Toyota Land Cruiser

steelcruiser · May 2004

Thought this might be of interest to posters here

http://www.digitalspy.co.uk/tv/listings/displaysched.php

5th Gear on Tue 5/11

stever · May 2004

Looks like a popular spot:

Vatnajokull

Steve, Host

alatlc · May 2004

The cover of my cup holder just came off as well, and a search turned up this string of posts. I tried to pop the cover off (it is one of the wood laminate covers) but could only get the right rear clip off. Are there clips at all four corners> Any advice on how to get them to let go? What document/diagram is Hank14 referring to that shows the locations of the clips? I want to fix this, but don't want to end up having to buy a new console cover. Maybe I'm being too delicate with thw cover. Thanks

hank14 · May 2004

I'll see if I can scan and post the diagram showing the location of the clips. The other ones are across from, next to, and diagonal to the one on the lower right, about equally spaced. I am referring to the wood grain cover that goes around the gear shifter and the 4 hi-lo shifter, which is connected to the cup holders.

redeemer · May 2004

I have a 2000 LC with running boards which I hate. Snow and mud have made them look like crap. Would like to replace them with Nerf Bars but cannot find any after market. I cold have some fabricated but would probably be expensive relative to ready made. Has anyone out there got a solution? Perhaps bars made for another vehicle that could be fitted by doing my own drilling on the frame.

steelcruiser · May 2004

Check http://www.performanceproducts.com/. They have tubular side steps to replace the RBs. I assume you want side steps--not sliders, which are a different item?

redeemer · May 2004

Thanks Steelchaser for the tip. Found the side steps at Perfoemance Products as you suggested. I am actually planning to fit them to a 2000 LX470. I assumed the fit would be the same as the vehicles are pretty much carbon copies frame wise. However, PP does not list them for an LX470. Do they assume that all LX470's come equiped with running boards (which are easily removed) and therefor side steps are not needed, or is there some other problem with fit due to teh LX470 adjustable suspension. Visually I cannot see any problem. Any thoughts?

steelcruiser · May 2004

I saw a 470 the other day with the side bars on it.

Removal is pretty straight forward, though the front end caps require a little "twisting and jiggling". (Check with PP if you have any fitment issues.) Do you have any lights in the RBs?

No suspension component issues WRT to the RBs

HTH

bill_l · May 2004

I am planning to get a 00' TLC. Could anyone please give me some good sources or the name of nice dealors around Boston area? Your help will be highly appreciated.

Bill

caidw · May 2004

My 2000 LC's (48 K mile) power antenna failed today. When I turned on radio, antenna did not get out. Do I need new power antenna? I saw a quite few cases of antenna problem in this forum. It looks like a few hours of work. Do Toyota extended warrenty cove this failure?
Thanks for any info.

Don

tlc_utah · May 2004

Hi,

The compass in the rear view mirror does not display anything. Has anyone faced a similiar problem?

Thanks.

dickballard · May 2004

I finally got around to hooking up my 2003 LC to my travel trailer. I already had previously installed a Prodigy brake controller, after some difficulty finding the connector and cable assembly, but hadn't yet tested the whole system.

The LC and Prodigy worked well with my 16ft 3000lb trailer. Not so for the trailer battery hookup, at least not until I had done some rewiring.

Prior to my first trip this past weekend, I had discovered that the trailer battery would back feed through the LC trailer connection and keep some items in the LC alive with the ignition off. The odometer LCD and AC fan would continue to run and thus discharge the trailer battery while stopped for lunch enroute to the campground.

Before I bought the LC I had discovered a TSB on the web that described such a problem but with the daytime running lights. Mine did not have that problem and the TSB VIN range didn't apply to mine so I thought they had fixed the problem.

I called Toyota and was told the old TSB was canceled and a new one is imminent. But I was ready to tow, so I attacked the issue with my Toyota electrical systems manual in hand. Seems that there is a relay intended to isolate the trailer battery charge line when the ignition is off. However there are other items served by the same relay, namely the AC, the rear wiper, an ECU line, and a gauge line. The battery charge line needs to be separately isolated.

