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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Oh BTW ...forgot to add to the list of intended repairs; the repair shop also indicated recently that I will need a transfer case replacement at $1818.00. They told me that 'if' I do not get it replaced in the near future, I will have additional repairs involved at the time of failure. I will not be able to drive my vehicle at all... if it goes out! Really do not like investing $38,000.00 plus interest for five years and then all of the added expenses thereafter. Should have bought a foreign vehicle and I'd still be driving it without all of the additional expenses.... no doubt! :mad:
I investigated the next morning. The detent and cable bracketry that disallows over or undershifting the trans cable had loosened and actually tipped forward, preventing the shifter assembly from fully activating the cable either way once it became loose.Its like trying to cram a choke cable through a crimped or bent conduit. Sometimes it works, other times it just binds up or flips around. I'd suggest that everyone who owns that year/model to have the TV cable assembly/shifter cable assembly looked at just in case. Been there. Hope this helps.
Thanks!
Almost as bad as putting S-10 underpinnings under a Hummer and selling at as some sort of true off-road vehicle. Sacrilege!!!
AAAUUGGGHHH!!!!
I'm fine. Really.
How did it go?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Have to wait to hear about the court date, now! :P
Thanks for any help with this. Luckily I don't need to drive much (public transportation to work).
Hang in there...
Also, my check engine light is constantly on. error codes are for "evaporative emissions system leak (large)", and occasionally "cylinder 3 misfire". i have had numerous hoses replaced, and replaced my gas cap, but problem persists. also had plugs and o2 sensor replaced at 100,000 miles.
AND (oh yes, theres more!) sometimes when i start it it runs really rough. it will idle low and act like its gonna stall, but doesnt. if i try to drive through it, it continues running very rough until i stop and turn it off and back on. usually then, (but not always) it runs fine after restart until the next random time it decides to do it again. happens both on cold start and after sitting for only 10 minutes, but only occasionally, only a few times a month.
AND when i start it, theres a knocking sound. nothing too deep or loud, and it usually goes away or is barely audible after warming up. pretty sure its a lifter sticking, but figured id put it on here for a second opinion.
and, FINALLY, this is the least of my concerns, but im wondering if this is a common problem. my a/c quit working in 2004 when the prior owner (a family friend) had it. she had the compressor and condenser replaced and it worked for a while after being charged, but eventually stopped again. someone told me that evaporator cores are known to go bad on cherokees, and im wondering if this is the likely culprit.
Well, thats where im at at the moment. any info or suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated. For some God awful reason im ridiculously attached to my Jeep and am not ready to let it go!
Thanks so much!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
When I start it in the morning the idle fluctuates. When I try to rev the engine the idle drops off completely and sometimes the engine stops. After a few minutes I can gently rev the engine but if I put my foot down too hard and fast then there is a 'popping' from the inlet manifold. If the revs are high then the popping stops and it revs normally until I let it settle to idle. Then when I try and rev it hard again the same thing happens.
Once the engine is warm it drives ok but accelerate too hard and it will backfire or 'pop' again.
In very hot weather the performance drops off completely and on steep hills or under load the engine will eventually stop. I have to wait until the engine is virtually cold in order for me to re-start. If I remove the MAP sensor, it helps but only for a while.
I have changed the coil. I do not know whether this is an electrical fault in one of the sensors, a fuel pressure problem, an ECU problem or a vacuum leak. Please help.
Can anyone help re the last message and can someone tell me where the EGR is located?
Thanks
Be sure to check out the Online Repair Manuals.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I tried everything such as TCS, IAC, MAP sensor, Coil etc with no luck. Finally I took the fuel tank off and it was full of dirt and sand. The fuel pump was weak so I changed that. Now the car is running as sweet as a nut. In fact it is running like a [non-permissible content removed] and I have already frightened myself with the speed.
I hope this helps others who have the same running problems.
Good luck
I've never had a moments problem with my 2006 Jeep GC until now. It's a Limited 5.7 Hemi with 78k and she's been really good to me but I'm getting a strange sort of sluggish shake (best I can describe it) when I am steady on the gas or push the accelerator for an incline. It comes and goes but seems to do it more in the 30 to 40 mph range. It also seems to have lost a little of it's get up and go. Had the plugs changed and it helped a little but it's still there. It's not throwing any codes other than a very random/occasional 'service 4x4 system'. Not sure if that's related to this issue or not. I've had my beloved mechanic (not a Jeep Dealer) look it over but he was at a loss.
Anyone out there with similar issues or some advice before I break down and take it to a dealer?
as far as the get up and go, with 78K miles it might not be a bad idea to get a fuel-injection service done. i have 144K on my '98 5.2L V8 and noticed a slight improvement afterwards (bumped me back up almost 1 mpg on the highway too).
good luck!
otherwise, someone else here may have some good advice for you. please do keep posting so the rest of us can benefit from your experience, and good luck.
p.s. i love my V8, with 144K she runs like new and i still get 21 mpg on the highway, but i'm still jealous of your hemi ;P
I am not mechanicly inclined. The jeeps check engine light stays on and my airbag light/chime goes off at random intervals. I will be driving along then ding ding ding then it goes off or sometimes just stays lit. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
i would get a vac gage and see what the vac is at idle should tell if have vac leak
Still the check engine light is on. Will the light go off eventually? How do I reset the codes so it goes off? or Does the fact that it is still on (only driven 10 miles) mean that something else is wrong?
Thanks
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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper