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Toyota Land Cruiser

18990929495101

Comments

  • peiomipeiomi Member Posts: 20
    I have an 04 LC with the Nav, has anyone done a direct connection of an Ipod or a sat radio. I have a SAT radio and tried the RF connection and it sounded horrible, the factory JBL system is bad enough. Any help is greatly appreciated as I would like to directly connect my Sat radio and Ipod using RCA cables or the like. Thanks in advance!
  • tseoshtseosh Member Posts: 26
    I have been watching prices, and I currently own a '95. If you are asking if you could get a 2001 model LC with under 100k miles for $12k, the answer is not one that's driveable. You could find a mint 1995-1997 80 series with under 100,000 miles for $12k or less. For prices look at some of the online classified sites and some of the other LC enthusiast sites- even Ebay.
  • travis351travis351 Member Posts: 1
    Wow, finally a great TLC forum. I purchased a 99 TLC with 87,000m in April. I absolutely love it. I am just about to roll over 100,000 miles and have my first issue. The brake pedal sticks on occasion. Usually after driving in the rain or long periods of highway travel without braking. It can be lifted with my foot to remedy the problem, so I assume there is some sort of booster that needs work. The only other notable thing i have noticed with the brakes is that the pads click once when braking for the first time in each direction.

    Also, I am shopping for a new set of tires. I cannot find better reviews than the reviews for the tires that came on it. Michelin LTX/MS. Any suggestions or is it a go for a straight up replacement. I haul a lot of weight on flat highways with repetitive right hand turns most of the time.

    Thanks in Advance,

    Travis
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    My 1991 Fj80 is valued (by my town - for personal asset tax purposes) at $9,000.......... :cry:
  • hheelloohheelloo Member Posts: 11
    I am thinking about purchasing either a 2002, 2003 or 2004 TLC.

    It seems there were a few cosmetic and horse power differences amongst these years, but no major changes 03 to 04 (except addition of back-up sensor)...

    Do you think I should get an 03, over an 04? an 02 over an 03? I would save a fair amount of money (e.g. approx $4K-$10K on 03 versus 04). However, I want to keep this vehicle for a looong time (and who knows how the previous owner cared for it!?).

    Please advise as to your production year preferences (for the years listed above), the correct price to pay (e.g. I have one Toyota CPO price on a black 03 LC for $38K), and the best way to acquire these great machine (e.g. CPO versus private owner).

    Also, what color do you think is best for city and mountains? Do you think the black looks to agressive ("bling-bling")? I have yet to find a used one in silver...

    Thanks, this will be my second Land Cruiser (previously owned 86 LC wagon)!
  • hheelloohheelloo Member Posts: 11
    Adding to that:

    Should I save money by instead purchasing a (newer) Sequoia??

    I am a singly guy, 32 years old, who during the week drives executive clients around LA, but weekends off-roads, skiis and/or rockclimbs...

    For the same price as an 03 LC I could get a newer Sequoia with more cargo space and better gas mileage.

    However, I would lose the (more) executive look and the (true) off-road burliness...

    Opinions? Does anyone know the Sequoia's TRUE off-road capabilities??
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    The 03 has a nicer dash board more like the GX470 and it also has a 5 Speed Automatic vs 4 speed automatic for the 02 model. This results in slightly smoother acceleration and a bit more milage. I found a really good 02 with 30K miles on it so I couldn't justify spending the extra $$ for an 03 even though I liked the dash better and really wanted the 5 speed auto. There is no difference between 03, 04, 05. The 06 models came out with a 280 bhp VVTI V8 and optional air suspension (same as in the LX470). This is what I will probably get next. Don't buy earlier than 02 because 02 is the first model to have the toyota 5 Star Safety system ie, (Skid Control, Traction Control, Brake Assist, etc etc..).

    Forget the Sequio mate. Leave that for the big family guy....
  • hheelloohheelloo Member Posts: 11
    That one dealer just called back:

    They want to close the deal on that CPO, black 03 LC with 30k miles for approx US$36K + tax/fees.

