my story. I too was coming down out of the mountains when the tranny went out. I had turned off Overdrive off switch until I got down out to the hills and turned it back on when I hit flat land. Sure sounds like we had the same kind of problem and the got shafted the same way.
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Member Posts: 71
    Looking at buying a really nice 04 DX AWD 5spd. Any thoughts or experiences with this vehicle?

    I've read on the web stuff about Tributes that are made in US vs. Japan -- any specifics to that?

    Thanks all.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    Really easy. There is a threaded plug on the bottom that a 3/8" socket extension fits. Removing that will drain just under 4 quarts of fluid out of a total of 10 quarts.

    So the procedure is to do the drain, refill it, run the engine for 5 minutes while shifting through the gears and repeat once or twice more or until the drained fluid look fresh. I just did mine using 3 gallons of Dexron III/Mercon. This is a very simple procedure and you can do this yourself, no need to spend money and have someone else do it for you unless you want to. Doing this procedure will flush and change about 80% to 85% of the tranny fluid including the torque converter. The new fluid will mix with the fluid in the torque converter. Even though you can't drain the converter completely unless you have the proper equipment, this is next best method. Use a good brand of Dexron III/Mercon also, Motorcraft is good, but I prefer Pennzoil brand.

    Remember only use DEXRON III/MERCON no matter what the dipstick or the manual says.

    I plan on doing this every 40K miles AND at every other oil change drain the almost 4 qts of tranny fluid and replace with almost 4 qts.

    The Escape auto trans is problematic. Any type of preventive maitenance will keep it running better and longer.
  • loblolly1loblolly1 Member Posts: 1
    I licked the problem! It's the plastic inside door panels rubbing against the metal door frame. Open all doors-remove any screws from the inside door handle grabs and the side of the front door panels. GENTLY grab the panel top edge where it meets the glass (roll windows down first!)Get a good clear lube that does not attract water and dust such as a tube of lube gel from Radio Shack and apply a line on the sides and back of each panel as best you can. Take your time-pop panels back on and viola! The creaking will disappear! ;)
  • 87mazdab260087mazdab2600 Member Posts: 3
    i noticed that you owned a b2600
    i have a 87?
    you wouldent happpen to know the fireing order on that would you?
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I have also used this excellent "progressive dilution" principle. It works very well for power steering as well as transmissions.
  • jaheaneyjaheaney Member Posts: 1
    After leaving my ignition key on for 8 hours, my battery fully drained. It started with a jump the next day, but now the radio, inside lights, key fob door lock and trip odometer do not work.

    Any ideas what needs to be done to get electic system working properly?
  • pilot9pilot9 Member Posts: 3
    The most I've driven with my 03 is 25 miles and sitting on the red line.
  • brad54brad54 Member Posts: 5
    Hello,

    The light for the gear selector on my wife's Escape went out. Can this be fixed by replacing a fuse or is it more likely to be a bulb that needs replaced?
  • brayboyjbrayboyj Member Posts: 1
    Got it check from dealer can,t find the problem but now the 2002 ford escape will bottom out if I get on the gas. And runs ruff. I was told to change my Ignition Coil I need to find out what the problem is before I pay for something I don't need. Please help me out!!!! :(
  • pmeindlpmeindl Member Posts: 2
    I had a battery go bad in my escape. According to autozone, the battery's cell went bad. Anyway, i jumped it and replaced the battery. However, i noticed too that my radio, dome lights dont work. As a matter of fact, it appears that every time i turn the key off now, it kills power to everything that work when the key is on like headlights, power door locks, keyless entry and etc.

    I pulled my battery terminal off last night just to see if something needed to reset. I too am stumped as to why everything worked before the bad battery, but not after the bad battery.
  • pmeindlpmeindl Member Posts: 2
    I have an 02 escape xls v-6 with 85,000 miles on it. Only problem i have had so far was after a battery dying, my radio nor lights work. Other than that, its been a good vehicle. I also towed a small trailer and boat with it before Katrina. It was easier hauling small trailers with that over a f-350. But so far, i have been pleased with its performance.

