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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • luckylouluckylou Member Posts: 308
    Get the LC you will love it . We test drove the new Sequoia , the LX470 but loved the 2003 LC. Two months ago we purchased a new 2003 LC with most of the bells and whistles this is our first LC . What a great ride , is a heavy vehicle with quick feet .The options we got are: 18" wheels , navigation , tow hitch , turn signals on outside mirrors.
     Once again get the LC you will not be dissapointed.
     Good luck.
     
      Lou
  • williamk38williamk38 Member Posts: 20
    Well I finally did it. I have been debating for months between the '03 Land Rover Discovery and the newest LC I could afford. I had a Disco on hold and almost bought it, actually I was on the way to get it and my wife talked me out of it and back into the LC. I got a 2000 LC w/ 54k on it for $29,000. All regular Toyota maintenance was perfomed and my Cruiser mechanic that works on my '89 FJ62 w/ 202k gave it the double thumbs up.

    I can't tell you how glad I am that I bought this truck. It is the finest vehicle I have ever driven. The build quality is amazing, transmission and engine are impeccable and the off road features are astonishing. I couldn't be happier.

    Here are my final reasons for getting the LC:
    1. The brunt of the depreciation is gone. That truck won't move much in the next 5 years value wise, just in case, who knows what and we have to sell it. I couldn't get over how much the Discovery depreciates.
    2. It cost less, but I felt I got more.
    3. I truly believe that I will have less problems with a 3 year old LC than I will have with a brand new Discovery. Even without a warranty on the LC. In my opinion it is one of the best built vehicles in the world and will most likely last me to 250k plus with routine mainenance and very little problems. My 89 Fj62 was the most reliable truck in the household until the new LC. It now has a competitor.
    4. It just felt right.

    It was either a 2000 LC with 54k for $29,000 or a 2001 with 48k for $35,000. I figured save $6,000 and take the 2000. The truck with 54k actually checked out better with the mechanic as well.

    We are now a 2 cruiser family.
  • gteach26gteach26 Member Posts: 576
    Congratulations on your purchase! I'll print your post and give it to my wife so she'll let me buy the LX470 (landcruiser cousin) for "her" later this year! NO ONE ever talks bad about these babies.. it is simply amazing.
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    the clicking when i turn my wheels all the way to the left and right has gotten worse now. it clicks only at extreme angles and about 4-6 times both in drive and reverse when i accelerate.

    do you think that i need to replace the birfields or is overhauling the axles sufficient? would i need the steering knuckle kit, bearing kit, major & minor shim & gasket set, birfield seal replacement kit? (all as sold on SOR)

    the dealers i called said that if it starts clicking, its too late to save the axles and i definitely need to replace them.

    All your info is greatly appreciated.

    thanks again in advance
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Back on Page 131 (ish) you will find a bunch of dialogue on this issue. Idahodoug (where is he now I wonder) and joeblow amongst others have weighed in on the issue and I repeat some of it below:
    Quote:
    Do this test for me. In a parking lot, turn the wheels all the way and accelerate more briskly than you normally would at this sharp angle (as though you're trying to defend a parking slot in a busy mall - heh.) No need to floor it all the way, but you want to maneuver hard. If you floor it, the engine noise may mask what I want you to hear.

    If you hear a clicking noise when doing this in either direction, I want to know about it. This would be the CV (actually a birfield joint on the 80 series). They're correct that merely checking this joint is a lot of time and money.

    You never got back to me on whether you could hear it in low range or not? Also, how handy are you? If you are reasonably so, and can hear it in low range then there's an excellent test for the front shaft. You will need to crawl under the truck and remove 8 bolts - 4 at each end of the driveshaft. Put chalk marks on the flanges and shaft flanges before pulling it out and taking it for a drive. Noise still there? It's not your front driveshaft. The reason you can do this in low range is that the center diff is locked and you're basically driving with the rear axle only without the front shaft (if you have a diff lock switch to the right of the steering wheel next to the antenna switch, this should be locked. I think your year does NOT have this and auto locks in low range. If it does have it, lock it for this shaft-less experiment). It will take you no more than an hour to do this with hand tools.

