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Comments
i called the vw dealer in my area(n.e. PA) and they quoted me a price of around $80.
VW requires castrol 5w40 fully synthetic.
i also save my purchase slips to verify my oil and filter change.
i can do this change for $60
I just signed a contract on an '08 Jetta this morning. The dealer tells me $125 for an oil change using synthetic oil. I believe they also wash the car, rotate tires and perform some safety checks too. Still seems awfully expensive to me.
He also said they are recommending a change every 10,000 miles rather than 3,000 or 5,000.
Then, I think just to get on a 10,000 mi interval, the second change is also called for after 5000 additional miles (at 10,000). After that is is 10,000 miles (or 12 mo.).
If you are concerned about the service costs, ask them for the "ala-cart" price to just do what the VW schedule requires each time, rather than saying, for example "do 20,000 mi service). Also if you have other dealers in your area you can check and see if they have better pricing.
I can change oil and filter on my 1.9L TDI in about 20 minutes without spilling a drop. (Oil Filter is a drop-in cartradge!)
My daughters 2.0L Golf takes about 30 minutes under the hood.
My other daugherts 2.0L NewBeetle takes about 40 minutes because EVERYTHING is so tight under the hood so I need to push a bunch of hoses out of the way to get to the oil-filter.
i've got a 1999 Jetta, 2.0L, i do alot of city driving,which i am told is very hard on a car, would it be beneficial for me to switch my oil to synthetic? people have been telling me that if i do that i am forever stuck with synthetic,and if i switch back to conventional, i will destroy the engine *i wouldnt mind having to put syn in it all the time, if its a benefit* also been told that my car will leak like no tomorrow becaue they flow differently, just wondering if it is worth the extra 30+ bucks to have it done each oil change and if any of those risks are common factors when switching or if they happen in rare cases.
also, how long can i go between changes on synthetic compared to the regular dino stuff :-P
any thoughts are appreciated
Is your car leaking oil now? If not then I don't see how the synthetic is going to create any new leakage :confuse: .
My somewhat arbitrary policy, if there are no warranty issues, is to follow OCI of 5000 miles/6 mo. with conventional or 10,000 mi/12 mo. with synthetic. So since the cost ratio is about 2:1 also, there really is no net cost to going with synthetic.
Most engines contain the ground within the signal cable to the coil(s) to prevent nasty problems caused by ground-loops. It may not be a good idea to add any additional grounds to the coil(s) unless you are trained in electronics and understand the phenomen known as a "ground loop".
Perhaps we could help you better if you explained to us WHY you are asking this question.... exactly what are you trying to accomplish?
wow! is that what VW recommends?
You said you have a 1999 with 2.0L engine. You really need to follow the OCI (Oil Change Interval) for YOUR modelYear/engine.
The new 2.5L 5-cylinder engine is DESIGNED for a 10K mile OCI.... your 2.0L is not.
You may visit the VW sebsite to find the reccommended OCI for your specific vehicle.
HINT: It says every 5K miles.
1999 VW Jetta maintenance schedule
also im wanting to go to a screw on oil filter. any tips?
Not sure why you would want to go to an aftermarket screw on oil filter. Not many aftermarket products are specified for 30,000 miles OCI's as the oem filters are.
The thing I like the most is that I can do a complete oilchange from under the hood and not spill a drop of oil. (Using the recommended oil-sucker method)
Specific to the dropin oil-filter...
*)It has MUCH more filtering surface than spinon (more like a mack-truck spinon!)
*)Replacing it is painless... just lift out and slide into 1/2 gallon ziplock baggie. No messy,drippy spinon filter which is hard to reach.
Looking for some guidance on changing the oil in my daughters new 08 Jetta. I've been reading lots of posts and there's been much discussion on changing the oil from the top?
Am I understanding this correctly?
I have been changing my own oil since I was a teenager and in looking at her car, it looks to me like
1- I have to find a darn wrench for this thing?(as i'm sure you all know its on of those deals where you remove the oil filter housing and replace the paper element).
This is similar to my 05 Toyota Avalon, but of course a different wrench.
2- Where can I buy a wrench for this thing?
3- I have to remove the shroud in the bottom front to even GET to the filter?
4- I see nothing in the owners manual that says synthetic is REQUIRED.
Any suggestions are appreciated. Thx
It says oil meeting VW specs is required. Only certain synthetic oils meet this spec.
The tricky part may be locating oil that meets those specs. 8-)
Personally, I use only Pentosin oil in my VW. Pentosynth oils are made in Germany and used in thousands of VWs across Europe.
In fact, Pentosin Oil is what VW engines have in when delivered from the factory.
BTW: I also use pentosin Brake fluid and pentosin antifreeze.
I once tried using Elf oil (Made in France) but found that my engine tended to consume it and needed oil added between oil-chagnes.
There is another oil Total Quartz which actually meets VWs most stringent 505.00 spec.
Here is the explanation about this rename
.
The owners manual only says it has to be reset. Doesn't say how.
It says something to the effect 'if you have your oil changed by a dealer, they reset the reminder. if you have you oil set by a non authorized VW service center, have your VW dealer reset the reminder'
ya... right. I'm gonna pay to take it to the dealer so they can push a button or something.
has anyone does this on an 08 Jetta 2.5.
Thx in advance
BTW - Many independent mechanics use VagCom in their shop because it is as good or BETTER than the factory computer diagnostic tool!
1) Press and HOLD the trip-odometer button "0.0".
2) Turn your key on.
3) Release the trip-odometer button.
4) Push and release the Clock Minute Set Button "min".
More detailed version:
1. Keys out of ignition- press and hold in trip odometer reset button "0.0" on right hand side of display
2. Still holding this button down, insert key into ignition and put to the on position without starting the car.
3. Display will read "service now"
4. let go of the "0.0" button and depress the "m" button on the left hand side of the display. this will re-set the service reminder. There is no confirmation on the display other than the words "service now" will disappear.
You can confirm that the service reminder has been reset, or check how many miles/days remain until service at any time by taking key out of the ignition and holding in the trip reset "0.0" button for between 3 and 5 seconds. The MFD will display miles and hours until next service.
These were posted as reset procedure for Rabbit (can not imagine Jetta would be different) on a VW forum.
I went to www.google.com and typed in VW "service reminder" and got at least 14,300 'hits'. (How could you possibly have gotten NO HITS at all???)
I quickly scanned several of them and the VAGCOM is mentioned so you can reset or TURN OFF the reminder forever.
There are other ways you can turn it off too. (Not sure if they will work)
BTW:
*)Many autoparts stores (Autozone...etc) will reset for free.
*)Folks with VagCom are usually eager to help fellow VW owners.
(just search for the list of VAGCOM owners)
My 06 Jetta 2.5 is at 25k--do I need to take it in for service? The owner's manual doesn't show a scheduled service until 30k. The dealer tells me I need to go in, but why isn't this listed in the maintenance requirements? Can the car really go 10k without an oil change? Is the synthetic oil really that good? I took my old 03 Jetta in every 5k, but I thought that was the requirement...
Also, does it matter that I regular miss the the 3 month window for the oil change (i.e. bring at at 25k or by 6/30/08)? Does the oil get old or something sitting in the engine too long? I travel a lot for work an often take public transport to the office when in town so it sits a lot.
Thanks guys--clearly I'm no mechanic so I appreciate your help. And yes, I did google this and found nothing helpful.
What do you mean by "3 mo. window"? Is your dealer like ours and trying to get you to come in every 3 mo./5000 miles? If I bought into that idiocy, we'd be changing oil at about 2000 miles. You need only follow VW requirements to be sure they will not try to use it against you should there be a warranty issue.
We have another vehicle that is sometimes surplus, so not getting used much and I just try to be sure some one drives it for at least 10-15 miles every couple weeks. This frequency is based on vehicle storage recomendations that are in the manual for that vehicle.
Thanks for your help!
Bummer.... I tried the suggestion. Unfortunately, it did not work
I'm quite surprised, because its very similar to what you have to do on Toyota's(except for pressing the M buton on the clock). But no go.
Thx anyway though.
If anyone has any other suggestions, I'm game.
so is this pricy to maintain or is it just another :lemon:
All too often, I have "sampled" the FRAM filters at wallymart only to find them of poor-quality and construction.
HOWEVER: Ocasionally, I open a FRAM box at wallyMart and find a REAL German-made filter within. (Brand name = MANN)
When I do find MANN filters at WallMart, I purchase several of them.
There is an easy way to reset that service reminder light by yourself:
1) first turn on the ignition, than press the 0.0 button on the right side of the dashboard than turn off the ignition still pressing the 0.0 button
2) release the 0.0 button than pres M button on the left side of the dashboard.
It worked on my '07 rabbit.
And yes u can change oil every 10k because it is a Castrol synthetic plus u have over 6 quarts of it.
I know the cover for the 5-cylinder 2.5L pops-up. Try to "pop" on corner at a time by grasping as close as possible to each knob.
If you feel it is too hard to "pop"... once you have it off, you may apply a thin layer of rubber-safe grease to the knobs which seat into the rubber grommets.
There is also a clamp and 2 screws to remove which holds the the air-intake hoses in place.
Here is a link to photos for the 2.5L engine