GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

balser · October 2001

I had a 100k GM extended warranty on my '95 burb. The truck had about 25k on it when I bought it and I figure I broke even since I paid less than retail on the warranty. We didn't get one on my wife's '96. The only major repair was a broken snap ring in the transfer case, which tore the whole thing up. GM picked up the parts, charged me for labor (fair enough in my mind). Had I bought an extended warranty, I probably would have broken even again.

Our 2000 burb has a 100k zero deductible warranty (the dealership screwed up - we paid for a $100 deductible, but the cards came through at zero!). I got it on the 2000 because it was the first year of the redesign.

You can deal on the warranty price if you buy it as part of the deal. If memory serves me right, I think the dealer profit is in the neighborhood of 50%. Call around.

Just make sure the dealer doesn't try to pull what one did to me. I insisted on a GM warranty (convenience and security), but when we went to sign they gave me some off-brand. When I refused to sign, they gave me the GM warranty for the agreed price. They're the ones that sent the contract through as a zero deductible, so I guess they got what they deserved.

fredmcintire · October 2001

Can anyone help me? I am looking for the best price I can expect to pay for a 2001 or 2002 (specify which) Suburban LT 4x4. I am in the Chicago (NW burbs) area. Please email me at fredmcintire@freeze.com

Thanks,
Fred

brown31 · October 2001

Has anyone heard of any changes or seen any spy photos of the 2003 Yukon XL and XL Denalis? (I saw one of the Tahoe.)

Thanks,
Jim

robz3 · October 2001

Thanks for your responses to my questions. I had another one.

We had to have our dealer do a swap with another for the XL with second row captains chairs. So we didn't know exactly how it would be. The XL came today and my wife had to some paperwork at the dealer so she sat in it and she found one of the captains chairs to be a little uncomfotable. She described it as there being a softball in the seat bottom. She told the salesman and he didn't think there was a problem. I was going to go in tomorrow to check it out. I had already signed the buy order sheet before it arrived (bad move on my part) so I guess we are stuck.

Does anyone else have this problem? What should the dealer be expected to do in this case?

I should have gotten the Denali......

jgmilberg · October 2001

That truck belongs to the dealer until you sign the title paper work, and take the keys. If she meant at the bottom of the seat back it is possible that the lumbar was all the way out, that's what it feels like. It can be adjusted to each person's liking. It might also just be something stuck under the seat.

If it is a seat problem I would not take possession of it until they replace the seat. Try a few others on the lot, if there are no others try the full size pickup, just make sure the seat is the same. They can swap out a seat from another truck if they have one the same type and color, otherwise it will need to be ordered and that may take as long as 2 weeks.

If you are really into bells and whistles the Denali XL is the way to go, but with the frills comes a price tag to match, roughly 5 grand more. The extra features are really nice , the heated rear seats, steering wheel radio controls, auto climate control, 6 disc cd changer, Bose stereo, trip computer, all wheel drive, 6.0L engine, autoride, black cherry "wood" trim. It is truly a luxury ride indeed, but if you are on a budget the YXL might fit your wallet better.

adplusone · October 2001

My mileage is getting to the point I am getting ready to replace tires and shocks....tires I got handled as I have been running 18" Michelin Pilots.....what is a good upgrade on shocks???
Thanks in advance....

rpi · October 2001

My 2001 XL 1500 has developed a driveline whine at 50mph. The whine appears to be comming from the front diff. but I am not sure. The noise is not apparent below or above 50mph. It is not tire or wind noise as the dealer has suggested. They were able to road test and hear the whine but have no explanation or fix. Has anyone encounterd such a problem?

I also hear a knocking sound at idle after longer highway trips. It sounds like a tapping sound, almost like a loose bearing in an alternator. Dealer has heard the sound and has eliminated the possibility of valve chatter or engine related source, but has no fix. Maybe I need a new dealer.Any insight by other owners who may be experiencing similar problems. ?? Thanks in advance.

doc3316 · October 2001

I have a 2000 suburban that from the very beginning has had the irritating habit of turning on the headlights whenever it gets even a little overcast. I have been told there are no adjustments. Anyone have an idea on how to adjust or defeat this without deactivating the DRL with the 4 pushes on the magic button? Thanks in advance!!

pat32 · October 2001

I have a 2000 Suburban LT with the automatic temperature control. Several times now with it in auto mode the A/C light will go out and the A/C stops working. Going into manual doesn't allow the A/C to come back on. Also going to manual and back to auto does not fix it either. After pushing the button, it flashes 3 times, which the owners manual says you cannot do that in the current mode. Then about 10 minutes later or it seems like when you go over 40 mph, if left in auto, the A/C light comes back on and blows cold air. Seems like an control problem. The dealer cannot seem to repeat this. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

gillk · October 2001

I am picking up a new 2001 Suburban LT in the morning and am wondering if the rear seat radio controls can be added to the console, fairly easily. For whatever reason, this one doesn't have them. I mean does anyone know if its just plug and play or?? The dealer promised to provide the necessary parts at cost if the job is possible w/o replacing the radio or console. Thanks in advance.

robz3 · October 2001

Took delivery. It looks like a beast in my garage!

Got it in pewter/pewter, a pretty standard but nice looking color scheme which should be fairly easy to keep clean in the winter.

One question. I hadn't realized how "supportive" the drivers seat is. I am used to fairly flat seats but this one has a lot of contour and even with the power lumbar support at it's lowest setting there is still a bit too much lumbar support for me. Do these seats break-in or get softer or more comfortable over time?

I'm fearing I made a mistake getting this SUV now. Mayber I just need more time to get used to it. I really do enjoy the extra room though for the family trips.

jgmilberg · October 2001

Do you have the full feature bucket with heat? If so have you tried retracting the side bolsters? There are 2 things controlled by the round button. If you push it in at the bottom it pulls in the the sides, and pushing it at the back will pull in the lumber, vice verca for the sides/lumbar. This is really what your problem sounds like. Check it out and get back with us. How do you like the stereo?

The seats in mine are still like the new ones, I have 14K miles on my 2001 now, and haven't noticed any change. My friend got a new Tahoe last week and the seats feel just like mine.

It's called buyers remorse, after you get the first 500 miles on it you will never wonder if it was a mistake or not again. You made the right choice, trust us.

robz3 · October 2001

I messed around a lot with the seat and retracted all the lumbar, side and center, with mixed results. I do like the seats better than the Suburban because the one in there put my left foot to sleep. Must be something about the way it's stitched. Also I was not happy about the seat bottom in the burb.

I'll give it a while but right now I am wondering if I didn't make a $40,000 mistake! I guess I just have to get used to it. It's new and unfamiliar so the mind and body needs to adjust.

The stereo blows. I'm going to try that upgrade that I've seen on the Tahoe message board to remove the factory "deamplifier" and add my own amp. Also, I have a JL 8" speaker from my previous GTP that I will try to replace the 8" sub in the YXL with.
And I will put component speakers in the front. I'll try Inifinity's or Alpine.

I'd replace the head unit but I understand the OnStar is hooked to it and won't work without it. Maybe after the year service is up I'll replace it.

The only thing I wish this YXL had was a trip computer with MPG and DTE.

jgmilberg · October 2001

If you go with components for the front get the Denali A-Pillars, they have speakers integrated into them. It will look more like a factory install. Some audio shops can hack into the wiring to make the on star work with a separate amplified speaker but it won't kill the stereo like the factory one does.

gonefishin · October 2001

I have not followed this forum since Dec '00, but at that time (I hope this is the correct forum) a small number of us were complaining that a cold blast of air was coming into the cabin by the front passengers' feet. My dealer 1) tried to say it wasn't so, 2) then said yes others had complained too 3) said that altho GMC has no TSB they (dealer) would install a deflector which helped a little. At most recent visit to dealer this week they said GM now has a fix and parts will be in next week. I am scheduled to have the fix put in. I do not know the TSB#, but will try to get it if there is still interest on this board.

brown31 · October 2001

I've heard Quaker State oil is not a good oil. I've heard it contains a lot of parrafin and can gum up your engine.

Does anyone have any insight on this? My dealer will give free oil changes on our Denali, but they use Quaker State oil.

Thanks,
Bill

muncho · October 2001

We have had a new YXL for a week now. We are very pleased with it. Only problem is that the HVAC system in front keeps blowing air at a low level even when knob is set to "off." We can control the temp of this air, so it doesn't seem like the same "cold air" problem that so many have discussed on this forum. We asked the dealer about it assuming it was something that could be adjusted, but he said that it is normal. Something about keeping some air moving in the vehicle. Is this normal? Just checking to make sure the dealer is being straight with us.

The only other issue is that the front panel gets quite hot in a small spot near the headlight controls. Seems like something that might eventually lead to something burning out back there. Dealer says it is a common issue and that there is no fix for it, but that nothing ever burns out as a result. They will change the portion of the panel that is getting hot "for customer satisfaction" but that it won't fix the heat issue.

Any comments are appreciated so we can know whether we should follow up on these issues or not.

gpvs · October 2001

Is the button set to recirc air or fresh air? Could just be that. Just guessing.

andyl2 · October 2001

The recirc button will force the A/C conpressor to be on, I think. GM designed the vehicles so that there will be a minimal amount of fresh air flow at all times. This is to prevent stale air and pollution from building up in the vehicle.

b4z · October 2001

All GM vehicles have "flow through ventilation"
meaning that there is always air moving through the vehicle. Like you said, you can control the temp of the air.

b4z · October 2001

There are better oils out there. I have read that Quaker State emulsifies quicker than other dino oils.
I have found that quaker state does not take heat well and the oil pressure in my car drops after a couple of thousand miles.
I use Valvoline HD racing and have no oil pressure problems. You can buy it anywhere and it is fairly cheap.

don4341 · October 2001

Irv. responding for Don:
The heat is normal since the light diming rehostat is simply a big adjustable resistor which must absorb all of the power as you dim the dash area lights.
It`s just a state of the art thing = a low cost way to drop voltage to the dash lights.
As you know, to the General cost is everything. About ten others have complained about this high heat problem. Been around for a long time. At a bright dash light point you will notice less heat - after the resistor cools down.
Irv.

tiredofwaiting · October 2001

I have a 2001 Yukon. It is about a year old. I noticed the rear door weatherstrip is almost worn through where the front top corner of the door rubs across as the door is shut. It appears that the front top edge of each rear door is bent down. Maybe this is a fix for a design flaw that is over compensating to prevent a water leak that would develop with time???? I lubed it up really well last week after a wash and now it already has what looks like pencil eraser smudge all down the door jam.....Anybody else noticed this??? Had it repaired??? Thanks

jgmilberg · October 2001

Check post 1580 for the info the number is 01-01-37-008. It cut off part of the end so if you need the whole thing email me.

gonefishin the email address in your profile might have something wrong with it, I tried to send you the TSB in it's entirety and it got kicked back to me undeliverable. Just an FYI.

eman5 · October 2001

Does anyone know if and when GMC/Chevrolet will put 1) all-wheel steering, 2) third-row doors, and 3) (please bring these back!) 42-gallon gas tanks in these vehicles?

jgmilberg · October 2001

The closest you will probably get in any of the new trucks is going to be 38.5 Gal. and to get that you have to get a 2500 series. 4 Wheel steering is rumored to be coming on the Denali and Denali XL in 04 or 05. Third row doors?!!! Come on why not just have a fold down side, the whole side for the passengers with pop out steps, no doors at all. You need structural stability and three doors on either side are not going to work for that reason. Third row doors are going to be a pipe dream, besides the tire is in the way, would you rather climb over a seat or get the kids all dirty from climbing on the tire to get into the back?

campo57 · October 2001

Well, they're putting all wheel steering in the new 2002 Sierra Denali (old C3) and I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for that 42 gal tank.