    Having said all that, here's a primer on what I think is happening with your front axle. Looking under your front end from the front bumper, the front axle housing terminates at each end in spherical steel structure. In this sphere (STEERING KNUCKLE) are your birfield joints. The sphere is supposed to be full of thick grease. The axle housing (including diff) is supposed to be full of thin gear oil. Right as the axle housing flares into that sphere there is a seal through which the actual axle shaft pierces. The seal (AXLE SEAL) keeps the two types of fluids (thick grease/thin oil) apart. Another seal (STEERING KNUCKLE SEAL) keeps the thick grease from leaking out of the sphere onto the outside of the spherical surface you can see. It is normal for there to be some weeping here, and these seals slide directly against the outside of the sphere, leaving "edges" of thick grease built up at the limits of the wheel's turning ability. Normal.

    Over time, the AXLE seal wears and allows the thin grease into the steering knuckle. Here, it thins the grease out, and the grease runs out of the steering knuckle through the STEERING KNUCKLE SEALS, and also sometimes even onto the wheels via the drive plates. After awhile, the differential oil is low, and the steering knuckle is low - endangering both expensive components.

    Here is where things typically go horribly awry on a LandCruiser - owing to its uniqueness and the typical ignorance of many mechanics on these somewhat rare aspects.

    The lowest form of this mechanic ignorance takes this form: On the upper forward part of the steering knuckle is a square plug. This plug is only to be used to CHECK the grease level in the steering knuckle. But mechanics think this is to FILL the knuckle. It should only be used as an indicator of the grease level since the last disassembly and repack. Not for adding. Putting grease in here does not get it to the actual birfield joint - which is the place where it needs to be. So, many mechanics simply stuff grease in here and send the LandCruiser owner on his merry way thinking he's properly serviced the knuckle/joint. Unfortunately, the birfield resides in a separate chamber inside of the steering knuckle and it's still devoid of grease no matter how much you jam in that plug hole. This is the lowest form of maintenance and the cheapest.

    The second form of error costs a lot of money. The mechanic properly strips down the steering knuckle and repacks the birfield/steering knuckle by pulling the axle partway (but not all the way) out. Pulling it all the way out is simply a matter of pulling it another 3 feet and laying it on the bench, BTW. Upon reassembly, they replace the seals that seem to be allowing the grease to run out of the sphere where you can see it built up as mentioned earlier. They think this seal is the problem, after all (its actually a triple seal of rubber, felt and steel designed to contain thick grease, NOT thin oil) as that's where the leak is. Honest mistake, but it's the AXLE SEAL that is causing the grease to thin and leak. The axle is reassembled, the customer pays the bill (usually around $600 per side) and they drive off with that aforementioned axle seal not replaced. Anywhere from a month to 6 months later, the continued contamination of thin gear oil causes the thinned grease/oil mix to run out that new fancy triple seal again and causes a mess and lack of lube AGAIN. Sound familiar?

    So, what needs to be done is a PROPER axle service that will again last 60,000 miles before the axle seal starts to wear and leak. I doubt your birfield is toast, but will wait to hear about the "click" test to help you make a judgement. If your front diff has not been allowed to get low, the birfield is still running in oil and that's completely OK.

    Back to your front shaft. There are no less than THREE grease fittings on it and most mechanics are used to zero, or one. So, it may be that you simply need someone to grease the three zirc fittings. The more I think about it, this should be done before anything else and takes someone with a grease gun about 3 minutes if they take the time to properly wipe off each fitting before filling it with grease.

    IdahoDoug

    Unquote
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for the reference. The part that i'm not quite sure about is the reference to the following

    "I doubt your birfield is toast, but will wait to hear about the "click" test to help you make a judgement."

    How bad does the clicking have to be to make it necessary to replace the birfields?

    Thanks again for any comments.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Congrats to everyone who recently stepped up to the LC. I've had my 99 for 6 weeks now. 118,000 miles, drives like a dream.

