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2014 Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experiences

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Comments

  • dcanes41dcanes41 Member Posts: 15

    Hi Brian,

    Thanks again...

    I contacted Honda Lease and they said the $16,100 which is the residual is what I would have to pay in order to purchase the car. It sounded like there is no wiggle room on that $16,100 since it is a closed end lease.

    Ok, I was on the Weymouth Honda website and went to the lease section and the residual for the 2014 Accord EX was $13,599.15 for superb credit which I have. Is that number the same for every Accord EX in every state? If that is the case, the residual of $15,600 is high!

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    Hi everyone - I'm new to the board, but have read through many of the posts, including all of the ones in this thread. I was hoping you could give me some advice on my current situation. Thank you in advance for your guidance.

    I am looking to buy a 2014 Accord EX-L V6. I started the negotiation process by emailing 10 dealers in my area. In my email I told them what model, color, and accessories I wanted and that I wasn't interested in any other dealer addons. I asked for a quote with the total price including all dealer charges and other fees with a break down of each cost and told them I was planning on financing with the current Honda Financial 0.9% 60 months offer. Also, I mentioned that I wanted to buy this week.

    I got responses from all but 1. Some listened to my request and others played around. Of the 9 quotes, the best was for $28,213 before accessories and TTL. At first this seemed like a pretty good price, but reading this thread and others, it sounded like I might be able to get the car for up to $1,500 below invoice, or $27,043 (including destination). So, with that information, I decided to get aggressive and see if I could get a really good price. I replied back to each and told them that I had quotes from other dealers that were significantly lower and that I wanted to see if they could meet or beat $27,250 before any accessories or TTL and taking into account flex cash.

    Of the 9, I received a response from four and after exchanging another email with each, they all basically didn't respond. For reference, I'll post the details of each of the four responses in the next post to keep the word count down on this post.

    Anyways, so now I feel a bit stuck and not sure how to move the conversation along with any of the dealers since I came at them really strong with my low $27,250 offer. I don't need to squeeze every dollar out of them, but I also don't want to pay much more than I have to.

    What is a legitimately fair price and what should I do next?

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8
    edited January 2014

    For reference, these are the four responses I received from the dealers mentioned in my post above:

    1 - asked me to send the quotes and he'd talk to his sales manager. Since I don't have a real quote, I responded saying that I didn't feel comfortable divulging which dealers sent me the best offers, but to let me know what they could do. He replied and said that they couldn't match and wouldn't counter.

    2 - like above, they asked me to send the quotes and she'd talk to her sales manager. I once again responded saying that I didn't feel comfortable divulging which dealers sent me the best offers, but to let me know what they could do. She didn't respond.

    3 - said no problem, they'd absolutely match and asked when I could come down. I replied saying to please send the buyer's order with the pricing and VIN on it and asked to schedule a time for the next day. Never heard back.

    4 - Said he could basically do the same deal with $750 flex cash, but adding in a mandatory $400 accessory package. He also said he didn't have the model in stock, but could do a transfer. The numbers weren't clear, so I asked for a break down of everything and if there was any fee to transfer. Never heard back.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    jwatl,

    From what i'm reading you are doing a nice job negotiating via email..

    If you want to close the deal you need to go to def com 5....

    First decide on a reasonable target price to buy in your state. a high and low end price .

    Example ; in my state very few are getting close to 1k below invoice. most are getting 500 below dealers invoice. If i choose to travel out of state i may...get 1500 below in M.D / VA.

    In your state.............target price 1000 below

    If thats your high number you have to make direct calls to each int/ mgr and let each dealer know you will buy your model vehicle that moment on the phone from him/ her and leave a credit card deposit to wrap up the deal.. call your targeted dealerships the last 2 days last day of this month and you will make the best possible deal in your state..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8
    edited January 2014

    Thanks for your response, Brian. My idea was to send that $1,250 below price in hopes that I'd end up at $1,000 below after some negiotating, but I basically got no response. So, you'd recommend that I just wait until the 30th and just do the remaining negotiating over the phone?

    By the way, how'd you determine that $1,000 below was the target price?

  • dcanes41dcanes41 Member Posts: 15

    Wow! Thanks for recommending Penn Fed CC.. Those rates are awesome!

