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Comments
We really love it but decided we don't like the second row captain's chairs and want to install a second row bench seat.
Our dealer's parts department will not sell us a bench seat. I am told that it is a snap to mechanically to install the bench seats.
Does anyone know how I can get a new or like new second row bench seat pewter (medium grey) in color for an 05 Yukon XL?
Obviously we would have two captain's chairs in prime condition available after a swap.
Anyone out their that has the second row bench but wishes they had purchased the captain's seats?
Thanks
Thanks
:mad:
j:)
Is there an answer to twatts question below?
"I'm hearing a "whirring" noise above my head, seemingly coming from the little 1-inch plastic circle, directly above the driver's seat in my '01 Suburban LT with auto climate control.
I thought I read here that the little plastic disk was some sort of temperature sensor, but when I mentioned the whirring noise to my technician, he said the little plastic disk was the ON-star speaker and he didn't see how it could make a whirring noise.
I know I've also read about the "whirring" noise coming from above the driver's seat on this forum before ... but can't find it now.
Help! "
I've been driving a beautiful 99 Express Low-top Conversion for six years and it's always driven/ridden like the TRUCK that it is. Rented an 03 or 04 Suburban in Vegas two years ago for the Grand Canyon/Zion drive and could not believe how sweet that monster truck rode! Now maybe I can have one. Thanks for your input.
As far as getting a nav unit--depends on whether you prefer aftermarket or OEM; if you want the complete factory OEM look, you can build it piece-meal by buying the necessary parts off Ebay. OTOH--going with aftermarket typically is a less-expensive option, so you could go that route if that is more preferable.
Thanks in advance for any assitance...
Chris
Now it's true we have the (relatively wimpy) 5.3 liter, so maybe that is the difference...? :confuse:
Thank you.
wcoast.
The round plastic escutcheon grill, about the size of a half dollar and located just above and to the left of the driver, is the interior ambient temperature sensor. The sensor is used in conjunction with the automatic HVAC (CJ2). A small fan pulls air over the sensor. This sensor may make a buzz or rattle sound, and this noise may be intermittent.
Although it may not be possible to eliminate all of the noise from the sensor, if the sensor is installed incorrectly, it may bind and cause the fan to make a buzz noise. While removing the sensor, check for binding. Reinstall the sensor and re-test. If the noise is still present, the sensor itself may be noisy and require replacement.
From GM TECHLINK JULY
Document ID# 1538353
04 Full Size Trucks and Utilities with VIN G , N , T, V and U Engines May Have a High Altitude, High Ambient Temperature Stall - kw L18 LM7 LQ4 LQ9 LR4 crank DTC fuel hard Hesitate idle #PIP3022A - (Jul 19, 2004)
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some 2004 Full Size Trucks and Utilities with VIN G, N, T, V and U engines that were built prior to May 1st, 2004, may stall while driving. Typically, this will occur when the altitude exceeds approximently 5,000 feet above sea level with an ambient temperature of 80 degrees F or greater. The vehicle may set DTCs P0171 and P0174 and exhibit a crank no start, hard start, lack of power or rough running concern until the vehicle cools down.
Recommendation/Instructions:
This PI does not apply to vehicles with the L59 (Vin Z) 5.3L engine. Monitor the fuel pressure during the concern. If this PI applies, the fuel pressure will be lower than specification during the concern. If the fuel pressure is low, perform the SI fuel system diagnosis during the concern. If the SI diagnostics isolate a fuel pump module concern, there is an updated fuel pump module available to address this concern. Specific part numbers may be assigned to these updated fuel pump modules in the future. For right now, if the current part number from the parts catalog has a date code of 0834 or newer, it is the updated fuel pump module and should be installed. It may be necessary to open a SPAC case to obtain one of these fuel pump modules.
Note: The Fuel Pump Module Date Code will be on top of the fuel pump module, just below the bar code and production part number. The date code will be a 4 digit number with the first 3 digits being the day of the year and the 4th digit being the year. So a date code of 0834 would translate to the 83rd day of 2004.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models:
(04 Chevrolet Silverado C1, C2, C3, K1, K2 and K3 ) and (04 Chevrolet Suburban C1, C2, C3, K1, K2 and K3) and (04 Chevrolet Tahoe C1 and K1) and (04 Chevrolet Avalanche C1, C2, K1 and K2) and (04 GMC Yukon C1, C2, C3, K1, K2 and K3 ) and (04 GMC Sierra C1, C2, C3, K1, K2 and K3) and ( 04 Cadillac EXT C6 and K6) and ( 04 Cadillac Escalade C6 and K6) and ( 04 Hummer H2)
I was recently assigned a company car (free gas, insurance, maintenance, and personal miles), so we were able to trade in both our old vehicles (Mitsubishi Outlander and Nissan Quest) and get the gigantic SUV my wife has always wanted. And a lower payment to boot. Gas will be more, but insurance will be less. Overall we'll be saving quite a bit.