    Once again, I am shopping for tires. I was wanting a 6 or 8 ply LT tire, but can't seem to find one in the stock P275/70/16 size. What is the closest alternative, or should I just shut up and get the stock 4 ply passenger tires (Michelin, Goodyear or Bridgestones)?
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    So is it the popular opinion that the Land Cruiser will return in 2004, perhaps for the last time in its current state?

    I also imagine that with the recent changes, I shouldn't expect to see any changes in 2004. Memory seats and power retracting mirrors would be nice!
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Try looking at some 285/75 R 16's. They fit, make the look much better and are just a little bit bigger. I am running 285/75 R 16 BFG ATs.

    fj100

    PS - I am also running John Deere HIR Low beams, email me offline if you want the scope. This mod makes a world of difference for the low beams and cost about $61 total.
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    I have heard the LC will be here in 2004. The only new feature I have heard is a rearview camera that runs thru the nav screen.

    Regards,

    fj100
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    That would be nice! How reliable is your source?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    No reason not to expect an '04 LC, as model runs are typically 7 years. Though many are speculating that we may not see a next generation LC here in the US due to the popularity of the Sequoia. As the SUV market remains strong and more and more consumers want them, the core group of LC loyalists is probably fairly constant, but seems to be smaller as the Seqs gain in popularity. I think Toys scheme may be to market Rav 4s as small SUVs, 4 Runners as mid size, Seqs as full size and LCs as luxury SUVs. Given the length of time LCs have been coming in and it's heritage, it's hard to imagine Toy won't continue to bring them here too. There will most surely be next generation LCs as they are the top selling SUV worldwide. So, I've got my fingers crossed.

    I think one of the obvious issues is that the average Joe looking for a top SUV takes a look at an LC and the larger Seq and can't figure out why he/she should pay so much more for the smaller LC. Find it hard to believe that Toy would "give up" the luxury SUV niche to RR?

    I readily admit my devotion to LCs and hopes of continued importing of them here. One thing I notice is the lack of advertising for LCs. If they weren't selling, why isn't there a lot of advertising to get rid of remaining '03s?
  • rentschlrentschl Member Posts: 69
    I'm looking for information on an issue that I (and others) are seeing on 2003 V8 Toyota 4Runners. I thought I'd check with other discussion groups to see if this issue is present on other 4.7L V8 equipped Toyotas. This includes: Tacomas, Sequias and Landcruisers.

    The Issue
    ---------
    A groaning noise, especially apparent when reving the engine. Also a distinct loss of power. More noticeable when climbing steep hills or accelerating.

    When it Occurs
    --------------
    Only when ambient temperatures reach into the upper 90s and above. At lower temperatures the vehicle behaves fine.

    Theory
    ------
    The fan clutch reacts to ambient temperature and slips when cooling is not needed. It locks when more cooling is necessary. When it locks, the rpm of the cooling fan is higher, thus the noise. This is not new technology and has been utilized for years. It is called a viscous clutch mechanism.

    The theory is that the viscous clutch is locking up at the higher ambient temperatures, causing the fan to spin faster. This accounts for the noise and the power loss. Several subscribers have experience with this in other vehicles and point out that when the viscous clutch locks-up the fan takes a tremendous amount of power from the engine.

    See Also
    --------
    There has been on-going discussion on the Edmund's discussion group titled "Toyota 4Runner".

    Other V8 Equipped Toyotas?
    --------------------------
    If other V8 equipped Toyotas do not display this behavior, then I would speculate that maybe there's something different about their cooling systems. Maybe the 4Runner, being smaller, didn't have as much room for as big a radiator. Maybe they compensated by using a viscous clutch with a lower "lock-up" temperature???

    Articles
    --------
    http://www.atra-gears.com/gears/2002-10/2002_10_64.pdf
    http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200207-en.pdf#dst01

    What experiences has anyone had with anything like this on any 4.7L V8 equipped Toyota?