    @brian125 said:
    If you want to buy your Accord outright i'm sure dealer will go lower on used sale price if you make him a offer thats not out of the ball park.

    Check out Penn fed credit union they have better rates than your credit union.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    watl,

    Rolled-back odometers cost Americans $760 million yearly

    Jeff Rossen and Josh Davis

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    Dec. 9, 2013 at 7:34 AM ET

    When Ryan Barber turned 16, his father went online and bought him a Honda Civic that showed 42,000 miles on its odometer. But they later found out through records that it really had 140,000 miles.

    Authorities say it's a growing problem. According to a new report from Carfax, 190,000 cars have their odometers rolled back every year, bilking Americans out of $760 million in lost value and unexpected repairs.

    Criminals have been tricking customers for years by rolling back the mileage on the odometer, then selling the car for more money. But now the scam has gotten so profitable, investigators say it's become organized crime.

    Want a scam, rip-off or issue investigated? Email Rossen Reports.

    Ryan and his father, Troy Barber, say they've already had to shell out hundreds for expensive repairs, all for a car worth half what they paid for it. "A wheel could fall off," Troy said. "(I) just didn't want to put my son in that kind of a predicament."

    "This has turned into a real nightmare," Ryan said. His dad said they felt "ripped off, lied to, betrayed ... they're thieves, and it's not fair."

    "This is a safety concern for everyone, because people are buying cars that have 300,000 miles on (them) and believing they only have 70,000 miles on (them)," said Tom Wilson, central area commander, California DMV Investigations. "Anything can fail. And the concern is, usually they won't find out until it's too late."

    TODAY's team went undercover to watch a sting set up by investigators from California's DMV, posing as the buyer of what was advertised as a great luxury sedan with 85,000 miles. That's what the odometer showed too, but the Honda Accord had a secret: According to state records, it had 250,000 miles, nearly triple the number advertised.

    With no idea he was about to be arrested, the seller showed off the Honda. Then police moved in.

    The seller's name was Murad Alrawashdeh. Authorities say he's been part of a major odometer rollback ring. He denied rolling back the odometer, saying "This is when I bought it, how many miles on it."

    But this wasn't the first time Alrawashdeh was arrested for rolling back odometers; he was convicted just months ago of felony theft. He pleaded not guilty to the new charges, including odometer tampering.

    Investigators say it's easier than ever for crooks to do it. The reason: Most newer cars have digital displays, simple to hack with little devices widely available online. "You plug it into the car, select the vehicle make and model, and then change the odometer to whatever you want," Wilson explained.

    A video posted online shows a car going from over 200,000 miles to 37,000 miles with just a click of the device. "It overrides the entire computer," Wilson said.

    So how do you avoid becoming a victim? Before you buy, always ask for the car's service records. Also, have a certified mechanic inspect the car; they can even check the internal computer to see if the odometer has been tampered with.

    And finally, there's a way to check the odometer history for free, on Carfax. All you need is the car's Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), the 17-digit code generally printed at the bottom corner of your vehicle’s dash on the driver's side. (Carfax also has helpful information on finding your VIN.)

    opps sorry i posted in the wrong forum....lol

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    dcanes41 Posts: 6

    7:51PM

    Wow! Thanks for recommending Penn Fed CC.. Those rates are awesome!

    I just made up that number as a example.. Most area's are between 500 below and as high s 1500 below.

    i think your target price is good thou.. for p.a. i think you could get at worst case close to 1k below..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    Thanks, Brian. I'm in GA - do you think $1000 below is reasonable here?

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    @dcanes41 said:
    Wow! Thanks for recommending Penn Fed CC.. Those rates are awesome!

    You might also want to check out AAA - they have some very good rates as well and depending on the length of your loan, could be better then Pen Fed. Here are the rates in my region:
    http://autoclubsouth.aaa.com/Financial/finance_auto_rates.aspx

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    jwatl

    1k below may be do-able at months end.. Deals in your state are not like Md and VA. Get as many deralerships involved as far as your willing to travel..This will help you get a good price.. bait one dealer against the next,make them match or beat for your business.. play the game.. buy at the very end of the month with hopes a few dealers may still be looking for end of month sales incentives...

