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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • carbittencarbitten Member Posts: 9
    Has anyone done any significant towing with late model LandCruiser? I am looking at towing a 25 foot travel trailer approximately 5500 pounds.

    I'm also considering a Sequoia but would prefer the amenities of the LC if it will handle the towing.

    Thanks
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Anything the Sequoia can do in regards to towing can be accomplished by the LC as well. The Sequoia has a slight advantage due to its longer wheel base but the LC probably has a better front suspension for the job.
  • hookbahookba Member Posts: 7
    Still looking. Haven't bought my cruiser yet.

    Drove a very nice '95 (my price range). I had never noticed how much room the third seats take up when folded. Do they come out easily? The seller had never taken them out, or tried. It's important in that we might come back from camping requiring lots of geat with third seat out one day, and need to use it for a soccer bus the next.

    thanks in advance
  • seanslx450seanslx450 Member Posts: 11
    The 3rd seats take about 15 to 30 seconds to remove each one. Very simple with a little practice. Possibly the easiest 3rd row seat removal on the planet.
    Regards,
    Sean.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    I'll dissent and say that the 3rd seat removal/install is a PITA. IMO you're better off leaving them in there folded up if you're going to use them at all, and installing a decent roof rack for gear.
  • seanslx450seanslx450 Member Posts: 11
    joe, i respectfully dissagree. Either you have not really figured out how it works, or you are a klutz. I would guess the former. Just practice a few times, understand how the mechanism works, and voila, simple removal/instalation. I am definitly not a rocket surgeon, and find it simple to do.
    Respectfully,
    Sean.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    I'll pass on slamming you back. I've put the seats in and out a few times. Other designs are better.
  • c_williamsc_williams Member Posts: 28
    Has anyone read this TSB for the 2000 TLC? What are the symptoms it describes? I'm hoping it may mention strong vibration at around 1800 and 2300 RPMs.
  • c_williamsc_williams Member Posts: 28
    The third row seats are kind of a pain in the TLC. My wife can't take them in and out (they are pretty heavy). They also require insertion at a very specific angle into the latch mechanism. I've done it 20 or 30 times now on my 2000 and I think it should be easier.
  • gteach26gteach26 Member Posts: 576
    I realize the new Expeditions and Navigators are bigger, but couldn't the landcruiser and the lx-470 be redesigned so that the third row seats simply fold into the floor like in those vehicles?
    Would a fold-down design inhibit the landcruiser's abilities or is it physically impossible to do that with these trucks without a major redesign and making the trucks much bigger?
  • ravickravick Member Posts: 18
    Can someone tell me if the 2000 LC uses platinum or regular plugs. Also, is it equipped with a timing belt or chain?
  • anlevaanleva Member Posts: 2
    I am in the market for a 99/00 Land Cruiser and am looking for you opinion on color combinations. There aren't any available in my area to look at and I need to figure out a color. I will end up doing most of my search/negotiation over the phone until I find something close. From pictures I think I would prefer a River Rock Green or Champagne Pearl exterior. How do these colors look "live"? Any opinions on what interior choice looks the best with these, either ivory or grey?

    It's interesting, when searching on the net many people say that River Rock Green is grey and that Champagne Pearl is silver. Thanks for your inputs!
  • bhuppertbhuppert Member Posts: 9
    In response to Carbitten's message.... I towed a 4000 pound tractor plus a 500 pound log splitter on a large dual axle trailer last week. I have a 98 TLC. I had the transmission in drive, not overdrive, and had the power button depressed. I was driving in upper Michigan so had no "mountains" to climb. I never went over 55 and everything went well.
  • rjcruiserjcruise Member Posts: 2
    In response to the towing question, I tow a 4000 lb. travel trailer with about another 600-700 lbs. in equipment with my LC, it tows great. I met up with another LC owner up at Lake Tahoe who was towing a similar set-up as I was and he also confirmed that his LC towed better than his previous Chevy Tahoe. I cruise at around 60-65 mainly in drive, although on a long straightaway I do allow the transmission to slip into overdrive. I have probably driven about 3K miles while towing and have not had a single problem. A benefit of having such a heavy vehicle is that there is hardly any swaying while driving, although the load distribution bars help in that area also.

