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Jeep Cherokee Grand Cherokee Engine and Performance Problems

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That sounds like a nightmare. I'd be interested in knowing how many others have had this happen to them or know of someone else who's experienced it.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lookin4jgcinfolookin4jgcinfo Member Posts: 5
    IF ANYONE HAS HAD A SIMILAR INCIDENT WITH THEIR 'JEEP' PLEASE POST YOUR INCIDENT ....WE'D LOVE TO HAVE MORE PROOF OF THIS HAPPENING TO OTHERS... I JUST HOPE I DON'T HEAR ABOUT ANYONE BEING HURT WORSE THAN I AND/OR KILLED. OF COURSE, WE APPEAR TO BE LIKE A LOONY TOON ONCE WE EXPLAIN ...PEOPLE CAN'T BELIEVE IT! NEITHER COULD WE!!! :sick:

    Oh BTW ...forgot to add to the list of intended repairs; the repair shop also indicated recently that I will need a transfer case replacement at $1818.00. They told me that 'if' I do not get it replaced in the near future, I will have additional repairs involved at the time of failure. I will not be able to drive my vehicle at all... if it goes out! Really do not like investing $38,000.00 plus interest for five years and then all of the added expenses thereafter. Should have bought a foreign vehicle and I'd still be driving it without all of the additional expenses.... no doubt! :mad:
  • lookin4jgcinfolookin4jgcinfo Member Posts: 5
    Do you still own your 2001 Jeep? What a shame to have to experience such a shocker! Hope you were not injured...like I was!
  • cblalock1cblalock1 Member Posts: 1
    When you start it up (if you can) it spits and sputters for a minute then just cuts off. So I done a tune up on it and it still is doing the same thing. I don't know what to do next. Can someone help!!! :confuse:
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Ok..I HAVE had this happen to me. I was parking a friends' 2000 JGC in their barn one evening, and as I waited for the electronic gate to open to let me into the pasture driveway, I placed the Jeep into PARK to answer my cell phone. Suddenly, without warning, the RPMs jumped to about 2500 and then we (the Jeep and I) lurched towards the gate. Fortunately I had the presence of mind to yank the E-brake and we came to a sliding halt(engine straining against the brake).

    I investigated the next morning. The detent and cable bracketry that disallows over or undershifting the trans cable had loosened and actually tipped forward, preventing the shifter assembly from fully activating the cable either way once it became loose.Its like trying to cram a choke cable through a crimped or bent conduit. Sometimes it works, other times it just binds up or flips around. I'd suggest that everyone who owns that year/model to have the TV cable assembly/shifter cable assembly looked at just in case. Been there. Hope this helps.
  • momavengermomavenger Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone have a copy of this technical service bulletin - Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2007? Is it on-line or can it be posted?

    Thanks!
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    I haven't seen a TSB for this; I think Jeep is in denial. Typical of the " If I didn't see it, it didn't happen." mentality of manufacturers.
  • momavengermomavenger Member Posts: 6
    Hi Frumunda - I actually did find the service bulletin! Issue with my Jeep is under "legal consideration" and I have the oh-so-happy chance to scream at the Chrysler lawyers tomorrow!! :lemon:
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Good. Yell at 'em about the crappy exhaust manifolds and the plethora of electronic nightmares they have oh-so-graciously bestowed upon the public. Oh..and tell em the four-door Jeep spits in the face of what the CJ Styled Jeeps stand for. Putting flat fenders on that thing doesn't make it a CJ, it makes it a glorified XJ.

    Almost as bad as putting S-10 underpinnings under a Hummer and selling at as some sort of true off-road vehicle. Sacrilege!!!

    AAAUUGGGHHH!!!!

    I'm fine. Really.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I have the oh-so-happy chance to scream at the Chrysler lawyers tomorrow!!

    How did it go? :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • momavengermomavenger Member Posts: 6
    Interesting - it was a deposition with my lawyer and the Chrysler shyster-I could see the gears turning in this guy's head - "hmmm-how do I get out of this...not bad gas sold in NJ, no error codes picked up by the daimler-chrysler computer check until the sixth stalling incidence, dealer just replaced electronic front end computer module, no accidents..." unfortunately the problems started at 20,000 mi., which places my claim outside of NJ Lemon Law, but still allows me to file breach of warranty - He's going to try to get off on the fact that I never had an accident and I never had to pay for any "repairs", but my lawyer has something up his sleeve, too!