    East Coast Honda by me in S.C.................... May deal at the end of the month it might be worth a shot if your willing to make the trip up.. Contact the Int/ mgr on the 30th if you do..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • trentoncheetrentonchee Member Posts: 3

    Hello,

    I requested a quote for a 2014 Black Accord Sedan LX CVT from Hendrick Honda in El Cerrito. They give me an invoice at 19,766. For the out the door price they gave me an offer of 22709.93 with the protection package VS the Livermore dealer ship which gave me out an OTD for 22300 without the protection package. I was wondering if it is a good deal?

  • carkhojcarkhoj Member Posts: 13
    edited January 2014

    In northern NJ, I received the following quote for 2014 Accord EX-L sedan.
    Selling price (including destination & flex cash): $23770 + $790 = $24560.
    The invoice price for this car is $26650.
    The document fee is $300.
    OTD price: $26900.
    I think this is very good deal (about $1500 below invoice before doc fee or about $1200 below invoice after doc fee). The offer is valid till end of this month.
    What do you folks think about this deal?

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    Brian - another question: once I come to an agreement on price with a dealer, what kind of proof should I get from to make sure the offer is real and they won't try to mess with me once I'm in the dealership or sell the car before I get there? Is a buyer's order with a VIN # good enough, or do I need something else? Also, should I put down some type of refundable deposit?

    Thanks again.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    Our area here in NY/NJ the market price for Accords is 500 to 1k below at best... According to your numbers you have found a nice deal. This dealership needs/wants to sell this month.. Dealer has flex cash..

    If your buying within driven distance of this dealership there is no reason not to buy from them. Try to get your local dealership to match first. This dealership probably will want you to take whats in there inventory for that price.

    This dealer will set the price this month in our area. Make these numbers work for you..

    Good job....................Post dealership upon Request>>>>>>

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    jwatl

    Brian - another question: once I come to an agreement on price with a dealer, what kind of proof should I get from to make sure the offer is real and they won't try to mess with me once I'm in the dealership or sell the car before I get there? Is a buyer's order with a VIN # good enough, or do I need something else? Also, should I put down some type of refundable deposit?

    Jwatl

    If you are speaking with the int/ mgr you want a email conformation with price, or if they will fax the Buyers order/ bill of sale.. holding sale w/ credit card deposit.. No wriiten proof No deal... You know have a legal document to prove your case if they try to pull a fast one.. Usually if the dealer is very close and they wont do a online fax buy i will make sure i am dealing with only a manager and not a floor sales guy. If your buying out of state or making a long drive to a dealership he/she must provide wriiten proof of your deal. If any dealer wont do this that means they were full of bs..

    Again

    If dealership wants a deposit You want a emailed or faxed reciept................ CYA

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • nanunemnanunem Member Posts: 8

    Hi Guys,
    Quick question, I have got a nearby city deal which is a lot less than the nearby deals and now the local dealerships are asking me to forward the quote I have. What all should I be passing them, should i be including the dealer's name, VIN, etc.?
    Thanks.

    Brian - Thanks for your help, I have moved from buying a 2013 used and now looking to close a great deal this week.

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    Great question, nanunem - I've been wondering the same thing. I haven't sent anything because I was concerned they might call up the other dealer and try to collude or something like that.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    nan

    Tell all local dealers that if they beat your other price offer you will buy that moment. or they will lose your business ... your local dealer is only making this deal cause he was forced to by the other dealer.

    Dont reward your local dealer by taking less. get on the phone and spaek only to the internet manager.. This is how you close the deal.. Make them local dealer commit that moment.. or walk...

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    Just because you show another dealer a offer means nothing. Your job as a good negotiator is to make your local dealerships think you are giving them one last shot at your business or you buy elsewhere. If that dealer lets you go that means he had no intension of selling you for that price..

    dealer wants to see if your lying by asking about a offer..

    If any dealer say's i cant match that price your next question is ..... Before i hang up what is your bottom line price closest to this offer. Make him / her commit

    if its 300 or more you might say throw in Splash guards, wheel locks , truck liner , all season mats, etc....... To make the difference up.. give me 5 free oil changes. try to get dealer to close the price gap ........................ or walk..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Put 15 local dealerships on the spot in these last days.. See who blinks first.. Once you have made up your mind to give a out of state or dealer miles away your business you have the leverage and upper hand in negotiations..