    Like another person said, the trans that failed in afew hundred miles is a factory defect. Most other stories about trans failing (like at 60,000 - 80,000 miles) are usually because the fluid and filters are never changed. I change my engine oil every 3,000 - 5,000 and trans fluid and filter every 30,000 - 35,000 miles.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    "and trans fluid and filter every 30,000 - 35,000 miles."

    All Escapes have the CD4E automatic transmissions. This transmission has NO servicable filter. Inside the transmission there is a screen that provides some sort of filtering. The only way to access this screen is take the transmission apart. Some mechanically inclined owners have installed their own outboard filters in the return transmission coolant line from the radiator.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    You should get that Mobil 1 synthetic oil out of the CD4E transmission before you do permanent damage to the transmission.

    After reading the message below I called Ford and they did confirm that only Dexron-III/Mercon made from natural oils (no synthetics)should be used in the CD4E transmission which is used in all Ford Escapes.

    Ford Special Service Message 16896:

    SPECIAL SERVICE MESSAGES 16896
    2001-2004 ESCAPE USE ONLY 'MERCON' -- NOT 'MERCON V' OR 'MERCON SYNTHETIC' FOR THE CD4E TRANSMISSION ALL 2001-2004 ESCAPE VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH A CD4E AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE EXCLUSIVELY USE 'MERCON' FLUID -- NOT 'MERCON V' OR 'MERCON SYNTHETIC'. MERCON IS THE ONLY FORD APPROVED AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE FLUID FOR USE IN THE CD4E. MERCON FLUID PART # IS XT-2-QDX (QUARTS) AND XT-2-DDX (55 GALLON DRUM). FOR CANADA MERCON FLUID PART # IS CXT-2-BM FOR BULK, CXT-2-4LM FOR 4 LITRE BOTTLES, AND CXT-2-LM12 FOR 1 LITRE BOTTLES.

    Do not use synthetic Dexron III/Mercon or Mercon V in the CD4E transmission. Use Dexron III/Mercon made from natural oil. The is a case where the cheapest is better, no additives or inhibitors added, the trans does not like those things.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    How about my 2005 V6 Escape XLT? What tranny fluid should it have?
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    quote myself; "After reading the message below I called Ford and they did confirm that only Dexron-III/Mercon made from natural oils (no synthetics)should be used in the CD4E transmission which is used in all Ford Escapes.

    Unless you DON'T have a CD4E transmission, read the above. The dipstick and handle were changed in 2003 or 2004 to read "USE MERCON"...

    Do NOT use Mercon V or synthetic Dexron-III/Mercon. Just regular Dexron-III/Mercon...it's not that hard to remember..

    This fluid is sold as Dexron-III/Mercon....I have yet to see just Mercon on any bottle of this fluid...reason is the fluid can be used in some GM transmission as well as Ford and other types of transmission requiring either Dexron-III or Mercon...
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I've been running Mobil 1 Synthetic Transmission Fluid since about 45K miles, when the tranny was well out of warranty. I currently have 88K miles, no problems. The shift-points are smoother and generally the tranny has functioned as normal (or better than). My tranny dipstick from the factory even says Mercon V, which I was told in earlier posts was a factory error/flub-up. Funny thing was I ran the tranny on Mercon V after a flush at 25K miles, no problems. When I converted to the Mobil 1 Synthetic I hesitated at first, but decided to go ahead d/t Mobil 1 being compatible with all fluids and most transmissions with few exceptions. Still no problems yet.

    I talked with a very reputable transmission shop in town. The owner stated that the CD4E is problematic and usually has had a history of cratering at 75-80K miles. Ford did some modifications to the CD4E to bolster it a bit before it went in the Escape or so I've heard. I'm banking on my average of every 25K+ miles flushing the transmission to avert problems. May or may not happen, but if I go over 100K miles (probably by EoY 2006) with the transmission functioning as normal, then there may be something to be said for the Mobil 1 syn. trans. fluid changeover. I firmly believe flushing the main fluids in any car should be done as matter of course every 30K miles. At least I'm sold on it.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    Believe me, if what you say is true, your case IS the exception and NOT the rule...

    I don't have enough fingers and toes to count the number of trannys that went south because Ford or the owners used Mercon V or synthetic Dexron-III/Mercon...

    www.escape-central.com...engines and transmissions
  • phoneguy1phoneguy1 Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 2002 Escape for about 2 years. I love this vehicle, but for the last few months the radio has been behaving erratically. It will go into the seek mode all by itself. Or it will skip to the next CD if I'm in that mode. Sometimes it turns on all by itself or will jump between FM mode and CD mode. I think it is possessed. Has anyone else had problems with the 6 CD radio? Is there a fix outside of a new radio or aftermarket radio?
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Don't know what to say, other than I tried it and it has worked for me so far. However, I realize that the CD4E is problematic and could crater at anytime regardless of what I have in the transmission.

    My transmission-questions experience with Ford corporate and the purchasing Ford dealership were not great, because my Escape was out of warranty. The dealer told me not to worry about the Mercon V dipstick (out-of-sight, out-of-mind) and Ford corporate did not seem too terribly worried one way or the other. So based on a good mechanic's advice I went with the Mobil 1 Synthetic tranny fluid at 45K miles (I posted 25K in a previous post.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    You know what they say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"...just continue what your doing if the tranny is running good...sometimes you wonder who to believe anymore and the only way of truly finding out is from your own personal experience...
  • cruise1cruise1 Member Posts: 8
    Hi:
    I too have a 2002 Tribute. I didn't buy it new but used in August 2005. I strongly suspect that it is a cracked Exhaust Manifold. Are you having a lot of fumes coming into the car when the heater motor is running? That is my problem. My car has 53,000 miles on it. I'm told that if you have a 3 way valve Catalist on your manifold you are under warrantee up to 80,000 miles. It is a difficult job that will take some time to fix. Let me know more about what you experienced with your problem. Good luck!
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    ALLDATA says that the parts are $510 for RH manifold and $325 for the LH manifold + 2.7 and 1.4 hrs. labor respectively to replace each separately. A mechanic friend has told me that I've got a minor crack in mine that hasn't expanded yet, so no problem so far, but it could become one later. Seems hard to believe that parts and labor could run so high or effectively about $1400-$1500 to replace both manifolds. According to what you wrote, I may have been covered up to 80K miles, but am well past that now. Oh well...
  • cruise1cruise1 Member Posts: 8
    2002 Mazda Tribute. I bought it in August 2005. Using the air conditioning never showed the problem of strong exhaust smell in the duct system. Once I used the heater I had this "strong exhaust" smell. When I stop at the light it is so strong that I must turn the blower switch off. I took it to a garage and we hoist the car and found not leak at the donut. We opened the hood and found a very strong exhaust smell at the exhaust side of the engine. We heard the leak. I took it to a Mazda dealership in PA, and they checked it out. I got the message that their is no exhaust leak. Later found that this was one of their best Mechanic's, said. They sprayed lemon disinfect in the vent system saying that mildew is in the air condition system. I don't believe them. I do not have an odor when driving down the road with the air conditioning or heater motor on. I have been a mechanic since I was 15 years old. I am now 62 and still doing it but at a slower pace. Who can I contact to get this heard? Now I have 53,000 miles on the car. The exhaust manifold has a 3 way Cataylist valve system on it. That gives me warranty up to 80,000 miles on the exhaust manifold. I'm not happy that I am driving a car that isn't allowed to be on the road because of exhaust leaks according to the Pennsylvania inspection code. Something must be done soon. I feel they need to check this smell with a meter that detects exhaust Carbon M. Thanks Please get back to me on this.

