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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)



  • Afternoon - many many of the Jeep water pumps have an impellor ( moves the coolant) that is made a abs plastic. This, when the impellor starts to fail it does not hold its shape and move the coolant.
    please look at all the other suggestions - coolant hoses that collaspe when hot - old thermostat etc.

    but most jeep motors that i get that have blown head gaskets have BAD water pumps.
  • i have a jeep wrangler 1993.runs great but just recently after extend drive time it will stumble and stall after you let it sit for a while it starts right up and runs
  • When I turn the ignition to crank the 4.0L it spins but will not attempt to crank for up to 7-8 attempts. It will finally crank and when it does it runs fine, but I'm hesitant to venture out very far. You can kill it and it will restart after 2-3 attempts, if the restart is within minutes of killing it. When I turn the ignition on I get all of the check lights and instrument activity like normal. Does this sound like a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
  • It sounds like it's your selenoid that sits on your starter. The selenoid is what causes your starter to engage the flywheel when you turn the key.
  • No, the starter is engaging and the engine is turning over but it won't crank for 7-8 attempts. It is like it is lacking fire or fuel. Like I stated the check engine light comes on when I turn on the ignition so I don't suspect the computer as the problem. The puzzling thing about this is when it finally cranks it runs just fine. I am a little uneasy to venture to far for fear that it may not crank on the 7th or 8th try one day. It has always cranked quickly and easily. Does this even resemble a fuel pump or fuel filter problem. Please advise.
  • gouchegouche Posts: 2
    I have a 1988 Yj getting ready to install a weber carb. with fuel regulator, then a new distributer, had a friend with same set-up but lost his number,I think if someone can send me some pictures of same set-up, I would be most
  • gouchegouche Posts: 2
    need pics of a weber carb. actually installed for view, so I can attempt to install,anybody with any pictures please,like a birds eye view, 360 degrees or other,thanks for e-mail
  • I have an 83 CJ-7 that has a T-5 Warner trans. I am attempting to locate the clutch master cylinder that I have been told should be on the vehicle. I can't find it! Can anyone give me a clue where to look? The manual (Chilton) says it is under the hood, but I don't see anything that looks even vaguely like the picture of the thing.


  • dustie1dustie1 Posts: 17
    Is there any way to bypass the automatic kill switch, I would like to start my Jeep and keep it running. My Jeep is an automatic is the kill switch internal or external this is also 4 cyl as well. We need to bypass the auto kill switch so we can read the codes to see what's wrong with it. Any help would be great.
  • I have an 86 CJ7. The windshield wipers park rather high on the windshield instead of near the bottom. Is there an adjustment either on the motor or the wiper linkage that can be adjusted so they park near the bottom of the windshield?

    Thanks for all your help in the past, you're all great people!

  • My father is deploying to Sudan, Africa in a couple weeks. He gave me his 79' CJ-7 to start restoring while he's away. This is a big deal for me. He wants me to take out the 3spd and put in a 727 wagoneer automatic to start. Any tips on how to start this? :blush: I like to think i know enough about vehicles to get this job done but i think there needs to be some tranny mount conversions. Right? :confuse:
  • I need help. My grandson has a 73 CJ-7 that he has lost the ignition key to. Is there any way to remove the old ignition and replace it without the old key? Everything I have read (even the manual) and been told says that I need the key to replace the ignition in the column.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Everything I have read (even the manual).............

    LOL...always the very last resort, RTFM! :)

    Although the manual didn't help in this case, and I don't have specific knowledge of the CJ7 ignition switch, is it not possible to remove the switch from the column and take it to a locksmith to have a key cut.
    It's something that can be easily done, although as it takes longer than just copying an existing key you can expect to pay a little more.

    Get a couple of spares cut at the same time as well. ;)
  • Mac24,

    In response to your post, I did read the manual. It is where I discovered (and at online help sites like this one) that one needs the key to turn it to the "on" position to be able to remove the cylinder from the column. I am trying to find another way that may include disassembling the column. I did so to the point where I was unable to go any farther since the ignition cylinder seems to be preventing the column sleeve on the Jeep from coming off to expose the "guts." I might add that I have an 86 that seems to be almost identical to the 77, and it too requires the key to remove the ignition cylinder.

    Thanks for your help.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    In response to your post, I did read the manual.

    No offence intended Dave; it was the way you wrote it that made me smile.

    Is it possible to remove the complete column? If so then take that to the locksmith. If not then have the locksmith come to you.

    That's not as fanciful as it seems as locksmiths regularly make housecalls as a normal part of their business.
  • Mac24,

    No problem. The main issue is that my teenage grandson feels badly enough about losing the only key and now he has to spend most of his Christmas money (that he was saving for auto insurance, etc.) for a locksmith to come and make a new key. I was just hoping there was a less expensive way.

  • Thanks to all who responded to my request for help with my question about removing the column cylinder without the key. I figured it out. By removing the steering wheel, compressed plate, and turn signal switch, you can put a small screwdriver in the slot over the key cylinder, press the small lever, and the cylinder comes right out. I was able to get a new cylinder with keys for $40 at the local parts store and all is well with the world now.