    Good luck

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • carkhojcarkhoj Member Posts: 13

    @carkhoj said:
    In northern NJ, I received the following quote for 2014 Accord EX-L sedan.
    Selling price (including destination & flex cash): $23770 + $790 = $24560.
    The invoice price for this car is $26650.
    The document fee is $300.
    OTD price: $26900.
    I think this is very good deal (about $1500 below invoice before doc fee or about $1200 below invoice after doc fee). The offer is valid till end of this month.
    What do you folks think about this deal?

    Sadly, today when I went to the dealer to close the deal, I was told that they ran out of flex cash. Unbelievable!! Jan 23, I received quote with flex cash and Jan 27 no flex cash. I'm really disappointed!!

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    it will be really hard to stomach paying more after getting a quote like that. without the flex cash I can't see a dealer offering that price. I'm looking at buying an EX-L for 600 under invoice with .09% finance in Nor Cal - I'll have to drive two hours from the bay area to get that , but that's OK. Dealers in the Bay Area didn't want to drop below invoice or didn't have the car I want. If it weren't for this forum I would of assumed invoice was the best I could do without flex cash.
    It's been 13 years since I've bought a new car so I'm pretty excited to have the upgrade.

  • erikkurerikkur Member Posts: 4

    last night I sent out about 8 requests for a quote. Waiting to hear back today. I am in Maine (southern), so I sent some here, and in New Hampshire and Mass. Now we will wait and see!

  • armenharmenh Member Posts: 6
    edited January 2014

    This forum has been golden for me, through my months of searching for a 2013/2014 Accord Sedan EX CVT. At first we really were in no rush to buying a car but over the last month it became more urgent and I was disappointed many times over for not getting the price I wanted. Dealing with some dealerships has been an absolute nightmare on how some were not willing to budge by even a hundred bucks to make a deal happen. Some would run out of flex as the month ends came near and I would miss out on reduced pricing for the car. Anyway, I finally pulled the trigger on January 25th, found a dealer that had flex and was willing to deal at 1,000 below invoice at this time.

    Sale Price including destination: $23,300 - wheel locks included
    Doc/EVR $109 - I told the dealer I know this should be 80 bucks but I will go ahead with paying an additional 29 bucks for it.
    Tax - 9% Los Angeles County tax $2,106.81
    Registration $252 (roughly)
    Flex Cash 500
    College Grad 500
    60 month financing at 1.9%

    Had the paperwork and financing completed in about an hours time. Fastest I have been in and out of a dealership, no pressure by the finance person to upsell.

    I didn't get the best deal I could but I was fed up with calling dealerships, I think I got a fair deal and price.

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    armenh, congrats on your purchase. when I read stories of the great deals people make it does help me figure out where I should be negotiating price wise, but when I see the frustration it can cause when some obsess over getting the "best" price, what ever that is, I know that there's only so much I can enjoy with the haggle process. Some dealers really know how to take advantage of someone when they realize the buyer is just fully baked and can't take it anymore. That's why they like to have you invest time in their cubicle while they go visit the manager. I used to do car advertising and I would sit with the sales manager while the sales people would pop in and out of the office - the conversations were often just to kill time "baking" the customer. One guy had a microphone planted so he could hear the conversation of a couple as they contemplated the deal. That was years ago, and I can't imagine it's changed all that much.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    saratogasteve,

    Smart buyers start there negotiation via email then closing the deal with direct calls to int/ managers buying as close to the end of the month as possible...To Drive from one dealer to the next is a waste of your time. For reason you stated in above post... Thats why you cut out that middle man. Your floor salesman is the guy when you start to look for your model and options you seek info maybe a test drive. Once you have your car model and options you negotiate like stated for quickest and best results.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    That's right...waste the time of a salesperson who works on straight commission trying to support his family. Then once you decide to buy, go around him in your zeal to somehow secure a "better deal"!

    Man, I don't miss this business!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    Now I feel bad that you Reworded our senerio . Yes there are hard working men and woman in the business that deserve to earn our business. Why lie and play games............. I dont get it.. Then cry foul when we turn the tables on them. I'm sure plenty of sales people like yourself who were in the business that were straight shooters , honest decent folks do deserve that chance. You just dont get many of those stories in here.. If the above mentioned sales guy changed is sales tactic's he might of got the sale and his family may have profited.. Instead salesman went the lets play games route. Success in sales comes with Knowing the vehicles your selling, know your prices, know accessories, know rebates and incentives, learn the art of selling. This is your job as a salesman......... Be honest and dont waste people's time. If you cant match or beat a price tell the customer this is my bottom line to buy today.. or i will match for the sale today.

    A hard working salesman knows his craft and knows how to sell. All the con artist sales people get what they deserve and there are many of them .

    I recently sat down in a dealership with my brother. I had to pick him up in NJ so this dealer was 5 mins from his house. The vehicle we wanted was on another dealerships lot 30 miles away.

    After confirming with the Int/ mgr about having several cars/ color,model and the one we wanted i figured it was worth a shot by my brothers dealership... I just got off the phone with them the night before closing to confirm vehicle we wanted to buy..Both manager and the salesguy were in on the lying act to lure me into this dealership.

    These guys were sharp at this place. . This dealership definitely takes advantage of all uneducated buyers for sure.. Not only did they not have 1 vehicle or model we wanted . They tried everything under the sun to sell us everything we didn't want. plus pushing a demo car w 12k.

    If this was the only dealership i was going to that day I now wasted a 45 min drive each way and 40 mins mostly biting my tongue with disgust listening to these morons before leaving... i was ready to leave the min dealer told me our vehicle was not there. but my brother is not me so we stayed and he learned excatly what i was talking about. I made sure i gave the big boss manager a earful before i left his place.

    Where or who teaches these flunkies how to sell cars....

    This is the dishonesty people go thru every day with dealerships.

    Thank god for other folks and myself who help teach others how to avoid this.......... BS

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • zigster38zigster38 Member Posts: 117

    LOL well if the "salesman" would work harder in knowing his product line, instead of his hard work consisting of obfuscating the truth for 55 minutes until you wear out, then that would be work well-directed. :D Seriously, even if you sit down and in the first minute hit them with a deal you **know **they have already said yes too some other time, they spend an hour trying to tell you why it can't be done.

    That's why Brian's method works to get you withing 98% of your target price without all the time wasting. I do find that the last 1 or 2% only occurs when you standing in the dealership with your checkbook, or have turned to leave and they come running out to your car :).

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    before the internet, sales people had a distinct advantage and oh did they take advantage of the average unarmed consumer. If dealers want to remove the gamesmanship then stop with the ridiculous game of MSRP. The car dealerships still hang on to the old school formula of hagling because I'm guessing they still think they can motivate sales people to close the deal ala 'Glen Gary, Glen Ross'.
    with that said - last night I picked up my new 2014 EX-L, $600 below invoice with 0.09% financing for 60 months. It was a hassle free quote from the internet sales person at Lodi Honda (Clyde). I took a two hour train ride to pick up the car since no one local wanted to wheel and deal. The only irritation I had was the attempted sale of the extended warranty and lo-jack stuff in the finance office - I had to say 'no' 3 or 4 times to get the guy to quit asking.

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    Bran 125 - I agree with your approach - always have.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244

    Steve,

    Thanks for posting.. Enjoy your new Accord. I really enjoyed that movie.. Baldwin and Arkin were great..

    You always need to be closing........... was the line.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • carkhojcarkhoj Member Posts: 13

    Finally pulled the trigger and bought 2014 Accord EX-L Sedan for $27,000 OTD from AutoSport in NJ.
    Base price (with destination): 25,060,
    Doc Fee: 300,
    DMV: 296,
    NJ Tax: 1754,
    Total OTD: ~27,000 (after $500 flex cash)

    My car is in transit and will be available for pick up sometime next week. I have been reading this forum regularly for last 2 months or so and was able to get good idea of NJ pricing. My friend also bought 2014 Accord EX-L Sedan with NAVI from same place at OTD price of $28700 (after $500 flex cash).
    We didn't get any extra discount for closing the deal on 2 cars. Same dealer previously said that they have run out of flex cash.
    Thank you all for your great suggestion/help.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    edited January 2014

    @saratogasteve said:
    before the internet, sales people had a distinct advantage and oh did they take advantage of the

    average unarmed consumer. If dealers want to remove the gamesmanship then stop with the ridiculous game of MSRP. The car dealerships still hang on to the old school formula of hagling because I'm guessing they still think they can motivate sales people to close the deal ala 'Glen Gary, Glen Ross'.

    with that said - last night I picked up my new 2014 EX-L, $600 below invoice with 0.09% financing for 60 months. It was a hassle free quote from the internet sales person at Lodi Honda (Clyde). I took a two hour train ride to pick up the car since no one local wanted to wheel and deal. The only irritation I had was the attempted sale of the extended warranty and lo-jack stuff in the finance office - I had to say 'no' 3 or 4 times to get the guy to quit asking.

    Gamesmanship works both ways and you would probably be shocked as I was at the tricks and lies some shoppers will pull. I spent a lifetime in retail management and thought I had seen it all but NOTHING could have prepared me.

    You call paying MSRP a "ridiculous game"? Speaking just about Hondas if a shopper pays MSRP for a Honda Fit there is about a 500.00 spread. On a Civic it's about 1500.00. On that Civic, that's about an 8% markup.

    Yes, there are a LOT of slimy stores and salespeople out there and a lot of the good people have left the business. Had it not been for a large group of repeat and referral customers I would have never stuck around as long as I did.

  • tbj0801tbj0801 Member Posts: 11

    Got a new 2014 Accord EX-L last night with wheel locks and no other accessories. Paid $24,410 (this figure included destination and doc fee, but not TTL). Financed it all @ 0.9 percent thru American Honda. Dealership was Pohanka in Maryland. A very clean experience with no hassle-- very amicable and professional people. Appreciate Brian's advice as well as that of others in this forum. Very happy new Accord owner! Beautiful car.

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    Isell - what do you think is a good price for a Honda Accord? as a sales person - how do you come up with a price when your mother or family member wants to buy a car? Would you tell them MSRP is suggested and they should just follow the "suggestion" of the manufacturer?

    • I remember when dealers would write dealer mark up on the sticker - some still do.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited January 2014

    This is the game Car companies set up .. We are playing by there rules.. MSRP and Dealers Invoice. Dealer hold backs, and incentive money to each dealership. Supply and demand and knowing when you or the dealership has the leverage.. Thats how you make a good to great deal.

    Like good salesmen there are educated buyers and good negotiators..

    A good salesmen and a educated buyer or negotiator like myself makes for a smooth trans action in this car business. The dealerships that are smart sell to me........ The other dealerships that are in denial get passed by like the 515 express train home..

    So what is a good price for a honda accord to be sold??. Do we really know the true dealers cost????

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jake1728jake1728 Member Posts: 5

    @tbj0801 said:
    Got a new 2014 Accord EX-L last night with wheel locks and no other accessories. Paid $24,410 (this figure included destination and doc fee, but not TTL)...Dealership was Pohanka in Maryland.

    Awesome deal! Hope you enjoy the new car!

    Out of curiosity, did you trade anything in? If you just straight bought a car, you should be very happy with the price as it is 2,540 below invoice (2,040 before flex) which is pretty hard to come by!

  • saratogastevesaratogasteve Member Posts: 186

    $2,540 below invoice? how could that be? if that's for real - it sets the bar for the lowest price I've seen in this thread. wow! Sometimes I think the pricing that Honda has set for it's Accord from the base LX on up to the Touring model - makes no sense at all. I opted for the EX-L because I wanted leather - but the mark up for the items on the EX-L vs. the base LX is quite a bit considering you're buying 95% the same car. with that said, I don't think you could get $2,500 under invoice on the base LX - there's just not enough margin in that car.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    @saratogasteve said:
    Isell - what do you think is a good price for a Honda Accord? as a sales person - how do you

    come up with a price when your mother or family member wants to buy a car? Would you tell them MSRP is suggested and they should just follow the "suggestion" of the manufacturer?

    • I remember when dealers would write dealer mark up on the sticker - some still do.

    We had a "family and friends" pricing policy and that varied by model, availability etc. usually we would charge around 200-600 dollars over invoice and include any incentives if there were any.

    Some people here think they have all of the answers and that dealers have "secret" profits and that making any kind of a profit is evil I do believe.

    Bottom line, it always boils down to whatever the MARKET is. That is what determines pricing. If it's a dime a dozen car than a skinny deal can be made. If it's some high demand car that is in very short supply, do dealer in their right mind will cheap sell it.

    It's no different in Real Estate and many other things.