    Any input?
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    Does it have the NAV? Seems like a good deal if it does.
  • sampatchsampatch Member Posts: 1
    On our recent cross country trip to AZ we lost the bumper cap on the passenger side of our 1994 Land Cruiser. We are looking for advice as to where and how we might find a used one. We have already checked junk yard here in Mesa and have had no luck.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I recently threw stuff like that away when I put on an new ARB......so these things will be around......somewhere......Try Sleeoffroad, Man-A-Fre and if that doesnt work look on eBay?
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    This morning after the tlc spend a week in the garage without use, it started to make a buzzer sound, the indicator light appeared for a second (A/TP) light went ON but when I re-started the engine the light went off and the buzzer is still present. I checked all vital components and all fluids are normal. There is nothing wrong with the vehicle and there are NO active lights in the instrument panel either the only thing that won't quit is the annoying buzzing sound.

    Does anyone know what might be the problem? I have driven it in all modes already. I have checked page 97 on the Owners manual

    Thanks in advance to the TLC forum
  • coug81coug81 Member Posts: 1
    Any luck in finding out information about hooking up an ipod/SAT? I have tried RF and cassette for my ipod-both were failures. I have an 03 LC with Nav.
    Monster has a unit you replace the disc changer with but I am told that it does not work in LC with Nav.
    I am curious if you have found a solution.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out iPod - In your car! too.

    Steve, Host
  • squantossquantos Member Posts: 7
    Sorry to bother folks but I have a problem I'm unable to solve....... My 92 TLC FJ80 is eating alternators, factory and rebuilt, replaced batteries and positive and ground cables, had a recall modification done by the dealer that changes a wire gauge on the fuel pump relay block and the vehicle ran fine for a year or two. Now I have went through a couple of interstate batteries, two optima's a yellow top and a red top and 4 alternators. The extreme low power seems to be eating my accessories also such as the rear heater , a couple of blower fans for the AC . I have tried to follow all the electrics by hand looking for a worn or broken wire or lose connection, One mechanic added a ground from the alternator to the body yet the alternators just keep dying.........

    The body and interior are perfect on this ride and I got it cheap and really like it so selling is not something I want to do yet I'm close to tossing in the towel on this one.

    I did replace every fuse, and when I saw that the ECM used a 75 fuze I noted that there was no fuse there ? Possible that this used TLC was rigged to sell yet such a thing would have shown up in a shorter time I believe as I stated this all started a few years after I purchased it .......

    I am headed to the dealer in the next few days to get the diognestic service to see if they can give me an answer yet I figured's I'd ask here first...... thanks !
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I replaced my alternator with a rebuilt version (for a Fj80 (1991)) two or three years ago and had no problem, so I cannot help. But it appears that the useful life of an alternator is about 12 years on the evidence.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    If the alternator is fresh and the battery is fresh, if you suspect a grounding issue, it's not uncommon. The alternator casing should be grounded via a #4 cable DIRECTLY to the battery negative post. Typically, the alternator is connected to the bracket, bracket to block, block to chassis, and chassis to battery negative. So dumb it defies logic. Check resistance on the negative cable, and the positive cable. Make sure the lugs are compression crimped and soldered as well. You might locate a competent auto-electrical shop in your town. I would think that within a couple of hours, the problem could be identified and sorted out.
  • squantossquantos Member Posts: 7
    I'll give it a once over check the cable andc..... I'm not sure theres a ground off the alternator to the positive post but did add one to the body.... but if not will add or repair..... I'm a tinkerer by trade and my claim to fame is to know when to stop and ask before I muck something up .

    It's a great vehicle and has never given me grief cept what I discussed in my first post.

    Thanks Mobi......
  • squantossquantos Member Posts: 7
    Agree...I think it's a grounding issue as Mobiweld has stated . I have a 88 4X ToyTruck that has 200K Plus miles and original alternator. When I went through a few factory and rebuilt alternators I was putting my hammermonkeys kids through a semester at school with the costs.....

    Hopefully the grounding cable replacements will fix this......HOPE !

    Thanks for the reply !

