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Taurus/Sable Starting or Stalling Problems

2

Comments

  • mschmalmschmal Member Posts: 1,757
    Just a theory.

    Mark
  • dryachtdryacht Member Posts: 2
    AFTER REVIEWING MULTIPLE WIRING DIAGRAMS AND TALKING AROUND WITH MULTIPLE SOURCES I PURCHASED FROM A U PULL IT JUNK YARD FOR #50.00 AND REPLACED THE PCM LOCATED BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX AND IT NOW WORKS FINE. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WEATHER IT'S A FEDERAL OR CALIFORNIA PCM WHEN DOING THIS AND 94 AND 95 ARE THE SAME AS IS A SEDAN OR STATION WAGON AND A SABLE AND TAURES ARE ALSO IDENICAL BUT MUST BE THESE TWO YEARS ONLY.

    KEEP IN MIND I HAD SPARK,FUEL PRESSURE,INJECTOR PULSE PRIOR AND CRANKED FINE AND WOULD NOT START. ALSO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST 10 VOLTS MINIMUM WHILE CRANKING AS IT WILL NOT RUN WITHOUT.

    PRIOR TO REPLACING THE PCM THE FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK AND THE CCRM MODULE ON THE RADIATOR SUPPORT WERE ALSO REPLACED AND HAD NO EFFECT. THE FACT THAT THE FUEL PUMP AND RADIATOR FAN NEVER SHUT OF WITH THE KEY IN THE RUN POSISTION WAS THE CLUE FOR ME AFTER REVIEWING THE WIRING DIAGRAM. HOPE THIS HELPS IN SOME WAY
  • bsbearbsbear Member Posts: 1
    Replaced with used engine, checked all wires, cleaned all grounds, have 12 v to positive on coil. 12 volts to red pin in distributer plug but no spark or minus coil voltage.
  • samanthac39567samanthac39567 Member Posts: 1
    Strange. I have a 2003 Ford Taurus SES that I purchased in July. Yesterday on the way home from work the engine sounded funny like it was loosing power and then my alternator light came on. I did make it home (a ten minute trip) and it didn't die completely. The only thing that might be causing it is my gas cap is sort of broken and it won't make a complete seal on the gas and I am going to buy a new gas lid and see if that fixes the problem. I checked the oil and it is fine and the engine is not overheating at all. I cranked it up this morning and cranked no problem just engine sounds weak like it is loosing power. I am going to take it to autozone later and let them put it on the diagnostic machine and tell me what it might be.

    Let me know if you find out anything else about this problem and I will let you know whether the gas lid fixes my problem.
  • dgwall1dgwall1 Member Posts: 1
    TAURUS 2002.

    When I get near the car and press the UNLOCK on the remote and it DOESN'T work that time, and I manually open the door, get in and then try to start the car - nothing happens until I try it about 3 to 4 times (no fuel pump sound, no lites, no cranking, not anything!). IF the remote unlocks the car, it works normally. One symptom is that NO LITES show on the instrument panel until that 3rd or 4th try. If the lites come on, then the car will start.

    Another symptom, sometimes it tries to stutter and die while driving (rarely) and I haven't noticed whether the lites are on or not - NOT with 3 dozen cars behind me going 60 mph!!! I just try to get it started again as quickly as possible. That symptom may be related - don't know.

    Checked the battery terminals. When I try to diagnose the problem, of course it won't fail right then. When its where I can't take a chance to just diagnose the problem, it seems to fail.