    Thanks,
    Eric Rentschler
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Well put Steelcruiser. I am in the same boat, I hope they bring the next real LC wagon here to the States. It is nice to able to purchase the best SUV on the planet. I am huge fan of the 100 series and I want to see what is next. If they do not bring the real LC to the states, I will driving used 100 series the rest of my life. Which is not to bad. All SUVs are going soft and that is a scary thought.

    My question, Does Toyota think they can fool the "general public" with a rebadged sequioa as the top of the line Lexus VX550 or whatever they are going to call it? You know the bling, bling edition to take on the escalade and navigator. That is going to be interesting to see. Imagine the profit margin on that beast.
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Nothing like that on my '99 LC with 73k miles. My 2 other friends with '99 LCs have never experienced such a thing.

    Good luck,

    fj100
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    In considering our next SUV, power folding mirrors are a nice feature, especially in the rain. We currently have them and use them every time we pull into the garage, as it is a tight fit with two cars. I know that the LX470 has them and the LC does not.

    Given the similarities between the two, is it possible to buy the parts to convert the LC mirrors.

    Also: When searching "2004 Land Cruiser", I see an article on Autospys showing what they claim to be a 2004 Land Cruiser, which is clearly a GX 470 with a Toyota badge. Given that the article is from 1992, what's the deal? Is that old/dead news?
  • txaggie117txaggie117 Member Posts: 1
    Howdy,

    Thanks to everyone who put down such great pointers and thoughts on the LC, it's made picking a LC infinitely easier!

    I've found a nice '97 LC that has 105k miles on it and has been well maintained.

    While I learned a lot from this forum, I'm still worried that there will be something waiting for me as the vehicle racks up the miles.

    Are there common/expensive repairs for a 100k+ mile LC that I should know about?

    Also, how do maintenance costs stack? I looked at the recommended maintenance every 5,000miles, and that's more than reasonable. But does Toyota charge more for LC parts than, say, 4Runner parts?

    Any help is appreciated, thanks!
    TX Aggie
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    fj100--just my thoughts, but I do have some Toy contacts and have been told there will be a next generation LC here, but I think what you've heard and I've heard elsewhere too, may not be idle rumors. OTH, I just find it so hard to believe that Toy would abandon the LC name. And again, (repeating myself), if LCs weren't moving, how come I seldom see any at the dealers, in any major newspaper or TV promotional ads, and very few used ones in the LA Times. I'd like to think that there are still enough "informed" people that know of the legend of the LC to warrant continued importation of them to the US. Repeating myself once more, I'm very guilty of exposing my very obvious biases =)

    Another thought occurred to me. What if "they" decided to quit badging LCs/LX470s separately, and just called them Landcruisers? Conceivable, we could have more options to consider? Gee, wish they would take some customer inputs =)

    rugeti: the pictures you've seen via the link posted here a while back are of the Landcruiser 90 Series (Prado), our 4Runner/GX470

    follow this link and note the top picture

    http://www.imakenews.com/autospies/e_article000116255.cfm
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    As to concerns about your "new" LC. If the vehicle has been well maintained by the PO, you can have every reasonable expectation of a lot more miles. Also, if you've never owned one before, you can adjust your driving to minimize one prominent "problem" with the 80 series LC.....brakes! These are heavy vehicles and the pads and rotors can take a beating. Birfields also need attention from time to time. If it hasn't failed yet, you may need to give your starter some attention. Also, P/S pump might be starting to leak. Due to full time 4WD, tires don't last all that long either.

