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Comments
Thanks again, appreciated.
Stuart
Stuart
it could also be your left or right control arm.... i hit a pot hole and it it did the same thing until i fixed it.
I'm thinking that the brake pedal electrical sensor that sends the signal to the transmission shifter might have gone bad. Any help from my Edmunds Forum Ford owners friends will be helpfull. Thank you
http://s1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb378/Jann2005/?start=all
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On the reccomendation of my local Mazda service manager I bought Uniroyal Cross Country tires and the ride and noise level are amrkedly improved. Wow.
Shortly after that the car lost power, ran like crap and gas mileage dropped from about 26 to about 20-21 mpg. Got a p1074 code (lean condition bank 1).
Read some stuff on line about others that had similar problems and started the journey I am on.
Things I Have done since the head gasket change:
1. Idle air control valve
2. removed , cleaned, checked and reinstalled the fuel injectors with new O rings and caps.
3. replaced the o rings in the fuel rail
4. replaced the egr valve and the egr solenoid
5. Throttle position sensor
6. Vacuum eq control module
7. Mass air flow sensor
Checked the following for leaks, cracks etc.
air box & hoses
intake manifold (external for)
PCV Vale and hoses
EGR hoses
All vacuum lines etc.
Here is what happens.
1. Cold start car is a bit difficult to start but once starts all is good.
RPMs holds at about 1200 until the temperature gauge moves up about 1/4 of the way and then it starts to decrease to about 850 rpm.
Idle starts to become a bit rough and the rpms drop to about 600.
The idle then gets taken up to about 1200 rpm and drops back to the 5-600 range within 10 seconds.
Idle is then taken up to about 1500 rpms for a second or two and starts to come back down
Idle then drops below 500.
The engine almost stalls (battery light comes on) but rallys and the rpms go up to about 2000 rpm for a couple of seconds and then start to drop down and almost stall again.
Rallys again and same scenario for about two or three more times and then stalls.
Engine restarts easily but will not idle normally after that.
Idle keeps bouncing up and down and stalling.
Problem is I love this little car. Great utility, pretty fun to drive, enough power and great gas mileage compared to my Ford Club Wagon with the 4.6 V-8.
Really want to keep it on the road but it is making me nuts and i am running out of ideas.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hope this helps
I hope this helps someone and saves them some money too. Pass on the info to anyone else who is having same troubles.
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Mike
it was the seal and a shaft that was replaced. The dealership could not assure me this problem would NOT happen again. So much for off shore, aka cheaper parts.
Thank you for the info. I am assuming that you have a 6 cylinder engine in yours and not the 2.0 4 cylinder like mine.
Would i call this jerking pulsating?
I've got a 2002 Mazda Tribute, 128k on the clock.
December last year I had the 2 transmission mounts replaced, since then the car has developed a rattle, I'm not sure if the replaced mounts & new rattle are connected.
The rattle almost sounds as if its under the drivers seat, maybe a bit forward of that, I can be sat at lights and can here the rattle, then take the car out of gear and the rattle will vanish. Travelling at certain speeds I can also hear it too, at other speeds it's not there.
Has anyone any ideas or suggestions as to what it may be, and also a cure. I'm a total novice when it comes to car & mechanics so any help or advice really would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks in advance
jostu001