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I was just waking up when I heard this so some Information may not be accurate. But I DID hear them talking about how GM cars from I think 2004 up have been having issues with the engine cutting out while driving,, caused over 70 deaths, blah, blah, blah,, hopefully they figured out what the issue is and hopefully my car will be fixed. My anxiety has been so out of control having to drive this car on the highway for work everyday,, wondering when I am going to get killed. It happened again the other day, during a bad snow storm,, yup,, that was AWSOME,,, GM,, you suck!! Never again,,
I just checked and of course my Impala is not included in the recall,, unfair!!! GM,, you suck!! Going to trade y car,, never will I buy another GM product again,,,
Hello All,
If you have any questions regarding any open recalls on your vehicles, please feel free to send us an email to socialmedia@gm.com with your VIN included. We will be glad to look into this for you!
Kristen A.
GM Customer Care
I've already done that and it was useless. GM claims to not have had any complaints on this,,, useless!! I was told to call the national whatever it is to file a complaint,, did that and low and behold,, their system was down so they couldn't enter my complaint in,, sickening,,, just sickening. My lawyer is going to love this!!!
The worst winter in Chicago was also the worst winter with our 2004 Yukon Denali - after babying the beast for years, I have had it. The Check Engine light is on continually, the Reduced Power due to the Stability Control occurred Friday evening on the I94 with 4 kids in the car - almost gave me a heart attack. I read the posts from 06 and will bring to a reputable mechanic to check with Wiring Plugs on the Throttle Body, Front Abs Sensors. I was trying to get another 2 years out of the Yukon - but at this point, I will sell it for parts and buy a Ford. Between this and the Brake Lines snapping last summer - I am done. You would think GMC would be forthright on what people are reporting as "potential problems" and what they suggest as preventative measures that should be taken especially with late model vehicles. My truck wears with honor the badges of the places we have visited - ski trips, family vacations, road trips hauling the boat. This is leaving a nasty taste in my mouth and I am looking at other trucks instead of going back to the one I have enjoyed for so many years. 2 Potential Life threatening incidents in one year is a tough pill to swallow.
'09 Yukon XL Denalli I too had this exact same problem as so many have mentioned. At first the "On Star" lady put me on the line with a GM Tech. They sent a tow truck , once at the Dealer I got a loaner truck . On Star Tech told me Throdle Body Housing and wiring , Dealer said the same thing, but gave me the not covered runaround. I walked over to the Ser. Mng. told him I had the extended Warranty and I DO NOT need this type of run around . I was advised to take the Truck and would be called the next day ? Strange I thought ? But to his word he called said it would take a week for parts ect. and I have a 100 deductible. I can live with that , so I looked up what was going on in this site and was SHOCKED . I feel lucky as Hell I am going to file with the NHTSA but thanking my lucky stars it didn't happen on one of the super busy Hwy. here around ATL. Yes I got it back in 7 days and charged $100.00
GM has known for years about the problems with these engines, but unless you bought your car after the bailout then GM doesn't have to do anything. It is the owners loss. Even after the bailout GM will most likely never do anything about the issues for the people who were unfortunate enough to purchase a GM truck. GM will not stand behind its products only its profits....same with the dealers.
Sorry this site will not let meEdit my post. I want everyone to have the correct Info. this is a 2009 Youkon XL Denalli with 77,000mls when this problem happened.
@squekie, I edited your post to change the date.
So, I assume the dealer got the parts in for you by now. Any more issues?
I have to say that my 2002 Denali just did the same power lost thing you guys are talking about. You all helped me fix the problem free. I just got back from Charleston SC and now know why I had the problem. The roads are like a washboard and loosened my battery cable or cables. I tightened the cables, started the truck and has been fine for 2 days. Make sure you buy a side post battery wrench or you will never get the cables tight......Thanks again I isAL
I have a 07 yukon xl and this just happened to my wife(loss of power and service stabilitrack). I checked on you tube for a fix and got several, looks like it may be faulty wiring on the throttle body.
August 2006 in GMC
I purchased my 2006 Yukon last September 2005. I now have 24,000 miles on it.