    Have to wait to hear about the court date, now! :P
  • salinitysalinity Member Posts: 5
    Hi all - Trying to figure out what may be going on here - 1995 4-cyl (I know, I know) Jeep Cherokee. There's some sort of electrical connection which has a wire from the battery (?) and clicks into a "fitting" (sort of like a plug) which looks like it goes into the engine block. It's located just in front of the distributor cap on the passengers side. It came to my attention, because there's what appears to be a mixture of gas and oil seeping up thru it. What is this connection and what would cause this seepage (I can start it up with this thing "unplugged")? Still starts and runs (although I've had trouble starting as of late).

    Thanks for any help with this. Luckily I don't need to drive much (public transportation to work).
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Hmmm...it could be a coupla things...I would usually guess its a oil pressure cutoff switch, but you're saying it still starts and runs? I would have to say I'm not totally sure. I'll dig through my service manuals and see what I can come up with....

    Hang in there...
  • jayjay813jayjay813 Member Posts: 2
    Where do i begin? i have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport w/ 4.0L 6-cyl automatic, 110,000 miles... I recently had some issues with it overheating due to bad water pump, which blew my head gasket. I had all that fixed, but one problem that started when it was overheating was my oil pressure gauge started reading zero when the engine got hot, but would go back up when i gas it. Even after cooling issues were fixed, gauge problem continues. i'm not leaking or burning any oil that i am aware of, gauge just reads zero when engine is warm and idling.

    Also, my check engine light is constantly on. error codes are for "evaporative emissions system leak (large)", and occasionally "cylinder 3 misfire". i have had numerous hoses replaced, and replaced my gas cap, but problem persists. also had plugs and o2 sensor replaced at 100,000 miles.

    AND (oh yes, theres more!) sometimes when i start it it runs really rough. it will idle low and act like its gonna stall, but doesnt. if i try to drive through it, it continues running very rough until i stop and turn it off and back on. usually then, (but not always) it runs fine after restart until the next random time it decides to do it again. happens both on cold start and after sitting for only 10 minutes, but only occasionally, only a few times a month.

    AND when i start it, theres a knocking sound. nothing too deep or loud, and it usually goes away or is barely audible after warming up. pretty sure its a lifter sticking, but figured id put it on here for a second opinion.

    and, FINALLY, this is the least of my concerns, but im wondering if this is a common problem. my a/c quit working in 2004 when the prior owner (a family friend) had it. she had the compressor and condenser replaced and it worked for a while after being charged, but eventually stopped again. someone told me that evaporator cores are known to go bad on cherokees, and im wondering if this is the likely culprit.

    Well, thats where im at at the moment. any info or suggestions at all would be greatly appreciated. For some God awful reason im ridiculously attached to my Jeep and am not ready to let it go!

    Thanks so much! :)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    If your engine overheats, it's not unusual for the oil pressure to drop. However, if your engine is overheating and your oil pressure drops, I think you should get it taken care of right away. Your head gasket may be shot again. :(

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • frumundafrumunda Member Posts: 15
    Not necessarily a head gasket. If the oil pump has crud in the pickup screen(which can happen when coolant gets mixed in the oil or vice versa, the oil galleries can get clogged with goo as well. I would have the cooling and oiling systems flushed and leak tested. Sometimes when the oil pump has a lack of oil in it(caused by the blown head gasket) the pump vanes can wear. Excessive oil pump wear in general can cause this problem as well. My thought is that if it isn't clogged its worn out.
  • illdillilldill Member Posts: 2
    i have a 93 grand cherokee, parked it last year for the reason that it powers down and sounds as if it backfires @ around 3000- 3500 rpm, Ive put alot of work into this vehicle and gave up on it, now change of plan im trying to solve this issue, compression test is fine and i usually rely on check engine light and i solve senser probs with it, i tryed the turn key on and of and no codes show up that seem to solve my problem, good i changed the fuel filter and tested pump ran a lil better after but problem still exists????????????????????// hmmmmm
  • illdillilldill Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 grand and i had a whining noise in the front end fluids were lright and ended up being the differential bearings, i replaced them and put on smaller tire and was good
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it has a problem with either fuel or electrics.