    I never really had any thing that I would call major with my 80 series. Just go by the book and I'm sure you'll pat yourself on the back every time you get in and turn the key =)
  • becchabeccha Member Posts: 1
    Any advice welcome!! I am thinking about looking for an older Land Cruiser... I like the body style of the late "80's. Am I nuts? If I could find one that is well maintained? People seem to be very loyal to these cars. Should I look for one that has a new engine, or re-built? Should I be concerned about high mileage on an original engine? Again, any advice welcome- thanks for your time!
    Beccha
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    All I can tell you is that my LC (Fj80 of 1991 Vintage) had a hell of a clicking noise but after repacking (which took the dealer three goes - it was expensive but the second two attempts were on the Toyota repair guarantee) the clicking noise went away.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Post '94 fzj80s seem to be more susceptible to head gasket failures, possibly due to re-designed radiators that clog up with deposits. If I were buying a '95 to '97 TLC, I would have the cooling system checked for exhaust gases, indicating a leak between the combustion chambers and the cooling system. Change the coolant frequently and keep a close eye on the rad. If you need to replace the radiator, consider going with the '93/'94 style, or aftermarket, all metal rad.

    Brake pads wear quickly, but they are easily changed. The braking system itself works very well. Front axle seals are a maintenance item on all 80 series rigs.
  • cdlynchcdlynch Member Posts: 2
    Traction control is not available on a 1999 TLC, but is standard in 2000. Is this a marketing gimmick of some sort? I may want to save money and buy a used 1999 instead of a 2000 ($5 - $7k price difference). The 1999 has an electronic full time 4 wheel drive system which redirects power the non slipping wheel (to the best of my limited knowledge) - isn't this the same thing as traction control? Can someone please shed some light on this for me?

    thank you in advance.

    chris
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    Anyone know anything definitive on a date for the 2004 models? My local dealer just says "usually September."

    I have a lease that ends at the end of September so my timing is somewhat critical.

    I check here often (along with the web) as far as any clues about new options for 2004 as well. The only thing I have seen is one poster saying there might be a rear-view camera wired to the nav system.

    I was hoping for HID lights.

    So any info someone has on those two topics would be much appreciated.

    Bob.
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    Don't quote me on this, but I recall seeing some discussions that HID lights are not put on certain SUV's due to their height and the possibility of blinding other drivers.

    As for the other issue, I'm with you and would like to know when they are arriving and what, if anything, is going to be changed.
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    I just checked a couple of manu web sites. The Lexus LX does not have them, and they don't appear to be an option. But the Escalade does have them. So it doesn't appear to be s federal mandate or something.

    I have noticed in several reviews they felt the headlights were weak on recent TLC's - hence my interest.

    Bob.
  • gteach26gteach26 Member Posts: 576
    have HID also (I own an '03). Why Lexus doesn't offer them on the GX/LX I will never know. Properly aimed HID's shouldn't bother anyone, even on tall vehicles... NO ONE has ever complained about mine -- no flashing lights from oncoming traffic, etc.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Tx Aggie-
    Gigem! I agree with Steelcruiser and Joeeblow that a good maintenance history is the key. Have it checked out by a good mechanic who's looked at a few of these. It took me 4-5 months of looking and reading old posts to convince me the Landcruiser is the way to go. I bought a 99 with 117,000 miles and complete service records. I plan on testing the "those things will last forever" theory.

    Becca- If you like it, buy it. I passed up the opportunity for a '90 FJ62. They are definitely classics, and that thing was 10 times nicer than my '90 Ford. You may have to update the maintenance, but if it's mechanically sound, it should be worth it.

    cdlynch- The 99 does not have any traction control features like the newer models, but the 4wd system is very flexible- full time 4WD high, 4wd high w/ center differential locked, 4wd low w/ center differential locked, and some have a locking rear differential. Look at the "Toyota 4WD Systems Explained" board for a complete discussion of these features.
    In regular, full time 4wd, one wheel with no traction will get all the power and begin to spin.
    The debate will rage on and on about which of these systems is best, and I haven't used mine enough yet to say.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    My cousin said he's having the HIDs insatalled on his 99 470, but I haven't seen them yet, so he may think he's getting them, but may be getting a snow job.

    I've put some PIAA Extreme White bulbs in my '02 and have PIAA Super Whites in my '94. Not HID, but an improvement.