    On a different note I had a question. Has anybody experienced with a different tire set-up than what is stock. I just saw a LC with BF Goodrich 285/75 16 K/O's and it looked like a tight fit. Has anybody tried lifting their LC either by aftermarket springs and/or torsion bars? Any information would be much appreciated.
  • drcjjdrcjj Member Posts: 7
    Just purchased a 2001 cruiser (MY 5th LC) and feel the stereo is defective, bass causing the interior to rattle to the point of irritation. I used to work in audio and it sounds like a faulty EQ setting only there is no EQ that's user adjustable. Also it came with a Gold package and wood package both of which look trashy after only 29k miles is any of this under warranty? Other than these glitches it seems as great or greater than my 4 earlier LCs.
  • tucknrolltucknroll Member Posts: 2
    After reading many of these postings I am amazed at how much some of you know. ....
    I need Help.... I can't find any crash test data for pre 1998 Land Cruisers. It's as if no tests have been done.... Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Glad to hear the brake cap worked, and since they seem to fail at some point a new one was probably a good call as Toyota will often redesign things that fail.

    Joeblow - funny story about the Subaru, actually. The Reader's Digest version is that I'd ordered a Sequoia to replace the Montero when my mother asked me to find her a clean used car. I quickly decided on a Subaru AWD wagon for her. Found nothing but high mile vehicles for months. Then on the same DAY I found 2 creampuffs - one green with 23k miles, one quartz/rose with 48k. Gave Mom her choice and bought it for her. When I drove it home, I fell in love with it and spontaneously cancelled the Sequoia and bought the green one for myself. So now I'm a LandCruiser and Subaru owner.
  • seanslx450seanslx450 Member Posts: 11
    rjcruise, I put a 2 1/2" lift with a spring and shock change, and am running 285/75R16 yokohama geolander II tires. The spring and shock change improved handling both on and off road. I am not kidding, you actually get it both ways. Old Man Emu and Offroad Australia both sell suspension packages. For the U.S. the Old Man Emu, (OME), are readily available and come in different spring ratings depending on the application (winch bumper,winch, aux gas tank, towing etc). They are not to difficult to install, but I recommend to get your mechanic to do it. Even though it looks easy it can be a real pain. There is alot of info on the net. Go to acme-outfitters.com, sleeoffroad.com, safari4x4.com, or hit "old man emu" on google.com. The first three have exellent articles so check them out.
    Regards,
    Sean
  • kjack100kjack100 Member Posts: 133
    We leased a '99 LC in the Riverrock and found it a fantastic color. Hid the scratches in the bumpers where the wife backed into brick posts and such. It came with the gray interior which I would highly recommend. Now own a '02 Thunder Cloud LC which shows more scratches, but beautiful.
  • tsoartsoar Member Posts: 2
    At highway speeds (Post: rjcruise 60-65 mph) without overdrive, what is your engine RPM? Aren't you concerned about straining/overheating the engine?
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    I am running the 285 BFG ATs on my '99 with no problems. I do not have a lift at this point. I am planning on sway away front torsion bars and ome rear springs and ome shocks all around.

    The tires ride much better on and off road than the michelins, to me and the lc looks much better with tires that fill up the wheel wells. I am not suggesting 20's, I am just saying Toyota puts small tires on it's SUV's. The Sequioa looks so funny with it's little tires and huge body.

    And yes I off road quite a bit.

    Andrew

    PS - I do not tow anything, the bfg's are 32.9 inches tall and the stock michelins are like 31.7 inches. Just something to consider when towing. The bfg's are also about an inch wider than stock.
  • hicairahicaira Member Posts: 276
    No NHSTA tests have been done and none are planned. The IIHS had no plans to test either back when I asked them (some time ago).

    The 100 series was crash tested in Australia and would have rated excellent except for a fuel leak. The fuel leak was from an auxillary gas tank though that is not available in the US. Also, they crashed one with an I6 (IIRC). At some time the actual (real world statistics, not extrapolated crash test data) injury rate will be availabl at the IIHS sites but I cannot remember is they publish that data of just make it available to actuaries.

    HiC
  • rjcruiserjcruise Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the response on the suspension.

    fj100 - I agree that a bigger tire would give the LC a much nicer look, that is my dilemma. Actually, I do have a set of OME springs sitting in my garage which I purchased when I put on the OME shocks. The reason I did not put them on was because I was concerned that there was not enough adjustment in the front torsion bars, as I was told by a mechanic from 4x4 warehouse. I haven't been able to locate a company that carries torsion bars for my 99 LC but when I do my plan is to lift it and put the beefier tires.

    seanslx450 - question - Did you adjust the front end or leave it at the stock setting with the aftermarket springs? I believe the shocks that I have in the rear are what they called the 'soft' as opposed to a 'firm'. I'm assuming that is to help keep some sort of softness with the stiffer springs.

    tsoar - I am pulling around 3000-3200 rpm at those speeds in 3rd gear. The LC temperature gauge has not budged even when going over some decent sized grades ( 10.5 hour trip to Lake Tahoe from the L.A. area and back). Its has just been in the near past that I have experimented with how strong the overdrive gear felt while towing on a level surface, it actually felt strong.

    One last note. For all of you who went with the bigger tires, did you stick with the original wheels or replace them with aftermarket? I have chrome factory wheels and am wondering how beefier tires would look on them. I do remember seeing a LC that had JAOS wheels with the bigger tires, not sure if I want to pay that type of money though for their wheels.
  • a6wagona6wagon Member Posts: 19
    The website, www.thecarconnection.com has indicated that Toyota will show a new Land Cruiser at the Paris Autoshow at the end of the month. It also says it will have a new 4.0 liter V6 engine as well. Can someone confirm if this vehicle is for the rest of the world only or headed to the United States as well? Here is the link:

    http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=5262&sid=176&n=156
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    No V6 in the USA as Toyota never goes backward :). The 4l V6 is more than likely for the Prado, which is a glorified 4Runner.
  • seanslx450seanslx450 Member Posts: 11
    I did install castor correction bushings. That is the only thing that changes with a suspension upgrade that lifts 3". If you lift your cruiser much higher you run into other problems. I stuck with the original wheels. They take larger tires, no problem. Oh, by the way it is recommended to tow with the overdrive off. This has to do with the transmission temperature. Automatics are suseptible to overheating, and towing with the overdrive off prevents this. The engine has no trouble, just the tranny.
    Regards, Sean.
  • ny10019ny10019 Member Posts: 5
    Just moved to the U.S. from Europe and sadly had to sell my beloved 60 series Turbodiesel, a real torque monster and the best LC I ever owned (my 4th one), since I didn't find a way to register it in the U.S. with reasonable effort.

    Looking to replace it with a reasonably priced 80 series LC, most probably 100'-200'mls and wonder if there are any known problems with the newer 4.5 liter engine in '93-97 models. I believe the old 4.0 liter is running forever ... but at least for the Turbodiesel versions popular in overseas markets it's fair to say that older versions were trouble free with 250'+mls while newer versions turned out to require certain attention.

    Besides engine choice, is there anything I should specifically look for when buying an 80 series ???

    Thanks.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    I tow a 4200 pound boat with a Tundra (same V8) with OD off. At 70 MPH, I'm between 3000 and 3200 RPM. The temp gauge has never moved near the danger zone, even on long trips in VERY hot weather. On the other side, I have seen my AT oil temp light come on when I had a T100 and a 3200 pound boat and had not learned to keep the OD off.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    There weren't many options for the 80 series in the USA. ABS option in '93 and '94 will net you FF rearend and viscous coupling transfer case. Air bags available in '95 and later. Leather interior came in most of the rigs, but there are a few out there without. IMO the option to get is diff lockers.

    There are a few bj60s, hj60s, and bj70s running around the countryside if you're really wanting a diesel rig. Gray market imports from our friends up north.
  • ny10019ny10019 Member Posts: 5
    The car shown is the new (2nd generation) Prado (i.e. in the South Pacific markets), also marketed as Landcruiser 90 series in Europe, hence the reference to the 3.0 liter diesel, a modern turbocharged common rail 4 cylinder already available in the first generation models.

    The body is identical to the upcoming 2003 Lexus GX470 equipped in the US with a V8. Watch out for the 2003 4Runner, it may be the same car and there a new 4.0 liter V6 would make sense. The current 4Runner was almost exclusively sold in North America, while in other markets the first generation Prado / 90 series was offered.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Aside from the usual service records, look at the Birfields to see if they're either dry or runny. They should have a light accumulation of grease. Runny means needs new seals ($600/side), and dry may mean out of lube in there ($$$).

    When you get one, do a search for "80s Cool" and find out more about your truck.