    The leading symptom is the failure to UNLOCK with the remote. When that happens, then I am sure it is not going to start until I try it 3 or 4 times. Also, I never hear the fuel pumpt and absolutely NO LITES will come on until the next time that I start to try it (3 or 4) then the lites come on and it will crank and start.
  • 1worrieddriver1worrieddriver Member Posts: 3
    94 taurus I am having the same problem with mine. It stalls out. It won't start for a period of time. I have had the control module replaced. It still does it. I can't figure it out. :confuse: :lemon: now it is smoking and smells as if something is burning. The temp. gauge is normal
  • kpark214kpark214 Member Posts: 4
    I am wondering the best way to replace a 2001 ford taurus spark plugs? I have done it spark plugs in the past but only on a 4 cylinder. I don't know how to go about changing the back three on this car however. Could someone please give some good details on how to do this as my car is studdering due to needing new plugs.
  • taurusidiottaurusidiot Member Posts: 5
    Hi thom102,
    I have the same car and the same problem. The mech told me the engine was shot but I don't believe him. I suspected the timing chain also until I realized it had a 'chain' and not a timing BELT.
    If you find an answer please let me know!
    Mine has plenty of gasoline pressure and all the spark plugs fire (I pulled each one and checked 'em). When I try to start it, it almost seems to want to start then it goes back to just a fast cranking.??? Putting oil in the cyls did not increase the compressions. I had NEVER had any problem starting this car before (have a great 'Optima' battery) and charging system works great.
    I'm confused with the low compressions though. I feel it is either bad head gaskets, bad /warped head(s) or stranger then that, that the valves aren't closing properly???
    Since all this came about very suddenly makes it evan more confusing. The engine only has 35,000 miles on it. It was put in new in 2002.
    The OBDII data link on mine has never worked so I can't get any signals from it.
    So if anyone out there has an idea, please let us in on it.
    Thanks
  • bakedpuppybakedpuppy Member Posts: 2
  • bakedpuppybakedpuppy Member Posts: 2
    car starts fine but when you give it gas it stutters and if you push the pedal farther it stalls out iget no trouble codes off self test, i can feather the pedal and keep it running but when rpms go up engine acts like its got a govenor on it only allowing it to a low rpm if anyone has an idea any help would be appreciated
  • akr7064akr7064 Member Posts: 2
    My 2003 Taurus 3.0 Duratec has 30,000 miles on it and I am having the STALLING deal when it gets WARM UP!And I have to let it sit about 30MINS. Before it will RUN! I can drive 1 hr. or as much as I want,turn it OFF and then I have to WAIT about 30 to 35 mins. And it will be Fine!If any body knows what is going on!Do TELL!!
  • sevendayitchsevendayitch Member Posts: 1
    1993 Merc Sable 3.8V6. Weard as it may sound, it starts and runs great for 6 days. On the 7th day, it will turn-over but will not fire/start. First time this happened I plugged in a simple ODB tester. Nothing important came up. Tried starting and it fired right up. Ran great for 6 days, on 7th day would not fire. repeated the testing and it fired right up. It did this for 5 weeks consistently. Finally got tired of the hassle and took it to the ford dealer. They replaced the fan/temp sensor because the fan would run when you first turn on the ignition. They found some minor corrosion on some wires and charged me $350. Drove it home but than went on vacation for 9 days. Would not start after I got home.
    ANYBODY know what is going on?? This seven day cycle has me stumped. Also, the 7th day when it won't start has been on a Sunday. True! Go figure. Is there something in the computer that happens after 7 days. I figure every time I run the dianogists it would reset the computer. After the 5th week of this, for some reason I could not run the diagnostics to get it to start.
    It is a great car otherwise. Maybe it just has the "seven_day_itch" and wants to retire. Or maybe it is Jewish. HELP!!
  • akr7064akr7064 Member Posts: 2
    I was getting BAD GAS at my service station so I swichted to a differ, station! Now every thing is FINE!! I hope this HELPS some one!!
  • thegr8fanthegr8fan Member Posts: 1
    I had this same problem. It is common among the taurus, evidently, but I went through ECM, Dist. Cap/rotor, Ignition module, etc. before I found the answer on autozone's forum. Evidently the ford taurus fuel pump get's vapor locked and will stall out and have a no start till you wait awhile and then it will restart. You have to replace the fuel pump. This is very common from the 89-96 year. It occurs frequently when you are doing multiple stops in a hot environment. Which is what mine did. I could drive it around town fine, but it would give me problems in heavy traffic, and I live in Texas. If the fuel pump has some milage or years of wear and haven't been replaced it is very susceptable to this problem.
  • psiborg42psiborg42 Member Posts: 1
    ford taurus and mercury sable have a relay box (around 93'- 98') when it fries the 10v 47uf capacitor will not start, nor can you read the computer with an OBDII reader.
    It is located under the radiators protective cover (and looks like a cars computer)
    I am still looking for the cause of the blown cap on the one I am working on, so I will have the FIX for you guys as soon as I can, but this will give you a place to put the band-aid till I find where the leg is broke.
  • larry7272larry7272 Member Posts: 1
    I also have had the same problem. I own a 2007 Ford Taurus with 49,000 miles. I was driving for about 20 minutes for both of my stalls. Both stalls came from accelerating from a stop of a red light turning left. HELP!!!
  • captcobaltcaptcobalt Member Posts: 1
    My anti-theft light will flash a few times and the car will stall at a stop. It will restart but this is very aggravating. I have had the throttle plate cleaned, the ignition switch replaced ( by the dealer of course who said this was the problem), bought a new key and no results
  • pvtcarlswifepvtcarlswife Member Posts: 2
    I have an issue with my 1998 Sable, unemployed so hoping it is something i can fix, but for once, i have no idea where to start.
    about a month ago, i started having starting issues, the car would start fine sometimes, and then at times, i would shut if off and it would not start again, it would turn over strong, but not start, we would get a jump and it would start and run fine. So i assumed maybe it was the battery, we took it and had it checked, they said the negative terminal was loose, put on a new one and for a few weeks i once again had no problems, then the same thing started happening again, So i took it back to where i got the battery, they tested it AGAIN and said, it may be the alternator, i do not think so, since it seems to turn over well.
    Anyway, the first guy again tightened up the negative terminal and after my car would not start at ALL, so they went ahead and put in a new battery, still no start, finally someone opened the fuse box under the hood, did something with one of the relays, and it started, we drove home, shut it off, and it has not started since, not with a jump, not on its own, BUT it still turns over fine.
    Any ideas on what this could possibly be? when i was getting a jump to see if we could start it, i did notice that the negative terminal was STILL loose, where the 2 wires went into the connector i could loosen the bolts with my fingers, and one of the 2 wires was not in the terminal at all anymore, this is how loose it had become, i fixed that, hoping.. that would solve my issue, but it didnt.
    ANY ideas on where to start would be great, i can not take it anywhere, as it does not start, Thanks!
  • sarge79sarge79 Member Posts: 1
    MY 01 TAURUS WON'T IDLE WHEN IT IS FIRST STARTED COLD. I CAN STAY IN THE CAR AND RUN THE RPM'S AT 2000 AND IT WILL GO...ANY LOWER AND IT SOUNDS LIKE IT'S FLOODING - SPUTTERING AND WANTING TO STALL...THERE ARE TIMES IT WILL HANG AT HIGH IDLE FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS AND THEN DROP ALL THE WAY TO 750 AND ALL THE ISSUES START. ONCE IT WARMS UP NO PROBLEMS I HAVE TRIED FRESH FUEL, ADDITIVES, THROTTLE CONTROL VALVE, PFE SENSOR REPLACED, VACUUM LINES CHECK CLEANED MAS AIR SENSORAND EGR, CHECKED SPARK PLUGS...I'M STUMPED ANYONE WITH IDEAS...PLEASE
  • ernieterniet Member Posts: 2
    try the coolant temp sensor
  • ernieterniet Member Posts: 2
    must have jumped time
    this explains the no compression state
    change chain and any bad gears
    (or could be a tensioner)
  • jeff140jeff140 Member Posts: 1
    I recently had a similar problem. Found that I had a cracked vacuum line elbow (plastic). Car would start hard in the cold and would not idle with out reving the engine. After the engine warmed the problem seemed to get less severe. I also noticed that upon initial startup the brake pedal felt very stiff. This aslo went away as the engine warmed up. (I think as the short length of vacuum hose warmed and expanded it put enough pressure on .the elbow to seal up the crack The elbow that I'm refering to is directly above the tranny dipstick in the main vacuum line going to a small distrubution box serving the brake booster and other items.

