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Also, is it worth buying new vs. used? I can buy a 2002 Yukon SLT XL with 55k miles for about $20k, or a new 2004 for about $37k, both drive out.
If you go to www.gm.com it looks like they are calling October 'Truck-tober' month.
The regional incentive pages are being updated. I would check there a little later today.
http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?n=178&sid=178&a- rticle=7703
Some people are saying these are '06s, others say '07s. Not sure.
tidester, host
I went to a third party shop who removed rear drive shaft but problem is still there.
Now vehicle is developing a rough ride at about 55mph which develpos into a shudder/ vibration at higher speeds.
Any suggestion? Anhy fix available?
I have an opportunity to buy a really sharp used 2002 Yukon XL at what I think based on my research is a fantastic price (SLT trim, quad captain chairs, roof, etc..). Mileage is 80K, price is 19,000. It looks like a new truck.
I'm a little leary of it because of the miles but it's the best later model I've looked at for the price. How many miles can I expect to get out of one of these, realistically? I put about 10K a year on a car.
Thanks.
Your tires were probably balanced correctly at the factory when you bought the vehicle. 18k miles is enough wear on the tires to make them come out of balance, hence the vibration.
Of course there are other reasons for vibration, but you must first positively eliminate wheel balance and bad tires. Even the best tires will cause vibration if not balanced properly. My coworker had Michelin LTX M/S 31X 10.5 R15 tires (considered to be about the best SUV tires available) on his SUV and the local Dodge dealer balanced them wrong over and over again to the point that the man could not take it anymore. Finally I told him to take them to our AFB shop where they checked the wheels and each was out by about 3/4 ounce (21 grams) on each side! This type of imbalance would make even the largest SUV ride poorly. After the wheels were rebalanced properly, his SUV was as smooth as it could be.
One advice: When you have your wheels rebalanced and lead weights put on, ask them to remove the wheel from the balancer, remount it and prove to you that the it is balanced properly. The display should show zeros for both sides. Chances are that this will not happen. Of course, they will not be very willing to do this, as it takes a few more seconds of their precious time.
A tip of a few dollars usually makes this request fly without problems.....
So they (dealer) balanced the tires and did an alignment. This seems to have improved the ride. The clunk was from a steering shaft problem and part had to be special ordered.
So far Suburban has been pretty well defect free. Hope it continues.
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Should be no problem going with a better deal if available.
Most (all?) manufacturers have some sort of break in period. My Subaru said to keep it under 4000RPM for the first 1000. Most say not to drive at constant highway speed from more than an hour or so. I imagine towing 4000lbs would be fairly hard on a new drive train.
Anybody out there with a suburban/Yukon/Tahoe with a humming rear axle? Any heavy use towers out there?
All comments and suggestions appreciated.
There is a reason for a break in period. The engine needs to seat properly throughout it's operating range. What type of terrain will you be towing over? Lots of steep hills/mountains I'd forget about it. Pretty flat make sure you vary your speeds if you do decide to tow. Personally I don't think I'd tow unless the engine was broken in.
I have been pounding both purchasing dealer and a second dealer and chev. for months. I have not gotten any results with them.
I also have filed a case with BBB last week and I am waiting to hear from them.
From what other people tell me BBB is a joke!
I hope I am wrong.
If it helps your case please cite my problem with them.
Let me know what happens with your suburban.
Fully disgusted with them!
You will have a much better chance of getting your issues resolved if you follow the procedures outlined in chapter 7 of your owner's manual; going through the chain of command at Chevrolet.
My fist new car and it has been a very frustrating experience. Every time my truck goes in to get something fixed it comes back with another problem. In 1 year I've have the brakes done, the fuel pump changed, the steering shaft changed the battery died for no reason, new battery. Hell, it's like extreme makeover for my Surburban. I call chevy and they say i do not qualify for their buy back program. So I ask what "is" required for the buy back, and I get "sorry I can't tell you that information" Thank you chevy........I'll always remember my first new car.....unfortunately!
I want to know if anyone can tell me what recourses i may have with this situation.....?
Had your brakes done? Was there a malfunction with them or did you wear those out that quickly?
Of course, it would be nice to have zero problems with a new vehicle, but that doesn't always happen. The warranty covers the repairs and assuming those are the only deficiencies you have encountered, what would you expect Chevy to do for you?
The beginning of Chapter 7 of your owner's manual outlines procedures for you to follow (customer satisfaction).
It is raining this morning and I wanted to de-fog the windshield. It appears that you can't have the defrost mode on at the same time as the AC. I did a quick search in this topic and found an old post (#546) that mentioned the same problem. So, is there any work-around this? Thanks! - Bob
I believe that the air conditioner compressor is supposed to run automatically when you switch to the defog or defrost mode, even though you may not get an indication that it is on.
I have a similarly equipped (4WD, autoride, autotrac) Suburban as you. With only a couple of hundred miles on it, I dropped it 2" and put on 305/50-20 tires and wheels. Of course, after the drop, it was in bad need of alignment, which I had done at a local shop. 8K miles and one rotation later, nice even (minimal) wear on those wide tires.
Here's the link:
Steve, Host
Chevy Suburban
Steve, Host
Any new owners out there?
Steve, Host
Most like suspect is in the steering column. Wondering if the ignition switch is bad or a bad ground.
Also check the battery cables for tightness and cleanliness.
BTW - We're at 43K miles and no problems to report. It's been a great vehicle, that I have no complaints about at all.
There is a reason Indy cars use alcohol as a fuel. The GM flexfuel engine does a great job tapping into these advantages. Even though ethanol (E85) has a significantly lower engergy value than gasoline, it has an octane rating of 105 and requies a lower air fuel ratio to burn well. The net result is significantly more power and identical fuel economy. It's a great fuel.
The engine is self adjusting to the fuel you have in the tank.
My experience with E85 in a Tahoe is that the fuel economy produced by either fuel is identical. I get 12 in the city and 17 on open road with either fuel.