So I added a relay (12v coil, 30amp contacts, Radio Shack 275-226) in series with the trailer battery charge line and fed the coil with an IGNITION ON line from junction connector J4 near the ignition switch. I suspect the upcoming Toyota TSB will do something similar.

An alternate temporary solution, if you don't need trailer battery charging while towing, is to just remove the 30A BATT CHARGE fuse located just above the left kick panel in the driver's foot well.

dickballard · May 2004

Do you have the Nav system? If so, there is no compass function in the mirror.

mobiweld · May 2004

I had an antenna fail. It didn't require the motor to be replaced. There's a coiled plastic "snake" that runs the length of the antenna and attaches to the very top of the mast. When it detaches from the mast (when it breaks), it no longer goes up and/or down. In my case, I could hear the antenna motor run for about 30 seconds and then it would finally shut off. I went to an auto-radio specialist type place that installs...well....auto radio accessories and they had the antenna sorted out in about 10 minutes. Also, evertime the mast gets lowered, it pulls in all kinds of dirt and crap into the module at the base. It's pretty impressive how much dirt collects.

albiv · May 2004

http://www.bbc.co.uk/topgear/prog28/toyota.shtml

grantchstr · May 2004

I am afraid my Fj80 is getting very expensive to run right now - $40-50 to fill her up now is getting too much.

My guess is that it will be hard to even give an LC away soon, so the residual values are going to hell in a handbasket.

hank14 · May 2004

Wait until winter rolls around again. Everyone will be looking for the most reliable winter drving vehicle around. I've noticed after watching Ebay for 2 years- LC's for sale are pretty scarce November through February and more plentiful during the summer.

The good news is premium fuel is getting proportionately less expensive. Where I have lived in Texas and New Mexico, it's always been about $0.20 more than reg. unlead. When reg was $0.89, premium was $1.09, 22% more. Now at $1.98 and $2.18, respectively, it's about 10% higher.

If you must, drive it less often and keep it forever.

steelcruiser · May 2004

IMHO, there may initially be some negative impact on resale value. But, over the long run, LCs probably won't "suffer" as much as other SUVs.

Just my .02 worth.

subsid · May 2004

Recently bought a '96 with 75k on the odo

.

Need help diagnosing a whine that seems to be coming from the rear driveshaft or differential. It comes in speeds in excess of 50mph and only when the accelerator is pressed. At steady speeds, on cruise control or otherwise, all's quiet.

For good measure, I got the tranny & coolant flushed and replaced . Also got the LOF done. The greasing of the driveshaft seemed to get rid of the whine for about 300 miles, but now the whine is back.

Any clue what may be wrong?

steelcruiser · May 2004

There are whines and there are whines. What you are hearing may be "normal". With the transfer case, drive shafts and two diffs whirling around, there is a certain amount of noise to be expected on acceleration/decceleration.

Do you have any other "symptoms" or info that makes you think what you're hearing is abnormal? You mention cooling and tranny flushes, but nothing about diff/TCase oil check/change, propeller shaft, flange torquing etc.

If you can, get a hold of a shop manual and locate these various areas for lube and possible tightening.

HTH

hank14 · May 2004

If you are concerned about bad fuel economy, consider one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479847134&category=33558.

Anyone know if this works? 4-5 mpg increase (depending on driving style).

stever · May 2004

Try an Advanced Search for posts like this:

mac24 "Jeep Wrangler" Mar 22, 2004 3:17pm

Steve, Host

tlcman · May 2004

dono if it works seems like a gimmick, $60+ is too much for a pice of billet aluminum, or what ever. You could spend that money on a K&N filter, something that is proven to give more millage, some performance, and better sound. Im sorry the Info on that bidding page looks like something from an infomercial, they sound like false claims that is not backed up with test results...15-20 HP and 25ftlbs of torque gain is almost unreal from a piece of metal, this will just be a waste of money and there will not be "super performance"...don't belive everything you read.

hank14 · May 2004

I agree with you, TLCMan. The only way to improve mileage on the LC, IMO, is to remove some of the excess metal, like the heavy frame, thick body panels, heavy duty lugs, wheels, axles etc, etc. But then it would just be equivalent to an Explorer or Tahoe. I was underneath mine last night checking things over, and am still amazed at how sturdily these things are put together. I'll pay a little more for gas but drive mine three times as long, thank you very much!

