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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • scape2scape2 Member Posts: 4,123
    Try a little silicon based lubricant spray. Available at any car parts store. Also, don't forget to give your door hinges, locks, hood hinges a squirt too... :)
  • pdc2pdc2 Member Posts: 15
    Escape XLT 4WD V6 2002 with 50,000KM. There is a low pitched 'whining noise' whenever the steering wheel is turned, left or right. This whining noise is slight and only heard at very low speeds e.g. when parking, turning into the garage (the noise might be there at higher speeds but obscured by engine and road noise). I think I first noticed this noise some weeks/months ago and have been listening for it whenever I remember to; that's how slight the noise is.

    This noise is only heard when the steering wheel itself is being turned; if the steering wheel is held steady, no whining is heard even if the car continues to turn.

    The fluid level at the power steering reservoir is ok. I would appreciate information and advice on this. Thanks.
  • falvarezfalvarez Member Posts: 5
    Thanks...I have actually tried that...it is more of when you press either the key fob or the unlock button in the SUV...you hear all the doors unlock EXCEPT for the rear hatch...
  • hamstermanhamsterman Member Posts: 6
    It is possible that air got into your power steering system. A power steering purge (ie apply vacuum to the power steering resevoir with the car on and turning the wheel from stop to stop for a few minutes) is fast, easy, and cheap. If that doesn't work, changing the fluid from Mercon to Mercon V may help, as there is a TSB on this.

    After that, it gets harder to find and more expensive to fix. Don't put it off, since it isn't going to fix itself, and you don't want to lose your power steering.

    Hamsterman
  • escapenowescapenow Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Ford Escape that I bought the first year it was out. I have had problems off and on since I got it.
    1. The motor in the passenger door for the window went out, so the window wouldn't go up or down.
    2. The back window rattles and when you close the door it sounds like it's going to fall apart.
    3. The motor mount came apart and had to be ordered and replaced.
    4. There is an irritating rattle that comes from the frame of the truck when you come to a stop and hit the brakes (soft or hard brake).
    5. The seat belt was on recall and had to be replaced.
    6. There was a recall to replace/update the computer software in the dashboard of the car.

    I am sure there is more but I became numb with the issues after a while. It's paid for and basically I am just hanging on to it as a secondary vehicle.

    Would I purchase another FORD or recommend it? NO NO NO!!!
  • mikeminsacmikeminsac Member Posts: 1
    There is a Ford TSB for this item that involves two steps:

    1) Remove the boot for the steering column where it goes through the floor, and then spray this area with silicon spray.

    2) Change the steering fluid.

    I would specifically recommend that you NOT use WD-40 on plastic parts, especially anywhere near electrical components. There are a number of those adjacent to the steering wheel, including those for airbags, horn switches, turn signals, headlight switches, shifters, and so on. I cannot emphasize this point enough.

    Also, seat of the pants here, but I'd guess that performing only step 1 will most likely solve your problem. I'm going to try it on our 2002 tonight.

    If you don't have silicon spray, get some. It's great for squeaky doors, sunroof mechanisms, caliper boots, and so on. You should have one anyway.
  • rknopp1rknopp1 Member Posts: 6
    Is it normal that the rear power windows on the 2005 Escape only lower about half way ?

    Is there a way to lower them all the way ?

    Thank you
  • hamstermanhamsterman Member Posts: 6
    You'll be hard pressed to find any vehicle that lets you roll down the rear windows all the way, as there is some safety requirement. Something about kids falling out the window. :P

    Hamsterman
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    So now you have to boost them... ;)
  • galsfly2galsfly2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Escape with 10,000 miles and have never had a problem until Sunday, when the O/D light started flashing and the car just stopped. It would surge forward about every 5 minutes. The dealership tells me they are "rebuilding" the transmission. My question is - shouldn't they replace such a new transmission with a new transmission vs. a "rebuild" or is this the same thing???
  • twinegartwinegar Member Posts: 1
    When the ignition is off the horn works normal. When the vehicle is running and I press the horn button on the steering wheel, the horn sounds continuously until I turn off the vehicle and then back on.