  • I have a '93 Wrangler with the 4.0 engine, headers, KN intake. My problem is that when the engine is approaching operating temperature after start-up (not immediately after) I get a decrease in idle speed almost to stalling then it pops back up to proper idle. This occurs occasionally, but is getting more frequent especially when it's cold. After it reaches operating temp, it seems to run normally. I have replaced: MAP sensor, MAT sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor (it does not have a knock sensor that I can find). Any suggestions?
  • Has anyone heard of this? I recently replaced the turn signal switch inside the steering column on my 86 Jeep CJ7. I bought the Jeep last year from a fella who had replaced the stock steering wheel with an aftermarket one and the horn did not work. After I changed the signal switch, the horn works when I push in on the steering column! Very strange.

    I have a suspicion that when I push down on the steering wheel, it is pushing the spring loaded retaining disk down to contact the horn button in the column, but I can't recreate the honking effect when the column is torn down. It may be a grounding issue at that point.

    Any ideas why it works that way and not by pushing down on the horn button?

    Dave :confuse: :confuse:
  • I have an 86 CJ7 that I bought last summer. The previous owner(s) had removed the OEM steering wheel and replaced it with a Grant. They had also removed the turn signal cancelling cam and button that activates the horn on the signal switch. As the switch was cracked, I replaced it with a new one and ordered a new canceling cam. When I reassembled the entire column according to my Chilton manual, the retaining plate that is held down by a retaining clip, pushes the canceling cam so far down onto the horn button on the signal switch that it activates the horn all the time. I fiddled with it for over an hour before I gave up and removed the canceling cam. Now, the horn works by pushing down on the steering wheel, but that is not what it was designed to do. Anyone out there with an idea on why the retaining plate pushes the cam down so far onto the spring loaded steering column shaft that it activates the horn? I am at my wits end.

    Thanks for all your help,

  • Pretty new to jeeps but I noticed play in my lower column shaft under the hood. Got the lower bearing that is bad but not sure how to change it. Anybody know about this? :confuse:
  • I have an 86 CJ7 that has the old wind wings. The problem is that when I bought it, the driver's wind wing was broken at the top pivot point, so every time I open the wing, it flops out and catches the wind. Although it won't fall out, I am hesitant to use it that way. I checked my Chilton manual and it doesn't address the wind wings at all. I believe the top pivot is attached to the window frame and appears to be broken just where it extends down into the wing to create the pivot. Does anyone have any experience fixing this problem? Is the pivot post welded to the door frame or can it be removed and replaced?

    Thanks for any suggestions or advice.

  • the window sould not come out. it is a replaceable unit it is one peice and its not bad to install.check 4wd they haveit all.good luck,frank.
  • fkelly,

    Are you saying that the windwing is one piece? It appears that the shaft that allows the top of the wing to pivot is broken off from the frame. Is the post (pivot point) originally attached to the wing or the frame?

    I only ask because it appears that the top of the wing has a hole where the post would fit but is missing. It is difficult to tell (because of the rubber molding around the frame) if the pivot post was originally coming out of the frame or the wing.

  • I am looking for an air control valve so I can pass emissions. The factory doesnt make them any more. The vakve is half plastic. Thething just fell apart on me.
  • nickstnickst Posts: 3
    I put my 95 wrangler on the lift, and am trying to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor... But the dam thing WON'T COME OUT...
    Tried oil, heating it with a torch, prying it, pulling it and banging it with a hammer... not in that order.

    Has anyone had similar problems removing their sensor?

    Any advice is much appreciated. thanks.

    Also, here is a picture of the existing sensor;

    Coincedentally, the new sensor I bought which I was told would work in my jeep model looks like;

    Don't know if the difference means it won't work for sure... But I'm not even to that point yet.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited March 2010
    There are several air control valves in the emissions system, are either of these what you need?

    YJ Air Control Valves
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    ......the dam thing WON'T COME OUT...

    I've never done one on a YJ, but assuming it's the same as the later models (the engines are similar) the difference between the sensors you have may be due to there being different sensors for the 4.0 auto and manual, and the 2.5.
    Unfortunately those links don't work for me.

    I'm assuming you have the 4.0 auto as the CPS on that one is located in a hole in the bellhousing, whereas the others are mounted externally, secured with two bolts and easily removed.
    The answer to getting it out is not to worry about destroying the old sensor. Remove it in pieces if necessary. Drill it, grind it, use a Dremel for delicate cutting, even use a chisel if necessary. Also, it will help to have someone hold a shop-vac to it as you work to stop any debris dropping into the bellhousing.

    Good luck.
  • nickstnickst Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply, but does this mean you have to drop the transmission or something to do all that kind of work?

    Theres very little room to get at and work around the sensor.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It depends on what tools you have available to you. A right angle drill would be a great help.
    However, it may well be necessary to either drop the transmission, or possibly move it back a few inches to gain access to the CPS from inside the bellhousing.
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