tlcman · May 2004

There is a simple way to squeeze more MPG out of your gas and that is personal driving style, Hard accelerations, and quick braking will decrease the overall MPG of your car as much a 4-5 MPG. Doesnt sound like alot but with gas prices going up its worth it. Hard accels will open the throttle up as far as it will go, letting the most gas into your engine, slower accels are more efficient. Hard braking usually means that you have been on the accelerator and then pulled the foot off to hit the brake, instead of this you could let the car coast, this gives minimal fuel to the engine yet you are still traveling at a constant but slowing speed. I would not recommend taking plating off of LCs to get better millage, everything is put there for a reason, and plus the vehicle weighs just over 2.5 tones so a reduction of 100LBs of steel at the most will not make a noticeable difference.

steelcruiser · May 2004

Interesting item on fuel economy....BMW did some studies about this several years ago and they developed the "e" or eta engines. Their theory was that getting to speed quickly was actually more efficient than slow acceleration. IIRC they felt the best way to achieve this was at about 70% of full throttle. The down side from the enthusiasts standpoint was the "e" engines weren't very high revving, red lining at something like 5200 rpm.

But with an LC easy acceleration and lots of coasting sure helps

at least until the hybrid LCs arrive. ;-)

tlcman · May 2004

Yes that might (and based on German know how) is probably right, leave it to the Germans to study this. Dont get me wrong Im not bashing Germans... partly because I am 50% German... and 50% Swedish ... But yes 70% throttle is most likely just right for a light sedan or coupe and leave it to BMW to figure it out. But for a 2.5 tone LC slower is better!!
Good point I had almost forgotten about the e BMW's I thought that they ran on diesel? That would explain the low Redline.

steelcruiser · May 2004

This was in the early 80s while knock sensors, cats etc, were getting sorted out and the higher revving engines had lower compression--8.5:1 or something like that. BMW upped the compression, and lowered the redline.

I think the "e" engines were only used for about 5 years or so. I'm sure that Toyota has some pretty significant engine changes on the horizon to address not only fuel economy, but emissions too.

Stand by OPEC

eaglecap · May 2004

I have a similar problem with a 94 LC. Whine starts at 40 mph, becomes loader up to 65, then decreases passed 70. Occurs when power is to drive train only, no sound when coasting. Have not been able to pin point location. I replaced bearings in rear diff and rear axle bearings. The ring and pinion gears can make this noise when they wear, but mine looked fine. Found some info that the transfer case gears can not align right, but have not confirmed this. I will keep checking back to see if you find solution or I'll post if I do. Good luck.

luckylou · June 2004

In 3 days I ll have my 1st year of owning this awesome 2003 TLC suv .
Back in 1974 just about 30 years ago we went from cheap gas to over $1.00 per gallon and once again the prices have skyrocketed to $2.00 and $3.00.
When the prices hit $3.00 per gallon I will drive the LC on weekends and perhaps buy a Toyota hybrid or invest in the hydrogen technology, that is not far into the future.
Sorry for changing the present conversation.
I have been very ill for a long while but finally I am seeing a clearing and out of the woods .
Thanks.
Lou

coupedncal · June 2004

Sorry to hear about your illness. As for gasoline prices, please allow me to offer a different perspective. We in the US tend to live our lives thinking cheap gasoline is our birth right. We want the world to cater to our whims and we go to any extent to make sure we get inexpensive gas. We on one hand don't want big govt in our lives but we are perfectly ok letting the govt subsidize our gas prices (by keeping the taxes low and through our foreign policies). If you really remove these artificial conditions and let the market decide the price, we'd be paying the true price for it. We need to wonder why is it that we are not able to twist other nations' arm to sell us automobiles at prices that favor us but we are perfectly ok in doing so for gasoline.

Nothing against the original poster. And thanks for letting me blow my steam.

steenh1 · June 2004

Subsidized gas would mean that the government was actually paying for the gas and giving it to us. Keeping taxes low is not a subsidy, it's policy and I would argue that the taxes really aren't that low... just much lower than in other countries.

