Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

1697072747580

Comments

  • cobra11cobra11 Member Posts: 2
    Someone else mentioned that possibility.

    My son suggested I disconnect the battery for a few minutes and perhaps the computer would reconfigure. I did that, and haven't had any problems the last few days. However I will get the alternator tested.

    thanks
  • tribute2004tribute2004 Member Posts: 3
    HI, I no the ford Escape/ Mazda Tribute are almost the same. My problem is that my gauges will go from zero then all the way over and back. This happens any time. This includes the fuel, tach, and speedometer. I have been to the dealer and was told of a possible three costly causes. They were unsure of the correct cause. Have any of you had the same problem with your Escapes? If so did you find out the cause? Please let me know.

    Thanks

    Jim
  • ohfemailohfemail Member Posts: 3
    Replace the battery...I just had the exact problem with my '01 Tribute.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Yes, Ditto - this is a normal indicator that you are starting with low voltage - common on all Ford/Mazda and many other makes who use the same electronic gear for the dash from the same subcontractor (TRW, Visteon, Delphi & the like). Replace the battery, it'll go away.
  • fsteelefsteele Member Posts: 2
    after driving on a hot day sometimes when starting again the idle feature does not work. The motor runs fine but i have to use the foot feed to control the idle speed. there is not check engine light message.

    any help would be appreciated
  • claspilljmclaspilljm Member Posts: 3
    I am having the exact same problem with my 2002 Escape - did you end up having to replace all six spark plugs and coils? Did it work? I've had the same issue since September of last year - my Escape will shudder at stops and then the check engine light comes on. I've taken it into the dealer 9 times since September but they haven't been able to "duplicate the problem" and thus don't know what to do other than reset the check engine light. A week ago the light came on again and they got a code P0351 and said to drive it until the check engine light comes on again and then they'll look at the spark plugs. I'm not convinced that this will fix the problem and am wondering if your problem was resolved. Thanks for any information you can provide!!
  • fsteelefsteele Member Posts: 2
    Your problems seems different. I have a four cylinder car. the car does not show a check engine light. it seems to runs fine except the idle speed is way low during the problem. Your error message p0351 is ignition coil "a" primary or secondary curcuit malfunction. that might be the spark plugs. in the past I have had trouble with the error codes. it would be nice if the code repeated a few time before spending money. I would think you only need to change the affected coil and or spark plug. keep in mind I only try to fix my car. I do not work in the field
  • christykilikichristykiliki Member Posts: 1
    jrountree, Did you find out what was going on with this? My car is doing the exact same thing. When I start it the engine is so hot it seems, and it barely idles as soon as I go to put it in drive or put my foot on the break it shuts off.
  • bigdog59bigdog59 Member Posts: 3
    WELL I HAVE A 04 TRIBUTE WITH THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH THE GUAGES. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO THREE DEALER AND THEY CAN'T TELL ME WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. THEY REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR,BATTERY,GAUGE CLUSTER AND THAT DID NOT FIX THE PROBLEM. LUCKY FOR ME THEY DID NOT CHARGE ME FOR THE PARTS THAY REPLACE. I TOOK ALL THE CONNECTOR I COULD FINE AND ALL THE RELAYS, FUSES, RELAYS,BATTERY TERMINAL,GROUNGD TO ENGINE CLEAN THEM WITH CONTACT CLEANER RECHARGED THE NEW BATTERY OVER NIGHT AND STILL I HAVE SAME PROBLEM. ONE THING I HAVE NOTICE THAT WHEN I HAVE THE CRUISE CONTROL ON THE GUAGES DO NOT FLICKER AND THE SUV RUNS FINE WITH NO HESITATION. CAN ANYONE HELP ME OR GIVE ME MORE INFO....
  • gpoulsengpoulsen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01 Mazda Tribute V6 and my father and I are trying to replace the plugs. He is use to the older model cars and wants some better direction as to where the spark plugs are in the engine. He doesn't want to pull to many things off without knowing where the plugs are. Am I picking up that there are three in the front and then 3 in the back that are hard to get to? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    Hello,
    To answer your question, yes you have three in front and three in back. the three in front can be taken off quite easily, by removing the plastic shield that says ford 3.0L v-6 or Mazda, etc. Very simple. But the back ones, you have to remove the upper intake, Like i said earlier in my previous post it is not as bad as it sounds. Just follow my post from Nov,28. 2007 and you will be just fine.
    :shades:
  • bigdog59bigdog59 Member Posts: 3
    HI, ANY NEW UPDATE ON YOU GUAGE PROBLEM, IAM STILL TALKING TO MAZDA TECH'S THEY STILL HAVE NOT FOUND THE PROBLEM.....
  • rascal69rascal69 Member Posts: 3
    Correction on the CD4E. The transmission does have a serviceable or replaceable filter within the transmission, HOWEVER, this is a split-case design transmission so it requires disassembly in order to exchange out the filter. Certainly, this would only be performed during a rebuild operation, not routine maintenance.
  • mickmossmickmoss Member Posts: 2
    2005 Escape. It has the 3.0 V6 and has ran fine till 2 days ago. It now acts like it is running on 2 cylinders. No power, I cant even get it to move up a very small incline. Check engine light is on so I bought a code reader, gave me nothing but an "E"..I have no idea what that is, possibly error? Anyway, I suspect it is one or more of the O2 sensors due to the abruptness of the problem. I bought a Chiltons manual to locate the sensors and it is not very good at explaining where they are. I ahve found 1 of them but I am not sure which one it is. If anyone has info as to where the other 3 are at could you please let me know..thanks.
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Member Posts: 11
    I just destroyed a 2005 Escape, 4-cyl, 4-Whl drive.