    When I start it in the morning the idle fluctuates. When I try to rev the engine the idle drops off completely and sometimes the engine stops. After a few minutes I can gently rev the engine but if I put my foot down too hard and fast then there is a 'popping' from the inlet manifold. If the revs are high then the popping stops and it revs normally until I let it settle to idle. Then when I try and rev it hard again the same thing happens.

    Once the engine is warm it drives ok but accelerate too hard and it will backfire or 'pop' again.

    In very hot weather the performance drops off completely and on steep hills or under load the engine will eventually stop. I have to wait until the engine is virtually cold in order for me to re-start. If I remove the MAP sensor, it helps but only for a while.

    I have changed the coil. I do not know whether this is an electrical fault in one of the sensors, a fuel pressure problem, an ECU problem or a vacuum leak. Please help.
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    I forgot to mention that it is a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 1994, 4 liter 6 cylinder.

    Can anyone help re the last message and can someone tell me where the EGR is located?

    Thanks
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are you getting any trouble codes?

    Be sure to check out the Online Repair Manuals.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    No codes and no check engine light.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    The EGR should be near the exhaust manifold. Perhaps someone with hands on experience would jump in with specifics. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • craigd47craigd47 Member Posts: 4
    I'm having exactly the same problem with my 2004 Grand Cherokee V-8. It started suddenly. Were you every able to solve the problem? My mechanic says that it is caused by carbon build-up.
  • emtstanemtstan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 cherokee at idle it misfires and if you turn on the ac it gets worse, also it takes a minute after pushing the gas pedal for it to run normal I have changed the dist, plugs, wires please help thanks alot
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you have vacuem leak
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    Thank you for that.
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    I thought it may be that, so I sealed all the vacuum pipes off the inlet manifold but it makes no difference. Do you know of another test I can do to ascertain whether I have a vaccum problem. Please bare in mind I am in the middle of the bush in N Africa.
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    I am still having the problem but I think I am getting closer to the cause. I am almost certain it is electrical as it gets worse when the engine gets hot.
  • indianajamesindianajames Member Posts: 10
    This is a message to all those who have been having the same problem with the Grand Cherokee as I have been. See message a week or so back.

    I tried everything such as TCS, IAC, MAP sensor, Coil etc with no luck. Finally I took the fuel tank off and it was full of dirt and sand. The fuel pump was weak so I changed that. Now the car is running as sweet as a nut. In fact it is running like a [non-permissible content removed] and I have already frightened myself with the speed.

    I hope this helps others who have the same running problems.

    Good luck
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    could be the intake manafold it self have used light oil or choke cleaner and spray around intaje and head do when cold so as not to start fire
  • sanewcombsanewcomb Member Posts: 3
    Okay- first of all I'm new to this site but I am so happy to have found it and I'm hoping that you all could shed some light on an issue I'm having....
    I've never had a moments problem with my 2006 Jeep GC until now. It's a Limited 5.7 Hemi with 78k and she's been really good to me but I'm getting a strange sort of sluggish shake (best I can describe it) when I am steady on the gas or push the accelerator for an incline. It comes and goes but seems to do it more in the 30 to 40 mph range. It also seems to have lost a little of it's get up and go. Had the plugs changed and it helped a little but it's still there. It's not throwing any codes other than a very random/occasional 'service 4x4 system'. Not sure if that's related to this issue or not. I've had my beloved mechanic (not a Jeep Dealer) look it over but he was at a loss.
    Anyone out there with similar issues or some advice before I break down and take it to a dealer?
  • trek87trek87 Member Posts: 49
    if it's doing it when giving it gas on an incline, my first reaction is that it's the overdrive output unit. do you have a manual switch to disable your overdrive? if you do, try disabling it and see if you get the same shaking in your drivetrain.

    as far as the get up and go, with 78K miles it might not be a bad idea to get a fuel-injection service done. i have 144K on my '98 5.2L V8 and noticed a slight improvement afterwards (bumped me back up almost 1 mpg on the highway too).