    Stay safe !
  • squantossquantos Member Posts: 7
    Ok Mobiweld I added a new ground from the engine to the frame and from the alternator to the negitive post , AWG#4 cable w/ soldered and crimped cable . The alternator is still overcharging at 15 vs what I suspect is supposed to be about 12.5-13.5......at 2000rpms. When I let off the rpms the amp gauge drops really low....

    The battery is cooking, new about three months interstate and when I popped the caps the electrolyte was low . I topped that off with some distilled water.

    My question is this.... Is the internal regulator on the FJ80 (1992) ECM controlled ?

    I have popped the battery cables overnight to let the ECM reset if it does such with no joy. Gremlin still is present.

    I hate to drop coin on a new ECM yet I have traced every wire I can, checked for corrosion , continuity etc and still am at the point mentioned in the first of this reply.

    All good grounds, new ones added, new alternator and battery, overcharging and cooking accessories like rear heater, AC fan motor etc etc .....

    Thanks for taking the time with me on this BTW !

    Stay safe !
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    It's an internally regulated alternator and it seems be overcharging slightly which means that it's likely a "sense" issue. In other words, the regulator "reads" the battery and will set the charging rate based on that read. If the "sense" is reading .5v less than actual battery voltage due to a corroded connection or resistance, then it's going to overcharge to try to bring the battery up to 14.5v, or wherever the voltage regulator setpoint is. Focus on the sense connection. The sense connection should read actual battery voltage, less maybe .02 of a volt for resistance. My guess is you'll ready .05 to .08 of a volt less than battery which would then explain the 15v+ output from the alternator. See the following link for regulator info: http://www.wai-wetherill.com/products/partimage.cfm?wai_num=IN235
  • squantossquantos Member Posts: 7
    OK .....makes "sense"........!

    What I did this after noon was try a new eye on the problem with a toy tech in Pampa TX. We discovered it's undercharging at idle and as we discussed earlier overcharging at speed........

    Being a self proclaimed idgit in anything short of the basics in the area of troubleshooting electrics I'll print out your helpful info and give it to him in the AM. He was gonna call the tech reps in Houston in the morning so I gave him my number an am in wait mode. He was concerned about three phases of the internal regulator suspecting two were not playing properly.I really appreciate you taking the time to help me....Steak and cold cervesa at the Big Texan is on me for you and your tribe should ya pass through the Panhandle of Texas.Stay safe and thanks for the link , I'll go read it .......
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    This morning after the tlc spend a week in the garage without use, it started to make a buzzer sound, the indicator light appeared for a second (A/TP) light went ON but when I re-started the engine the light went off and the buzzer is still present. I checked all vital components and all fluids are normal. There is nothing wrong with the vehicle and there are NO active lights in the instrument panel either the only thing that won't quit is the annoying buzzing sound.

    Does anyone know what might be the problem? I have driven it in all modes already. I have checked page 97 on the Owners manual

    Thanks in advance to the TLC forum
  • cumbycumby Member Posts: 6
    I am considering purchasing an older model (mid-late 90's) LC with high miles because I have heard so much about how they hardly ever need maintenance and will run 250000 miles plus. I plan to keep it long term. My concern is the gas/maint costs. Are these expensive vehicles to own? Do they normally require much maintenance? I would love to hear from long time owners.

    Thanks
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I have a 1991 Fj80 purchased in 1990 right after I saw the (then) new model at the New York Auto Show.....now up to 122,000. It is a bit heavy on front brakes and gas (but only needs 87) but compared to other cars I have owned/own Volvos/BMWs for 20+ years - this car is very low maintenance and is low cost insurance-wise as well. My one recommendation is that you replace the front bumper with a non-winch ARB which you can get for around $600. A fender bender gave me the opportunity of putting on an ARB instead of a replacement bumper @ $3500+

    http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/parts_pictures/elsaswideangle.jpg

    http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/images/bumper/80nonwinch.jpg
  • cumbycumby Member Posts: 6
    grantchstr,