    Particulars:

    65 MPH on cruise control.
    I broadsided a full size truck (drunk driver blowing a stop sign)

    I walked away with a bruised chest (air bag), seat belt strap marks and some glass cuts.

    I think the Escape did a great job of protecting me. Ibuprofen for the bruised chest.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Wow, glad you're here to post that.

    Best visit the ER or your doc and get checked out good anyway if you haven't already. Some things don't show up right away.

    Stay safe out there!
  • docscorpdocscorp Member Posts: 1
    I am a student and am planning to buy a 2001 mazda tribute with an odometer reading of 103000 and a price of about 5k. Can you guys suggest is it worth the drill? The car has never been in any problems so far, no known problems, clean car report. Kindly suggest.
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    Not A bad deal, But please please remember this: You are buying a Used vehicle, and any time you buy a used vehicle you take a chance. First things first: Have a mechanic check it out for you, yeah it might cost you a C-note but its better than 10 or 20 of them. These vehicles can go 100,000 miles between tuneups so if the previous owner has not replaced the plugs, PCV tube, then now is the time. Also have the timing chain replaced, transmission checked and fluid replaced, at least every 50,000 miles, and your coolant/antifreeze replaced and checked. Tributes and Escapes are sometimes notorious for faulty transmissions only because the owners do not do preventive maintenance on them, so make sure the owner has maintenance records or take to a mechanic. Good Luck :shades:
  • tipnkctipnkc Member Posts: 3
    $5k is approximately the KBB value for that year/make/model vehicle.
    However, make sure the timing belt has been replaced, and the maintenance record is up to date. Used vehicles can look good on the outside, but might have hidden issues in the engine. Having someone that is engine-savvy with you might be a good idea before plunking down the cash.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you want a somewhat scary list of a bunch of stuff that could be wrong with a used car, check out the Used Car Buying Checklist.

    Of course, some of that stuff could be wrong with a new one too!
  • dave186dave186 Member Posts: 2
    I just replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets on my mazda, in addition to the pcv valve, spark plugs and and the corroded vacuum lines. I used fuel injector spray cleaner to clean the throttle body also.

    I started it up and it ran a little rough at first, but then cleared up was running great.

    I put in a small bottle of fuel injector cleaner, and filled the tank everything ran fine.

    Once I got back home, I sprayed degreaser on the motor and rinsed everything off.

    I started it up again and, drove out of my neighborhood it was running rough and then died, NO POWER the engine was still running but the car will barely move when I put my foot on the gas.

    Could I have shorted out the coils when I washed the engine, i have pressure washed this motor many times before and had no problems.

