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Ford Freestar Electrical Problems
I have an 04 Monterey minivan an I am experiencing serious electrical problems. The battery light comes on and stays on for about 30 seconds then goes off. After this, the dash lights and radio go off. Most of the time they come back on within a few seconds. Recently I noticed that if I turn the headlights off and then back on, the dash lights and the radio come back on right away. Sometimes when this happens, the display states to "Check braking system" and then goes to "Check traction control." The dealer thought this was related to the aftermarket remote starter I had installed, the starter was in the van for about 18 months before these problems began. I had a new remote starter installed and things were fine for about three months. The exterior lights remain on when this happens and the van runs fine otherwise. Has anyone else experienced any problem like this? Any ideas on what the problem might be? I plan on taking it to a different dealer next week. Thanks
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Another thing I noticed is that the cruise control no longer works either. Does anyone know what I could check there? Is there a fuse controlling that which may need to be replaced?
:confuse:
as you turn the steering wheel (thousands of times), horns, lights, bags, cruises, etc all go through this electrical box of rotating contacts. sound controls too?? it gets wooorrrn out. 125k for me. also all this stuff is plugged into the Friggin 'puter. = disaster dollars! ford knows about this issue, and the motors manuals even have a specific time code for this operation. software at tuffy shows this too....
trying to replace my 93 sable wagon, but having a hell of a time finding the same features. ... tall guy's tilt wheel (no knee bashing), cornering lights, instruments that a blind guy can see, low deck (so the two old arthritic labradors can get in easily), ability to tow my boat, plenty of trip/luggage/tools/stuff/ room and oh yes--- keep the fiance happy too (not so hard to do).
enjoy your F O R D.
Thanks,
Mother of four.
I just bought a used 07' Freestar with less than 30k. (Less than 5 days ago in fact). I have been reading posts like yours and I'm curious to see how your story ended or what caused this? I have 3 young kids in the van now, and will take my oldest back to Florida from Georgia on the 13th...so I'm concerned.
Our problem was quickly identified and remedied....apparently a vaccuum hose came loose, and detached from some area near the fuel pump, causing either too much or too little air (I forget) to circulate with the fuel, which caused the vehicle to stall. They reportedly re-attached the hose and "double-wrapped" it, in hopes it won't happen again. Our van has 17,000 miles on it....clearly it should have been wrapped tighter to begin with. I'd have them check this vaccuum hose and make sure it is secure. It was quite scary. Good luck and safe travels!
water away from computer supposedly and dried out the computer. the third time they said it was a design flaw and said that the computer was still wet from last time.
I put 30,000 miles a year on my car. This car was 3 years old and out of warranty.
this time I gave them the keys. And bought a Toyota. This was a dangerous situation losing power in the middle of the Highway. I'm being sued by Marine Federal for the balance of 15,000.00 owed on Vehicle after auction sold it for $5,000
roughly $4,000 under value. by the way this is a lemon. electric windows don't work sometimes, Door locks pop up and down by themselves or sometimes don't work at all. door ajar lights and chime refuse to go off. Windshield wipers and radio would come on and off without being turned on. and air conditioner compressor fried within second year of ownership. I believe this was all caused by the same thing, Rain and moisture getting into the computer. a design flaw that the dealer said it had after they could not fix it they had the audasity to tell me to take it to a body shop. I wish I had to money to sue the crap out of Ford for ruining my credit and almost putting me out of business. If I were you I would see what kind of Lemon law you have in your state. and by all means when it comes to cars, Stay away from American made. I love America But our cars are crap
I'm having problems with rough/stalling engine while idle. This is not good when you're waiting at a stop light and frustrating when you're in a drive thru. It occasionally pulses when going down the highway threatening to stall. It has done it once I believe while on the highway, but a few times while in motion in town. It sometimes starts back up and other times I've had to let it sit before I could restart it. The other part of it is that when I press on the gas at times there is a sound like a coin rattling in a can coming from the engine. Could I be right that it's the PCM or is it the fuel pump? :confuse:
Other info: the transmission was replaced in Sept 09 and the vacuum hose in Feb
there were previously codes that banks 1 and 2 were running lean, but there is no check engine light coming on now. Any suggestions are appreciated!
So far we have replaced the PCM.. and no the van won't even start..
Ford needs to answer to this...
Bought a Toyota instead. I will never buy a ford again
Since we have had both O2 sensor checked this only leaves the MAF, the ICM, the Fuel pump or that reset switch. Will get the ICM checked by next weekend for sure.
Will keep posted.
1. In the last 2 months I've had my AC "recharged" and the transmission rebuilt. Does anybody know if the guys doing any of that work would have reason to access the PCM? If so, they probably didn't re-seal it properly and I should do it. My electrical problem seems to happen more in wet weather.....or maybe it's coincidence.
I suspect I have a short:
2. Sometimes when trying to start the van it just goes 'click', 'click', 'click', etc. So I lightly jiggle the positive battery cable and it will start. Sometimes it takes 1-2 tries...sometimes it takes 7-9 tries.....but always worked for last few weeks. Had it checked at Autozone.....Starter is good, Alternator is good, battery was bad so I replaced it 2 weeks ago and still have the problem. Went to leave for work today and it won't start. Tried the jiggle wire trick 25-30 times.....no deal.
a. All the connections are tight: Battery terminal, starter, ground.
b. When it does not start, I still have power.....windows work, lights work, bell goes ding, ding with door open.
c. One time the van will go click, click, click, etc. Jiggle cable and maybe it will just go click (once) and then dead. Jiggle cable again and maybe get absolutely nothing--no click, completely dead (but still have lights, bell, etc.) Every time I jiggle the cable I get one of these responses....completely random.