    Listen for a hissing noise in that area when the car is first started.

    Jeff
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Member Posts: 108
    Mass Air Flow sensor, unplug it clamp off hose and if it run good, the MAF sensor is bad.
  • darkfyre07darkfyre07 Member Posts: 12
    I have a friend that owns a 2001 Ford Taurus Sedan, and while she was driving the check engine light came on as did the oil light, and the car died and wouldn't start back up... any ideas as to what it might be?
  • taurusidiottaurusidiot Member Posts: 5
    Erniet (1-6-10)
    Thanks for answering. You are the first one I've read that even comes close to my question, much less an answer.
    I believe you are right. That is exactly what I suspected after my tests and also when the so called "mechanic" said my engine was SHOT. I just couldn't believe an engine that new and running as good as it had would quit so suddenly.(with NO noises or warning(s) etc.) BTW that "mechanic" is the head of the service dept. at a good size shop here. See what I have to contend with? And I thought the big cities were bad haha.
    Do you have any idea what it might cost to get this fixed?
    It's a nice car and I'd like to get it going again. This Obama Oppression though has gotten me into a "not as sound" financial situation. In the spring I could probably do it myself???
    Thanks for your reply....Marv
  • cindyinlccindyinlc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Ford Taurus SE with 56K on it. It will not start on the first try. It turns over and dies. If I give it gas it will stay on. I went to Auto Zone to test the battery. It is fine but they said the alternator was low on amps. Any suggestions? I do not want to get robbed at the repair shop as this is my first Ford Taurus.