    It acts like the horn button is sticking but it doesn't do it when the vehicle is off...Any ideas?
  • jela10jela10 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a pre-owned 2003 Ford Escape 5 weeks ago
    and I had to replace the Hub-bearing already, 2 days before I replace the bearing the ABS light came on and hasn't went off since. As of 4/26/06 my airbag light goes on and off and mt battery light came on today. I only paid $173.00 to Sears Automotive to get it fix but it seems that they are connected to my problems. After 2weeks of having my truck I decided to get a oil change an a alignment, thats when my airbag light came on and 4 days later the ABS light came on. I should have followed my first mine and gotten another Saturn. I own a 13 year old Saturn wagon that never gave me problems, except for regular maintenance.
  • jgeislerjgeisler Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 02 Escape, I'm about to put a fuel pump in it. What fixed yours?
  • bri66bri66 Member Posts: 220
    Has anyone had problems with their sunroof? I noticed last year I had to press the button a few times before it would open or close, but this morning when I tried to open it made a loud snapping noise like something broke, and when I closed it, it didn't close squarely. The passenger side stayed a half inch lower. I believe Ford will need to fix this one unless someone has any idea to help me. I have a 2001 XLT. Thanks. :sick:
  • pdc2pdc2 Member Posts: 15
    Thanks for the advice. I tried to purge air from the power steering system by turning the steering wheel left until it reached the stop, allowing the car to coast 2 full circles, and then to the right and allowing it another 2 full circles. Repeating the same for some 4 mintues.

    Then tried the same alternate purging turning the steering wheel (whilst allowing the car to move forward on its own as I don't want to aggravate the steering mechanism), pausing for about 10 seconds at the stops. This for about 2 minutes.

    Unfortunate for me, the slight "wisssshing" sound is still audible. The other method of changing steering power pump fluid is too technical for me.

    I think I'll bring the car to the dealership for a check up as the thought of stranded on the highway is too much. But thanks all the same.
  • chuck1chchuck1ch Member Posts: 15
    I had a 2001 Tribute that had the same problem.

    You cannot just get the switch. You would have to buy the whole enclosure, lights and swithch.

    I decided to clean the switch by extracting it from the enclosure and spraying some contact cleaner into it.

    Worked fine.
  • dan101dan101 Member Posts: 6
    If the engine seems to run if you keep your foot on the gas but stalls when you remove it. Buy a Haynes repair book and it will walk you through step by step of how to fix it. What i found was build up in the throttle body
  • dan101dan101 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 v6 escape when backing up it seems to have either a vibration or something dragging it down almost like the emergency brake is on. I doesn't do it all the time. But mostly in the morning
  • bri66bri66 Member Posts: 220
    Unfortunately it's no longer just the switch that's messed up. I guess I should call Ford and schedule an appointment. Thank you for your input.
  • pgrooverpgroover Member Posts: 4
    The emission light for my daughter's 2001 Escape (XLS) just came on a couple of days ago. Any idea what could cause this, or how to take care of it?

    thx
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    I would think that getting the code(s) read would be step number one. Most any Autozone store, if they are in your area, could tell you what the codes are and what they may mean. If they can't pin it down for you, you may need to go somewhere that has a more sophisticated code reader. That could mean paying an independent garage or a dealer to look into it.
    Sometimes a loose gas cap will set off that persistent light, and often the only needed action is to secure or replace the cap, and then fully disconnect the battery terminals. After the car sits for some 30 minutes, reconnect the battery terminals. This may be the end of the problem for you. If it comes back, go to a garage or dealer as first stated above. :shades:
  • pgrooverpgroover Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, I'll take it over to Autozone and see what luck I can have.
  • seiserseiser Member Posts: 5
    2005 escape with weak ac. The ac is not cold when at idle. It only blows cold air when driving. Anyone else with a similar situation?
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    That may not be a very unusual situation. I have certainly noted the same thing in more than one make of vehicle. I "guess" that the air volume moving through the condenser radiator is dramatically increased by the car moving through the air. The result is a very notable increase in heat exchange out under the hood. :cry:
  • tsikoratsikora Member Posts: 1
    I have a '03 tribute with 65k on it and it has a squeak sounds coming from the front of the car when turing or driving over rough surface. The best part is that it is weather related, only squeaks on colder days and during winter it is the worst :confuse:

    What else I can say is that it must be something that needs to be lubricated because it won't make any sounds during wet conditions or as it comes out of a car wash.. well till it get dry.... anyone have a simillar problem? any solutions?
  • wtd44wtd44 Member Posts: 1,208
    You might get your chassis/suspension bushings checked out. Some of them may be causing the squeaks, and changing them may quiet things down.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    I, too, get suspension creaks and graunches, and they are in the rear. I have noticed they seem to be worse in dry conditions, with lower humidity. I have sprayed lubricants all over, yet they are still present on certain days. I guess what I need to do is get the vehicle on a lift and apply with the loads off the joints.
    As for my body flex creaks, I have confirmed that they are a result of the doors flexing in the openings, rubbing along the weather stripping. They seem to be the worst during temperature transitions. This past week the noises were back in full force. On the way home to lunch Friday, it was as bad as it ever was. Once home, I rubbed all the weather stripping with AmorAll wipes. On the way back to work, a half hour later, the creaks were essentially gone. Last night, I did as some have suggested, and applied vaseline to all the rubber again. This morning the vehicle was silent. So what we have here is a less-than-stout body structure. The vehicle itself feels stiff, nothing like the loose quivering feeling you get in some large body-on-frame SUVs. But there obviously is flexing going on. But if this 'cures' the noises that drive me nuts, then I'll take this action now and then.
  • douglas555douglas555 Member Posts: 2
    My Ford Escape passenger side headlight has consensation. Someone told me to drill a hole in the back of the headlight and it would dry it up. Anyone know if this is true? Will it affect the headlight? Any help appreciated.
  • nieds13nieds13 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Ford Escape. Over the summer, whenever it would be sitting outside all day and I tried to start it, it would start then die, but once I got it going it was ok. Then it would take a couple of times to get it started, but again once I got going, it was ok. Eventually, I'd get it going, but then it would die on me whenever I would stop or release gas. As long as I kept my foot on gas it would be ok. It doesn't do it when it's been in my garage all night, or even if I was out for a couple of hours, it only seemed to happen after it had been outside for 10 hours while I was at work. And it didn't matter what temperature it was. Any idea where I should start looking for problem. It wasn't the battery. Thank
  • bemeastbemeast Member Posts: 1
    Hey, I was searching this forum and found your post. I am having the same problems (01 Tribute 98K cylinder 2). I didn't notice the burnt spark plug smell though. Have you found a solution yet. If so let me know. Thanks.
  • dan101dan101 Member Posts: 6
    It is the throddle body. My 2001 did the same thing I pulled it out and cleaned all the gunk out of it and it runs fine. Try a Haynes manual it describes step by step how to remove and clean it
  • cscott2cscott2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Escape and experienced the same problem when the car was about 8 months old. I turned the key in the ignition, but nothing happened. I called my Ford dealership. The service manager came out and tried to start it. Nothing. He then clicked and unclicked the key fob which I believe cleared or reset the anti theft device. The car started right up. It happened a few more times since then. Lately, it's been much more common. I'm going to call the dealer. Has Ford looked at this for you?
  • kmattinglykmattingly Member Posts: 1
    Please Help! I have a 2002 Ford Escape and have been having very strange issues for about the past 2 months. It will drive fine, then I will start it, put it in reverse, back out then shift to drive and it dies! I can reverse all day long but the minute i shift into drive, it will die. I can get it to go by hitting the gas while shifting (tires squeal) but if i slow down, it will die again. It starts fine, reverses fine, its Drive that is the problem. Then, when I get it to go, it seems to be slipping in and out of gear. I will be going and the RPMs are going crazy, car is stalling, then going, then stalling...then, it will run fine. This problem is so hit and miss but Im scared to death it is the transmission! Can anyone relate or help me out?