Started out looking at Suburbans. For some reason, Yukon XL is a little less expensive when comparably equipped. However, Tahoe is quite a bit less than regular Yukon comparably equipped. Go figure. Must be some marketing thing. At any rate, I'll take the lower price, and in fact I think the Yukons are better looking with the single piece grill, and more chrome trim, less rubber trim, as well as being a little less common.
We ended up with a 2005 SLT, black with tan leather. I was okay with the standard features and cloth seats - in fact I thought the front bench would be cool, but SLT with leather and front buckets is required to get the second row captain chairs. We had the 2nd row buckets on our minivan and wouldn't go back to a bench seat, having to flip and fold seats to get a kid into the back row. I was hesitant about the black exterior, but I could not find any others in the Dallas area with the features I wanted, i.e. the power pedals. I am 6'3", my wife is 5'2", adjustability is a good thing. Memory would have been nice, as well as the power lumbar and XM radio, but I did not want to upgrade to the next trim level up from here (1SD package, I think). Plus if I get my own XM radio with an FM modulator, I can use it in the XL or the company car (on which I am expected to put 10,000 business miles per year). Power pedals are only $120, but there were no others out there with that stand-alone option. Actually there was a red one out there, but it had the gray interior which I don't care for. Another thing about the black paint that I have come to appreciate is that it disguises those cheap looking black plastic D-pillar applique's. So I think it will be worth the extra effort to keep it clean. And it looks like a Secret Service vehicle... Anyway, ours also came with the 17" wheels, white-letter tires, CD changer, tinted front windows, and trailer package - all things that I didn't "need", but they are nice, and current rebates made it affordable.
No DVD or video games, I expect my boys to play road trip games and take naps and read books like I did when I was a kid. If I'm wrong, we could easily add aftermarket...
150 miles on the meter and we are having a ball. Taking it easy during the break in period, but loving the great visibility and surprisingly decent handling. Already got a chrome exhaust tip, just for looks. I'm not going to "pimp my ride", but a couple of things here and there will be fun. I'll be looking for a receiver hitch bike rack, and a K&N filter soon.
Of course as one member posted a while back, having a big honkin' SUV like this makes you want more toys. I am certainly no Eagle Scout, but I have this urge for camping and fishing gear, kayaks, boats, etc.
I share your attitude about kids participating in the trip rather than essentially remaining in a traveling version of the family room. That does require the adults to actually interact with their kids, which I realize (in this age of deflected-responsibility) is a major strain for some.
But, should you have the overwhelming need to anesthetize your children with video, they have an under-$300, two-screen, hangs-on-the-back-of-the-front-seats DVD player at Sam's Club that should do the trick (and allow storing the demon device away when familial interaction is desired).
Enjoy!
Thanks
Niffler
tidester, host
I guess after owning Jeeps and motorcycles I'm used to an aftermarket which can provide any variation on any component you can imagine. It's not like I'm an accessory junkie. I don't want my truck looking like Ladder No. 1, I just like making improvements where the manufacturer cut corners. The less noticeable and more funcitonal the better. :shades:
Of course after not seeing my truck (or wife, son or dog) for six months even with the plastic steps and ribbed vents it will be sheer eye candy. It will be nice to be home where idiots aren't launching bottle rockets at our boats. The 122mm rocket of choice that landed about 100 yards from my stateroom today has a range of a couple miles, so it's impossible to be moored anywhere in the middle east or Horn of Africa and safely out of range. Sorry I know this has nothing to do with GMC products. Thinking about ways to waste money on an already expensive vehicle takes my mind off things.
You're right, there is not a lot of Internet action, that I have seen, for Yukon XL owners. I did come across one very active site for Avalanche owners. They have a lot of stuff on performance mods, and obviously they're the same engines under the hood. Do a google search for that if you're interested.
Thanks for serving our country, by the way! I hope you return to your family safely. I was out of town this week on business and was missing my family pretty bad - I can't imagine 6 months at a time.
I have a 2002 Tahoe and need to replace the oxygen sensor, anyways, is this hard and could you tell me how to do it. Or even give me a website of some sort. I tried to look for a thread but nothing applied.
Thanks,
Kim
1: K&N FIPK, rev.1 (I think). It's the one with the polished aluminum tube, instead of the black poly' one. It definitely adds some grunt to the lower-middle RPM range. Also gives a more throaty sound at moderate throttle, but just roars (but not annoyingly, IMNSHO) at WOT. By itself, the truck feels more responsive under part-throttle at slower speeds.
2: Hypertech Power Programmer III. Not exactly the perfect match for the Denali, as most of the "tuning" options are geared towards more mechanically modified vehicles (who wants to put 33" tires and new custom axles with non-stock ratios!?). I use it mainly for the 87 Octane engine tuning and the trans shift improvement. $400 retail, but I exchanged the one I had for my '01 Silverado for a total of $200 + shipping. Still a little overpriced, methinks, but I wanted to do *something* with that old PP3 unit.
3: Touch-screen Nav from the '05+ models. This is something I was able to do, despite everything told to me by everyone at all the Chevy/GMC dealers I visited. It's simple, really. The factory Bose system sounds better than average for a factory system, so all it needs is the navi head and GPS sensor (no, it doesn't use the same one from the OnStar system). Got the kit from JP Customs at this site.
4: I've got an iPod that I wanted to use with the Navigation system, but there's no line-in or cassette deck, so my only options were to hack into the head-unit or use an FM solution. I didn't want to try re-wiring a $2k head on a $50k truck, so I opted for a less invasive solution. I went with an in-line FM modulator (not to be confused with the 'over-the-air' FM transmitters - those sound like crap). It's not as nice as a real line-in, but it gets the job done. With the windows down, sunroof open, at speed, with the volume up, it's hard to tell it's not really a line-in! Downside? Finding a switched 12v source to power the thing. Ultimately, I had to tap into the ignition wiring, which is complete hack-job. Plus, I don't get R.A.P.
5: I also had to tap into that switched ignition wire for the Bel RX75 installable radar detector. The hardest part of the install was finding a suitable hole to go from the engine compartment to the cab. I found a great spot between the engine and the steering column where it's only 1 layer of sheet-steel that can be drilled through pretty quickly. Remember to use grommets or something else to seal the two areas off again. I used a combo of a grommet and hot glue.
6: Here's the only "Me Too!" item - Rims. I didn't go gawdy like 22"+. I went with a set of 17" AR Atlas wheels with the factory tires (Goodyear Wrangler HP), and the factory rims now have Bridgestone Deuler Revos. Since both sets of rims are 17", I can easily swap tires to different rims should I ever find the need to do so. Downside? Aftermarket rims didn't get the TPM sensor installed. D'Oh! The only consequences I see are that I need to keep clearing the "Check Pressure Monitor" message from the message center, and I need to keep a close eye on my tire pressures (no more work than normal, really). I just won't be able to leave the monitoring up to the truck if I start losing pressure in one or more of the aftermarket wheels.
7: LED "bulbs" went in for all the turn-signals and brake lights. Really, they're just panels of LEDs that mount to the same base as the factory bulbs. They're *bright*, but only in a narrow field. In other words, it's easier to see from directly behind the truck, but more difficult if you're off to the side. I've found that the LED lights cut through fog and road-spray better than the regular bulbs, so I'm leaving them in. If you go this route on the turn signals, you'll need to make sure you get a "load balancer" - a resistor that tricks the signal switch into thinking you don't have a blown bulb (LEDs pull less current than an incandecent bulb, which looks like a blown bulb to the switch). I'll probably go for the APC LED panels that completely replace the rear housings, but I'm waiting to see reviews of them before I spend the $300 or so on them.
What else do I have planned?
I'd love to have a light bar on the front, but it's nearly impossible to find anyone that makes one to fit the Denali. This is mainly due to the shape of the front bumper and valence. I'm also waiting until I *really* need it. Right now, I don't really need off-road-type lighting. I do plan on moving out west somewhere to ranch-ish property where extra lighting is a *need*, not just handy.
I'd also like to have the line-in for my iPod and/or laptop. I checked out JP Customs again while I was writing this, and it seems they might have an option for that (I have all inputs occupied except the overhead DVD, which I'm going to have done with the rest of the audio system in, like, 8 or 10 years).
How about anyone else?
I'd like to figure something out to use my iPod as well. I read some good reviews of the line-in setup sold by Crutchfield, but when I checked it out it wasn't compatible with the Bose system.
A nav system is something I would absolutely love to have, but I couldn't see spending $4,000 for the dealer option just because I'm a tech junkie who's too lazy to read a map. I could almost buy a boat for that price. Pioneer makes a pretty nice setup which receives instant traffic updates from XM Radio. I think I could install that one myself for a little over $2,000. It also has the rear-view camera capability. I'll probably just end up buying a Tom Thumb GPS receiver for my laptop and using that. Much more economical. In the meantime my Rand McNally Road Atlas and Magellan handheld will have to suffice.