    Hopefully, we'll get an '05 next generation LC and it will have HIDs on it.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Here in the US, we have crappy headlamp regs and sleeping political appointee regulators. In Europe where they consider vehicle safety and motoring proficiency paramount, the opposite climate exists. As I write this, HID headlamp systems throughout Europe have been dramatically revised due to excessive stray light to oncoming traffic. They were nearly banned, but automakers have accepted a new plan where all vehicles with them must have a high speed automatic leveling system for the lamps that even dips them when you come over a small rise. Several European vehicles already have had this feature for a couple years.

    That's why US SUVs have them (not sold in Europe or any other country besides the US). The Cruiser is built for a world market. Since the laws are in flux, Toyota may be waiting for the dust to settle before adding HIDs. Shouldn't be long.

    As for adding HIDs, I'll be interested in hearing if this actually happens, or if the cousin is paying a few hundred bucks for some blue bulbs and upgraded wiring. Let us know, because if there is a way to add true HID lamps, they're very effective.

    On a related note, I'm trying out an upgraded high beam for my 80 series using a 9011 bulb that only requires a bit of filing to fit. Should get them in a week or so and will share results.

    IdahoDoug
  • dickballarddickballard Member Posts: 9
    What does the LC NAV system do when you go off road or on a forest service road that is not in it's map database? Does it show the actual location? Or does it complain or do anything strange? Can you get it to plot a "back track" route to get you back to where you left the known road?

    I ask this because the Range Rover NAV apparently has some sort of off road capability. I don't know how it works, but the above scenario would be one useful mode.

    Also does the NAV DVD data disk stay in the reader under the passenger seat, or does the data get loaded into some kind of memory so the DVD can be removed and safely stored? If the latter, what kind of memory?

    Dick
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Traction control was added because of the "Moose Test", basically the car will keep you from going out of control if you swerve to miss an object at 50 mph or above. Frankly, I would run over the Moose in this suituation since it is a Land Cruiser. Also, this system is extremely good for offroading.

    fj100
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    On a lead from an Aussie LC driver, I went to John Deere (actually made by GE) and ordered some 55W HIR bulbs, these bulbs make an incredible difference. One nub on housing on the bulbs have to be filed down a little to fit however this took about 30 seconds per bulb. These are the low beams have DOT written on them and they cost about $28 bucks each. For high beams, I ordered 130W IPF HIRs. These were $58 each. These lights have made an incredible difference. I would highly recommend these. These are not HID's.

    Here are links to an articles on the bulbs.

    http://www.gelighting.com/na/litlib/t_hal_hir_jdeere.html

    http://www.gelighting.com/na/downloads/hir1techsheet1.pdf

    Best Regards,

    Andrew
  • gteach26gteach26 Member Posts: 576
    Thanks idahodoug.. now I have a reasonable explanation as to why the large import SUV's don't have HID's. Still.. why would it be so difficult (costly) for Lex SUV's destined for the U.S. to have HID's as an option? I'm not 100% sure, but don't RangeRovers have 'em?
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    The 9011 bulbs you speak of are the John Deere bulbs, it had 9011 printed on the housing. The John Deere part # is AH162232.

    fj100
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Doug:
    Will do. Forgot to mention Andrew's post on the JDeere bulbs.
    As to HIDs on the 470, maybe RX 330, LC 430 et al systems fit?
    Will be seeing my cousin this weekend and will see if he's had it done yet.
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    I feel funny asking this question, because one of the main reasons we are considering the LC is it's quality/reliability.

    Given that we will likely keep the car for 7 years, what are your opinions about buying an extended warranty from the dealer? For those of you that have, what can I expect to pay?

    Historically, I've always said no, mainly because we have usually turned our cars over before the warranty ended. This wont be the case with this car, because one of our justifications for spending the extra $$$ to get the LC is because it is a car we will be happy driving longer.
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    Will the 55W HIR bulbs you mentioned work on a 98?

    Thanks.
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    The 55w John Deere bulbs will work on the '98 model. When you get them, take the current bulb out, match up the housings to the new bulb, file the height of one tab down, insert new bulb, done!

