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Taurus/Sable Starting or Stalling Problems
equalizer245
Member Posts: 1
in Ford
I just got a 1995 ford taurus with 87,000 miles on it from a guy near me the car is in perfect shape the motor has been replaced in it and the motor has about 75000 miles on the motor care runs great until it gets to 1/4 of a tnak of gas then it acks as if it is going to stall out then gose back to normal the same thing if u give it more gas the worse it gets it can put in fuel till it gets 1/2 a tank and it runs fine i have tried fule cleaners and all still dose it any 1 have any ansers ?
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Seems this problem should be pretty simple to diagnose by an expert. Maybe it is time to get it into an experienced mechanic. Tauri/Sable have been around long enough and with enough of them on the road, that most good mechanics have probably seen every problem at least once!
About a year ago, my then-husband was driving the car and said the water pump went out (the bearings). He parked it at a friend's house immediately and it sat for a few months; then we towed it home. He put a new water pump in it and ever since then, it will turn over continuously but will not crank. It sounds as if it is out of time or cannot quite get enough fuel. I have been told it could be a myriad of different things; crank sensor, camshaft sensor, timing, fuel pressure....but none of it started until the incident with the water pump. He says it did not overheat, and the oil looks fine. Also the air filter has been removed (not sure how long it has not had one) and the mass airflow sensor is pretty well clogged.
Any suggestions on what to look for?
dickiedo
Could be other things causing the problem, though, such as a fuel pump. I have not had this with my 2000 Taurus, but my neighbor has had two fuel pumps replaced, the second one soon after the first, which was free. Could also be injector problems, clogged air filter, or probably a number of other issues.
Your post number 3 asked about whether there was a fuel filter and I answered it. I am not mixed up. I believe you may be, however.
Thank you very much
Susan
unfortunatly i don't have much time i need to decicide what to do this morning...
HELP !!!!!!
I WEN'T TO PICK UP MY NEWSPAPERS TO DELIVER AND WHEN I TRIED TO START MY CAR AGAIN I WAS UNABLE TO START THE CAR LET ALONE EVEN TURN THE KEY , IT'S LIKE THE COLLUM IS FROZE UP. NOTHING WORKS, TIRES WON'T MOVE , I HAD TO GET A RIDE HOME AND NOW I DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO
My car came with a extra security system where you have to push a button on a remote before starting the car. This was installed at the dealership but it's a third party component. Only problem was that the system was flaky so it sometimes wouldn't let me start the car - it completely disabled ignition. After 5 year this annoying feature became an everyday problem, so I finally spent lots of time and money to get it out of my car. By now I'm living in another city so the local Ford dealer didn't know what was going on and, since it was an intermittent/random problem, my mechanic couldn't figure out what was going on. Finally I took it to an alarm specialist and they were able to find it after some guesswork.
Finally, the solution was to buy a $8 STARTER RELAY from the local auto parts store and replace the one that was inside the fuse box (next to the battery). The old non-FORD starter relay is black with no brand or markings of any kind, just like the remote control. So, I don't know what company makes this security system but basically the unknown black remote is supposed to activate the unknown starter relay.
Now that the problem is fixed, I don't need to worry about pushing an extra button to activate my car (like most new cars it has a regular alarm and a chip inside the key so this extra security system is redundant and useless) - and the car starts every time!
All it cost me was $70 for the diagnosis and over $2000 in repairs for other things my mechanic found while trying to diagnose the starting problem which we could not reproduce. Oh, and the $8 starter relay from the auto parts store which took me a minute to replace. However, you can save a lot of money and time if you just buy the part and replace it yourself before you take the car to the dealer or your neighborhood repair shop.
Carroll :confuse:
The labor for replacing the alternator in your car suggests that they have to take off some other parts to get to the alternator. It's just more work. Call around maybe you can get a better rate.
Regarding alternators sold in the aftermarket. In many ways you get what you pay for. I have a car of which I replaced the original alternator on. I bought an aftermarket replacement alternator at Pep Boys several years ago and installed it myself. The replacement alternators only seem to last a year or so. So I take it out of the car, drag the broken alternator down to Pep Boys and they bench-test it to show that it has gone bad, and then they give me another one. Well I am now on the fourth replacement alternator, and I've only had this car for seven years.
If I were to do it all over again, I'd find somewhere that sold General Motors alternators or alternators rebuilt to original GM specs.
So the moral of this long story is... That the cheapest aftermarket alternator may not be the best.
In your case the labor alone justifies spending a little more to get a good replacement alternator.
also, for what it's worth I had a similar experience with another car and the power steering pump. After replacing it three times with cheap Pep-Boys pumps, I just went to the auto-parts junkyard and bought the (original equipment) power steering pump from a car that had been totaled from a rear-end collision. That junk-yard pump worked just fine as long as I owned that car.
My repair philosophy now is to only use "quality" replacement parts.
and does any one know where the fuel pump restart button is?
It is my teen's car and I am scared to let him more than 10 miles away or be out late. Please tell me it was a cheap easy fix!
Problems:
1. Car wont start. Turn on the key and only hear 1 click, NO cranking. Knocked the starter with a rod, cannot knock start either.
2. The doom light along with these 2 lights beneath door rearview mirrors wont turn off. Usually they will be off once the car is locked. Now, they just keep on.
Facts and thoughts:
I am not sure if this is a dead starter or some other electrical problems.
First, the wife cannot start and successfully jumped it up, which sounded to me like a dead battery. But, the battery turns out to be as good as new. Then it comes to the starter.
But can this kind of thing really happen, a dying starter tries to start once or twice before final death?
If so, what about the lights that just do not turn off?
Any info is much appreciated
Does anybody have any ideas as to what the problem is.
Also, aren't there diagnostic machines that can check an alternator to see if it is working properly? How about other starting parts like starter, etc. Any diagnostic machines that can help?
HAVE REPLACED THE INLINE FILTER AND THE FUEL PUMP IN THE TANK AND RAN GOOD FOR ONE DAY AND NOW BACK TO THE PUMP KEEPS RUNNING AND CANT GET IT TO START BUT CRANKS JUST FINE. HERES A FEW CLUES ALSO GETTING A FLICKERING AIR BAG LIGHT DON'T KNOW IF THERE IS ANY RELATION(OR WHEN THIS LIGHT STARTED DOING THAT) BUT UNTILL NOW IF YOU CYCLED THE KEY SWITCH IT WOULD CATCH, HOWEVER NOW IT WONT, STILL CRANKS GREAT BUT WILL NOT START? HAVE NOT CHECKED FOR FUEL PRESSURE OR INJECTORS FOR FIRE BUT SUSPECTING EITHER THE CAM SENSOR OR THE KEY SWITCH OR POSSIBLE HARNESS ISSUES, ANYBODY GOT ANY INSIGHT ON THIS BEFORE I go nuts??? Thanks