  • radar007radar007 Member Posts: 24
    edited February 2014

    My question is why can I get a quote for a '14 Accord LX for roughly $1700 difference for the exact same car in 2 different states? Why do some dealers give deep discounts and others will not. Do they not pay the same for the car? Do higher volume dealers get better kickback from the manufacturer? I want to buy local but that is a pretty big price difference.

  • jwatljwatl Member Posts: 8

    Well, after a ton of research and negotiating with ~10 dealers, I finally pulled the trigger today and bought my 2014 Accord EX-L V6 (no Nav). I think I got a steal at $27,302 before TTL (includes all dealer fees and $500 flex cash). $29,296 OTD. From what I can tell, that's $1,241 below invoice.

    Brian - thank you for all your help.

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    jwatl

    Good job negotiating. Excellent price for your area..

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • tbj0801tbj0801 Member Posts: 11

    jake1728 and saratogasteve:
    No trade-in. Just a straight purchase, all negotiated before I even walked into dealership. Used all the techniques described by Brain and others in this thread.
    The Northern VA dealers (Landmark, etc) and Annapolis were a waste of my time as they just gave me the usual run-around; so I quickly eliminated them. Criswell Honda did call me as I was walking into dealership to sign the final papers and it appeared they were going to verbally agree to same deal. In hindsight, perhaps I could have even gotten slightly better deal (or a few other accessories thrown in) by prolonging the negotiation (and getting greedy) by playing off Criswell, etc. but I needed to seal the deal that night due to my own time constraints. My family and I are incredibly happy!

  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    @radar007 said: My question is why can I get a quote for a '14 Accord LX for roughly $1700 difference for the exact same car in 2 different states? Why do some dealers give deep discounts and others will not. Do they not pay the same for the car? Do higher volume dealers get better kickback from the manufacturer? I want to buy local but that is a pretty big price difference.

    Supply and demand and your area are all factors in pricing. If you live in truck country a Accord may sell cheaper. Snow belt area's folks may want that 4x4 instead of a car.

    If the price is worth a out of state purchase and pick up we can help you in this forum to make your transition go smoothly. Bus, train, rental car one way very inexpensive. A savings of 500 or more may be worth your time. Everybody has a different take on buying.

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jake1728jake1728 Member Posts: 5

    @tbj0801 said:
    jake1728 and saratogasteve:
    No trade-in. Just a straight purchase, all negotiated before I even walked into dealership. Used all the techniques described by Brain and others in this thread.

    You did really well, then! I'm impressed; I should have you negotiate my next car. ;) I doubt you could get much more even if you played them off.

    Enjoy the new Accord!

  • radar007radar007 Member Posts: 24
    Brian125,
    That's the puzzling thing I live near the snow belt in ohio and lots of trucks around here but got a much better price in VA. Might have to make the trip when the weather breaks. Local dealers won't budge much. Thanks for all your insight into buying cars.
  • brian125brian125 Member Posts: 5,244
    edited February 2014

    radar

    I would try to get contact info from poster... tjb0801 on dealer contact info.. If his numbers are true he made one hell of a deal at 2500 below invoice price on a 2014. If you could get anywhere close to that number you will save 1300 dollars to make a I day trip to pick up your new Accord.. Id say thats a nice savings for one days work effort.. Here is his last post.

    tbj0801 Posts: 9

    February 2

    jake1728 and saratogasteve: No trade-in. Just a straight purchase, all negotiated before I even walked into dealership. Used all the techniques described by Brain and others in this thread.
    The Northern VA dealers (Landmark, etc) and Annapolis were a waste of my time as they just gave me the usual run-around; so I quickly eliminated them. Criswell Honda did call me as I was walking into dealership to sign the final papers and it appeared they were going to verbally agree to same deal. In hindsight, perhaps I could have even gotten slightly better deal (or a few other accessories thrown in) by prolonging the negotiation (and getting greedy) by playing off Criswell, etc. but I needed to seal the deal that night due to my own time constraints. My family and I are incredibly happy

    23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE

  • jake1728jake1728 Member Posts: 5

    @brian125

    Do you think 2500 below after flex (or even say 2k below after flex) is doable anymore since it's not month end? Something tells me that tbj's deal is going to be hard to replicate at least until the end of this month and maybe till the end of March.

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