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but 24 MHP seems pretty low. The deal went fairly easy and the car was priced at least a couple thousand less than others with comparable stats. I know it's tough to screw with the odometer but something bugs me about this car. Runs good, smells good and I love the vehicle. I suppose that if I didn't have the hour meter it would not have occurred to me. Any comments please.
It's logical that stop and go, slow driving, is tougher on the vehicle than all highway miles. But a 2004 with only 17,900 seems fairly low to me actually. I wouldn't worry about it. There's a risk you take with any used car, but the money savings probably more than outweighs it.
thanks in advance for any advice
I also have my own problem which I hope someone can help me with.. I own a 2004 Yukon XL Denali with the same color trim as described above. Now, on the ashtray cover and cupholder cover, silverish mat finish just started to peel off..I can actually wipe it away with a damp cloth. I was told that this is a common problem that is also evident in Hummers. It seems to me that this is a manufactuerers defect and there should be a recall ?? Does anyone have further information regarding this or know how to fix it ?
thanks !!
In my case, I did a lowering on my own by replacing the springs (2 jacks), and simply moved the sensor along the control rod (over the little bump), and was able to dial in the perfect level. I also rethreaded the rod onto the other side. You have to look at the sensor to understand. Basically, you're moving the mounting point on the rod away from the front of the vehicle, which has the same affect as shortening the rod, thus fooling the computer into allowing the lower ride.
McGaughy's kits have you bend the rod, Hotchkiss (mine) provides a shorter rod. The last resort is changing the shocks from stock because the computer will have a fit.
The cleanist kit I think is from Ground Force. It has both a rod replacement AND shock extenders, which keeps the normal travel on the shock the same as stock, while providing the drop.
Dave
my mirror always display a 0° F
First it gave a "small evap leak" code. Found and fixed that. Then it gave a "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 1) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 2)" code. I think that's right. Since my wife couldn't drive my truck so I could take hers to the shop again the shop provided the sensors and I put them in.
Yay, cleared the code, for 15 miles.
This time we got "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 2) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 2 Sen 2)". The mechanic said the sensors must be defective. I left the Bank 1 Sen 1 in place and replaced sensor 2 on both banks.
Cleared the code and the light stayed off for about 25 miles.
Now it shows "PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 1 Sen 1) and PO 141 O2 Sen Heater Circ Malfunc (Bank 2 Sen 2)"
We've used Denso sensors. Any ideas of causes?
The mechanic said he recently replaced a computer in an '01. that was $400 used or $900 new. Any cheaper fix?
Thanks for your help.
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance.
jt
jta320@comcast.net : :confuse:
1. Has anyone had an oil smell after driving the truck hard as in mod stop and go and highway traffic. Like when I am late picking up the kids.
2. Anyone willing to share experience with the cold air and/or exhaust kits would be helpful as I want to give this 5.3 some more low end and maybe help the gas milage. I know...I want my cake !
Where is the justice ? My first extended warranty and I find out that it terminated on the beginning of the 5th year, not the date of purchase.
My 03 YXL SLT plush package 4x4 has an occasional "humming" after going over mod speed bumps as I accelerate and I am wondering if rear end is indicating something. Bought used w/ 67k and although an extremely clean looking truck when I changed to the Gibson freeflow exhaust I was appalled at the condition of the underside of this truck. I did not suspect anything as it drove and stopped OK and the dealer assured me this was a truck they had sold and had just taken back in on trade..."has our pedigree"
When the wheels wre off I checked the brakes and barely got some new pads on before the rotors would have been chewed up. Now it stops like new. The parking brake shoe just disintegrated in my hand.Is it the weight and size of these trucks that make them use more rear brakes atypically than other vehicles?
So much for the vehicle having the dealer pedigree and passing their 127 point inspection. Why do they lie? The previous owner obviously lived on a farm in Georgia because its caked with mud. If intentional water ever was used I'd be surprised. I was just keeping my finger crossed and now the SIHTF.
1. Speedo now dead. Anybody had this happen
2. windows shuddder when you let them down on passenger side.
3. Factory CD player skips on everything you put in it(as I understand it these radios can't be replaced because they are coded to each vehicle[is this true? or can GM code another one].
4. Homelink won't set to garage door opener. WHo says buying some type of warranty isn't good so hopefully Premier One will take care of these things. I am used to taking care of my vehicles not just for my piece of mind but because of resale and these are machines. I guess it takes all kinds to make the world go round right. Any help appreciated
thanks
The entrance door must be opened manually......but once inside, the keyfob will actuate the Keyless Entry system (it'll unlock or lock the doors). When I park the Yukon, the Keyfob will lock the doors as I leave......but will fail to unlock the doors if I'm gone for more than a minute or two. In other words, the system fails if I don't use the Keyfob for a minute or two. So long as I actuate the Keyfob every 15-seconds, it'll keep on working. Anybody got ideas?
Does anyone know if I can get the factory radio to turn on an aftermarket amp. I want to add a subwoofer and have been told I can use a output control converter(line output converter) but what is going to turn on the amp. I have the Bose system so something must turn that amp om.
"Tech confirmed failure key fobs using recommendation doc 1861180 put system to sleep removed rcdlr reinstalled fuse retested all OK"
I took this info to my dealer and they repaired it--working fine now. One oddity--the service desk person said that they fixed the problem by replacing the remote keyfob--said there were a bad batch of keyfobs and mine was one of those. I don't think this is the case as my other original keyfob is now working whereas it wasn't before the repair. I think the fix is a software configuration thing on the car itself and has nothing to do with the keyfobs--there may be other problems with certain batches of keyfobs, but it's not the cause of this particular issue.
