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Comments
I'd like to add some sensors (glass,impact, etc.) and a flashing LED and was just wondering if this is possible with the one already installed or do I have to put another one in?
BTW, I've had my dealer check some other Yukon's and XL's on his lot and none of the steering wheels lock in place when you take the key out! I can't believe that GM would take something so simple out when they've had it for decades! I asked him to call his Technical Advisor at GM to find out if this is a change or just a early model year screw up. I have a friend who bought a 2001 Sierra Z71 at the same time and his wheel doesn't lock either.
Thanks for the those of you who have already checked on the steering wheel for me.
Campo57
Head to this page: http://www.gmc.com/yukon/agility/yukon_agility.html
then go to Ride & Handling and then choose Premium Smooth Ride and it will show you how it works. Basically, while you're driving, the rear shocks sort of ratchet up in the first 2 miles to level the vehicle.
Hope that helps.
Campo57
Also, I have heard some good things about the BFG AT and KO tires. Does anyone have experience with these?
The BFG All-Terrains are an excellent tire also, but you will find the ride much more harsh. It has a much stiffer sidewall which is great for crashing through the boonies, maybe not so great for everyday street driving, depends on your preference. I have a set of these installed on my 4Runner and am very happy with them. The lastest version is the KO, which has a slightly different tread pattern and bead to protect the rim. Could have been my brain tricking my proprioceptive system, but when I installed the KOs, they seemed to have a softer ride than my older version BFG AT TAs. I believe the KOs are the newest version of the ATs, anything else is an old tire.
My 2001 XL was built this week. It is polo green. I was wondering if the gold you are talking about is an aftermarket purchase and if you know where I could see a picture of it? This does sound very attractive.
Thanks
The gold two-tone was factory done by GM. While they don't sell two toned 2001 Yukons and Suburbans in the states, they do overseas.
I have taken a number of pictures of the green and gold Yukon XL and I'm suppossed to get the pictures back tomorrow. I will choose the best one or two of them, have them scanned, send them to Clifford Martin, and ask him to post them on his website. He may also be able to post one here on this forum. He has done this before. He knows how to do it. I haven't got a clue.
By the way, it really makes an already beautiful truck look even better to add the gold to the dark green. I am definitely having it done to my truck by a first rate custom shop when I pick it up next month.
I went to 265 as I did on my 95 before.
I think that you DONT need to correct the speedo for 2 reasons.
On the 95 GM was using the same parts # for the computer module and speed sensor for both 245 and 265.
more importantly all Manufactures calibrations for their speedo is on the low side for liabilities purpose.
As an example,all manufactured parts have built-in tolerance parameters or + or - in %.
So for a speedo, if you were driving an indicated 65 miles on your speedo and you get a ticket for going 68 miles as indicated by the police radar, who do you think will be liable?
The manufacturer of course.
Now if your speedo indicate 65 but you are really going 62, the manufacturer is safe and you can't even sue him because you didn't suffer any damages.
The only correct speedo are the ones labeled " Certified Speedometer" that you will find on police cars.
You can verify that easily by marking exactly 1 mile on a road/freeway and timing how long it take your truck/car to cover this mile going at an speedo indicated 60 miles/h.
If it is more than 60 seconds, your speedo is on the low side, 60 seconds and your speedo is right on and less than 60 seconds and your speedo is on the high side.
Luc.
Funny how I fought with the service department to replace the mounts as late as Septmeber. I even gave them part number for the new mounts and they said GM had no technical adivsories for fixing the "drum sound". They finally said a technical advisory was issued and they could go ahead and replace the mounts.
Thanks,
normal angler
Got everything I wanted but the two-tone white/pewter exterior color.
Now the real countdown begins.
Q: Can I change the way my automatic door lock feature works, and how can I do it?
A: There are four possible settings for the automatic door lock feature that may be selected.
The four settings are:
1. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, Drivers door only unlocks on key removal.
2. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, All doors unlock on key removal.
3. All doors lock @ 15 MPH, No doors unlock on key removal.
4. No doors automatically lock or unlock (feature off).
The factory setting for 2001 Model Year vehicles is #4 — No doors automatically lock or unlock(feature off).
To change the setting to a different mode you must do the following:
1) Beginning with the ignition switch OFF, pull back on the turn signal/multifunction lever all the way toward you and hold it while performing the next step.
(2) Turn your key to ON and OFF twice. Then, with the key in OFF, release the turn signal/multifunction lever. Once you do this, you will hear the lock switch lock and unlock.
(3) You are now ready to program the automatic door locks. Select one of the four modes listed above and follow the instructions below. You will have ten seconds to begin programming. If you exceed the ten seconds, you will hear the locks lock and then unlock indicating you have left the programming mode. If this happens, repeat the procedure beginning with step one. You can exit the programming mode at any time by turning the ignition to ON.
To select setting #1 — All doors lock, only driver unlocks — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side once.
To select setting #2 — All doors lock, all doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side twice.
To select setting #3 — All doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel once and then the unlock side three times.
To select setting #4 — No doors lock, no doors unlock — Press the lock side of the power switch on the drivers door panel twice.
That should do it!
Campo57
We just picked up an LT there last month. The price was $98 over invoice. Since they deal primarly in Chevy trucks they had no problem getting allocation on the vehicle we wanted. Their website also lists the vehicles they have in stock. I can't say enough about how helpful Scott was in making sure everything went smoothly.