    The funny part is when you call the John Deere dealer, these bulbs are for their $200k (8 wheels) plus tractors. The guy said, that is a big tractor, I said, "Yes sir it is!"
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #2966

    7 years? Gee, don't even bother! If you drive between 12-15k per year that will put you in 84-105k. With a 1987 TLC I had 2200 in unscheduled repairs with app 250k miles.
  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    Per steelcruiser's advice (thanks!) I went with the PIAA Xtreme White Plus Bulbs ($79.00/pr). Here's the Kelvin scale rating steelcruiser originally posted:

    sunlight 5250K
    HIDs 4300K
    Xtreme Whites 4150K
    Super Whites 3800K
  • rugetirugeti Member Posts: 54
    What has your maintenance been like?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    2966. Glad you like the bulbs. I've been happy with mine and have had no complaints with any of the PIAA bulbs I've installed on my LCs. Had the Super Whites in my '94 and for about 3 years and no problems. Hopefully, the Ex Whites will be just as good.

    2971 I've never gotten an extended warranty on any of my LCs, but know others that have. And ruking, among others, can and will (I'm sure) give you plenty of inputs on the reliability and longevity of LCs. Just one of many reasons that once bitten by the LC bug, nothing else even comes close, but......these newer ones have more and more "gadgets" and electronic components that are pretty pricey to replace. I'm sure you'll get more postings on the extended warranties here that can help you decide. Just my .02 on the matter. No matter what you decide WRT the warranty, you'll surely be glad you opted for an LC over anything else. These things are tight new and stay that way.
    Enjoy!
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    FJ100:

    Thanks for the reply. I'm assuming the 55W bulb for the low beam is the GE 9012 (not the 9011). Please let me know if I am correct.

    Thanks.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #2969

    FJ 80 maintenance has been oil and filter changes with Mobil One synthetic 5w-30. I do the 30k "major tune" at the dealer. 60k intervals, as you may know is the time when the valves on the 94-97 TLC needs to be checked. All of mine have never needed the valve adjust. I skip the 15k intervals but do the oil and filter change. Brakes have been due usually between 40-47k. Due to the fact that the FJ80 has more 24/7 current draw, the batteries tend to crap out at the 10 year mark.

    On the FJ 60 the unscheduled maintenance items have been 1. radiator,600 dollars at the 13th year, 2. master/slave brake cylinder, 430 dollars, if I remember 4th-5th year, 3. alternator 6th year 300 dollars, 4. starter, 400. needed 1 # of freon after 12 years. 50? 5. PS pump 200-300 dollars. 6. Had the drive belts changed as an after thought when the PS pump was replaced, 70 dollars All work was done at the dealer, so for DIYers, the labor cost would cut the cost app 50-60 % Brakes pads were needed app 60k per cycle. The battery crapped out @ the 14th year. I used this machine for a daily driver and also client/delivery/work truck. Weekends saw 1-3 day trips, tahoe was a favorite destination in all seasons. I got the machine for 16k new in 1986 and sold it in 2000 for 9k.
  • dhumphridhumphri Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if Toyota made changes to the design of the drivetrain in 100series cruisers from year 2000 onwards (talking about 4.5lt six with auto trans). Regards Darren
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Yes, they are the John Deere bulbs are the 9012. Sorry about that.

    fj100
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Darren,

    Here in the US, the 4.5L ended with the 80 series in '97. Our 100 series has the V8 only.

    IdahoDoug
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    What does anyone reccomend for adding lube to the front and rear diffs, and transfer case? I tried a tranny funnel, but it was still difficult. Also, what is the proper tool for the front diff plugs? Along with the lug nuts, someone really cranked down the drain and fill plugs on my 99 Cruiser. I'm in the process of changing all the lube to Amsoil synthetic. Again, I'm shooting for the 1 million mile mark. (just 881,601 miles to go). It may take a while at 10-12K per year.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Get a 5 gallon bucket of gear lube and a hand pump. Both can be had from NAPA or similar. I'm not familiar with the diff plug on your 100. It may be a 24mm socket.
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