    good luck!
  • dbgrandcherdbgrandcher Member Posts: 1
    I have a 01' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo which I love but I think the thrill is leaving if not gone. :cry: It was running fine until the other day. In the same day the transmission started sticking and would not shift until I ran up the RPM to about 45000. After that it would run fine until the next stop where I had to do it again. The cooling system seems to be at odds with as well, shortly after this episode our overflow for the coolant began to spit out coolant everywhere while we were in park. It looked as if a hose had come loose but it was all from the overflow. Since then our fan doesn't come on and we were only able to drive it without any more trouble if we kept it moving. If we stopped then without the use of the fan the engines temp would begin to rise. As of today, only two days later, the engine after startup, maybe a minute or two begins to overheat. This is becoming a huge thorn in my side. Are there any sujestions as to what may be causing these two problems? Thanks
  • sanewcombsanewcomb Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your advice! But I don't think it's the overdrive. I would compare the issue to the slug you feel when you need to downshift for more power in a manual. I can shift manually too and even if I leave it in 3rd it still does it.
  • trek87trek87 Member Posts: 49
    ok, well it was worth a try :). i'm not an expert, but i still suspect it's a drivetrain issue, and it smells like it's still transmission-related. your transmission pump might also be bad, but it's hard to say without a road test. i highly recommend taking it to a trusted Jeep dealer (if you have one) or your trusted mechanic for a road test. an experienced Jeep mechanic can usually diagnose common issues quickly. the only other possibility that comes to mind is a throttle positioning sensor or vacuum seal, but i think that's a stretch.

    otherwise, someone else here may have some good advice for you. please do keep posting so the rest of us can benefit from your experience, and good luck.

    p.s. i love my V8, with 144K she runs like new and i still get 21 mpg on the highway, but i'm still jealous of your hemi ;P
  • phantom_staticphantom_static Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,
    I am not mechanicly inclined. The jeeps check engine light stays on and my airbag light/chime goes off at random intervals. I will be driving along then ding ding ding then it goes off or sometimes just stays lit. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
  • slaught1slaught1 Member Posts: 8
    I have an 05 which sounds like the same issue, mine unfortunately started around 30k and I am still living with the issue. The dealer has no clue but there is a long list of things I have replaced so far that haven't helped. The service manager claimed it was an issue with the transmission and Chrysler knew about it and was working on a flash for the Transmission PCM. There are only a couple of places I have left to check on the engine side... Fuel Pump, Filter, Fuel rail , injectors and then I will have to focus on the tranny. Enjoy the problem while it is little, it gets worse with time.
  • yeats66yeats66 Member Posts: 5
    Hello...I am new to this group. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4X4. I just had the engine rebuilt by NAPA. The new engine is installed and connected. I started it up and it was idling rough. I noticed some vacuum leaks on the injectors so I replaced all of the O-Rings. That seemed to fix some of the problems. I checked the onboard computer and there are not error codes. The engine sounds great when you run in above 1000 RPM. It just when it idling is when it is rough. There are no air leaks. All of the sensors are connected. Before the engine died(before it was rebuilt) it ran and idles normally. Does anyone have an opinion?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    sounds as if you still have a vac leak
    i would get a vac gage and see what the vac is at idle should tell if have vac leak
  • harley4paxharley4pax Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee which intermittantly starts. The dealership just tells me they can't do anything until it is NOT working and, as life would have it, everytime they have it, it starts. I replaced the ignition switch and still have the problem. What do I replace next? What other parts could be the problem? I turn the switch and nothing happens. There is no sound, and the engine does not turn over. Thanks.
  • sanewcombsanewcomb Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for all the replies... You have to wonder exactly how anything gets fixed nowadays with so much stuff that could go wrong! Anyway, I had another reply from another site. This is from a 15 yr certified Jeep/Chrysler mechanic. I'm going to try this first and go from there. Maybe it will help someone else too... "'this trans had problems with the dipstick tube letting water into the trans-usually need lots of water for this to happen--my suggestion is get the trans serviced--make sure to use the mopar fluid-this trans is picky-you may have to have it done twice if the fluid is bad--when they pull the pan if it has water in it the fluid will look milky--if that is the case you will need an overhaul--the clutch discs are glued on with water based glue--if not then try driving it for about 100 miles if the shudder is still there you will need a new torque converter-also make sure the trans controller is up to date'
  • smithedsmithed Member Posts: 444
    I had been getting a check engine light for some time and poor performance, sputtering, etc. (2001 4.0L) The codes read as a misfire on cylinder 6. I changed plugs, looked over the wires. No good came of that. The Jeep was in for another issue (radiator hose burst) and the guy working on it said he was a dealer Jeep mechanic for 15 years and that the problem was always the ignition coils that are in the long bar that plugs into the spark plugs. He was great: said I should do it to save money. The coil pack was about $125 and I installed it in about 30 minutes. Now it runs great.