    Help......
  • golfman3golfman3 Member Posts: 5
    fwiw, while looking at new cars.. onm screen you can do a quick 'trade in value' of your current car. I have a 2005 Tribute i, the 4cyl front drive. w/cruise and auto, comes with everything else, pretty well loaded up for a smallie, anyway, THAT 'appraisal' came back at between $5,800 and $7200... of COURSE they are OUT of their MINDS, waaay too low. So them charging you 5k for an 01... sounds high to me... tell em' will give ya 3600 max :>) Of course I will sell mine private for 9.5k+ because keep in mind the 4 cyl is in demand. I get 29 hwy, and 25.5mpg all around. JMHO on the value. Go to KBB.com and Edmunds.com at the very least to check values. Regards.
  • asus29asus29 Member Posts: 5
    Hello to All auto owners Ford, GM, Nissan
    The stalling is not a problem with the vehicles you drive,
    I have found its the Ethanol in the gas.

    Hello

    I to have stalling problem with my 1993 Nissan Altima, and 1987 Jaguar XJ6,
    when you stop to a light or any stop the cars stall, and if you keep your foot on the gas it stays running,
    on the Nissan Altima I have replaced my Idle control valve and still the same problem,
    I took out my hand book and seen Nissan states not to use oxygenate blend of gas which can not be determined.
    and will cause stalling and hot-starting, and lower fuel economy.

    I found a gas station with out Ethanol fuel and my cars run better.

    and the most importantly the stalling is gone. :)

    and I started a petition against Ethanol in fuels.

    Thank you

    Matt
  • ggannggann Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2001 tribute which had a rough start,idle and intermittent miss after it warmed up. It has 175k miles and had the factory plugs in # 123. Changed all plugs still got miss and check engine code P0301 #1 cylinder misfire (check engine light and code). Swapped ign coils to move problem no help. same code. Found problem to be a wire in the plug going in and out of computer located above the engine in the firewall. The wires that you what to check are the two that leave the harness from the engine and go into the computor plug. The top wire was orange and was good, but the one right below it was green and was broken/burnt in two inside the insulation. These wires must go to the coil or fuel injector. I rerouted the wire and soldered it together and she is fine. :) You may use your finger to move these wire around and she if the problem shows up, gets worse or clears up.
  • rascal123rascal123 Member Posts: 1
    my 2002 mazda tributes rear window does not latch. Is this a recall? If not, where can I buy the part? What part is it?
  • demajl04demajl04 Member Posts: 1
    My cruise control worked great. I had my power brake booster replaced last year, and my cruise control stopped working. I didn't notice it until I needed the cruise control about 2 weeks later. Does anyone know if this is fairly simple to fix myself? I don't know if something was disconnected during the repair (and just needs reconnecting), or if the repair will be more costly or time consuming. :confuse:
  • thuleschthulesch Member Posts: 2
    Purchased new Aug 2006. Currently 43,000 miles. Regularly scheduled tire rotations At 26,000 miles tires were cupped so bad the place I took it to refused to put them back on without my signing an acknowledgement of how dangerous they were to drive. Prior to this I had an alighment completed with hopes that it would hinder the cupping and stop the deafening noise. Bought new tires right after that (Goodrich?) and now at 43,000 miles the road noise is starting and I know the tires are shot again. Why do I have to replace my tires so often? It would be cheaper for me to buy a new car than to buy new tires every year. Anyone with the same issues?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Typically, tire cupping is a balancing issue, not alignment. I would have your wheels checked to be sure they are true, laterally and axially.
  • tveilleuxtveilleux Member Posts: 15
    I had to replace my tires after a couple of years because of cupping. They were cupped when I bought the car used with only 12,000 miles. After a year of driving they were unbearable. I replaced them with local Pep Boys Futura tires and purchased a lifetime rotate and balance package. I have the work done each oil change and am now at 45,000 miles on these tires with no problems. I have plenty of treadwear remaining. I do not align my cars unless I feel them pulling off center. I have not aligned the Tribute since I bought the tires, just the rotate and balance.
  • thuleschthulesch Member Posts: 2
    The original tires were rotated with every oil change, about every 4-5,000 miles. The car was aligned twice within one year as Conrads Goodyear said that would help reduce the tire damage. The second set of tires have been rotated every 6,000 miles and the same problem is happening, different tires, different service station. After less than 20,000 miles on them. Don't the tires get balanced when they are rotated? Could there be something wrong with the car causing this to happen to the tires?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    No, tires are not balanced when they are rotated unless specifically requested. Also, to my point about having the wheels checked, you only replaced the tires so any problem with the wheel would still be there after replacing the tire. It sounds like Conrad's isn't addressing your problem so check with another shop.
  • scoobysmomscoobysmom Member Posts: 1
    I just started to have th same problem with my 2002 escape it only has 62,000 miles should I repalce engine ciols or trade in what did u do how did u resolve your problem :(
  • claspilljmclaspilljm Member Posts: 3
    On my last visit on 7/16/08, they replaced the Overlay LG/W Wire at PCM Pin 26 CKT 1024 Connector C175. So far, the car has been fine. Prior to this it would shudder as if it were about to die and then the check engine light would come on. On all occaisions but one, this would happen just after we turned the air conditioner on. The code it would give was P0351.

    Hope this helps your problem!
  • shoedawg06shoedawg06 Member Posts: 2
    I have an '08 that I bought 3 months ago, and 3 times now I go to get in it, turn the key and everything comes one (radio, lights, etc) except for the engine. No noise, clicking, cranking, warning lights or sounds come from the engine. Twice this happened after it sat in my driveway over night, but once it happened after I'd been driving it around for a little while, then stopped for a few hours before trying to leave again. Takes several hours for it to start back up again.

    Dealer says they cant reproduce the problem and there aren't any codes registering. I'm a little worried about being stranded somewhere for several hours. Anyone else had a similar issue? How was it fixed?
  • jch2122jch2122 Member Posts: 2
    I have a question I'd love some assistance with. I'm on a tight budget and trying to get this fixed myself. My car was idling very rough and the rpm's were bottoming out, but it wouldn't turn off. I looked and the crankcase vent tube had been broken on both ends so I replaced that and it helped, but didn't fix the problem. I looked around some more and found a tube below the power train control module that had a hole in it so I electrical taped that and now it idles great, with no roughness or anything. I was very excited yesterday when I thought I had fixed it until I put it in reverse to drive it, when I did it turned off. Any time that I go from park to reverse or park to drive it pretty much bottoms out on the rpms, but doesn't turn off. It's fine if I'm going from reverse to drive or something like that though. I drove it to work today and it did good, but it is very sluggish when I put it into gear, it hesitates even if I've hit the gas and then jumps and goes. My check engine light has stayed on from the beginning of this. It read code P2195 but nothing specific so i'm not sure what to do now. My wife is the one who drives the car with our two kids so I just don't want her to have any problems when she's out and about. Thanks for your assistance.
  • irishamyirishamy Member Posts: 1
    I had this same problem...only had the car for about two months...turned the car off five minutes later tried to start it and nothing...after a few minuteslater it started...a few days later was stranded 200 miles from home...car wouldn't start...had to have it towed to the nearest Ford dealership and they had it for about 24 hours and had to reprogram new keys...they tried to tell me that someone must have mistaken it for their car and put their key in it which caused it to disable my car...not true!....no one at the Wendy's restaurant had the same car or even the kiwi lime color car I had. A few days later my car started dying for no reason...took it to where I bought it in Olathe they found bad wiring. Was fixed. Now my car doesn't want to run...for a week it's like my car doesn't want to shift to second gear...happens the whole entire time I come to a stop or slow down....when it does finally shift itself into second gear it takes off and my tires squeal...thinking it's my transmission...this morning coming to work my fuel light came on which I have a half tank of gas, the wrench light came on, my power steering went out, and my trip miles went away and just showed little lines across the screen....now I'm thinking it has some wiring issues again...taking it back for the fourth time to find out what's wrong....this car needs to be considered a lemon. When I bought the car a year ago before getting it off the lot the windshield wiper motor was dead and they had to replace it before I ever got to drive it off the lot.
  • asvr2000asvr2000 Member Posts: 1
    #22 - I have the same problem now in my Escape 2003. How did you resolve this problem?
  • asus29asus29 Member Posts: 5
    Hello there

    I found a gas station with regular gas with out ethanol and now my car runs good, no more stalling, but the thing is all gas stations are going to be mandate to have ethanol, i may have to trade in my car for a car thats flex fuel

    take care

    Matt
  • jefgovjefgov Member Posts: 9
    Is this something you can check & fix yourself, or do you need to have a mechanic do it? thanks.
  • bd1656bd1656 Member Posts: 1
    Had my Tribute in for oil change and noise in the front end when the steering wheel is moved back and forth slightly. Dealer replaced 2 link controls, found to have excessive play and they also found the left front control arm bushings were separating, this part was done under warranty but advised I should have a wheel alignment and charged $100. Also suggested that I better replace the rotors because they were corroded on the edges, asked them to clean or turn them, said they couldn't do this so went ahead and had it done, another $270 + taxes. Only relief I got from the dealer was a $50 credit on my next visit....when something freezes over will I go back. Called Mazda Canada, absolutely nothing but a hard time. Anyone else have any issues along the same line.
  • nwmnnwmn Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Escape with 60,000 miles and was just told I have transmission failure because there was no auxillary transmission oil cooler installed on my vehicle and I live in northern MN. Has anyone else heard succh a thing? NWMN
  • mike312mike312 Member Posts: 1
    I just replaced the plugs on my 2004 Tribute ES with the V6 and 96000 miles. The truck drives just fine and accelerates like always, but when the trans is in neutral, its an auto, and I step on the gas it goes up to 4000rpm, drops to 3500 and oscillates between 3500 and 4000 rpm, like an rpm liter cuts in. Any help will be appreciated.
  • escape4escape4 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2004 ford escape xlt, 134000km. I bought 6 months ago. first week of sep/08 car stsrted stalling and Engine light was on. I took it to garage they found code P0316 indicating ( misfire in ignition system). I talk to mechanic at dealer they think could be sparkplug, coil or computer or bad connection. I came home changed all spark plugs check all connection and clean coil connectors etc. car running fone, but everytime the weather gets warm it still has rough idle and gives me same fault code. Reading at this webside sounds like bad ignition coil. If anyone has any solution It will be gladly appreciated.
  • crhj19crhj19 Member Posts: 1
    If there is any kind of noise coming from the front, especially if it changes with speed, it could be one or more wheel bearings. Hope it helps.
  • bmtfrankbmtfrank Member Posts: 1
    my wifes 2003 escape has 105,000 miles on it. it has been a great car. recently it developed a miss in the engine while at idle. especially with the air conditioner running. i did plugs, air cleaner and gas filter. still missed. the fellows at auto zone said to run some sea foam through the engine and it would help the engine. i was preparing to clean the idle air control module when they told me to try the sea foam. i used the sea foam according to the cans instructions and lo and behold the miss disappeared. i went ahead and cleaned the idle control module. i am wondering if anyone else has tried this sea foam before and what kind of results the obtained. thanks
  • dctalkzdctalkz Member Posts: 1
    For everyone with the rough idle and sputtering. Have you intake o-rings replaced. This is a very common problem and will have you replacing parts left and right if you go by the computer codes. The intake o-rings are not electrical or mechanical so the computer cannot correctly identify the problem. When these go bad your engine sucks in too much air causing the computer to try to compensate and sending false error codes when it can't. The parts are about $30.00. Thanks
  • vg33e powervg33e power Member Posts: 314
    That my friend, is your rev limiter that prohibits the engine from going into red line when in neutral or park. This is put in place for an added protection againt detonation. Although this safety feature exist in all cars nowadays, please don't do that to your vehicle it is unecessary.
  • coloradoescapecoloradoescape Member Posts: 1
    Vehicle: A ’04 Escape, 62K. Problem: It has occasionally started hesitating after a cold start. I push on the accelerator not confident it won’t stall. Although it hasn’t actually stalled to date, there is an increased sluggishness once it warms up. It ran great until two months ago.

    Everything possible has been done preventatively as required @ 60K, including injector/gas system flush, plugs, filters, a new battery. Dealer has failed to identify problem. Until I trip their computer, they’ve not proven helpful.

    Any others experienced this? Any suggestions?
  • jwatsonxjwatsonx Member Posts: 1
    In the Haynes repair manual it says you have to remove the EGR pipe (and that if you do you need to replace it). Is this true? Can I remove the upper intake without removing the EGR pipe? Thanks!
  • racenutracenut Member Posts: 10
    I believe it normal my 03 and 01 tribute do the same always have its like you are up against a wastegate on a turbo this is done so you don`t blow the engine
Sign In or Register to comment.