I, too, am having the same problem with my Denali. Mine is a 2003 and as it's now January of 2015 this is obviously not a new vehicle; rather, it's paid for and the budget doesn't allow for a new vehicle at present. That said, I have to drive it! I also use it as delivery 'truck' for my flower shop (for the bigger things) so I have to make it work. I am wondering if, in these years past, you ever found a solution to this problem and what it was. I have had the fuel pump replaced, the mechanic did 'something' with the accelerator (I haven't a clue what!); a friend suggested that it was 'water in the fuel, some bad gas maybe' and added to my 1/2 tank of fuel SIX GALLONS of 'good' gas. Strangely, this seemed to 'fix' the problem for a while but, after a week of same fuel in the tank, it is back at doing the same thing again. I'm stressing out over this, not a lot of options in my court, so was curious what you, or anyone else, have done to fix this issue. Thanks in advance!
Flowerlady2
Just about 2 days ago my wife was pulling into an intersection and the engine shut off! The only way she made it through was with the momentum she had. Just think if she was on the freeway coming around a corner and the engine shut off.
I saw a recent post on this thread from a GM rep about asking for a VIN to check on a recall, This is a major safety issue so I am also going to put in a complaint with the NHTSA because I know I will get nothing useful back from the GM rep except or me to take it to a GM dealer. I know there has been talk for years, just go back in this thread and you'll find it, about a CLASS ACTION. If there is someone on here that know about one please add contact me, I really don't have confidence that GM will help, just keep pushing us off.
I will not buy another GM vehicle, especially if GM doesn't nothing with this, which I don't think they won't.
Lets see what they tell me.
I fasted and prayed about it after replacing my throttle position sensor and sensor harness, throttle body, battery, gas pedal position sensor, TB wiring harness again, cleaning the wheel speed sensors, testing the alternator, and cleaning and reconnecting the ground wires to the body. I put my hand down by my coolant temp sensor then the engine and cooling fans went haywire. Turns out there are two wires attached to it, one for power, and one that goes to.....guess what......TO THE THROTTLE BODY. I replaced the coolant temp sensor and pigtail and erased the trouble codes with my code scanner. PROBLEM SOLVED.
This may not work for everyone, because the other things I replaced our cleaned could be valid reasons for reduced engine power as well. I hope I help someone.
The local dealership here in Austin charged me for a bunch of other stuff that I didn't need so I haven't taken it there for this. But I had it in to a mechanic I trust on 4 separate occasions and after replacing a bunch of other sensors, he could find nothing wrong with it.
Have a Diablo tuner and have tried all tunes (likes the 93 extreme tune the best but hates the GM tunes)
Still have the problem. Will never buy another GM vehicle.
The only thing I haven't tried is physically replacing the ecm. Might have to try that next.
But can't afford a new car right now so if anyone has any other suggestions, aside from a gallon of gas and a road flare, let me know...
...............So that's the route i went but before i did that and when i cut the old throttle body wiring harness off and when i took the tape off the old crimps and the tape that was covering it was sticky wet sort of speak.That's the moisture i was talking about.Something also told me that this has been done before to this truck of mine but they didn't use nothing but regular electrical tape to seal the wires after they crimped them.Idecided i was gonna use silicone tape which adheres to itsef i applied that after the soldering of the wires.I'm sure there is other things to use at high temps. under the hood but that's my choice.Now the time consuming stage i was talking about is soldering maybe because i did it under the hood and i had to maneuver a bit while under there but it was worth it.I actually put a piece of board under the wires while i was soldering so none of the heated solder would fall down onto other parts.So after i was done soldering and let the solder dry onto the wires which did not take long i applied this other tape before the silicone tape.I don't know the name of it i had it for quite a while it actually popped up in my tool box but this kind of tape was black on top and white at the bottom the white part looked liked threads almost.I don't think it matters because the silicone tape itself would work.So applied the tapes i actually applied a good bit around each wire at first and then i applied the tape around the whole group of wires together.The silicone tape stretches like rubber so you can pull it tight to get a good seal.I test drove my truck i been driving it for a full week now and not one engine reduced power message at all.My truck has actually been riding like it was when i first purchased it.No hesitation no rough idle i been on a two hour trip.There and back and was still riding around in the upper 90 degree temps outside.That was the problem guys I hope this helps all of you or at least some.I apologize for the book i wrote lol!One more thing please for some that don't know please DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY before you try this if you are doing it yourself and don't know much about under the car.I have pics of my old throttle body wiring harness connector and a pics of the new one that's already connected if you scroll down to my name reduced solved.Take care
2007 Avalanche: This happened to me on a snowy highway in WV. Lost power behind tractor trailors on highway narrowed to one land and minimal shoulder. Sat in 20degree weather with wife and kid waiting on AAA instead of skiing! Luckily truck came to life and made it to a mechanic who said the TPS code popped. We had just accidentally hit the onstar button and he said that could have done it as it can override the ecm. So we press on. Alls well until a few days ago AGAIN on the highway and barely made it to shoulder. Talk about white kncking and scared. This time it started right back up. Have engine light, stabilitrak, ABS warnings. Dealer says TPS replacement and wheel speed sensor need replacing. Since my 2007 with 90k mi is not a 2008, GM says go pound sand regarding the bullletin. apparently there is also a TAC wiring bulletin regarding 2003-2006 Avalanches. I guess 2007 is the superior truck. NOT! I have no trust that after I do these repairs it will be fixed I did the TAC wiggle test with no results. Ground wire on strong and new battery.