    I appreciate it!!!
    Kelly
  • soggsogg Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Maxda Tribute LX Automatic. It starts fine and runs fine in any gear EXCEPT reverse. If you go from park to reverse it will stall. If you go from park to any other gear it's fine. It doesn't do it all the time either. The garage has had it all day and it hasn't stalled any! Anyone have any suggestions? PLEASE.
  • tnywndytnywndy Member Posts: 1
    I was recently having a similar problem with my 2002 Escape. I actually took it in yesterday to the Ford dealer (big mistake) and dropped a few hundred dollars to get it fixed. It was the tie rod ends (basically, they connect your tires to the suspension and turn the tires when you turn the wheel). Before I got it fixed, I noticed that turning the wheel a certain direction caused a sort-of "rubbing feel," so if you feel this, it's likely the same problem. And you're probably right--it needs lubrication, but thing is, the bushings (which is probably the part that is dried out and making it only noticable when dry) can't be lubricated...the whole tie rod (which is covered in rubber) has to be replaced. According to my service advisor, most cars no longer have parts that can just be maintained by lubricating them....
    Sorry for the bad news--it definately was a shock to me--and frankly made me feel even worse about buying this car, as it's not very old and I lost track a long time ago how many times I have taken it in.
  • finznfunfinznfun Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new 2006 Tribute and can not find a brush guard / grill guard anyplace? Anyone know where I can find one? :shades: Thanks! Jason
  • kiddynomitekiddynomite Member Posts: 4
    Dont waste your time with mazda like i did, contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration www.nhtsa.dot.gov and file a complaint on your mazda defects. I have a 2002 mazda tribute, and this is the second time i am having to replace the rotors, the first rotors and brake pads were replaced at 17,000 miles, now 10,000 miles later with 27,000 miles here we go again, warped rotors. mazda like most manufactures will deny, and not take any responsibilities to fix your vehicle, unless you file a complaint to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration compiles the complaints, and are the ones to force the manufacture to issues recalls and remedy known problems the dealer keeps denying they are aware of. Besides the rotors this has been the most unreliable vehicle, i wasted my money on. This is the last mazda i will ever purchase. Buyer beware, check the website i posted and you can view all the complaints, issues and recalls affected with your vehicle.
  • kiddynomitekiddynomite Member Posts: 4
    Dont waste your time with mazda like i did, contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration www.nhtsa.dot.gov and file a complaint on your mazda defects. I have a 2002 mazda tribute, and this is the second time i am having to replace the rotors, the first rotors and brake pads were replaced at 17,000 miles, now 10,000 miles later with 27,000 miles here we go again, warped rotors. mazda like most manufactures will deny, and not take any responsibilities to fix your vehicle, unless you file a complaint to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration compiles the complaints, and are the ones to force the manufacture to issues recalls and remedy known problems the dealer keeps denying they are aware of. Besides the rotors this has been the most unreliable vehicle, i wasted my money on. This is the last mazda i will ever purchase. Buyer beware, check the website i posted and you can view all the complaints, issues and recalls affected with your vehicle.
  • simeronsimeron Member Posts: 1
    My driver side turn signal started blinking fast. Naturally I replace the rear turn signal and it worked fine for about a week or two. It started happening again. I replace the same bulb, but no blinker in the driver side rear. I swapped bulb sockets from each side for the front and back, still no blinker. I checked the voltage, and am getting 5-7 volts on the back blinker. Anyone have any idea what could be going wrong? Thanks.
  • mshelly05mshelly05 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Escape and have been having problems recently when I turn the ignition key to start it up and it shutting back off. I have to keep my foot on the gas and let it idle for a few minutes before it will stay running. Yesterday, my husband changed the fuel filter and I took it to a mechanic and he put it on the scope but no problems showed up. Any ideas or solutions? Thanks!
  • dan101dan101 Member Posts: 6
    It is in the throddle body! There is build up causing the throddle not to function properly. I had this on our escape and pulled it and cleaned the assembly. No problems since. If you can find a Haynes manual it explains it step by step with pictures.
  • alexjoealexjoe Member Posts: 1
    Hoping someone out there might have experienced the same thing and found a solution. I have a 2006 Limited Escape. Bought in Mar 06...has about 2000 mi on it now. There's a knocking sound every so often that seems like it's coming from the right, front part of the vehicle (passenger side). My best guess is somewhere around the front right wheel area...maybe a little left of that. It seems to happen when the vehicle dips because of a bump. Does not happen all the time...and I can not reproduce any exact conditions to make it make the sound. I did take it back to the dealer...they had it a few days...they did hear it once...they did a lot of checks (so they said)....they did find a couple of structual bolts loose...they tightened....and said they did not hear the sound again. I did not either for a few days but it'd back again. To try and better describe...it sounds as thought something is out of alignment and then pops back in...or stressed and pops back in. Can not tell by the sound if it's metallic, plastic, etc. Since Ford already looked at it and the only thing they found was loose bolts that were tightened...anyone got any ideas?
  • shregashrega Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Escape, 54,000 miles (so 18,000 past the warranty) automatic transmission, bought new 2.5 years ago. I was out of town visiting a friend and noticed the O/D light flashing and then the engine light came on. I took it to a friend of my friend who could pull the diagnostic code, and it came up as P1744, which IS the transmission - something wrong with the torque converter, or possibly an incorrect torque converter clutch solenoid (see http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1i/bl128i.htm?terms=se). Drove it about 5 more miles, and tried to park it, then couldn't get it in reverse - tried again, and it worked, but then couldn't get it in drive. Did finally, and drove it to a mechanic, but the RPMs went crazy, wouldn't change gears, stalling, etc. - this all progressed within the space of a few hours - not over time. To make it short, I Was told the tranmission would have to be replaced. I had it towed to a Ford mechanic, since I was out of town, and they agreed. I had to rent a car to get back home, and then had to drive 5 hours back to pick up my car that weekend and to return the rental car. $3,200 later, after futile attempts for help from Ford customer service, I'll never buy another Ford - they're too expensive to own.