    Still the check engine light is on. Will the light go off eventually? How do I reset the codes so it goes off? or Does the fact that it is still on (only driven 10 miles) mean that something else is wrong?

    Thanks
  • stanbostanbo Member Posts: 1
    My misfire only happens when the throttle is barely open, when I stomp it it's gravy. The other day it shut off when pulling up to a stop light, started back no problem. I have had a few codes come through, random cylinder misfire and misfire in cylinder 8. I changed the plugs, TPS, and coil-pack for cylinder 8. Over time the misfire has gotten worse the codes have changed slighty, random cylinder misfire, fuel system too lean, fuel system too rich. Just took it to a dealer, they said to change the plugs, and run a fuel induction service. Any thoughts?
  • soggybottomsoggybottom Member Posts: 2
    Help. I purchased a 92 jeep Cherokee for my grand daughter since her parents could not afford to buy jer a car. I am 66 years old and on a fixed income as well as being in poor health, but she could not hope to get a scholarship to college without transportation. This jeep had multiple issues which i repaired. The reason it was sold to me for $500 was a lot of noise in the engine when it was running. All the torque converter bolts except one had fallen out and were in the inspection pan. Not the water pump is squeling and i have no clue how to replace it. Please help me with some advice. I am mechanically inclined but have limited mobility, but can not afford to hire this out.
  • yeats66yeats66 Member Posts: 5
    Well I after trying to figure out why I was having idling problems...I realized that one of the spark plugs had oil on it. So I am assuming that it was not firing correctly on that cylinder. Also, before I could do anything else....I started to have white smoke come out of my tail pipe..head problem? Also I noticed that there is coolant leaking between my engine and tranny (around the bell housing) I could not find a leak on the back side of the head...just in case it was leaking from the gasket and seeping down into the bell housing. Any ideas anyone?
  • yeats66yeats66 Member Posts: 5
    The water pump is pretty easy to replace (Easy on an inline 6 cylinder 4.0) Take both the fan shroud and the electric fan off. Should be 4 screws. Then you have to loosen the power steering pump so you can free the belt. Then there are 5 bolts on the water pump. Remove those then clean up the surface to prepare it for the new one. Make sure it is very smooth..this way you have a good seal when you put the new pump and gasket on. I always like to take a little bit of RTV sealant and apply a thin layer to the new gasket before applying. Also while you are messing with stuff...I would go ahead and replace the thermostat which is located above the waterpump. You will see the radiator and heater hose connected to the inlet. Take both of those off and remove the two bolt. Clean both surfaces and install the new thermostats. Hope this helps you.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
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  • mikk1mikk1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 JGC and I recently installed a new water pump. It was an easy job and all went like clockwork, however, since then it idles ruff and almost stalls when it idles down. I did disconnect the battery while I doing the job and I have checked the engine to see if and wires or anything had gotten disconnected or what not. Is there anything I needed to do after reconnecting the battery?
  • eric784254eric784254 Member Posts: 11
    havin a problem with my jgc1998 4.0 litre. got the iac replaced & fixed that problem, now whenn i go to take off it sounds like its backfiring through the throttle body. replaced plus, wires, cap, & button. gapped plugs to specs, replaced wires one at a time not to get them crossed & made sure they fit tight on the plugs and cap. after it warms up to normal operating temp., its worse. from a stop sign for example, when i push on the go pedal it doesnt want to go. replaced the map sensor also. could it be my tps sensor ?no check engine light on ? if i cant fix this problem im going to be forced to sell it. please help
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