What is this thing worth?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2012

i was thinking it might have originally been painted rather than chromed. Might be worth something but I wouldn't plan on retiring from the proceeds. :P

Paul3557 · June 2012

That small amount of exposure won't do any appreciable harm. Its not like they are being dunked in the ocean................

lemko · June 2012

My Grandmom's friend has a black 1989 or 1990 Cadillac Sedan DeVille with a black "roadster top." The car is filthy, but only has 80K miles in it which is low for its age. She wants $5,000 for it, but the automotive accountant in my head says $2,500 is more than generous. So far, the lady has received no offers which isn't surprising. I'd say she'd do a lot better if she at least had me clean and detail the car for her.

gsemike · June 2012

I bet you're right

Mr_Shiftright · June 2012

I think if it cleans up to the level of a decent driver then his estimate of $2500 is spot on. For $5000 the car would have to be a stunning automobile of show quality---and since it doesn't sound like that, then yeah, IMO, she is not realistic.

It's just a nice old used car. It's not a classic and isn't ever going to be one. Let's face it.

By all means he should clean it up. As it sits, if it's truly as filthy as stated, she'd be lucky to get $1000 for it.

fintail · June 2012

A couple hundred dollars spent on a fantastic detail can add many times that in value, for sale or trade in.

Your price is fair, and would probably be the only offer. Just not a car many want today, but I can see your eyes dancing at the thought of a new hooptie :shades:

olddustoffer · January 2013

Am restoring a 64 T-Bird Landau with about every option available. The only part not stock is that I put in a 5 Liter HO (@300 hp) and an 800Hp capable transmission. Back in those days, Ford didn't put VIN numbers on the engines, so if someone wanted to switch it back to the 390 and Cruiseomatic, they could. It didn't have the original engine in it anyway when I bought it. I'll have about 15 16k into it when done. Wife will never let me sell it, but if I did, would it bring significantly more by reverting it back to the 390? The main reason I changed was because it dropped over 800 pounds, and with the HO I can buy parts anywhere instead of having to wait like a week or more just for a fan belt. With the Holly 4bbl, and performance kit, it fairly screams.
(last week I blew the doors off a Charger RT Heh)
Any clues on value now verses with the 390?

Mr_Shiftright · January 2013

No I don't think the value change would be "significant" if you reverted back to the original engine, and here's why I think that:

1. these are not high dollar cars even perfectly restored to like new condition---maybe $25,000 would buy you a fabulous '64 hardtop Bird.

2. while an original car would be worth more than yours, I don't think the difference in value would justify the expense of reverting back. Your car, if it has a decent body and interior, is worth what you have in it, so really by spending another $10K to find, rebuild and install an original engine, what have you gained? Nada.

3. car collectors are far more tolerant of "upgrades" than they were years ago---people like to drive and enjoy their "classics", so unless you've chopped up an extremely rare and valuable car, you haven't done much harm to the market value---some, but not much.

I think you should look at what you have now as a "resto-rod" or "pro touring" or whatever they're calling mildly modified old cars these days.

It's possible, if you did a very nice job and if you have desirable upgrades on a "classic" that really improve fuel mileage, performance and handling, that you might even match or exceed the value of an original. It depends on how far you go with the mods and how tasteful and useful they are.

I mean, things like modern fuel-injection, efficient AC, good fuel economy, radial tires, etc---these make an old car much more fun to drive.

fintail · January 2013

I think you might have improved the value. It's not a particularly rare or historic car, and you have made it much better to drive - probably more useful power and probably better mileage too, and by losing that weight, it probably handles better and eats up front suspension components slower than those things are known to do. I'd keep it the way you built it, maybe hold on to the original powertrain in case a new owner wants it back.

I wonder what it would take to add FI to that engine. My first car had a 390/4bbl, and that thing made me hate carbs.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2013

Aftermarket FI is a bit tricky but do-able and there are kits on the market for it.

qbrozen · January 2013

Going back... oh, about 20+ years... i remember them (I think Holley) offering a 4-bb EFI carb. So basically they just made a circuit board and suspended a mister of sorts over each barrel. Is that still around? I would imagine it to be improved by now. I think back then the cost was $1500.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2013

Now they use setups LIKE THIS but I think Holley still makes what you're talking about.

michaellno · February 2013

Old MB for sale in Pacific NW ... what's it worth?

Two door taxi?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2013

It's an odd duck to be sure. I can tell you one thing---it's never going to live in California.

