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Comments
This noise is only heard when the steering wheel itself is being turned; if the steering wheel is held steady, no whining is heard even if the car continues to turn.
The fluid level at the power steering reservoir is ok. I would appreciate information and advice on this. Thanks.
After that, it gets harder to find and more expensive to fix. Don't put it off, since it isn't going to fix itself, and you don't want to lose your power steering.
Hamsterman
1. The motor in the passenger door for the window went out, so the window wouldn't go up or down.
2. The back window rattles and when you close the door it sounds like it's going to fall apart.
3. The motor mount came apart and had to be ordered and replaced.
4. There is an irritating rattle that comes from the frame of the truck when you come to a stop and hit the brakes (soft or hard brake).
5. The seat belt was on recall and had to be replaced.
6. There was a recall to replace/update the computer software in the dashboard of the car.
I am sure there is more but I became numb with the issues after a while. It's paid for and basically I am just hanging on to it as a secondary vehicle.
Would I purchase another FORD or recommend it? NO NO NO!!!
1) Remove the boot for the steering column where it goes through the floor, and then spray this area with silicon spray.
2) Change the steering fluid.
I would specifically recommend that you NOT use WD-40 on plastic parts, especially anywhere near electrical components. There are a number of those adjacent to the steering wheel, including those for airbags, horn switches, turn signals, headlight switches, shifters, and so on. I cannot emphasize this point enough.
Also, seat of the pants here, but I'd guess that performing only step 1 will most likely solve your problem. I'm going to try it on our 2002 tonight.
If you don't have silicon spray, get some. It's great for squeaky doors, sunroof mechanisms, caliper boots, and so on. You should have one anyway.
Is there a way to lower them all the way ?
Thank you
Hamsterman
It acts like the horn button is sticking but it doesn't do it when the vehicle is off...Any ideas?
and I had to replace the Hub-bearing already, 2 days before I replace the bearing the ABS light came on and hasn't went off since. As of 4/26/06 my airbag light goes on and off and mt battery light came on today. I only paid $173.00 to Sears Automotive to get it fix but it seems that they are connected to my problems. After 2weeks of having my truck I decided to get a oil change an a alignment, thats when my airbag light came on and 4 days later the ABS light came on. I should have followed my first mine and gotten another Saturn. I own a 13 year old Saturn wagon that never gave me problems, except for regular maintenance.
Then tried the same alternate purging turning the steering wheel (whilst allowing the car to move forward on its own as I don't want to aggravate the steering mechanism), pausing for about 10 seconds at the stops. This for about 2 minutes.
Unfortunate for me, the slight "wisssshing" sound is still audible. The other method of changing steering power pump fluid is too technical for me.
I think I'll bring the car to the dealership for a check up as the thought of stranded on the highway is too much. But thanks all the same.
You cannot just get the switch. You would have to buy the whole enclosure, lights and swithch.
I decided to clean the switch by extracting it from the enclosure and spraying some contact cleaner into it.
Worked fine.
thx
Sometimes a loose gas cap will set off that persistent light, and often the only needed action is to secure or replace the cap, and then fully disconnect the battery terminals. After the car sits for some 30 minutes, reconnect the battery terminals. This may be the end of the problem for you. If it comes back, go to a garage or dealer as first stated above. :shades:
What else I can say is that it must be something that needs to be lubricated because it won't make any sounds during wet conditions or as it comes out of a car wash.. well till it get dry.... anyone have a simillar problem? any solutions?
As for my body flex creaks, I have confirmed that they are a result of the doors flexing in the openings, rubbing along the weather stripping. They seem to be the worst during temperature transitions. This past week the noises were back in full force. On the way home to lunch Friday, it was as bad as it ever was. Once home, I rubbed all the weather stripping with AmorAll wipes. On the way back to work, a half hour later, the creaks were essentially gone. Last night, I did as some have suggested, and applied vaseline to all the rubber again. This morning the vehicle was silent. So what we have here is a less-than-stout body structure. The vehicle itself feels stiff, nothing like the loose quivering feeling you get in some large body-on-frame SUVs. But there obviously is flexing going on. But if this 'cures' the noises that drive me nuts, then I'll take this action now and then.
I appreciate it!!!
Kelly
Sorry for the bad news--it definately was a shock to me--and frankly made me feel even worse about buying this car, as it's not very old and I lost track a long time ago how many times I have taken it in.
SG
In a previous post someone mentioned they were getting a noise from their front end, if it's a clicking noise every time they hit a bump it is probably from the two tiny mini shock absorbers in the front end. I don't recall the name of these tiny shock absorbers, but their not too much to replace money wise. I have replaced mine twice. Someone on an earlier post said they sprayed theirs with cooking oil and the noise went away. These shocks I believe are gas filled so I wouldn't recommend Pam cooking oil, front ends are big money and these shocks are little money. If you would like I can get the exact names tomorrow for the part.
tidester, host