First event was in snow and second was in rain. Moisture must be interferring somewhere. Any harnesses down low to check out?
GM case 8-2742390060
Thanks, Pete
I am just trying to cover my bases as this dealer/service manager has flat out hosed me before with blatant lies in which GM stood up and covered some of the service.
I was told by GM to get a diagnosis before they could rule on the service bulletin. I did and they ruled. Said didnt apply to a 2007 because it is a different vehicle made with different parts, etc. Well guess what? The TPS and the harness are the exact same part # used in the 2008 model that is covered by the bulletin. THis is a known major defect. How many posts here?
I want to clear this issue and make sure the stabilitrak warning is still there before paying them $500 for the TPS and $400 for the speed sensor.
The AC delco throttle body is $150 and the after marketTPS harness is $20. There are 4 bolts to the throttle body after getting the air intake out of the way. THey want $900 just for the part! I am capable and will do myself, but I think in my case the code is thrown in error as it has happened only twice in two weeks, once in snow and once in rain. Both on highway where moisture can get thrown around. Both times super sketchy dangerous!
I see posts where dealers have replaced EVERYTHING and people are still having the same issue. I will not give them my hard earned money without investigation and I have read every page of this thread.
I just think it is funny that there are bulletiins on 2003-2006 and 2008-2011 avalanches and not 2007.
By the way, did they change the design after 2011 to address this issue? They should retrofit if they did.
So mine only does it in rain/snow so moisture. Not in just cold yet.
I wonder of your throttle body is dirty and the butterfly hangs up only when cold? Did you clean it when you changed the sensor? Good luck and let me know if anyone has a used Titan cheap!
My 2007 is not covered despite having THE SAME PART # as that in the service bulletin.
But my wife's 2001 CR-V has only take oil, a timing belt, and a window regulator in 16 years and still going strong!
As has been stated before in topics similar to this one, there's no one cause for this problem, as this is an integrated system of sensors and modules and switches. You can't even be sure if the PCM is getting correct or false data (probably false, but...).
One of the GM techs I know reported recently that they changed the warranty times for diagnostics yet again. Now they only get .3 IF the diagnostic effort leads to a repair. If they investigate a reported issue that it is intermittent and cannot be confirmed, they get nothing for the time that they have to invest.
Before I started posting no one here ever considered just what policies like that did to the techs. (not sure enough do yet) But not paying them to take to time to research and be disciplined in their approach trains them to rush and take as quick of a shot as they possibly can even if it ends up being a half blind leap. The worst of that could be found in both the techs getting it right as well as wrong because when they got it right someone always tried to then make that the standard, while they were ready to punish that same effort when it missed the mark.
Now imagine someone else calling the shots and deciding what to replace and what not to. If the tech can't prove that the convertor is bad, they don't get to replace it under a warranty. Now for the rest of the story. You paid for the convertor as if it was installed with the previous repair, the tech didn't get paid to remove the transmission and replace it. Had he/she been allowed to the first time, then they only would have lost about three hours pay when it turned into warranty. Now they lost close to seven hours, or almost a whole day's pay because of having to go back in. Dealer flat rate games try and find ways to pay the techs enough on the simplest work that it can make up or subsidize losses like this. It appears from the above that they had said to replace the transfer case which would have offset the hours but would have been totally unethical since it wasn't what was wrong with your car. This is the kind of nonsense that starts happening because of pressure to produce numbers from upper management and owners.