The high prices of gas in other countries isn't due to market prices... it's due to government overtaxing a commodity. Gas costs roughly the same in Europe as it does here... they just tax the crap out of it.

I like it our way better.

grantchstr · June 2004

The Europeans have it right. Gas should be highly taxed. Gas is a scarce resource to start with and high prices ensure efficiency and energy conservation. In addition those high taxes on gas are used someplace else in government spending - like FREE HEALTH CARE WE DONT HAVE IN THE US.

Lets face it we waste gas in the US hand over fist and that thinking also trashes our public transportation system. We have a lousy train and commuter system in most cities.

In conclusion: there is no way I would drive a non-diesel Landcruiser in the UK at $6.50 a gallon I can tell you that. But in the US I do and so I waste gas!

coupedncal · June 2004

I agree with grantchstr about taxation on gasoline in the US. With inexpensive gas available to us, we consume much more of it and don't spend enough resources attempting to seek out alternate sources for energy. What is the incentive for us to look elsewhere when we pay less for gas at the pump than what we pay for retail "branded" bottled water. The US is a nation of 275 million people (about 4% of world population) and we consume any where between 30% to 40% of oil resources (depending on which study you go by). This is excessive, in my opinion, even for our consumption oriented society.

ruking1 · June 2004

This is a shameless plug for the IRS. There is nothing to prevent you from sending the IRS a check for the difference in the price of gas say 6.50 vs 2.24 per gal. calculated on your yearly consumption level.

mobiweld · June 2004

Since when is taxation an appropriate mechanism to affect product pricing? If you want socialized healthcare (like in Europe), that money has to come from somewhere. Americans love their gas guzzling vehicles. As gas prices increase, perhaps the out-of-pocket expense for gas will adjust our collective love for SUV's to something smaller and more effecient. The concept of increasing gas taxes to facilitate change seems counter productive, as this will increase the costs associated with our entire oil-based economy, including most goods and services we enjoy. Food transportation costs will increase, road work, textiles, manufacturing....everything uses oil.

hank14 · June 2004

This is from a previous thread- has anyone else had this problem? My '99 is doing the same thing. It takes several tries for the engine to turn over, but I can hear a clicking noise (like a solenoid). The battery and alternator checked out OK, and different keys have not made a difference. Sorry about the long pasted post, but this sounds identical to my problem and it was never followed up on the board.
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#2789 of 3797 Starter engages but doesn't crank by ndorsey Jun 13, 2003 (12:03 pm)
Has anyone experienced this problem?
This is a 99 LC, Starter engages but doesn't crank, after the second or third try the truck will start. I tried it with both keys thinking it may the emmobilizer but does the same thing. After starting I shut down and it will repeat it self.
I thought it was a weak battery, or loose connections but everything is good, I thought it was a flat spot on the armature but not sure.

Possible computer?

Any suggestions would be helpful

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#2790 of 3797 ndorsey by scifi Jun 13, 2003 (12:47 pm)
I currently have a couple of keys without the immobilizer chip in them. The engine will crank over but will not start as the fuel and ignition systems have not been activiated.

Now, I have heard that the engine may fail to start if: the engine immobilizer system key's ring is over the top of the key; a Mobil-type transponder is on the key ring; or if another immobilizer key is on the same key ring.

If your vehicle doesn't crank then you can rule out the immobilizer. If the battery is good, my first thought to you would be to look at the starter.

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#2791 of 3797 ndorsey by idahodoug Jun 13, 2003 (4:57 pm)
You need to do a bit more on describing what's happening. For instance, you say the starter "engages", but "doesn't crank". Most people consider an engine cranking over when the starter engages and the engine is spinning. Starting means the engine has caught and is now spinning under it's own power.

Simply getting a single loud click under the hood, but no engine movement is another typical problem.

Tell us more specifically what you hear and feel with an eye toward putting us in mentally in your car.

IdahoDoug

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#2792 of 3797 idahodoug by ndorsey Jun 13, 2003 (5:45 pm)
For instance, you say the starter "engages", but "doesn't crank" - Yes the bendix actually engages into the flywheel as if its going to start, but it doesn't rotate the flywheel.