    PS. Today, I went down to the dealership and the service manager was very courteous and tried to smell the gases under the hood. I felt sorry for him because he had been sick with a head cold and couldn't smell. He offered to have another Mechanic look it over. I respect that. But after he said that we started to just touch the throttle under the hood and speed up the Rpms. He noticed the exhaust lead through sound. It is now being going over. I don't know where they will find the leak. Pleas respond if anyone has had this kind of problem with their Mazda or Escape. Thank You
  • cruise1cruise1 Member Posts: 8
    I don't understand what is being said when you said your friend said: RH manifold & LH manifold! It just doesn't make sense that both exhaust manifolds are cracked. In my case the odor is coming from the firewall side which is close to the windshield. I do know that the dealer said that if any manifold is cracked up to 50,000 miles you are protected through the warrantee. If above that amount up to 80,000 miles and you have a 3 way Catalist attached to exhaust manifold. By giving your vin number you will know if you have this 3 way set up. Do you get a lot of fume in the heater system??? That's my problem. What I understand you saying is that you are way past the 80,000 miles. Do you know that the exhaust manifold is steel? You could take it to a reliable indepenent garage and have them take it off and weld the manifold. That was one offer I got from a friend of mind who has been in the garage business for quite a while. You don't want to run the high risk of having gases in your car and perhaps die. Let me know what you think! Thanks
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Can't remember which exhaust manifold it was but one of them was cracked, but not all the way through, so no exhaust fumes, etc. in the car yet. The friend indicated that it may have to replaced or fixed one of these days, but hopefully not nay time soon. It'd be a rather expensive fix, unless the bead-weld might fix the problem, if the it was fixable like that.
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 Ford Escape. Lately some wierd problems have been happening, milage is currently at 67K. First thing to occur was that it wouldn't want to always crank up. It wouldn't roll over until keeping cranking it much longer than its supposed to. Hasn't done it in a while, I cleaned the battery terminals, but also has been cooler outside if that has something to do with it.

    Next thing that occurred was the radiator fluid light is on constantly. The fluid was full when I check it, and the car never gets passed the middle mark on the thermostat, infact it never budges at all. Had the radiator flushed, still does it.

    The most recent and the BIG BIG problem that worries me is that the overdrive light has started flashing. The speedometer started acting erractic around the same time, jumping from around 20mph to 60 although going the same speed. Got the transmission fluid changed.. it didnt do the overdrive light thing for a week. Fiance called today and said it started flashing again.... Haven't noticed any performance changes cept that today she said it seemed like it was changing gears a lot more than normal.

    Please help, there is no possible way I can afford a new transmission... and I fear that is what it is coming too :(
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Many thanks for clarifying your answer with response 3304. I went ahead and asked about 2005 Escapes, wanting to be sure as to whether or not your previous statement applied only through 2004 models.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    1st problem sounds like an IAC (Idle Air Control motor) problem. Have you ever changed it? If not a Motorcraft replacement costs $50 and you can replace it in 10-15 minutes. If you can't do it, find a friend who knows how or take it a shop. You can clean the IAC with carb-cleaner and it'll help, but it'll have to be replaced soon anyway. The inside of the IAC gets all gummed and carboned-up (you'll notice it once you take it off) which hinders the controls actions. Couldn't hurt.

    2nd problem I had when my '01 Escape was new, but filling the overflow tank to full mark cured the light coming on. In your case this could be the overflow tank sensor or possibly another sensor. You'll need to take this into a shop for them to diagnose or scan.

    3rd problem may be a big one as you say. I'd take the Escape to a reputable tranny-shop instead the dealer if you can help it. The dealer will probably recommend complete replacement to the tune of $3K+. It may need it anyway, but at least a good tranny-shop can give you a few options. The CD4E transmission is known to be problematic if not pampered but maybe so anyway. I've done flushes about every 25K miles since new. Kind of expensive over the long-term, but I think it's provided some peace-of-mind and maybe some actual preventative help.

    I'm not a mechanic, but have been on this board long-enough and have owned my Escape long enough to have seen quite a few of the same issues / fixes crop-up over the last several years.
  • tclinetcline Member Posts: 5
    I know about the radiator fill light, I had the exact same problem with my 2001 escape. Unfortunately you have to replace the overflow tank. It is a one piece sealed unit that houses the sensor. The sensor is nothing more than a ball that floats in a tube inside the tank. I guess over time the ball gets gunked up and sinks on it own, making contact with the sensors so the low light is constantly on. I tried at first to take the tank off and clean the ball/sensor but it is also enclosed (no way to get at it). Dont go to Ford on this one, they wanted close to 80.00 for the tank alone. I went to some ford parts stores online and ordered it for about 50.00. It is easy enough to put it on yourself. There are two screws holding it down and the tube is attached by a clamp. Hope this helps.
  • tfznytfzny Member Posts: 1
    hi everybody. I work at AAMCO and I actually came across this website because a friend of mine is looking into buying a new mercury mariner and asked me to see what I could dig up about it-- if anyone has any info, please let me know