    Thanks for the advice. Im just currious, how long do you think you will keep your LC? From your experience, is it realistic to continue 200-250 thousand miles or more with little maintenance issues?
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    My Fj80 is still in great shape and looks like new; the engine has got many many miles left on it. I have seen these things clock up huge mileage in Australia and Africa - I expect to keep mine for another 15 years at least (as indicators just check out how many of the earlier FJs are still going strong). A major replacement item on the horizon for me would appear to be the catalytic converrtor/exhaust system..........but as my only fixed cost is $500 a year (insurance) I can cover the spread!
    Right now owing to the high cost of gas its a great time to pick up a low cost LC. The long useful life/low maintenance on these machines isnt priced into the resale values ........and when gas gets back to $1.50 (I can't wait for these hedge fund clowns to lose their shirts) you will be in clover.
  • nedzelnedzel Member Posts: 787
    Gas cost is pretty easy to estimate. Estimate out how many miles you drive a year. Your mileage will probably range from 12 to 18 mpg. Estimate gas cost (seems to be running $2.50 at the moment around here). Simple math will get you to $/year.

    The LC is a large, heavy vehicle and it certainly is not an economy car in terms of mileage.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Things to expect and look for would include:

    Brake pads/rotors (replace all approx $800)

    F/R axle seals (approx $1K)

    Starter (approx $400)

    Radiator ($500)

    PITA heater hose ($300)

    If these items have been taken care of recently on a high mileage vehicle, you should be fine. If not, be aware of the possibility of having to do some or all of these things.
  • cumbycumby Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for all the info. I know I would pay a lot more at the pump with a LC but Im trying to look at the overall picture. I WANTED one a long time ago but gave up on the idea because I thought it would bust my budget. But after looking at other vehicles, Im starting to wonder if it wouldnt be a good move for me. I am looking at replacing a very economical car with something bigger as a family vehicle. Ive looked at the minivans and other SUVs, but I have been fairly surprised at some complaints I have seen online. For example, the odyssey seems to have a lot of problems with the transmission. Seems to me for the same money I could get into a LC with high miles, but many more left on it, and hopefully avoid any unexpected repairs. It definitely fills all the other criteria I would want: safety, reliability, room etc... Has anyone else had any experience good or bad with repairs and maintenance?

    Thanks again
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I think the thing to do is to state how many miles you ACTUALLY would be doing per year. vs a more late model "economy car.

    So to cut to the chase, I did this with my college student daughter. For the amount of actual miles she drove per year, it was actuallyCHEAPER for her to keep and operate an owned 1994 TLC vs a new (at the time) 2004 Honda Civic VP.

    At 2.75 per gal (current prices) and 15,000 miles per year 15/37 mpg 1000/405 gal= $2,750 vs $1,114. But the yearly payment is $4,164 or so. So that is 2750 vs 5278.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Assuming some of the items I mentioned earlier have been addressed, most frequent maintenance item is brake pads on the 80 series. I recently sold my 80 series (I still have my 100 series) and I used TRD pads on it. I got about 35K on the front pads, but know of others who get only 10K or so on their (stock) pads.

    In 20+ years of driving and owning LCs, I have never been stranded or broken down in one :)
  • petersoncvpetersoncv Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Land Cruiser has developed this same problem. Did you ever figure out why the buzzer would sound when the parking brake lever was pulled?
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    I am out of town right now and I have restricted internet access. I will post the more details when I get home but if you want you can mjgh2001*aol.com and I can get you started on this long journey.
  • stephmay1stephmay1 Member Posts: 1
    against my wife wishes I went ahead and purchased a 2000 LC with 70k miles. i only drive about 10k a year and always wanted aLC but could never afford it. I bought it for 18k. As far as upkeep previous owner(friend) admitted he only got the oil chg and nothing else. What should I do to be proactive to make sure the car runs great. I am hoping to have have it along time. What is the avg mileage I can expect to get out of it. I want to make sure it lasts
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Recommended things to check:
    cooling system/flush
    brake fluid/pads/rotors
    transmission fluid
    transfer case/differential oil levels
  • mblocmbloc Member Posts: 2
    Had a great '93 FJ-80, all stock but with larger A/T Bridgestones and racks/running boards removed, loved it, but the transmission died at 180K miles a few months ago. I bought it for 18K in '99 with 92K miles on it, so I guess I got my money's worth, but I expected more. Probably put at least $700 a year in pure maintenance and repairs (not counting oil change, more like seals, brakes, etc.). All in all an expensive vehicle to own, but so comfortable, burly and (I thought) reliable. When it died, I bought an '05 Tacoma access cab 4x4. The Tacoma is...OK. But no Landcruiser. Doesn't have the height, the mass, the class...I think that anybody who's on this forum probably knows what I mean. So after about 6 months of ownership I find myself looking at used LC's of similar price range ($25K+) thinking - "why didn't I do that?" I'm pretty sure I'll sell the Tacoma and do it, but I gotta wait a little bit...maybe a year or two. I guess however long it takes to justify and/or convince my wife that it makes sense. At least long enough that it doesn't look like I'm bipolar or something.