    IdahoDoug
  • cadriencadrien Member Posts: 21
    what is the largest tire I should put on a stock 97 TLC? 105k and neeing some new shoes. Thanks!
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Dunno about should, but the largest tire you can run without a lift and not rub over every bump is 285 75.
  • tucknrolltucknroll Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your response. That info seems to be hard to come by. Do you think that the design of a 97 TLC is a safe design? The new Toyota Trucks are being touted as very safe in crash tests...
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    1995 w/ 118k miles
    took the rig in today because of occasional 2-3 second squeal when AC compressor engages.

    Service desk quoted me $1500 for compressor, clutch assy & filter/ drier.

    I asked to see the tech that conducted the diagnosis, some 18 yr old kid arrived.

    I asked him why compressor and not just clutch- "the clutch is bad and it wobbled which wore out the rod and bearings in the compressor... sometimes when we remove the clip that holds on the clutch assy it breaks in two....". Thinking that I was being fed a cookie cutter answer (or a line) I asked about the brown dust (keep in mind that this dust is limited to the immediate area of the clutch assy and resembles break or clutch dust) his answer was that it was road grime, needless to say I had heard enough from Jr. In fact once the Service Desk guy heard the lines I was being fed, he (Mr Desk) recommended that I leave my rig there until tomorrow so the normal mech (absent today) could check it out.

    Here is my thought and subsequent ????'s

    Replace the clutch and hope the compressor is good.
    ????'s
    1. Will the system need to be evacuated?
    2. Are there special tools or tricks I need to know?
    3. If I get in there what are indicators that the compressor needs to be replaced?

    Thanks in advance
    Ted
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    I have also heard that once the AC system is worked on it is never the same. Is this the case or can I expect reliability? How can I best ensure a good job that will last another 118k?

    Saw another FZJ80 in the same dealer for a $10k new motor- ouch! To think that I thought that syn oil was expensive.
  • tedplanotedplano Member Posts: 31
    The best way to ensure the AC system for another 118k is to get it done by a professional. $1500 for getting the AC fixed on a 95 TLC is not excessive. You can always save a few bucks yourself, but you seem unsure. If you can't afford the $1500 bucks, then you can't afford TLC.
  • wishnhigh1wishnhigh1 Member Posts: 363
    Let the pros do it. Trust me...the kid is probably more capable.
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    Mr Plano- Thank you for your concern of my financial status and well being, what I cannot afford is uninformed decision making, hence my inquiry in this forum. In the future kindly spare me your pearls of financial wisdom that you bravely spew from behind your monitor.

    Wishnhigh1- After further thought I agree with you that when it comes to the AC let the pro's do it. To clarify my position with "the kid" I did not question his ability, just his thought process and articulation in the diagnosis.

    As for those like myself who are here as LC enthusiasts, my suspicions were confirmed. In cases where the clutch assy is faulty for extended periods of time it will damage the compressor but mine will probably be OK (of course there is no telling). Each case is different, but the guaranteed fix or school solution is to replace the whole package.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Let's play nice!

    I don't think tedplano intended to be offensive though it's conceivable one might misinterpret his intent. Let's not jump to hasty conclusions about the intent of others as this medium is less than perfect at conveying ideas and information.

    I recommend a little more tolerance.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    I would get a reconditioned ND compressor instead of buying new as it's 1/3 of the price (or less). Have an independent AC shop do the work, or do it yourself. If you truly want another 118K miles out of it, you'll probably have to go with a new compressor, which is difficult to get.

    The dust near the magnetic clutch is probably dirt that collected in the R134a fluid that leaked out of the compressor.
  • tnhhudsontnhhudson Member Posts: 18
    Thank you for your reply.

    Here is what I have found thus far for the complete job- install compressor & dryer, evac, flush and fill

    Toyota $1500 part warr 1yr/ labor warr 1yr
    Pep Boys $888 part 1yr/ labor 90 day
    Napa $932 part 3yr/ labor 6 month

    I'm leaning towards Napa but not sure if 6 months coverage on labor is long enough to know if the job was done right. IMHO if the freon is going to leak out it would do so prior to this time, what say you?

    I am a bit concerned as I have seen examples of AC systems never truely recovering from initial failure but don't have any historical data on the FZJ.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I also think the comments about financial wherewithal were out of line. This is no place for blind judgements and anyone with the taste and discernment to own an 80 series is good with me.

