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Toyota Land Cruiser



  • krn1krn1 Posts: 1
    I have an 03 LC with 14K miles, best car I have ever owned, but worst cd player also. I skimped and did not do the nav system, got the 6 CD changer set-up. After 9 months, the cd player constantly displayed an ERROR 4 message, and would not do anything. At first the message would go away upon restarting the car, then it started staying on for longer periods. My dealer here in St. Louis changed out the stereo three months ago, the new CD player worked for couple of weeks and now is doing the same thing, although the ERROR 4 message is now a permanent fixture. The dealer is "waiting to hear back from Toyota" regarding the message. They are going on two weeks. Any thoughts out there.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    There have been lots of 'bad' stereos that Toyota has put out, It is probably a flawed system and a bad face/changer. The remedy that I have seen that works 100% is to buy and aftermarket system. Its allittle on the pricey side depending on the sound quality that you are looking for, but removing the old system removes the problem.
  • ddw78ddw78 Posts: 16

    Sorry for the delay in answering... been traveling and not paying attention (so what else is new?) Yes, I had the starter replaced, and it cured the problem (for about $750.00 after whining a lot.)

    I'm still chasing an anoying rattle off idle to about 1500 rpm that sounds like a heat shield on one of the cat-cons. My friendly dealer has replaced the shields twice and and one cat con for free under the California Emissions warranty, but it still rattles off idle. It stopped for about a week after each repair attempt, though.


  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    DDW- mine just got out of the shop, same problem. I didn't see how tackling that starter replacement, with it located under the intake manifold, was a DIY job.
  • I'm coming up on 50,000 miles on my 2000 LC (4 years). The shocks don't seem to "bounce" when I try to test them, but the wheels seem to feel every little bump in the road lately.

    I'm trying to figure out if it's just because the tires are about due for replacement, or if the shocks might be on their last legs also.

    How long can I expect the OEM shocks to last?
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    OEM shocks can last up to 150,000 miles and still work effectively, most work to about 100,000-120,000 but there are in very few cases "Bad Batches" of shocks that will go out after about 20,000...
    The reason why you are noticing more bumps it because you car is at its peak and fully broken in and drives slightly differently, and also you are looking to find a flaw and when you are you notice allot more.
    Hope this helps
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    The question I have is, Do shocks gradually lose their effectiveness, or do they work like new until they leak, then completely go out at some point, and can you test this on the vehicle?

    In my opinion, if you have to remove the shock to check it and there is any significant mileage on them, they might as well be replaced.

    (I'm just looking for a good excuse to order a new set of OME shocks).
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    They do change over time like any kind of shocks do, they will not always drive like they did the day you drove it off the lot. Although they do not deteriate fast like Fords shocks, or other cheaper company s. They will stay effective until they leak, but the effectiveness will decrease as millage and driving conditions increase or get rougher. Like I said my shocks were 'effective' until 120,000 miles then the rear left leaked and I decided to replace them all. You should not have to replace a pair with 50,000 miles on them, they are completely broken in and feel differently but they still work.
  • Anybody encounter a squeek somewhere in the undercarriage when hitting small bumps in the road? Shocks, springs maybe. My dealer said it's not the shocks, but wants to lubricate the emergency brake cable. Does that sound right?

    It's a 2000 TLC with 63K, otherwise perfect.
  • tlcmantlcman Posts: 220
    sometimes the cable will hit the frame on small bumps making a 'clank' and maybe a squeak type sound. a squeak would possibly be a loose nut/bolt which would allow panels too move, I think you should try to pin point the squeak, does it happen on accel. or decel? turning left or right, A/C on or off, ect...
  • ironside7ironside7 Posts: 38
    I have a 98 that does the same thing. I've also noticed (from a pedestrian's vantage point) that other TLCs from 98 forward do the same thing, normally when going over small bumps in the road. I believe that this is a normal, albeit somewhat annoying, sound on the 100 series. If you fix it, please post the solution.
  • rich999rich999 Posts: 3
    I have decided to replace my original system with a new one. I like one of the Pioneer CD players. I can order it on-line for over one hundred dollars cheaper together with the Wiring harness and in dash kit. I am trying to find out how to dissemble my old system. I would appreciate it If somebody can tell me how to do it. Thanks.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Some things I've found to cause a squeak or rattle:
    loose running board mounts
    worn shock bushings
    loose muffler mount/brackets
    Crawl under your truck and tap and shake "things"

    If you just can't find the rattle or squeak after your best efforts--turn up the volume =))
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    I just had the starter replaced by Toyota on my 99 LC. There is another problem I am experiencing, however, which is apparently unrelated. Oftentimes when starting, especially cold, the engine will start, then stall shortly afterward. This can be avoided by pressing the accelerator to maintain 1200-2000 rpm immediately after starting. Once running for a few seconds, the problem goes away. It has never hesitated or stalled while driving, and this problem does not occur every time.

    Based on previous posts, I suspect it may be the throttle posiiton sensor, but am unsure. The problem with the starter not turning over has been corrected. Looking at my repair manuals, the instructions for TPS replacement include programming and adjusting with a Toyota hand held tester. The replacement sensor is $180.00 from Toyota Wholesale Parts. Has anyone tried this DIY?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Have you checked to see that all of your vacuum hoses etc are connected? Since this just started after your recent repair work, sounds like "something" might not have gotten re-attached?
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    Actually, Steelcruiser, both problems were there before the starter replacemant. I suspected they were unrelated, but now am certain since the starter not engaging has been corrected, but the idle problem at startup is still there. I know it could be any number of problems- sensors, theft deterrent system, etc, but with the history of TPS failures, thought that was a good place to start.
  • quixotequixote Posts: 4
    I am considering a new 04 Land Cruiser. Does anyone have experience with the a/c in very hot desert climates? Is the a/c adequate?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Hmmmm, hate to see you buy and replace components. Have you cleaned the throttle body? I've experienced the idle problem you mention, but on my 80 series. Throttle body cleaning helped. HTH helps some.

    As to #3865, I drove my '02 cross country last fall and the AC worked just fine thru the CA, AZ etc deserts on 40 (this was in early Sept and it was still plenty hot--100+ temps)
  • hank14hank14 Posts: 133
    Steelcruiser- what is HTH? I have used Techron, complete tune up, etc. What would you use to clean the Throttle Body? I guess you're right. I would prefer to wait until the TPS is diagnosed as being failed before replacing it.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Posts: 402
    Hank--guess I stuttered a bit with my reply. HTH=hope this helps. So I had hope this helps helps =)

    I used a little brake cleaner and old tooth brush on my 80. I didn't remove the TB to do it. I cleaned all areas I could reach within the port, then wiped out the residue with a rag and blew it out with the air compressor to make sure it was thoroughly dry. In my case, I had an accumulation of black residue (carbon?) (Also, use the compressor to blow out all the junk in the air cleaner). Maybe TLC man might have more suggestions?

    Fuel filter changed recently? Bad gas?

    Let us know how you make out. Hopefully, you can resolve this without replacing the $en$or =)

    Forget how many miles you've got on your 100 series, but I noticed the rough/low idle start at about 60K or so on my 80. Once I had it, it seemed to come back after about 15-20K more miles, then the cleaning routine above would "cure" it for another 15-20K miles.

    As for Techron etc, I remember umpteen years ago, I knew a guy who worked on exotics and he swore by Marvel Mystry Oil as an additive with every fill up
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