    Landcruiser is more than a vehicle, it is a style. It does get under your skin.
  • mghmgh Member Posts: 43
    Petersoncv,
    my TLC problem was worse than yours I got the buzzer all the time and it was driving me crazy. Check out this link http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1998&make=Toyota&model=Land%20Crui- ser The symptoms are different, some affect the electric mirrors as well. I am very upset because my LC is out of warranty and to me is a failure from Toyota. This is only corrected for free if you had the problem during your warranty period. I learned that everybody will have this problem sooner or later.

    Toyota Technical Service bulletin February 22,2002
    CONTINUOS ALARM NOISE FROM COMBINATION METER
    98 - 02 Land cruiser

    Some 1998 - 2002 models year Land cruiser vehicles may experience a continuous chime/alarm noise emitting from combination meter after the vehicle has been started or the key has been turned to the "run" position after the bulb check has been completed.

    The Cowl Side Junction Block was upgraded from January 2001. For further improvement, the Wire Harness (Instrument Panel Integration) has been upgraded to correct above condition.

    All 1998 to 2002 Land cruiser produced within the VIN range.
    STARTING VIN - ENDING VIN
    All 1998 - JTEHTO5J#12007563
    JETEHT05J#12007564 - JTEHTO5J622020543

    YEAR PREVIOUS PART NUMBER - CURRENT PART NUMBER - PART NAME
    1998 - 2000 - 82733-60040 - Same - Junction Block, Block Cowl Side
    2001 - 2002 - 82733-60041 - Same - Junction Block, Block Cowl Side

    Applicable warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles. ONLY

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------------------

    Look under the steering column left side panel just above the foot rest. The lot number may be partially covered with some wires.

    Non Updated lots:
    ####9#: 1999 Production
    ####0#: 2000 Production

    Updated lots:
    ####1#

    Example of lot number part that needs replacement 804005

    The part retails higher for the 1998 to 2000 models. go to http://www.toyota-parts-dealer.com/parts.htm And enter the part number on steep 2 and select make.
    According to the bulletin this is a 2.5 hour job. The dealer will charge you a full MSRP price on the part.

    TOYOTA Does not stand behind their screw ups.

    ADVICE
    I will advice all in this forum if you have extended warranty to complain even if you don't have the problem right now because you will be paying for this expensive part sooner or later. Just tell them that you hear a buzzer and don't rest until they replace the defective part but first check the lot numbers on the part itself because you will look like a fool if you don't.

    MG
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    but the transmission died at 180K miles a few months ago.

    I would be interested in hearing from other owners - I think this is an unusual circumstance and that the Fj80 transmission should have a longer life than this....?
    Maybe as you bought it second hand it had actually more miles on it and/or the transmission had not been maintained on schedule?
  • harmanharman Member Posts: 2
    I have 94 Land Cruiser with 93k and since the temp dropped
    it seems to start off in second gear first thing in the morning. If I put the shifter in "L" it starts off normal.
    Once I drive a mile or so it's fine. I had the trans fluid changed about 4k miles ago. I used the ECT button for about a month before the problem started, but the weather was still warm. ( may be unrelated )

    If anyone has had this problem or any suggestions I would like to hear.

