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Comments
yes, U joint needed to be replaced. plus an alignment.
Ford confirmed a bad batch of circuit cards for certain 2009 models. The later models are being included out of caution by the NTSB.
The fixtures which attach the seat to the car as you mention rust. The bolts holding the windshield wipers are rusting. In the rear hatch the bolts sticking up are rusting.
I have not noticed any water in the front of the vehicle, but the rear seal around the window in the hatch needed replacing (under warranty).
Seems that the same problems are still there.........unsolved.
After running a few errands, an hour or so later, her car suddenly wouldn't climb a hill and there was a loud hissing sound coming from under the hood. She pulled over. lifted the hood and noticed that there was an electrical wire hanging loose (we later learned, after some online research, that this was the electrical wire leading to the DPFE sensor).
We left the car on the side of the road and I took her back to the oil change place, where she proceeded to give the technician a piece of her mind, asking what could have happened and pointing out the unplugged electrical wire in the process. The technician explained that he didn't know of anything they did wrong and that the hissing sound may have something to do with the vacuum seal being knocked loose during the oil change. He said he didn't know what wire we were talking about and why it would have been unplugged. (But anyone who has ever lifted the hood on a Ford Escape would be able to see the DPFE wire unplugged -- it's right on top in the front.)
We called a tow truck and after talking to the driver for a few minutes, he took a look under the hood and noticed the blown EGR valve (http://www.flickr.com/photos/zpb52/8568114381/) and told us what it was.
We had the car towed to a reputable local shop that we've used in the past, and the head mechanic there said he's never seen an EGR fail in this manner since he's been working with them. We did find a photo online of another EGR valve that failed in nearly the exact same manner (http://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t561_ds512410).
So -- the question I have is -- Can the unplugged DPFE sensor lead to the blown EGR? Is it possible the DPFE was unplugged accidentally (perhaps knocked loose because of its proximity to the oil well), or would it have to deliberately be unplugged? Why would someone unplug it during a routine oil change?
We are going to approach the owners of the oil change place once we are billed for the repairs about "making it right", because we fully believe their negligence (or possibly foul play) led to this failure, and we may pursue legal action thereafter if they refuse to cooperate. Any advice on this front would be appreciated as well.
Any help any of you could provide would be fantastic. Thanks.
Seems pretty likely your situation is the same. There are lots of reports of this occurrence on the web. Ford probably should have reconsidered a utility vehicle that can't sustain a misfire especially one with plugs that are not accessible.
Currently the truck door is unlocked. I want to remove the plastic trim cover to get inside and have a look see. I have removed the 4 or so screws from the bottom. But since I know v. little about removing trim etc from and escape, prudence dictates I ask for advice before I start trying to pry it off and possibly /probably break something.
How is the trim attached to the cargo door, and what is the procedure for loosening and removing it.
Thanks
Ken
AZ Desert
It's the rear cargo door, not as implied a rear pass. door.
Thanks
Ken
even after last year undercoat.
After a severely drawn down dead battery, I installed a warranty replacement from Advance Auto.
It started right up and I drove it first on back roads 25-35 mph and it runs perfect. Anything above 35 and it boggs down like its starving for fuel. I ran it for about 6 miles struggling at 35 mph and had to turn around and come back home. It idles perfectly and drives with plenty of
smooth acceleration up to 35mph. No Check Engine Light throughout this ordeal.
Here is what I did so far.
- Connected the code reader to see if there are any pending codes - PASS no codes pending or present, no Check Engine error.
- My first thought was fuel filter/fuel pump. I installed a new fuel filter and no change still bogging.
- I attached a professional fuel pressure gage to the fuel line at the engine and getting a steady 65 PSI. I even placed the gage on the windshield and took it for a ride and the pressure is steady 65 PSI from 0-35 MPH. I even floored it only to get that severe bogging at 35+ and fuel pressure still at steady 65 PSI.
- Also note that it has a new exhaust + CAT front to back 6 months ago. Flow is fine.
I was ready to go out and buy a new fuel pump assembly, but not after that test.
My thoughts: Fuel injectors? why would it run so strong and smooth at idle and below 35 mph and also not throw a code.
The only clue I have is when all this started with the drawn down battery and new battery installation. I have decided to try and reset the computer by removing the battery cable and let it sit overnight. I have read that you need to pump the brake 5 times while its disconnected to reset. I have also read that you should tap the battery cable 2-3 times on the post to clear the computer.
--
Any thoughts on this are welcome.
You saved my [non-permissible content removed].. the hole was right where you said it would be and in your second post you saved me from trying to find the part number for the hose. I have some duct tape on it and the parts on order.
I can't thank you enough! God Bless the internet and those people who are willing to post their issue and their fix.
Matt Caswell
2004 Escape with over 112K on it