    anyway...about that od light -- you need to get that thing into a tranny shop FAST!!! escapenut is right, the CD4E really ought to be called the CD$E. We see a LOT of car owners replacing these-- at low mileage, as compared with other domestic transmissions. But, if you go to a shop where they actually repair the transmission onsite, and if you catch the problem as early as possble, you can save yourself some money. Just FYI: the base price including torque converter should be $2621.18 or less (depending on labor rate)... most places will give you this information if you push for it -- ask @ least 3 times. As far as worst case goes... just hope you don't get there. I honestly think it was some kind of joke that ford stuck this transmission into this vehicle... it really does not seem appropriate given the other transmission options they have.
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    Wow thanks for the input... Taking it to see what I can get for trade-in tomorrow... :| Luckily I got it for pretty cheap...
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    Well, traded in for a new Ford Focus. For trade in, they gave us exactly what we bought it for.. ($7000) :D
  • sfaguysfaguy Member Posts: 2
    Did cleaning/changing the IAC work for you ?
  • sfaguysfaguy Member Posts: 2
    Did filing a complaint work for you ?
    Have you tried the IAC replacement, and did it work ?
    I have basically the same problem.

    I have had to change my PCM because of a burned out capacitor. Does anyone know if this is common, and what causes it ?
    The capacitor is the largest or 2 beige w/ a brown stripe surface-mounted capacitors w/ markings 476/10k/125 near the back of the PCM.

    J.D.
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    If you are referring to me, I did not fill out a complaint.. if there is a way, do tell me. I don't have the lemon escape anymore, but I still think Ford should know people are having problems. I didnt have anything fixed, I was just happy how much they gave for trade in, cause it was as much as we originally paid for the Escape in the first place a year ago.
    My problems were more serious... transmission was slowly going out on top of all the other things I mentioned up above.
  • pdc2pdc2 Member Posts: 15
    Just lucky I read this post. I am about to do a flush and refill for transmission on my 02 XLT 4WD and the technician in a Ford dealership quoted the refill to be Mercon V. Thanks very much.

    Is there a need for a flush and refill for the power steering system? The price quoted is Can. $139. I don't remember having this (or the transmission work above) done in all my previous cars.

    Thank you again.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    The Ford technicians at the Ford Dealerships don't jack poop about transmission fluids, special service messages, techincal service bulletins. They could care less, they go to their job everyday just waiting to for the day to end so they can go home. These guys are just like anyone else who has a boring job.

    As far as the power steering system, I have never done this on any car I owned. I am not saying it might not be a bad idea to do it, but it really isn't necessary. The Ford service manual says nothing about flushing the power steering system. It just tells you to make sure the fluid level is where it is suppose to be.

    On a normal car with a good transmission, you are right, all this flushing and refilling is unnecessary, but the Ford Escape CD4E transmission is very problematic and even with extensive maintenance with the flushing and refilling thing, the trans still will likely go before its time. From what I heard, the CD4E is not engineered sturdy enough for the weight and V6 engine of the Escape. Ford used this trans in their smaller 4 cylinder cars and did some minor modifications so it could be used in the Escape. Ford needs to use a better and stronger transmission in future Escapes.
  • pdc2pdc2 Member Posts: 15
    Thank you very much and thanks also to all those who have given so much information on transmission fluid; difference between draining and flushing and quantities, etc.

    I think it best to describe my experience of my visit to the Ford dealership this morning. I brought the Ford work estimate dd Mar. 29 which is -
    headed "Flush Automatic Trans CD4E"
    QTY PART NUMBER PART DESCRIPTION PART PRICE EXT.PRIC
    10 FOCXT-2-LM12 FLUID-TRANSMISSION 4.33 43.30