    Thanks
    WH
  • mblocmbloc Member Posts: 2
    I think it is unusual, and unfortunate. One morning I put it in drive and it just wouldn't go. It would slip into drive after being revved up. I took it to the Toyota dealer (big mistake) and they spent days trying to diagnose it and actually did some (expensive) work on it but didn't solve the problem and the ultimate conclusion was that it needed a new transmission. They ballparked that at about $8K, I'm sure it could be done for much less. And it drove fine once it got into gear, so who knows, it may have been usable like that for years.

    They did remark that it was extremely rare for a cruiser of that year and mileage to have a serious transmission problem. Which is nice to hear unless it's your rig that's dying.

    I bought the truck with 92K on it, it seemed like it had not been maintained well prior to that, but I took good care of it. So who knows.
  • tmedematmedema Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone received close to invoice pricing for a
    2006 Land Cruiser? If so, how much and what part of the country do you live?
    The closest I've found was around $54400 plus tax, title and license in the Philadelphia suburbs. My guess is that I'll have to wait for the August/September clearance.
    Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you
  • eagle63eagle63 Member Posts: 599
    Hey guys, as the so called "tech guy" in my family, I've been recruited to help my dad set-up the Bluetooth feature on his '05 Landcruiser with his phone. I've read through the manual many times and am stumped. Here's the problem:

    If you press the "Info" hard button to the left of the screen, and then the "Telephone" button on the screen, you should then see a "settings" button on the screen which allows you to add your phone, initiate pairing, etc. The problem is that the settings button on my dad's LC is disabled. (greyed-out) I can't seem to find any way to get around this, as you need to go into the settings menu to add your phone for the first time.

    Additionally, as I've been messing around with the navigation system, I've found that quite a few of the buttons in those screens are disabled as well. (can't add a waypoint, delete, etc)

    It's like the whole system is in a "view" mode instead of "edit" mode for some reason. I've called my dealer (and other dealers too) and no-one seems to have the first clue as to how the navigation computer seems to work. I hate to have my dad bring it in for service since he lives a long way from a dealership, especially since I don't think it's "broken", rather there's probably a setting or code that needs to be entered somewhere to resolve this.

    Anyway, I thought I'd check with you all first in case there's something really obvious that I'm missing. Thanks!!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Are you stopped and in park when you're trying to make these changes?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may also find some help in the Bluetooth Technology discussion.

    tidester, host
  • rduffrduff Member Posts: 1
    Don't know how unusual for the tranny to go at 180k. But for reference I have a '93 with 238k on it and it's going strong. Bought it 3 1/2 years ago with 185k for $8000. My wife has a 2000 LC and I'd rather drive the '93. Trying to figure if its worth redoing the leather interior and keeping since it has so many miles. Really love the truck.
  • eagle63eagle63 Member Posts: 599
    Steelcruiser, I think that's it! The whole time I was working on this was while I was the passenger as we were on a drive - so no the vehicle was NOT in park. I just called my dad to have him turn his rig on (while keeping it in park) and see if some of these buttons are now enabled - and from what he's telling me it sounds like they are.

    On the one hand I feel like an idiot, on the other... I have to say that I'm a bit perplexed by this "feature." Obviously the intent is to minimize driver distraction, although if anything it makes it worse - at least for me it would since I would be driving along frustrated and swearing as I try to get stuff working. Oh well.

    Thanks for the help!!
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    I went through a similar period of puzzlement when I tried to play a dvd on the screen of my 05. The buttons to play it were not enabled despite being in park. Then I re-read the section in the manual and noted that they require the vehicle to be in park with the emergency brake on (!) to do this. I lifted the brake handle and ....voila!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Toyota and other car makers have been forced to go overboard on the safety issues thanks to all the lawsuits. You can read Darwin awards etc to see just how little common sense a lot of people have. OTOH, with the inclusion of more electronic convenience items and gadgets on our vehicles, I think the opportunities for driver distraction do increase, so the warnings and associated requirements to be in park, e brake on etc may not be all bad. Anyway, glad you seem to have solved your problem.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I regrettably now cannot garage my car so its outside at night in winter. Is there a way of preventing ice formation on windshields? I would guess that maybe a simple tarp would work but are there any sprays that would alleviate the problem?
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