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Comments
SO to keep fools from revving the hell out of their engine when the car is not in gear, the throttle cuts electronically.
Mark.
Another transmission issue is that there is a "click" sound on the break pedal when the engine is running and the Escape is in park. The click sound does not happen when the Escape is moving or standing in any gear. My dealer told me this is some sort of transmission shifter linkage that may cause the transmission to get stuck in a gear. He also informed me that it would cost around $500 to fix. Has anyone experienced this, had it fail, and found a less expensive repair option?
BTW, I don't drive this vehicle very much, and it only has 38000 miles on it. Seems like low mileage for transmission problems, and I wonder if this vehicle is going to become a money pit.
Any advice would be most appreciated.
regards,
Dave
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
i can guarantee it won't be the battery cable was loose!
As far as the "click" goes your dealer is a fraud!! read your manual... the click is a safety device to shift out of Park. try shifting before the click noise you can't... You need to press the brake first to release the gearshift.
Chris :shades:
Regarding the brake pedal click, I'm well aware that you must step on the brake to engage the transmission. The dealer claims the click is coming from a "brake shift interlock", and if it fails the vehicle will be stuck in park. I've read a few cases where this has happened, but was looking for repair histories and costs.
Dave
Its very frustrating
As An owner of a 2002 Ford escape myself, i am not going to say i havent had some problems, But I do, do General Maintenance on this vehicle. You cant just put gas and change oil in it, It is just like any machine, you have to do general and preventive maintenance on Any vehicle, so Here is what you look at. DO NOT put a new Tranny in it. The dealership is trying to take you for a ride. And If you do replace the Transmission, get it in Writing from the Service Manager, that if this doesnt fix the problem, Than they will at their cost find and fix the problem. Assuming you have the 3.0 liter V6 model, replace just the back 3 coil pack plugs, as well as the spark plugs, also replace the upper and lower intake gaskets and your Pcv valve, and that will usually fix your problems. The reason why to only replace the back 3 coil pack plugs is because they are under the intake and they are exposed to 90% more heat, and them are the first to go. While the upper intake is off, just replace the ringed upper intake gaskets, and then remove the lower intake, and replace gasket as well. Do not let anyone charge you 2 seperate times to replace the coil packs and gaskets, they already have the upper intake off to replace the coil packs so you might as well change the gaskets to. The lower intake gaskets will cause a vacuum leak and your engine will lose power and die at idle. Same as with the coil packs, especially if it has been raining alot(moisture in air) Hope this helps.
Dave :shades:
Dave. :shades:
P.S. Come on now you have to admit that FORD has done a tremendous job on their quality since 2004. If you havent noticed. Go and look at their latest models. Besides, If you dont support Dodge, Chevy and Ford, then the whole automotive industry will be in the Toilet, because then you will have to buy a car from the other GUYS! HAHA!
Fred
Trust me, it could save a life...
Have you had the IAC valve replaced? (Idle Air Control) They get really dirty and have to be replaced periodically. This was the cause of one of my two stalling issues in my 2002 tribute. The other time was an issue with the #4 cylinder - they cleaned it, did a fuel system cleaning and it's purred like a kitten ever since.
Hope this helps.
T.
I pulled over and turned off the air and everything else worked normal again.
Called the mechanic but can't get the car in until Tuesday. He suggested I check out the battery for corrosion on the cables. None, just corrosion on a part of the battery no where near the cables. He mentioned a possible bad ground, I don't know where that is or what it looks like and wouldn't attempt to mess with anything electrical.
Any possible ideas as to what this could be? What kind of expense? (lost my job a month ago so pretty worried and have an interview next week 45 miles out of town so not sure what to do. Live in Texas and if I have to drive to the interview without air, I'm not going to be looking so nice drenched in sweat.)
Thanks :sick:
About a week ago we did start have problems with our trib dying when you come to a stop it will start back up no with no problem, I have read on this site that this is contributed to the Idle Air Control. I have not replaced this part yet. I also read here that there is a reprograming that has to be done after replacing the IAC, is this correct and how is this done. Thank you.