Given the stripper interior and 4 cylinder motor and parts inconvenience, if not hassle, I'd have to guess that around $3500 is all the money here.

If it were a 6 cylinder with MB Tex and automatic, and a U.S. model, it'd be worth more.

fintail · February 2013

I agree with shifty - a few grand. It's an odd Euro (wrongly badged), not very fast or sporty, kind of pretty but needs a lot of detail work (cleaning, wheels, who knows what else, those for sale signs are disturbing). A very late (83-85) 300CD Turbodiesel coupe will bring the biggest money out of that series.

canewhite · May 2013

In fact car advertisements have about as much in common with reality as James Bond's life has with my life - S.F.A. You will never see people commuting to work in a car advert

makojakopako · June 2013

Hi,
I have an opportunity to buy 1974 Plymouth Grand Fury 2 doors in medium condition (little rust, 2 cracks in a dashboard, teared seat, old faded 2nd paint coat but strait solid body, 400 big block sound and run very smooth) but I have no idea how much is fair price for Grand Fury coupe, because I cant find anything to compare. Looks like 2 door Grand Fury is very rare car or I don't know how or where to search. Can anyone help me please?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2013

Sounds like something in the $2000 to $3000 range at best. While some cars might be rare, that alone does not boost value, since someone also has to "care that it's rare". The rarity was due to poor sales all across the "C" body line in 1974. In this case, 1974 was long past the Golden Age for Mopar. Still, not a bad "starter car" for getting into the hobby.

If you can pick it up cheap and restoration costs are not too excessive, you can come out all right on this car, but I would set a maximum budget of around $10,000, because after that point, you may no longer break even on it.

What are they asking for it?

From your description, I would grade the car on the well-known Collector Car Condition Category as a Number 4 car (on a scale of 1 to 6, 1 being a show car, and 6 being a parts car)

This "grade" may help you if you find any price guides online that cover this car.

olddustoffer · June 2013

I don't know of any US auto after about 71 that has a great deal of interest. Go to Mecum.com and see what the values there are. I see their auctions on Velocity Chanel about every week, and cannot remember any mid 70's car on the Block. 4WD Drive Jimmys and some trucks yes, but no cars.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2013

Yes, 1971 seems to be the general "drop-off" point, due to the fact that most cars started to suffer from horsepower reductions and complicated electro-mechanical pollution controls---in other words, drivability issues and a decided lack of "punch" to the gas pedal. You'll start to see "big blocks" with under 200 HP. Also the styling got more cluttered and bloated in American cars of that era.

However, a post 1971 car can be a nice "entry-level" car for someone starting out in the old car hobby. The trick is to buy as nice an example as you can, because most post '71 cars are not that valuable as to justify the cost of restoration.

So what I'm saying is that it makes much more sense to buy a very clean 1974 "survivor" for $6000 than a somewhat needy one for $2000.

andre1969 · June 2013

Wow, small world. I came somewhat close to buying a '74 hardtop coupe back in the late 90's (technically, that first year the car's correct name would be Plymouth Fury Gran Coupe) from a guy in a Mopar club. This one was pale yellow, had a 360, fairly good shape, and he wanted $900 for it.

These cars were very poor sellers when new, partly because they debuted during the first Arab oil embargo. That was a bad time for big cars in general, but I think Mopar suffered extra hard because they introduced an all-new style that year. And they had sort of a massive, hulking look to them that made them just look like guzzlers. Personally, I love 'em though, especially the '74 Furys and the '75 Gran Furys with the quad headlights.

According to my old car book, they only made 9617 Fury Gran coupes in 1974, so it was a rare car, even when new. For the most part, these cars were popular as police cars and taxis, but sold poorly to the general public, Often the civilian models, the 4-doors at least, fell into the hands of taxi drivers as they became used cars, so for the most part the big C-body 1974-77 Fury/Gran Fury, and its sister Monaco/Royal Monaco, became rarities pretty quickly.

If you get it, post some pics. I'd love to see it!

billiejod · July 2013

Feedback on the value of 1957 Austin Healey 3000 appreciated:
this car has a v8 327 chevy engine inside
original transmission
original v6 engine available
new top
interior/exterior in good condition
*the v8 engine is not running

Mr_Shiftright · July 2013

That's a tough one. In one sense the car is a [non-permissible content removed] so it will not have the value of an original A-H.

Most V-8 conversions on these cars are not done very well, so you end up with a twisted frame from all that V8 torque and a car that goes like hell in a straight line and couldn't corner or brake to save its life.