Campo57

robz3 · October 2001

What would you go with? GM or Lund? Heard good things about Lund and was looking at their Trident Wrap model for $68. Don't know how much the GM goes. I figure that you can't go too wrong with the GM though.

brown31 · October 2001

I'm waiting on an '02 Denali XL. Is Castrol one of the best motor oils to use in it? (I'm looking for non-synthetic.)

Is Havoline good, too? (I've heard Quaker State, Pennzoil and Valvoline are not good.)

Thanks for any help,
Bill

b4z · October 2001

Uhhhh. Did you read my post #1672?
I guess maybe someone else should give their experiences with oil.
Like i said, Valvoline Racing works best for me. This is in a 1987 IROC that has 202,000 miles.
This car has been driven hard and runs hot by design.
I tried Castrol, and Valvoline holds up better.
JMHO.

buster27 · October 2001

Almost any oil holds up well if you change it and the filter regularly. I have been using Pennzoil 10W-30 in all my Suburbans for the past 10 years with no ill effects. I change the oil and filter every 3000 miles. Letting it go longer than that, especially if you do any towing, is not wise.

balser · October 2001

I used to bracket race a small block and never had good luck with Quaker State. Lifters clacked like crazy. Ran Penzoil and never had a problem. I run Castrol in our street cars. I used to work for an industrial products distributor and their tests showed that Castrol was one of the best generally available oils out there. JMHO.

jgmilberg · October 2001

I have one painted to match from Image. Love it looks great stands away from the hood for easy cleaning behind, no stick on bumpers to protect the hood from rubbing. Check out the aftermarket/accy board there is a topic in there for these things.

I have heard some people complain about some lund models and wind noise, so make sure to get the one with minimal noise. I can't remember if it was the Trident or Interceptor.

scrapper · October 2001

We're thinking on trading in our 93 Suburb/117,000 miles and have found a 1999 1500 2w/d leather 48,000 miles that the dealer is asking 21,900. We've also looked at new because of the 0% financing. Are there any major differences we should be considering, in your experience to warrant the price difference? Did they make the 2001 smaller? We love our 93 which has cloth interior, 3 bench seats and the barn door, which has worked fine for us. We have 3 kids 10,7,5 & their friends, masses of baseball equipment(hint:red clay) and if we're towing the boat, coolers, boogie boards, skis ect. I know that within a month any new vehicle will be trashed so I want to know that spending the extra money will be worth it. Any advice would be appreciated.

b4z · October 2001

I would go with the 2000 and later suburban. They have a more powerful engine and a stiffer frame.

mike346 · October 2001

Has anybody else experienced a problem while filling the gas tank? I've got an '01 Yukon XL, when I'm filling the tank the pump keeps kicking off like the tank is full. I'm thinking maybe the tank or filler neck isn't vented right or something. Any ideas?
Thanks

campo57 · October 2001

I've got an '01 YXL with a Lund Interceptor bug deflector on it with no problems at all. I paid around $50 for it.

Campo57

don4341 · October 2001

By the Boom Box Designers at GM.
They wanted a place to put a large speaker in the rear of the truck. This meant that the spare tire had to go somewhere.
The spare tire eliminated the large gas tank. Don and I both think GM is nuts. Which is more important a large gas tank for long trips or a speaker.
GM made a "senior citizen unfriendly decision" when they changed the tires location. Maybe they no longer need the seniors $$.
Irv: for Don.

jgmilberg · October 2001

But GM can still fit a 38.5 gal into the 3/4 ton models with the spare tire under there. Try and figure out why they can't do that on the half ton, I think it has a 33 or 35 gal tank. I doesn't make any sense to me, the guy on the GMC phone lines tried to tell me it was because GM didn't feel it was nessassary to have on the half ton models because of the smaller engines. I shot him down when I informed him the Denali and Denali XL both have the 6.0L engine. He retreated to his I don't know why they did that answer, and gave me a number to call and make a suggestion. Maybe if a bunch of us call them and suggest it, they will look into doing something about it.

don4341 · October 2001

Could you share that number with us.
GM no doubt will not place the spare inside again but I just wanted them to know how hard it is for a senior to get that dumb spare from under the vehicle. Really neat when its raining and that filthy, under-inflated, rusty spare is lowered into the mud along side our farm roads.