    Thanks....
  • sable1997sable1997 Member Posts: 1
    Jeff,
    The vacuum lines in my 1997 Sable are broken. Where do I find the replacement part? Appreciate your help.
  • phoenix68phoenix68 Member Posts: 1
    Starts Ok, runs high idle as normal, then drops to 1,00rpm for s few seconds, then drops even more and becomes rough. Vaccum shows 20-21 at 1,000 rpm but then it drops to 12-15 flux as it turns rough for about 5-10 secs and dies. Starts easy. This will happen either cold or warm.
  • 94taurus94taurus Member Posts: 2
    I have an intermittent problem starting my 94 taurus wagon with 116k miles. Sometimes when cold, the starter cranks, but does not catch. A strange fix that we have figured out is to turn the ignition to on. When the problem occurs, the fan turns on at this point (it is not supposed to turn on during the ignition process). When the fan turns off after it has turned on, then the car will start. Once warm, the car starts fine. We have checked the fuel check valve, the various computers/electronics, the fuel injectors, the spark plugs, and haven't been able to find anything. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
  • 94taurus94taurus Member Posts: 2
    I have had the same problem, but haven't found a solution. I don't think it's the battery. I do have a temporary fix that works for me -- see my post under taurus starting problems. Good Luck!
  • pvtcarlswifepvtcarlswife Member Posts: 2
  • mikesheldonmikesheldon Member Posts: 7
    There must be a problem with your spark plug.It must be gaining moisture and hence don't tend to start at the first time.Also check the fuel pump as this could also be creating problems for your car to start.
  • susanleuang51susanleuang51 Member Posts: 1
    my daughters 2004 taurus has been towed to the dealer ship 4 times in the last couple of weeks. they replaced the fuel pump twice. returned to us women each time saying its fixed,or they can't find anything wrong with it.dies on my daughter everytime she runs around in it.any ideas? mas? catalytic converter? what are these idiots missing at the ford service center?
  • fritz1699fritz1699 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Sable, 90,000 mles, increasingly getting harder to start when engine is cold. At first I had to crank 2 long times to get it started. Now it takes 3. Once the engin is hot, I fires just fine with 1 short crank. I do have a check engine light, code indicates the loss of a vacuum seal to the gas tank (P1451). However warning light came on 6 months, The problem starting has happened recently. Any Ideas? I want to get to the bottom of it before winter hits. If left alone, I beleive the problem will get worse and worse until it wont start at all
  • mmtc2011mmtc2011 Member Posts: 1
    I belive i can help you on that issue. i have a 2001 Ford Taurus S.E.S. and it did the exact same thing o me. okay one your fule pump is going out. its a costly item . mine was done at the original place i got my car but cost me over $800. They need to pull the fuel pump and test it to make sure it works . The fule pump is not putting out the needed pressur eof fule that is required for your car to accelerate.
  • tmathews1tmathews1 Member Posts: 2
    edited April 2011
    ok this has happened 4 times now i would drive somewere car running great shut it off and it would not start back up again it would roll over and fire acted like it was low on gas... it had gas it had great gas pressure had good spark on all 6 plugs... then like a hour later it would start back up the last time it happened when it started it ran really rough until i go past 30-40 mph then smoothed out so its still miss fireing and it is still running rough today... every time it happened it would start up with a bad lifter tick until 5 min or so past happened everytime and that car has never had a lifter tick.... no check engine light even wile running rough and yes the light does work it comes on when i turn key on my buddy had a 200 dollar computer code tester thing it came back with bad o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 2 but ive had them go bad before and the vehicle has always started... f fuel pump is running with lots of pressure good spark clean air filter just done a tune up plugs wire ect. i com from a family were weve always worked on our own vehicles i know a little my dad knows a little my dad brother knows allot of a little i guess we know as mutch as anyone else would know that has never seen this problem the vehicle is a 2001 ford taurus se with the 3.0 v6 and i cannot figure this problem out tommorow im changin the temp sensor ive seen that happen before that go bad and have running problems so ill let ya know errrrrrrrrrrr soooo frustrating.... thx guys plz reply...
  • tmathews1tmathews1 Member Posts: 2
    what happened to the days were if u had gas spark and air ure vehicle was running...
  • don350don350 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 taurus with the same problem any ideas did youir figure it out??
  • somegrlsomegrl Member Posts: 1
    I might be beating a dead horse, but, I've been having the same stalling/starting issues with my 95 Ford Taurus. Recently I took it to the mechanic, the fuel pump was shot, as I had guessed, so I had it replaced. This has resolved the starting issue, as previously when it sat for more than 6hrs it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine, but I can still feel it wanting to stall out when the car is in drive, idling. I know the car needs a tune up badly, it still has all spark plugs and wiring, any other ideas? I just dropped $375 on the fuel pump replacement, I'd like to try to keep this to as much of a minimum as I can.
    Thanks.
  • ez49ez49 Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar problem. I replaced the starter, the battery, the battery terminals, the rotor, and distributor cap, the ignition control module was tested and tested good. Does anyone have any suggestions? It has no spark from the distributor to the plugs.
  • uvtimeuvtime Member Posts: 1
    Your coilpack might be bad. At night, try starting the car with the hood open and check to see if there is any electrical arching at the coil pack or spark plug wires.
  • ez49ez49 Member Posts: 2
    I did check the cables, and found that arcing occurring.