My first thought was Battery, but the batt. is good

It does this about two or three times then it starts. When I shut the engine down it repeats the same sequence.

Does that help any?

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#2794 of 3797 starter by bryan28 Jun 14, 2003 (12:23 am)
sounds like a bad starter, if I'm understanding you. It sounds like the starter is shorting out. What happens to the electrical system when it is trying to turn over? Check how much current the starter is drawing when trying to start. What is the sound when it is trying to turn over?

stever · June 2004

And with the starter question, let's get back to the topic. Thanks,

Steve, Host

stever · June 2004

What is this discussion about? Toyota Land Cruiser.

If you want to talk gas in general, try the Your Gas Mileage: Facts & Figures discussion or CAFE Standards; In Line or In Need of Adjustment?, or one of the other topics in News & Views.

People come here (mostly) to talk about the TLC, not health care or gas taxes. Thanks,

Steve, Host

grantchstr · June 2004

For all but a handful of people, cheap gas is the only way to justify a vehicle like the LC with its heavy gas consumption. It now costs me $50-$60 to fill up. There have been discussions about how to improve mpg efficiency on the LC. I dont see why its such a big deal to have a couple of threads about the other side of this equation - about the cost of gas and the components of its price. Perhaps those discussions are best served on the Boards you mention but most LC owners - or their wallets - are directly affected by high gas prices.

steelcruiser · June 2004

Maybe for new LC buyers, rather than those who've owned them for many years. And keep in mind there are lots of other SUVs to choose from. LCs are a rather small percentage of SUVs, in the US, though I believe they're the best selling worldwide.

If you're a LC devotee, gas mileage is a "nice to have", but not a deal breaker. Would be interesting to know if LC sales have slipped since the gas prices have spiked upward. And consider what other LC owners in the rest of the world pay for their gas.

coupedncal · June 2004

I don't believe the discussion around the gas consumption and prices takes away anything from the goodness of this terrific rig. If anything, as mentioned by others here, it will move this truck out of hands of status hungry buyers and into hands of people who really appreciate it for its true purpose. In my humble opinion, it is more car than the use it currently gets (generally speaking of course) in suburbia america.

steelcruiser · June 2004

coupe--that's exactly what I was trying to say. You just said it a heck of a lot better. I'd guess that most of us who post here are LC "nuts", have probably owned more than one, and don't consider this (mileage) an issue.

My observation here in So Cal is that LCs are still in demand. I don't see many advertised and no special blow out prices. When I do see one at a dealer, it's usually gone within a day or so. Same for used ones.

das_passat · June 2004

I'm considering a '98 LC to be used as the weekend family hauler. I work from home, so I don't have a commute. I also do not plan to do any off-roading in the car.

Considerations are price (mid/high $ teens) and safety (doesn't seem to be a problem with the tank-like LC).

1. What should I look for in a high milage (100K+ miles) LC?

2. I'm used to doing all my auto work myself (with the exception of tire mounting and alignments) but I'm concerned about cost of replacement parts.

3. Since I'm in Southern Cal, any possible issues buying one that's lived close to the ocean?

mobiweld · June 2004

3) I lived lived one block from the ocean for during college. I did have the truck garaged at night which makes a big difference, but I didn't have any rusting issues. My Wife (girlfriend at the time) parked her Jeep Cherokee outside and it's rusted quite nicely.

2) Parts cost what they cost. It aint a Taurus. So far with about 105,000 miles on a '98, the only "biggy" items were a water pump and the timing belt, both of which were labor-intensive and not particularly expensive parts.

1) As mine is at 105k, I'm not the best person to comment. My water pump was leaking and discovered during timing belt replacement. Aside from that, spark plugs, fluids, tires,....nothing but normal wear-n-tear items.

hank14 · June 2004

As you may have read from earlier posts, I bought a 99 last June with 116,500 miles on it. My primary considerations were:

1. A one owner vehicle with complete service records available.
2. The look and feel of the vehicle. It was extremely clean, and after some new tires, drove very well.

If you are familiar with maintenance, crawl under a few Landcruisers and look at the suspension and driveline. you'll be impressed how solid everything is put together.