    Hudson, your description sounds just like the typical belt squeal of an A/C system starting up. The dirt is accumulated around my pulley as well, so perhaps this is normal. Try shooting some belt dressing on your A/C belt and about a minute later starting up the A/C. It may not be this simple, obviously, but I'd hate to see anyone drop money for no reason.

    IdahoDoug
  • wpiland1wpiland1 Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone have information about how to upgrade the data in the 2001 TLC JVC navigation system without paying hundreds of dollars for the upgrade DVD?
  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    Can anyone offer any advice on a problem we are having with our 93 TLC with 146K. There are 2 issues which may or may not be related.

    First the auto locks that we had installed with a remote start 4 years ago have started to wortk erratically. Sometimes it works with the fob, and sometimes it won't. The remote start always works. When the locks stop working, you can still hear a click just as when they are working. They usually start working after a couple of days. We replaced the battery in the fob.

    Second problem is about 3 weeks ago, the car started idling a little rougher than usual. Also on 3 different occasions it revved high before it shifted from first to second gear. This seemed to happen after the car was driven for about 10 mins. The rest of the time it shifts fine. We are wondering if this is some kind of electronic problem, or a computer problem. Hope it's not a transmission problem, but we have gotten 146K miles out of it, and we love the car.

    The dealer has had it for 2 days, and they cannot duplicate the problem.

    If anyone has any advice, please share.

    Thanks,
  • onecold06onecold06 Member Posts: 1
    I am in Illinois and I am looking for a good deal on a 2002 TLC. Anyone got a good place to find one? Most of the dealers are wanting almost $4K over invoice,...is that a good deal? Thanks in advance for any help.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Markets are different all over the country. $4000 over may be a good deal in your area but is about $3000 too high (or more) for other areas. If you're willing to travel, you may find better prices.
  • ace10ace10 Member Posts: 137
    just about any dealer in the DC area will sell $100 to $500 over invoice(as of two days ago). lousy color choices at this point, though. we went with a LX470... much, much, much better buying experience.

    good luck with your search.

    ace
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    but I also wish to ask it here...the 2003 4Runner, Land Cruiser and GX470, from what we have seen, seem to be quite similar, and feel free to correct any misperceptions I may have...what are the pros and cons of each one??? It seems that altho the Land Cruiser has a long term reputation, it seems to be the worst of both worlds...the apparent cost of the Lexus, but without any of the "nice stuff and courtesies" that come with a Lexus (read the Lexus boards and all they talk about is the level of customer service as compared with an "ordinary" Toyota)...any comments would be appreciated...while you're at it, is the Sequoia similar to the above, and where does it fit in...are they not all "full size" SUVs???
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Idling rough/low is normal after the battery is disconnected which may be the case after the dealer is working on the electricals. This is because the memory of the engine computer is purged with no power. Then it runs on defaults for a half hour or so until the memory is rebuilt. If this was not the case, check the rubber tube from the air cleaner to the engine for cracks - common for this age. Completely remove it and then carefully check the bellows areas for cracks by flexing it. They get hard with age and rough handling during air cleaner changes eventually cracks them and admits air downstream of the airflow meter so the engine gets improper signals.

    On the engine "flaring" between 1 and 2, this is again a simple issue. The item above may also impact this a bit. However, there's a cable to the transmission from the throttle which tells the tranny clutches how fast to operate. The cable stretches over time and the tranny "thinks" you're at a low throttle when you're actually at mid throttle and lets the automatic tranny clutches slip more than is appropriate. The cure is simple. Where this cable's housing mounts to the throttle assembly, it is secured with a threaded rod and a pair of lock nuts. Simply loosen the lock nuts and your goal is to move the cable housing AWAY from the sheetmetal plate it mounts through about the thickness of one of the lock bolts. Then resecure it. I'd also have the tranny fluid changed out as slippage can cause a little extra debris in the fluid that's now in there. This is always a good idea anyhow as the hugely overbuilt tranny you have is a bit clunky but durable, however fixing it is astronomically expensive. $50 worth of tranny service is money well spent.

    If it's never been done, cleaning the throttle body/throttle valve will also dramatically smooth out many tranny foibles on this truck. It can be done with a toothbrush and Fuel Injection intake cleaner (Carb Cleaner is too harsh) on the truck or the dealer will be glad to take your $300 to remove and clean it.

    IdahoDoug
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