    However, the car did overheat once before it died. Someone told me that when the engine overheated a crack may have occurred, which maybe what is causing the engine to loose compression and not turn over. I don't know where the crack may have occurred. Does anyone know how to check this? Were would the crack occur...in a seal, on the engine block (compression cylinder)....

    Thanks.
  • charger3charger3 Member Posts: 210
    Sounds like your injectors are leaking you shut the car off they leak the engine is flooded it will finally start. Drive it at 30 to 40 cleans the plugs off and it runs good. And for anyone that has a bad check valve in the pump the pressure is good but the gas leaks back into the tank and you have to crank and crank to get it started or turn the key on for five seconds to run the pump and then turn off and on again for five seconds after the 3rd try you crank it. It usually starts right up then you know your pump is bad
  • stark1990stark1990 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a used 2007 Taurus with 56k on it. I've had it for a month now and I've taken it back to the dealership twice now because it keeps stalling. I don't know what causes it but the RPMs dip lower than normal and thats what it sounds like before it stalls. I've noticed it only does it when it's hot, the AC is running. When it stalls, the gauges on the dash all twitch for a while. I try pushing the gas after it does this but nothing happens. Sometimes after it twitches the gas gauge reads that there is more gas in there than before. I once had almost half a tank then it stalls, when I turned it back on it read a full tank. It doesn't matter how much gas I have when it happens. The dealership has cleaned the Throttle body, but that didn't help. I've tried recreating the situation but I can't find out what exactly causes it. It happens when I'm at a stop or going less than 20MPH.

    If anyone has ANY information on this problem, please help. I would really like this problem fixed!
  • partsman7partsman7 Member Posts: 1
    I would suspect the IAC (idle air control) motor. Fords have an idle issue that will cause them to die when pulled up to a stop sign sometimes you hear a sound like the horn honking, thats the air valve shutting off when it should stay open, it is caused by carbon generally and is best just to change the IAC. usually 3 screws easy access.
  • ken176ken176 Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same thing happening to my 07 Taurus!! Have you figured it out yet???
  • stark1990stark1990 Member Posts: 2
    No, not yet. But they are finally getting somewhere. They let me drive it with the flight recorder for a few days. It stalls randomly so I didn't know when it would happen, but it seemed to happen after I filled up with gas and topped off. They took the flight recorder with the info on it and talked to Ford. I'm taking my car in next week and they are going to do some tests on it and once I figure out what it was/is I will post it on here.
  • sablechappsablechapp Member Posts: 1
    I'm hoping someone can help me with my '93 Mercury Sable (V6 3.8L GS) It started today with no problems and I drove it to school and back home before going back to school. Two hours later, I try to start it and it clunks when trying to turn over. After a few times of the clunking, it starts but idles very rough and when I drove forward it was like I was driving over short bumps. Worse yet, in the headlights my brother sees a trail of fluid of some sort from the driver side, but no luck finding leaks tonight. Any help is appreciated.
  • jrowljrowl Member Posts: 2
  • jrowljrowl Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Mercury Sable with a 3.8L that will not start. I have spark and car will run on starting fluid. Thought fuel pump at first but system has plenty of pressure. After checking the injectors I relized I do not have any injector pulse. Replaced the CCRM but still no injector pulse. Does anyone have any ideas?
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