For the last 2 weeks it hasn't been too bad. Like I said, usually only 2 or 3 jiggles and I would find the "sweet spot" and the van would start.
Do these symptoms sound like water in the PCM?
I suspect that a short developed somewhere in the positive cable over time but never reared it's ugly head until somebody got under there and moved stuff around while working on the van. Does this sound to anyone like I'm on the right track?
please read my posting, I believe its # 11, (re the 2005 freestar with 90,000...)
Sounds like the trouble I had could be what you went through... I was lucky enough to spend less than $10 to get it fixed...
Sorry you already spent the money, but hopefully this info will find you... go after Ford... thats ridiculous what they did to you..
Rosco
same with the Air conditioner compressor. after the Pmc shorted out three times within 40 days leaving me stranded. I turned it in to the dealership as a voluntary Repo. I'm in court next week being sued for 15 grand by the bank. because the dealership could not fix the problem.
I tough that the SJB was the problem but I've read that someone has changed it but still have the same problem.
Sorry for my very bad english, I speak french.
:mad:
For your traction control problem, there's a TSB about it... and It said to replace both modules, which I did not do because of the price. The problem is coming when it's raining...
Sorry for my english, I speak French...
TSB:
FORD: 2004-2005 Freestar
MERCURY: 2004-2005 Monterey
ISSUE:
Some 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey vehicles may exhibit a traction control indicator on, ABS indicator on, and/or self ABS activation with a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) C1288.
ACTION:
It may be necessary to replace the ABS module, the HCU, or the brake pressure switch. Refer to the following Service Procedure.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
NOTE: IF THE DTC C1288 IS PRESENT ALONG WITH OTHER DTCS, REPAIR THE OTHER CODES FIRST BEFORE CONTINUING WITH THIS TSB.
First perform normal diagnostics per Workshop Manual Section 206-09.
If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
If the concern is still present, proceed to Step 2.
Ensure that the latest ABS module is installed, engineering part number 5F2Z-2B373-BA or higher.
If the latest ABS module is not installed, proceed to Step 3.
If the latest module is installed, proceed to Step 4.
Install latest level ABS module. When installing, check for water on the circuit board and/or in the aluminum cavity of the hydraulic control unit (HCU). If water is present, replace the HCU as well. Refer to Workshop Manual Section 206-09 for removal and installation procedures. Perform IVD calibration sequence.
If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
If the concern is still present and only the ABS module was replaced, proceed to Step 4.
If the concern is still present and both the ABS and HCU were replaced, proceed to Step 5.
Monitor the brake pressure transducer (MPRETDR) PID using NGS. The KOER PID reading should be fluctuating with no brake pedal applied, this is normal. Lightly apply the brake pedal and the PID reading should be approximately 200. Then increase brake pedal pressure, the reading should increase.
If the brake pressure transducer does not operate as described, replace the HCU assembly. If the concern is corrected, return the vehicle to the customer.
If the brake pressure transducer does operate as described, or if concern is still present after HCU replacement, proceed to Step 5.
Check operation of the brake pressure switch. With key on, measure voltage at ABS module Pin-6. With the brake pedal released, battery voltage should be present. Apply the brake pedal, the voltage reading should be zero (0) volts. If the brake pressure switch does not operate as described, check the circuit for the brake pressure switch at the master cylinder. If no circuit problems are found, replace the brake pressure switch.
NOTE: FOR AN INTERMITTENT C1288, MONITOR (MPRETDR) PID DATA WHEN THE CODE SETS, LOOK FOR INTERFERENCE FROM ELECTRIC MOTORS (SUCH AS WINDSHIELD WIPERS OR POWER SEATS). REPLACE THE ABS MODULE FOR THIS CONDITION.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
5F2Z-2B373-BA ABS Module
5F2Z-2B373-DA HCU
3F2Z-9F924-AB Brake Pressure Switch
WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage
OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
050617A 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace Anti Lock Brake Module (Includes Time To Configure Module, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.0 Hr.
050617B 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace Anti Lock Brake Module And Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module And Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.7 Hrs.
050617C 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Anti Lock Module And HCU (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 2.2 Hrs.
050617D 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Anti Lock Module, HCU, And Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Configure Module, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 2.5 Hrs.
050617E 2004-2005 Freestar/Monterey Replace The Brake Pressure Switch (Includes Time To Perform Diagnosis, Bleed Brake System, Clear Codes) (Do Not Use With 2219D, 2219D6, 2219D11, 12650D) 1.4 Hrs.
see my post under this topic.. it was from April 2009... read it... I bet you the tire pressure monitor being broken is just a coincidence it happened around the same time... my post was about the $4 fix...
Went down to the Dodge dealer and traded it in for a 2010 GC w/ heated leather seats, the works, leasing for $160 per month! Figure we'll be driving a new van for the next couple of years and still at least be as well off as if we'd sunk more $ into the Freestar! And the more I read about the vans, the more convinced I was it was time to ditch it while I could get some $ on trade in.