    (Plus labour $81 and shop supplies $8.51) 89.51
    =132.81

    As the actual bill came to only $119, I asked and was told that they only do draining and refill (about 5 litres)which they claim to be the maintenance service required by Ford. Since 50% of the fluid would be old oil, I protested and the service manager helped me dialed Ford.ca.
    The lady at Ford.ca told me that the ford dealership service staff are the technical experts on maintenance services and if they say "flushing" means draining, Ford.ca backs them 100%.
    The service manager asked me for my proposal and when I said I was prepared to pay the bill but that they should omit "flush" and correct the quantity of 10 to 5 litres (to prevent misunderstanding by other customers) in their estimates, he said that "flush" was in their computer system and difficult to change but that the quantity of 10 was incorrectly entered in my works estimate. He then graciously offerred to wave my payment entirely and also rejected my offer to make a charity donation giving him the donation receipt - he said he wanted his customers happy.
    I post this message because I feel that the works estimate was misleading (indeed, I would never have questioned such maintenance bills had I not been reading this column) and this might alert some other owners.
  • nitelitenitelite Member Posts: 4
    I'm Still waiting but have filed two complaints, I also wrote a letter to Mazda and got Told they don't care. I have had the PCM repaired twice, Pcv hose replaced, new idle air control valve and fuel pump. Car runs but has now power and stalls. Told I need a new engine, refuse to pay 6,000. I've been collecting information and I'm considering going to a media watch group to get this disaster of a car in the news. To file complaints go to nhtsa.dot.gov office of defects Investigation, also auto safety.org, The more complaints the better.
  • scape2scape2 Member Posts: 4,123
    I am an owner of a 2001 Escape XLT v6 4wD that has about 70,000 miles on it. I have towed regularly about 2,500 lbs with this vehicle over these miles.
    I visit this room often to see problems people may be having. I visit other Escape/Tribute/Mariner chat rooms around the net. I am wondering where the data is coming from about the Escape/Tribute transmissions? I called both an AAMCO and A Cotman transmission shop and they both told me they have seen very few Escapes/Tributes. I also called 1 large Ford Dealership and spoke to the service manager and they said the transmissions are rarely a problem. I visit other net chat rooms, and yes there are some transmission issues but not nearly as bad as what this room makes it out to be. I am not trying to be-little anyones problems. I don't have any transmission issues on my Escape and its been worked pretty hard. Granted, I have had my fluid changed at every 25-30K.. It just seems to me that what I read around the net the transmission is actually pretty reliable. I also visited MSN reliabiltiy data and they don't mention any transmission issues.
  • sdalesdale Member Posts: 1
    has any one had their 2003 v-6 motor detonate on them? it had 3108 miles on it and was just over 3 years old.
    I do not know what has happend to the motor yet as this happened on April 7th and by the time the truck was towed to the nearest dealer it was closed. However oil was draing from a large hole in the oil pan. Has any one had this happen to them and any luck getting Ford to cover an engine replacment under and expired warrenty (just under 29 days)?
    thanks
    sdale
  • snavysnavy Member Posts: 1
    I also have an 01 Tribute that died yesterday. My story...about 3 weeks ago, I took it in to the dealer for an oil leak. It was a slow one with only a couple of drops a day and never needing to add any when I checked. I came home with a new oil pan and dip stick and the leak was gone. When I did get home, the engine sounded like a diesel. I drove it only a couple of days thinking maybe the noise was that they didn't tighten everything down or maybe the noise would just go away since I had never had an oil pan replaced. It didn't, so last week, I took the car to dealer again complaining about the noise. The kept it all week running diagnostics and found nothing except that I lost 3 cylinders. They assured me I would be fine driving it. This was on Friday and then yesterday on my way to work, It just died. I had it towed to another dealer and they said the engine locked up. Funny thing, I wasn't having any problems until I took it in for the oil change. Now the dealer that did the work is offering to install a new engine for $2000 less than the dealer that has it now. My thought is maybe the first dealer is wanting the work to cover up a bad oil pan replacement. I am feeling lucky after reading some of these posts because my Tribute made it to 99,600 miles.
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    Many thanks to you, scape2, for your positive information flow! I have a 2005 Escape that I bought a year ago, new. It has about 6K miles on it, and runs great-- no problems. I really appreciate your input on the transmission question.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    I caught the tail end of a news report regarding a safety recall on the Escape without sunroof and curtain bags. I am assuming the same applies to my Tribute. Does anyone have any detailed information as to what needs to be done? I just phoned the dealer, and they have not heard of the recall as of yet.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The stories I've seen just say Escape and Mariner. The interior trim packages could be different on the Tribute. More here:

    Ford Recalling Nearly 150,000 SUVs (Chron.com)

    Steve, Host
  • falvarezfalvarez Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone out there had an issue with the rear hatch and window intermitently not working...ours is a 2001 escape...
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