Good luck.
This past week, the 4WD Check light has illuminated.
Anyone out there with a similar scenario? thanks jt
Any advice???
I took it to the dealer, because when it's working properly (not reversing) the seat won't go all the way forward. I originally thought something might be stuck under the seat. The dealer said I need a "seat extender" and that costs $700.00 !!!
When the switches are in reverse-mode, the seat does go all the way forward.. .so I know that it can.
It's just I never know which way the seat will move, and how far it will go. It's annoying because when I turn the car off, the seat automatically moves back (for easy exiting), and then I lose any good settings I may have had.
Has anyone encountered this????
All advice welcome!!
1. Homelink not pairing(Could be my model of garage door opener).
2. Radio is on the blink intermittently but off more than on) Dealer said the radio was bad but I am wondering if its the amp because its all sources that won't deliver sound when it drops out. Display works, etc. but no sound.
3. DVD player now won't load
4. Power seat driver does the opposite of what direction I push it in. The driver memo and exit functions seems to work but I am wondering if this 700.00 seat extender is mechanical or electrical. If electrical could it have anything to do with other circuits. In my experience with GM vehicles they seem to tie in a lot of electronics/electricals i.e. "multifunction" switches. The problem is when they go screwy not one but all systems tied in get effected. These are great trucks but they hace issues that are annoying. Maybe why Consumer reports won't recommend even the new beautiful 2007/8
We also have problems with our DVD player (thought I always assumed it was due to the fact that we put it in aftermarket). Sometimes it won't power on or off and the DVD's are always freezing in it.
I do tend to think that the electrical problems are all somehow related..
I also had a very long conversation with the installer of the current entertainment system In response to my report of the DVD player being on the blink. "By the time one pays for a repair for $50.00 more; maybe a $100 with installation. a new player could be purchased. So I replaced the dying DVD player and head unit with the Alpine set up and used the Metra/Access GMOS-04 to retain all RAP features, chimes. etc.. Stereo is a lot chrisper(more voltage from the aftermarket model) running through the amp. Next step is add a subwoofer to the head unit. I now have to figure out adding the subwoofer
Of course, the salesmen are little or no help in answering these questions, and just "assure" me that it will do the trick, so I though I'd ask you all.
Thanks in advance.
Now for my questions
1.I sometimes get a spoiled smell from my climate control outlets. I plan on changing the cabin air filters and see if this helps but is there a HVAC problem going on..
2. My speedometer goes dead on my 03 YukXL/SLT package and Bose system. The symptoms are that it will register only 50mph and above or will just sit all the way to the right and register nothing. I have disconnected the battery and it rights itself but the repeated incidents of this make me think the brain is on t he way out or something. Anybody else dealt with this?
I just got this diagnosis. The shoe fits. Mine is an '04 GMC Sierra. only 26000 mi. but out of warranty. they found codes P0171 P0174 and P0300. misfiring on every cylinder in history. # 2 prominently. Help me to understand. My dealer didn't mention Doc id # 1538353. He did show me that there had been a bulletin and I found it via # PIP3022A. Recommendation .... "fuel pump" $ 710.00 P+L. I asked if he knew that it would fix the problem. He said "everything points to it". My responsibility !
Why aren't these things covered if they're problems known to GM?
any thoughts ?
Pete
In my case (oh oh, breakout the violin), the short version, with my EX 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser-TLC, I finally throw my keys back to my Toyota dealer and told them to just send me the check for what the TLC's worth (which in mind still is a POS; and YES I walked home that day). The longer version, you would think the TLC is bullet proof, but it leaks in more places than my kid's diaper (at the transfer case and the right-front CV-joint, I have seen that in MANY TLCs and LX-470s around the 2000 to 2003 model years as well)... After a few visits to my Toyota dealer about the leaks, According to the my local Toyota dealer as well as the Toyota of USA Customer/Technical support, "the Transfer Case oil leak is best to leave it until the leak gets worse" (What kind of a support response was that ?? - about several drops each night is not bad enough...??), and as for the CV-Joint grease leak out of its boot, the dealer excused it as normal, they won't even try to fix it (i.e. replace the clamp of something) unless the CV Joint is bad. One mechanic told me off record, that its just too much pain to fix them, and not worth the risk as they are quite difficult to service..), what a shock it was for me to hear that -Wow! Now, you tell me if you were me, would you think from that point that TLC is reliable, especially with the transfer case leak? Would you appreciate the response from Toyota USA? Do you think the support received from Toyota USA and my dealer were helpful and supportive towards solving these leak problems? If you were me, would you drive that TLC for a family vacation?
FYI, I have a 2007 Yukon Denali since new, so far, except for one computer Re-program recall, it has been 100% problem free. I guess there is always a bad apple in a group, regardless of which we picked just don't expect too much help from the manufacturers... unless all of your years of scheduled maintenance work have been done by your dealership, they may consider offering a couple of hundred dollars of discount on those major repairs.
Best wish to all !!
I am starting to hear a roaring sound from my SUV in park and in drive. It just happened when I turned the corner a mile ago. I believe it similar to your problem.
How much does it cost for this repair?