I guess what I'm saying is that "what it is worth' depends a lot on the quality of the engineering involved.

I'm thinking well under $10,000 unless the body and interior are simply stunning, and the V8 conversion is virtually invisible to the passerby.

qbrozen · July 2013

ummm... well, considering there is no such thing as a 1957 AH 3000 or that no AH 3000 ever had a V6, I'd say its worth $0.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2013

People confuse A-Hs all the time in nomenclature. It's probably a 100-6.

I did see one once with a GM V-6 and automatic, and it was nicely done---by an engineer as a hobby. But really, what's the point of that powertrain on a car of this type? Might as well get yourself a replica.

http://mjkearn.hubpages.com/hub/Kit-Cars-The-Austin-Healy-3000-Replica

qbrozen · July 2013

If the car is for real and has, in fact, the original I6 available, I'd say return it to stock. They are fairly valuable.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2013

That'd be the smart move, if you could buy it cheap enough and if it hasn't been 'chopped' to get the V8 in there. Doing a complete nut and bolt on an A-H can be expensive.

billiejod · July 2013

I did not have the correct info. this is a 100-6 AH and the 357 conversion is relatively un-noticeable. plus....original motor comes with the car. there is no rust and the interior is in good condition. the car has been garage kept but has not run in 11 years.... it could though without a complete overhaul.

isellhondas · September 2013

A couple I know has in their garage, a 1965 Ford Mustang. It's a hardtop wit a 289 and Automatic.

They bought it years ago as a basket case with good intensions. They moved it up here from So. California and it's been sitting in their garage ever since. They own a restaurant,work six days a week and have come to grips with the fact they don't have time for it.

The good news....

The body is straight as can be, rust free, repainted Poppy Red some years ago. Paint has some flaws but from ten feet away, it's a knockout! Chrome factory Mustang wheels.

New interior! A reproduction black interior is installed and the car has not been driven since the
paint and interior were done. All glass and chrome looks like new.

Bad news...Not driven since 1990.

The 289 engine "appears" to have been rebuilt. It sits on an engine stand.

C4 Cruisematic sits on the floor of the garage along with the driveshaft.

All parts "appear" to be there but who knows?

All books, title etc are with the car.

This guy has no idea what it's worth and neither do I.

A recent Old Cars Price Guide shows a Condition 5 @ 3000.00
Condition 4 @ 5000.00 and a Condition 3 @ 11,000.

Now, I would drop the C4 at a local trans shop for a reseal at the least.

Assuming the worst...what do you guys think?

I will say, the car "pops" as far as it's looks!

qbrozen · September 2013

what is the underside and rockers like?
There are just so many details that could change the value, I think.

If all what you wrote is all there is to say, meaning the underside is pristine, engine bay is detailed and ready to receive the rebuilt engine, all numbers are matching, etc. Then it sounds to me like you are about $8k away from having a $16-17k car. Sooo... $7k? If you look around and find other things that need doing, then start deducting.

that's my wild guess.

Mr_Shiftright · September 2013

I think the way to approach "basket cases" especially of very common cars like a '65 Mustang, is to consider the price of an equivalent condition car all fixed up and ready to roll....not "show quality restoration" but a very VERY nice driver.

So for a '65 Mustang that's maybe $15,000 right now.

Then you start backing up from that price, putting in plenty of "fudge-factors" for things that could go wrong.

Are you feeling lucky? Or will the rings in that engine have glued themselves with rust to the cylinder walls after 23 years? Will a re-seal really seal the transmission or it is all gunk and varnish in there?

And of course there's tires and all new brakes and brake lines (if you plan to live very long driving a single chamber master cylinder car), draining the gas tank, rebuilding the carb, new fuel pump, filter, battery.

Then the labor to install engine and transmission, or if you're going to do it, tooling up for that.

I'd say $3000 to $4000 is all the money here.

If you're lucky you'll be in it $8K total, and if you're not lucky, you'll break even.

If you PAY $8K, you could be hosed down the line.

isellhondas · September 2013

Shifty, you and I are thinking alike again.

After 20 plus years of sitting I would probably have that transmission overhauled. Those O rings and clutches have to be tired and varnished up.

I hear you on that engine. I would probably pull the plugs, squirt it full of WD 40, let it sit awhile and then put a breaker bar on the front pully and hope like hell it turns over. Tires are at least 25 years old...redlines and I figure it'll need the brakes overhauled.

I grew up with single master cylinders but a conversion would probably be smart. I hadn't thought about the gas tank. I hope it's empty!