    SG
  • shregashrega Member Posts: 2
    No idea what a rebuild vs. a new transmission is, but it should have the same warranty - i.e., your warranty should start over on the transmission from this point - 3 yrs or 36K miles. Be glad it happened when it did - mine was past the warranty. My advice is to keep it until just before that warranty runs out and then sell it. You don't have a reliable car. See my msg #3379.
  • nitelitenitelite Member Posts: 4
    I wanted to add to this, We found out why our tribute had died and possibly the reason for the stalling for the past three years. We took it to a mechanic we trust, our fuel pump had died. He said this was very strange they don't just die also our battery had died. something had drained the battery. Had both replaced, it no longer stalls but it run like crap. The engine is shot. I have asked mechanics and other service advisors if a bad fuel pump could cause the stalling and damage the engine they have all said yes. Can anyone tell me if they're all right. :mad:
  • studannystudanny Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2002 Ford Escape 70,000 miles had the transmission flushed twice. After the second flush drove it 33 miles and the transmission quit. Took it to the ford dealer and they said the transmission pump failed and fryed the transmission. They want $3500.00 dollors to fix. I have owned fords all my life and have never had a transmission problem. I am fixing to call a ford rep tomorrow and see what they say. This SUV has been driven very easy and has always been been serviced on time. I have had no other problems with it. HOW MANY MORE ESCAPES has this happen?
  • bri66bri66 Member Posts: 220
    I have a 2001 that needed a complete rebuild last year also. It happened under the extended 100,000 plan so it only cost me $50, however I signed the dealers copy after repair was completed and I don't remember the exact $ amount they were charging Ford, but it was a few thousand.
    In a previous post someone mentioned they were getting a noise from their front end, if it's a clicking noise every time they hit a bump it is probably from the two tiny mini shock absorbers in the front end. I don't recall the name of these tiny shock absorbers, but their not too much to replace money wise. I have replaced mine twice. Someone on an earlier post said they sprayed theirs with cooking oil and the noise went away. These shocks I believe are gas filled so I wouldn't recommend Pam cooking oil, front ends are big money and these shocks are little money. If you would like I can get the exact names tomorrow for the part. ;)
  • shezabuteshezabute Member Posts: 2
    I am so glad i came across this forum! I've been having the exact same problems (car won't start, rough idling, decrease in gas mileage, ck engine light on b/c of egr). I cleaned the IAC valve and so far so good :) I took a picture of the valve for future reference">, not sure how to post it though?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Click the "Help" link over on the left of this page to see instructions for posting pictures. You can also set up your own page in our new Carspace for pictures.

    tidester, host
  • seiserseiser Member Posts: 5
    I previously described a weak ac issue with my 05 escape, turns out the compressor is bad and being replaced by the dealer today.
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