As far as parts, look at Toyota Wholesale Parts at
www.toyota-parts.com. They are friendly, knowledgeable, efficient, and less expensive than dealer prices.

Just my opinion, but you might consider a 99 or newer, since 98 was the first year for the 100 series. I haven't seen more problems reported, but am always curious about the "kinks" being worked out. I suppose after 6-7 years, any kinks would have shown up by now. I saw one 98 on sale on ebay with about 216,000 miles on it.

Just one more thing- if you are fortunate enough to find one, do that beauty a favor and take her off road, at least every once in a while, at least in the snow or something. Every Landcruiser deserves it.

grantchstr · June 2004

Paris: The city council voted Tuesday to urge Socialist Mayor Bertrand Delanoe to consider banning SUVs, which have become popular in recent years and now make up about five percent of the French car market -- just below the western Europe average.

With apologies.

himcdonough · June 2004

So mine has failed at 68k. Can here the motor run etc. I am thinking I need to replace something. The antenna is curved and doens't extend and retract easily so I figured it just broke after a while. So how do I get to the motor?

hic · June 2004

It's a bit of a pain. First, Block the rear tires, apply e-brake and jack up the right front (as if you were changing the tire) and put a jack stand under the frame. Remove the tire for better access. Inside the wheel well you will see a plastic cowel (for want of a better word) that is held in place by a series of plastic screw-plugs and some hex bolts (at least for my '98, anyway). the screw-plugs are easy to remove with a phillips screw driver. Half a turn cc and then pop them out. They are easy to break though, so be prepared to replace one or two (buy a couple of spares when you get the new mast). Once all those and the hex bolts are off you can remove the cover and get some access to the mast motor. Next, unscrew the chrome ring on top of the antenna mast (on top of the fender where the antenna nests - This may require a special tool but if you are creaful you can make do without). Next, remove the antenna cable from the motor (careful here: Some unscrew or can be pried out but others can only be disconnected by partially disassembling the motor) and then remove the bolts holding the motor in it's mount. That should allow you to take the whole thing out. You can replace the whole unit (about $150 IIRC) or just the mast for less than half that. The mast replacement is also a pain but be patient - or ready to hand it off to a mechanic - and you'll be fine.

Good luck. My description is based off memory here and nothing more, so you may want to confirm with more authoritative resources before taking things apart.

HiC

njpaguy · June 2004

Just thought I'd share some info and observations after 3 years/94,000 miles of driving my 01 TLC:

Only engine-related issue: bearings failed on one tension pulley for serpentine belt (replaced under warranty).

Only other mechanical issue: seat catch/release for rear jump seat never quite worked properly from factory. Replaced assembly with new unit.

Changed axle/xfer case/trans fluid every 30,000 miles (Mobil 1). Also fuel filter and EGR valve every 30,000 miles.

Changed engine oil every 5,000 miles (Mobil 1 5W30; 0W30 for winter driving) w/K&N Oil Filters.

Lubed driveshaft grease fittings OFTEN.

Only 93 octane gasoline. 17+ mpg highway/average a bit over 15 mpg around town.

Added one bottle of Techron every 10,000 miles.

Best aftermarket item: TRD front & rear sway bars. The TLC was always a great handling vehicle. With the addition of these factory designed sway bars it transforms the TLC. Dare I say "nimble?" E-mail me for info on how to get them: njpaguy@mindspring.com. (NOTE: I'm not selling them; will provide contact information of dealer via e-mail).

Tire to avoid: Yokohama Geolandar G051. Reason: side walls are too soft. Makes the TLC driving characteristics constantly changable. It's a shame too, because they're extremely quiet, have a superb ride, and are excellent in the wet.

Excellent highway tire: Bridgestone Dueler H/P D680. Had to +1 (P285/70HR16) because not available in 275. Quiet, good ride, superb handling (especially in combination with the TRD sway bars). Maybe not able to match the Porsche Cayenne through the twisties, but again the word "nimble" can now be used to describe driving the TLC.

Looking forward to enjoying the next 94,000 miles just as trouble free. Hope you're enjoying the same.

Toyota Land Cruiser

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