Their website is www.marchantchevy.com. Tell him Bob from Orlando sent you.
Thanks for the excellent programming instructions.
Jeff
I believe that you may be shocked at the number of reported tread separations on GM's "specially" designed Tombstones. On the plus side (if there is any), these separations don't appear to be causing the GM vehicles to flip over. That is probably why NHTSA hasn't forced a recall yet, which would undoubtedly put Firestone out of business at this point. But I don't want to be the first reported roll-over case.
In any case, I think this proves that your dealer is fibbing, and that GM could care less about our safety (but who really thought they did anyway).
2001 XL SLT.
It was purchased in MA, there are two dealers
I know of around here who have some of
these two tone cars. They were imported from
canada and are brand new (mine had 46 miles)
They do the conversions from kilometer/ to miles.
You would also be wise to check out cwmartin's site http://suv.s5.com/. He has a page that has an excellent inspection checklist to bring with you so you can check out the truck before you give the dealer any money. I highly recommend it.
Good Luck with your negotiations and the truck when you get it!
Campo57
They accepted my offer of $42000 (MSRP was $45.6K with dest charge) immediately, so I paid a little too much, but I'll take it. carsdirect.com wants around $400 more, so I beat that price.
The dealer was Garnet Chevrolet (soon to be called Princeton Chevrolet) in Lawrenceville (or Trenton, depending on who you ask), NJ. I dealt
with Brandon, the buypower manager.
Three days after I found the truck I was driving it. Very cool. I love it, and look forward to towing my race cars with it this summer!
-Dave
They accepted my offer of $42000 (MSRP was $45.6K with dest charge) immediately, so I paid a little too much, but I'll take it. carsdirect.com wants around $400 more, so I beat that price.
The dealer was Garnet Chevrolet (soon to be called Princeton Chevrolet) in Lawrenceville (or Trenton, depending on who you ask), NJ. I dealt
with Brandon, the buypower manager.
Three days after I found the truck I was driving it. Very cool. I love it, and look forward to towing my race cars with it this summer!
-Dave
Look at the big picture. Does your new car have Firestones, and you'd rather have new Michelins? Is there anything else you want? IOW, negotiate. Say to him something like,"OK, I'll pay this eventhough I think it's unreasonable, as long as you put 5 new michelins on it, at no extra charge."
That's the easy and fair way to do it. But, if he gets rude or "tough", politely tell him that the deal was mis-represented and that you're going to go home and think about it for a few days, maybe even talk to an attorney about getting your deposit back. Mean it, and then walk out after you say it. That ALWAYS gets their attention.
The one and only problem is that the third row rear seat is the natural tan color and the rest of the interior is pewter. When I pointed this out to the dealer they asked ME if it was supposed to be that way. I knew so much about this vehicle from these sites that I had been telling them about it. But I haven't heard anything about this seat thing. I can't imagine that it is supposed to be that way (the interior roof is also the light tan, which is the only reason I might even slightly think this is the way it's supposed to be). My guess is the assembly line screwed up. I'll hear from my dealer on Monday as to what GM says. I'll be expecting to get a new seat.
Thanks again for all the input.
This model came with the QIW On-Off raod tires (Firestone of course) and I have an easy option of having them swapped for the standard All-Season version.
Question: Is the ride any better with standad tires?
Does it ride noticeably better on Michelin LTX's?
Thanks,
Mike
There are several know problems and defects with the new body style Suburbans and Yukon XLs. None of them are really major or something that would make you regret buying the truck. To view a list of the problems, visit my web site at http://suv.s5.com and select the problem and defect page. (The web site is devoted to these trucks, so there may be other information there that you will find helpful.)
The biggest thing I foresee for you will be the change in vehicle size. You are going from short small cars to a big tall truck. This will take some getting used to. I went from a big American sedan (Pontiac Bonneville) to a Yukon and it has taken me time to get used to the size.
Clifford
-mike
1500 vs 2500 is a question of how much towing/load carrying you need. If you plan on towing a 7000lb trailer or want the vehicle to carry 6 adults and all their scuba gear, the 2500 may be for you. If it's for a large family and maybe a small boat then the 1500 should do. If the 1500 fits, and you are wary of American vehicles, you could also consider the new Toyota Sequoia. We seriously considered buying one, but in the end we had to go for the extra room and better towing capacity of the XL to fulfill our needs.
Thanks
Here are a few pics of my Garnet Red YXL (only waited 6 months to get this darn color...but it was worth it IMO!).
This is an aftermarket Moonroof - Hollandia TVS 44 that I had the dealer install (work not done by him, he farmed it out)
If anyone would like to see more, I can post the web address' here so I don't take up so much space and download time since we can no longer HIDE our picture messages (I guess that's progress...NOT).
Campo57
Do you have a closer pic of the sun roof and controls? Looks like you have front and rear climate control? Cost?
In the time I have had my 94 suburban, I have had three Bmw's, 540 and 2x 740's. The Suburban has been the most reliable of the bunch and thus have been reluctant to get rid of it. Plan to replace it this spring with a 2500 with the 6.0l (want the larger gas tank of the 2500) In seven years all I have done it put gas, oil and brakes on it. I have seen the horror stories from others, but when I travel out of town or the country I leave the suburban for the wife to drive. I know it will run without a question.