LED tail lights are definitely in my YXL's future. I put them on my 5x8 cargo trailer and am definitely satisfied. They're much brighter and turn on instantly, as opposed to incandescent bulbs, which lag a few milliseconds. That could mean the difference from someone stopping inches from your bumper or inches from your rear seat.
I also thought about a more portable dash-top model from, say, Garmin or Magellan. It wasn't worth it for a number of reasons. First, the screens are too small. Second, setting the destination is more difficult. Third, having a box on the dash just doesn't look classy for $50k vehicle. I'd put something like this in my wife's Saturn, but not the Denali.
The "factory" Nav head can be had for about $2200 delivered, which will include everything you'll need to get it installed (even step-by-step instructions). Check out JP Customs. They carry brand-new "virgin" units directly from Delphi, so you won't have to get them cleared of any previous vehicle's VIN (if you purchased a unit from eBay, for example). I was able to get mine installed in about 6 hours. If you've taken your dash apart before and know how everything comes apart, it should take about 4 hours. Of course, I took some extra time to get the rest of the center console apart so I could install the FM Modulator and the radar detector, which accounts for the extra 2 hours.
Comparing it to the Pioneer unit you mentioned (Avic N1 or N2), the factory setup won't get the real-time traffic updates. But you'll wind up spending closer to $3k-$4k if you decide to go this route. The first issue is that the factory XM reciever will be useless to an aftermarket head, so you'll need to purchase a unit that will work with it - probably the XM TrafficNav unit to go with the Pioneer so you'll get those traffic updates. Second, getting an aftermarket head to work with the factory Bose amp/wiring is difficult at best, and the results usually wind up leaving you wanting more. If you're looking for equal/better results than the factory setup, you'll wind up replacing the speakers, wiring, and amp with aftermarket units. When I priced it out, I figured I'd need to replace the entire setup and get the OnStar/Chime module to retain just those features. The total I came up with was well over $4k (all components were figured to be new retail units). The factory Nav head was a comparative bargain. Eventually, I'll be doing a full aftermarket setup, but not until the resale value for the truck drops significantly - figuring about 6-8 years. I'm not saying you shouldn't do this if it's what you really want to do. I'm just letting you know that my research shows you'll wind up replacing more than you probably think needs to be.
Anyway - I just had a thought about the LED lights for the rear. Does anyone know if the Escalade housings will fit on a Yukon/Suburban? IIRC, the Escalade has LED panels for tail-lights, and would probably work better off-axis than the LED "bulbs" I'm using now. I know that the Yukon, YXL, Danali, Tahoe, and Suburban all share the same tail-light housing, but I have no idea about the Escalade. What about any other panels/housings for LED? Anyone? Beuller?
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Share your vehicle reviews
1) Westers PCM tuning--now I can get my 6000-lb DXL to do low 7-second 0-60 and low 15-second quarter-miles.
2) Outlaw air intake; doesn't look as cool as the FIPK or Airaid offerings, but according to my GTech tool, it appears to do the job.
3) I also did the TNR upgrade...however--my route was simpler, as all I needed to do was swap out my existing INR for the appropriate TNR.
4) Swapped out the slave 6-CD changer for a Pioneer AVH-P6500DVD unit--motorized screen, plays MP3 discs and DVD movies. I also have the aux audio/video out running to a pair of...
5) ...Vizualogic 7" headrest monitors. These units will accept an external A/V source, plus play DVD movies via the DVD player built into each headrest.
6) 22" wheels and tires; gotta have some bling to my truck--LOL!
7) Baer Alumasport brake kit front and rear; even with the heavier 22" wheel/tires, the Alumasports are rated to stop my truck in a shorter distance than an all-stock brake setup w/ OEM wheels.
8) LED taillights in a smoked-lens housing--not a bulb-only swap; these are 3 columns of LEDs contained in the tail housing.
9) 4300K HID headlight retrofit kit; some may argue that the improvement--perceived or otherwise--from switching to such a retrofit kit may not be worth its cost...but I chose to do so because I got a great deal...and even after almost 1 1/2 years, the kit is still functional--IOW it hasn't gone bad already, unlike other cheap HID kits.
If you do decide to go with the APC LED panel, make sure that your cruise control still works. When I installed my LED tails, I found out that the CC no longer would activate; turns out that the LEDs don't put out enough resistance for the CC unit to pick up. Apparently the CC needs to see this resistance in order to know when to deactivate upon hitting the brake pedal; in any case, the LED tail manufacturer sent me a module which restored the resistance required by the CC.
The OnStar speaker is on the headliner to the right of the driver, by the overhead console. The thing on the left by your head is some kind of sensor for the automatic climate control. There is a small fan in there, I didn't really understand why, or what they did to resolve the noise. Good luck, let us know what you do about it.