The car comes with that engine stand, a Cherry Picker and a set of go jacks.

I'm thinking I ***might*** offer 3000.00.

I HATE basket cases and I'm usually the first one to recommend against buying one.

Oh...rust..like me, the car is from So. California and we don't know what rust is!

Were the car not a real looker I wouldn't even be thinking this way.

Thanks guys...info is about what I expected and is appreciated.

I wish it was in Marin County. I have a "buddy" there that I could probably get to go have a look at it!

qbrozen · September 2013

Hell, I would easily gamble $3k on it. That is definitely assuming the worst.

If he wants anymore than 4, then I would have to dig further into those details I was talking about. Like i said, my 7 number is really assuming the best.

texases · September 2013

On one of those Mustangs I'd have to have proof it wasn't rusted/bondo'd over, they're just such rust buckets. But a rust free Mustang is quite valuable, being so rare...;)

isellhondas · September 2013

Before committing to it I'll look harder than I did before but I've never seen a So. California one that had rust.

" Being so rare"...Funny, I can remember when you couldn't drive three blocks without seeing three or four along with three or four VW beetles.

texases · September 2013

Yeah, if it's a SoCal car you'd be safe - is that for sure?

isellhondas · September 2013

Well, if it lived it's entire life in SoCal then I would be pretty sure. If they ever rusted, I never saw one even by the ocean where I grew up.

Do they rust in Texas?

Mr_Shiftright · September 2013

Worst rust areas for those is bottom of the rear fenders of course. I've seen quite a few that have been "clipped" (entire rear end from another car welded on).

On the plus side a mechanic from 1915 could work on 90% of a 1965 Mustang.

isellhondas · September 2013

Well, the seller wouldn't come up with a number saying he had no idea what it was worth.

I told his wife that I was comfortable at 3000.00 so I should know tomorrow. I hate dealing with someone I know. I even suggested that maybe if they advertised it they could get a lot more.

I only wish I had a huge garage to put it in. As it stands I would have to leave one of our cars outside while the Mustang took up half the garage.

Yeah, I'll have to dust off my old Fox Valley Dwell Tach and volt ohm meter.

And somewhere I still have a timing light.

Funny though we usually just set the points with a feeler gauge and the timing by ear and it worked just fine. If it pinged just retard the timing a bit.

If they don't bite, it'll be no big deal.

isellhondas · October 2013

I just don't like Basket Cases and I saw the red flags waving.

The guy said he would take 4000.00 for it and it is well worth every nickel of that.

I looked it over more carefully and it is a VERY nice car.

Not Poppy Red but a non stock Corvette red. Not original but still nice.

Under the hood looked good and was detailed.

289 2BBL engine isn't seized and "appears" to have been overhauled at some point.

C4 Cruisematic trans looks OK but hasn't run since 1990. I would have it gone through.

Reproduction brand new interior..needs dash pad and has no radio.

Factory chrome rally Mustang wheels including the spare.

All of the parts "appear" to be there.

A great winter project for someone but just not me. Got cold feet.

kyfdx · October 2013

If it wasn't for cold feet, I'd be dead broke.. ;-)

texases · October 2013

2bbl V8 - why would they go to all that trouble for the base V8...?? I bet a nice high performance 4 bbl would be worth more, even if non-stock.

isellhondas · October 2013

Yeah, me too!

hpmctorque · October 2013

One reason for the 2-barrel is that back in the day, at least, the 2-barrel 289 was designed to run on regular gas whereas the 4-barrel required premium. Don't know whether that difference exists with today's gasoline.

qbrozen · October 2013

where is this located again?

isellhondas · October 2013

They made three different versions of the 289 that year.

The standard one had a 2 BBL. You could get a 4BBL with I think 225 H.P.

The hot one was the high performance version with 271 HP. Mated to a four speed, that 271 was no car to mess with. I watched one whip a GTO once.

The vast majority had the 2BBL and they weren't slouches either!

isellhondas · October 2013

The Mustang is in Issaquah WA about 15 miles east of Seattle.

Me too!

qbrozen · October 2013

ah, way too far.

don't know if that's good or bad. probably good.

isellhondas · October 2013

A lot of shipping companies will be happy to pick it up along with all of the parts and ship it to you.

Or you could fly out, haul everything to a shop and in a month or so, you could drive it home!

qbrozen · October 2013

i'm left wondering what a shop would charge. I mean, if you had $10k sitting around doing nothing and could just write a check and sell the car in the end for a profit.

What is this thing worth?

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