Irv.

robz3 · October 2001

Would a senior have any better luck with a spare inside the truck?

Maybe if I am an older person who has trouble with things like that I either call for help or buy those run-flat tires. I think a senior that would have trouble getting a tire out would have as much problem trying to get the lugnuts off the wheel the way these dealerships crank them on.

burbx6 · October 2001

Plan on ordering a 02 XL 1/2 ton ,2 wheel drive soon.Can anyone tell me what the percentage is for the GMS pricing? How much does one get off the window sticker?
Any feed back on the new rear suspension regards to towing appox.5500 lbs.?
Dick

jgmilberg · October 2001

I called 1-800-462-8782. They transferred me to another dept. and they gave me the direct number to that area but I can't find it anywhere.

don4341 · October 2001

Irv: Posting for Don.
Don just turned 70 and I am 72.
Yes it is much easier to drop a tire from the rear of the vehicle to the ground - just roll it - than to crawl under the rear on your knees.
We both still use a creeper to change our own oil, do our own grease jobs and routine repairs. We still change out easy items like starter motors, water pumps, radiators and such. We like to inspect for leaking transmission oil lines, leaking coolant, leaking brake lines, tighten loose bolts, look for cracks ,cuts or bulges on the inside of tires, while underneath doing oil changes. Don`t trust the average shop to do as efficient a check as we do. Its my truck!
Don takes longer than me due to having two artificial hips. We both use a very large lug wrench to break free the nuts and both have torque wrenches to make sure the studs are treated with care. The nuts are not torqued by stupid mechanics with 150 pound air lines. Some care but a few don`t care for anything but speed. You can`t always have a flat near a trusted shop.

We discussed this stupid design quirk at our weekly seniors club last week. 42% of our male seniors change their own flats - I thought more did - its not that hard for Petes sake. We`re old - not dead. It was my pleasure to add this "GM`s Anti Senior Citizen Design of Spare Tire Storage" to the National Seniors Tabloid. I`m anxious to see how many other seniors agree. It will at least start a long list of comments.

Irv.

stever · October 2001

Great post Don & Irv! Wish you guys lived in my neighborhood.

Here's another one of my "old but not dead" heros (but he's got 25 years on you guys).

Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

campo57 · October 2001

They get the 38.5 gals by using 2 tanks. I guess wherever they put the second tank on the pickup won't work on a Sub/YXL.

Campo57

robz3 · October 2001

I bought my Yukon XL for space...to carry people, dogs, luggage...etc. I don't want a spare tire in the back taking up the space I spent the $40,000 + for. Maybe GM can make an option for you guys, but I am happy that it's out of the way.

Different people, different perspectives.

P.S. I do all my own service too, when I can.

don4341 · October 2001

Agreed. "Different strokes for different fokes." ;c)
Irv.

jgmilberg · October 2001

I have a 3/4 ton YUKON XL! Not a truck, it has the 38.5 gallon tank. 1/2 ton YXL, and Denali/XL only gets 35, the trucks depend on the bed length, I think long bed gets 35, and short get 25, can't remember. Ryanbab help, what's your fuel capacity?

SteveSatch · October 2001

I have two kids (4 and 2 years old) and will probably have another. The vehicle I buy will be a daily driver for just me, but will be used for lots of family outings like camping. I don't tow anything, but a camping trailer of some sort could happen in the future. My question is regarding the Chevy Suburban 1500. How well do kids fit in the first row of seats? What is the comfort level really? Can I fit two or three kids there? Does the center position have a head rest? Does the center position have a lap belt or a shoulder/three point? I'm trying to find a vehicle that I can fit three kids comfortably and safely (shoulder belts and head rests for all) in the first row so I can remove the third seat and have that room for camping stuff. We go on long camping trips and bring a lot of stuff. I'd like to have the storage room a pickup would provide but I don't think three kids would be comfortable enough in the back of a pickup. Can two luggage racks fit on top of the Burb? They look real long like two could fit. What's the poundage rating that one can carry on top?
Thanks,
Steve

GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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